Tuesday, 10 May 2011

Devi Ever US Fuzz

There you go Aaron ;o)  Currently unverified of course.
Should also be a quick mod to make it into a Aenima, Torn's Peaker or Never Drive if anyone prefers.

61 comments:

  1. New to all of this, so forgive me if this is a dumb question.. how can I wire an LED in to this?

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  2. You'd need to take another wire from the 9V top row to the anode of the LED with something like a 2k2 resistor in series. Then take the cathode side of the LED through one of the switch poles (as per 3PDT true bypass wiring) and then to ground.

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  3. Is this exact like original schematic of us fuzz?
    I see here on devi ever site http://www.etsy.com/listing/71438057/tp-pcb-diy-kit-tp-ae-nd-us-dh-and-dn-but list of material and compare to your schema, and in yours is one more 100k and one more 22n
    Please let me know about it, because I really want to build this fuzz effect right.

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  4. I did this one as a request and it's based on this schematic which was posted on the DeviEver forum:

    http://www.deviever.com/forum/download/file.php?id=2080&mode=view

    which shows the part differences for the US, Aenima and Never Drive. You can see by the colour coding there that there are two 22nF (well 20nF) caps and two 100K resistors.

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  6. Hi there, this works well. Even without the 2222a's for a different sound I noticed. Thanks for the layouts mate.

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  7. By my experience, there must be cut between 100k and 22n at end of schema, then start to sound like GATED fuzz (which Us fuzz is) http://i55.tinypic.com/fohwgj.jpg

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  8. Yes, that's awesome. I thought I just had a ground problem because the fuzz worked but it wasn't very gated. Sounds great now. Thanks

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  9. Any clues about the mod for a Torn's Peaker?!

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  10. I would also be interested in any mods to turn this into Torn's Peaker (and/or Aenema since that is just a single resistor swap on a switch).

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  11. Hi Mark, Quite fancy this one as I have all the parts at hand. Can you explain Robo's comment about there being a cut between the 100k and 22n.. And if there is a cut, should it be just to the right of the 100k's bottom leg.

    Cheers mate.

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    1. Just omit the last 100K resistor that goes from the base of the last transistor to the 22n output cap (before the volume pot).

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    2. I tried this one a few days ago. It ended up in the bin.

      First I wired it to the diagram and it was VERY piercing and nasaly. So I took out the 100k as you suggested.. slightly better but I had a 'croaky' sound when turning the intensity so I cut where Robo suggested and it sounded awful....and now it's at the bottom of the bin.... not sure what happened as it's such a small/simple circuit.

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    3. I'm not entirely convinced about the layout mate. This is the schematic I did it from:

      http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j6/IvIark_2006/Layouts/Schematics/Deviae_tp_nd_us.gif

      and if you look is says that for the US Fuzz, the 1nF and final 100K resistor are removed. The problem with that is that following those instructions leaves an irrelevant 100K resistor still in the circuit that isn't connected to anything. I assumed that this 100K would be connected to the transistors collector, where the removed 100K resistor was connected, but it could be that it should be connected to the 9V supply, where the 1nF cap was connected. If you just leave it hanging and only connected at one side, then there is no point in including it because it isn't doing anything.

      I've been hoping to see some decent gut shots of the US Fuzz or get hold of one to check it out, but so far I haven't come across any additional info or a pedal to help clear it up.

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    4. Hmmm, I'll ask Devi if she has a schematic and see if she comes up with anything...but looking at the scheme you did it from, that from Devi... I'll tell her it didn't work and ask for gut shots :) (of the pedal of course)

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    5. All I got was a ''The schematic should be accurate'' so the mystery continues....

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    6. Just say to her that if the 1nF and 100K are removed, it isn't clear where the remaining 100K should connect. I can't see it just being left hanging because if that was the case, then it may as well be removed with the other 2 components.

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    7. Sent that..

      I found this? A guy called sStryker is asking the same thing.. You may understand this better than me.

      http://www.deviever.com/fx/forum/viewtopic.php?f=192&t=4240&start=135

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    8. OK she says the other 100K needs removing as well, so I've updated the layout above. So you're still not going to like it then because you've already tried it in this configuration and nothing else has changed.

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    9. I might try it again in the future.. maybe it there was a personal error in there too as mine sounded so far away from the demos... it is possible as today my purple plexi nearly went in the bin until I noticed I'd put the diode in the wrong way...

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    11. Also I found now that: why in your schema is two 22nf? when in devi ever store (here: http://www.etsy.com/listing/71438057/tp-pcb-diy-kit-tp-ae-nd-us-dh-and-dn-but ) is only one .02uf (as C7), but about C1 isn´t wrote anything?! maybe it is your second 22nf, I don´t know. thanks for understand

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    12. Here's the schematic Mark did this layout from (and which is amended by Devi herself):
      http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j6/IvIark_2006/Layouts/Schematics/Deviae_tp_nd_us.gif

      Plus she's published that same schem on her site: http://www.deviever.com/fx/diy-schematics/

      As you can see, there are two 20nF caps, one at the input, mixing with 1nF and second as output cap. I guess Mark changed 20n to 22n, because 22 is standard value and 20 is not - and that affects the sound so little.. :)

      Why that other cap isn't on the etsy kit listing.. Don't really know. It could be some change as earlier revision, as the revisions listed on Devi's site start from february 2012. http://www.deviever.com/fx/us/

      But i do know that the layout is good, as i built my 666 monster from it... :)
      +m

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  12. The conversation above and the schematic got me thinking... Could this layout be transfomed into multi-devi-monster with a couple of switches?! (Of course it could!!!)

