Sunday, 29 January 2017

Function F(x) Clusterfuzz

Original FSB thread and schematic available here.


31 comments:

  1. Verified! Ended up with 680pf for C1, 1N5817 for D4 and 1N4001 for D3. Used a 2P6T and adjusted the washer to get five nodes. Sounds awesome. Thanks Alex and Nocentelli.

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  2. 680pf for C1 - Brian Madbean confirmed this.... Didn't say if the rest was correct, though.

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  3. On the right side of the board, you have a resistor marked "CLR", which I'm guessing means "Current Limiting Resistor". What value did you use for this resistor?

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  4. I prefer a 4k7, but if you want horribly bright you can drop to 2k2 or 1k.

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    1. Arrgh! Now that I've actually LOOKED at the circuit, I see this is going to the LED. I'm used to soldering that resistor off-board, directly to the LED. My bad... and thanks for your quick reply!

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  5. Hello
    Je ne trouve pas de 1P5T switch .auriez vous un lien ou acheter et peut être une référence.Merci pour votre travail.

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  6. Vous pouvez acheter un 1P12T ou 2P6T et le limiter à seulement cinq positions (S'il vous plaît pardonner mon "google français")

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  7. Ah merci et encore excellent travail de votre part .

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  8. This comment has been removed by the author.

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  9. If I have to chose a basic two way clipping, I will like to change from, None/fet/led option, I will need to leave diodes from D1 to D4 right?

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  10. Actually I found the schematic on the first link, my question has been answered, by the way, another replacement for MPSA13? a low HFE NPN is ok?

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    Replies
    1. MPSA13 is a darlington transistor, which have very high HFE (min around 10 000). I would try a similar darlington transistor (maybe MPSA12, MPSA14, MPSA26, 2N5306, 2N5308, 2N6427, or others).

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    2. Or just two low hfe npn transistors in Darlington set :)

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  11. Hello! I'm still confused about the 1P5T switch:

    1) the 1P5T switch has 6 nodes - the signal IN node, and 5 OUTPUT nodes. The board shows connections out to "A, 2, 