    One two pole On/Off/On to replace 220K with 10K/100K/220K, Two three poled On/On for 2N2222(A)s (would probably use TO-18 2N2222), one two pole On/On for 0.1uF and 0.01uF caps, and lastly, maybe a 3 pole On/On to turn on or off those 0.001uF cap and 2x100K resistors...

    Then i would have four different Devi designs in one box and all switchable. Plus all the bastard children of the "wrong" switching.

    Hmmm.. And i though i was past my peak of enthusiasm :) Just hope i have enough switches in stock. And i do! Only one slightly negative aspect to this is that those cheapo/crappo switched are awful to solder... Without breaking them.

    Yes. It would have two pots and five switches. I think i'm going to do it.

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    1. Damn. Didn't have everything.. Ordered missing stuff though :)

      And i think i'm going to take this even one step further and box it with Disaster/Krackle... :)
      +m

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    2. What a monster that will be! Can you not fit a Hyperion in there?! awesome pedal that is ;o)

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    3. Thought about that too.. Without it, it would still be 6 Devi designs in one box. Have both Hyperions ready, and i love them as they are :)

      Two footswitches (wired so, that each switch is individual, and both on means that they are parallel), 5 levers for AE/TP/US/ND, 1 lever for Crackle/Disaster. And four pots. I think it's already tight enough for 1590BB.

      Think I'm going to call it: (We Love You) Devi 666

      Heh.. WIth Hyperion and Hyperion 2 on board it would be Devi 888...
      +m

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    4. Cool.. You'll have to post a pic.. would like to see it all done :)

      Maybe Mark might do a layout for it? wink wink.......

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    5. Hmm. Just thought about the resistor switch. I guess it's best to solder it like this:
      Lugs 1 and 4 - 184K (actually 183,55K with 220K equals to 100K)
      Lugs 2 and 5 - from 9V rail to 220K to first 2N2222's base
      Lugs 3 and 5 - 10,5K (actually 10,47K with 220K equal to 10K)

      Now i need to figure out what resistors in series will give those 183,55K and 10,47K. Well. 10,47K is easy, just 10K + 470R... 183,55K is going to need some thinking though...
      +m

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    6. it seems to me like a smart guy like your self could do a us/anemia/torn peaker with two switches. One for the resistors an another before the 10n. One side that goes to the 10N and back to the base of q4 an the other to the TP/An section with the 100n 100k resitsors ect and back to Q4 Base.

      Does that sound right? Any interest in drawing it up?

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  13. http://mirosol.kapsi.fi/varasto/boxes/666.JPG

    This one is pretty evil... It's a wire jungle in there, so i'm not going to take a gut shot. It really works, and i can get anything from 8bit crushed to thin lo-fi to massive dark fuzz. Added switchable in/out caps to Disaster/Krackle, because 6 switches weren't enough. Plus all six circuits work right..
    +m

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    1. Haha! that's insane! Talk about death by fuzz!... excellent job. I might have a go as experience grows :0)

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    2. It wasn't that special..

      If we don't take that Disaster/Krackle in count (Which is just wired as two independent circuits in one box, when both on, first goes through second one), the Aenima/Torn's Peaker/US/Never Drive is pretty easy to make switchable.

      For Never Drive, we'll just need to turn those 2N2222's around. So one 3 pole on/on and one 2 pole on/on will suffice, since other 2N2222 has only two leads connected. I just used wire instead of sockets on the board. Then soldered two transistors per switch. Like this: http://mirosol.kapsi.fi/varasto/boxes_other/ae_switches.png

      That's how you will have US/Aenima. And now, flipping just another switch at a time gives out beautiful bastard children... (Or just really noisy fuzz.. which ever one prefers to call it :))

      Switching between others and US needed one 3 three pole on/on switch. Not so sure if i did it according to unwritten rules, but i did it like this (and it's working right :) ):

      1nF cap between lugs 1 and 2. 100K between lugs 1 and 4. Another 100K between lugs 1 and 7.
      Lug 2 to 9V rail (and other lead of that 1n cap), lug 5 to last hole of second row in the layout. Lug 8 to last hole of the fourth row.
      Lugs 3, 6 and 9 are not connected.

      Didn't connect that 10nF cap at all. Replaced it with two wires and soldered them to lugs 2 and 5 of one 2 pole on/on switch. Then i soldered 10nF cap between lugs 1 and 4. And then 100nF cap between lugs 3 and 6.

      That resistor switch i covered earlier....

      Go ahead Vince! It wasn't that hard. Plus the "wrong" settings give out a lot of noises, crushes and octaves... Kinda like DBA designs but noisier :)
      +m

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    3. Would it be possible to get a layout of Mirosol's 2 knob-6 switch monster?

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    4. I'm sorry: 4 knob-8 switch monster

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  14. I'll answer Shannon's question here, because i'm getting confused myself between US and Hyperion:

    Shannon says: "So run a wire from Row 1, Column 3 to Lug 2 of the DPDT switch, run a wire from Lug 5 back to the board at Row 7 Column 3. Then solder 1 resistor across the top set of lugs for the Aenima and another across the bottom set for the US Fuzz?"

    My answer: Exactly like that.

    Or if you want, you could use my 3-way calculations and use three position two pole switch and solder the wires like above - put 220K resistor to the same lugs with wires. Then 180K between upper lugs and 10K between lower lugs.. :)
    +m

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  15. I just built an "Aenima Fuzz" from this, I had to modify the layout a little bit. I'll etch the enclosure tomorrow and box it all up then test.

    If it works out nicely which it has so far I'll add a link to the layout I made based on this one. It could possibly have an error, but we'll see tommorow (:

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    3. Excellent, nice job Felix (Andrew :o)

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    4. Ha why the :o face ? No problem, just like to help and challenge myself. It was a fun and it helped me understand working with veroboard a little bit more. Here's my build of it....

      http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r518/shorty65mustang/aenimanight039_zps7297d553.jpg

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    5. Sorry I keep deleting my posts but here is the same layout for the Aenima. I just swapped the oscillation points, because this way works and sounds better in my opinion!

      http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r518/shorty65mustang/AenimaVeroboardLayout_zps578694c5.png

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    6. It was just my clown face smilie :o)
      Thanks for the pic

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    7. AENIMA, guys, i see 2n2222 instead 2n2222A. Any problem or difference on use the 2n2222A?

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    8. No problem using either, I have both type and they are similar. The 2N2222A are just TO92 versions of the metal can 2N2222.

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  17. Going to build this and I know it's marked as "verified" but after reading the comments not sure if the original layout works.Anyone confirm it does.

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    1. Well. It's tagged as verified. I haven't built it as is, but i've done extensive mods on it. So i must work.
      +m

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  18. Hey guys, first forum/blog at all! Part-time DIYer from Canada, I'm french. I love Devi Ever pedals (not her aftersale support though :/ ) and I've build a Torn's Peaker from Devi's pcb (Etsy store). Mine works well but I really miss some presence when I use it with my band. Any original Devi Ever pedals owner here? Also my texture/intensity knob works backward: full gain is totally at the left! Yes I interchanged pot lugs 1 and 3 but it doesn't work. Still waiting from a reply from her... Thanks everyone :)

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  19. About AENIMA: It´s difficult to find 20nf capacitor, reading schematic http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r518/shorty65mustang/AenimaVeroboardLayout_zps578694c5.png Question: can i use a 18nf instead? Find 18nf it two versions paper in oil and ceramic.

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    1. Yes 18 or 22 whichever you prefer. The 18n may be slightly brighter than the 22n

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  20. About AENIMA: i am using 22n, seems ok, but INTENSITY pot does not affect the sound. checked for bridges and nothing happens.I´ve used the 500Kb pot.

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  21. AENIMA Devi Ever: Does anyone tried to build this one http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r518/shorty65mustang/AenimaVeroboardLayout_zps578694c5.png ? Mine has low sustain and gain.. and the tone pot does nothing. If someone was succesfull, please tell me... your help are probably my last chance before unmount this one.

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  22. Hey guys, I'm having some issues. It sorta works, but I've got massively increased volume, heaps of noise (I'm testing w/ a battery so it can't be the supply), and a loud, compressor-like pop at the front of each note. Did I just build it badly? Thanks!

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    1. The circuit is pretty noisy by default, but you should still look for usual suspects - knife the strip gaps in case of tiny solder bridges and triple check all connections....
      +m

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    2. Thanks! I'll give it a go this evening.

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    3. Hey there mirosol, sorry for the massive delay! I tried building this 3 times total but just couldn't get it to work. I instead tried to build something of hers that's a bit simpler, and landed on the OK Fuzz which you guys have an awesome layout for as well. Socketing the inputs caps and playing around with it has turned it into a monster! Maybe I'll try this again someday, but for now my gated fuzz desire is sated. Thanks!

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    4. I breadboarded this circuit, and it works, however it's not nearly as fuzzy as the videos of it sound, and the gating effect is almost absent. Thoughts?

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  23. I've built it but I'm getting lot's of noise, when volume is at max the noise is somewhat reduced (grounding?), also when I move the texture I get some silence for a while. I already reviewed everything and I'm using a 9v battery (not a supply problem), any ideas on what might be wrong?

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  24. ^ It's a Devi Ever pedal they tend to be noisy

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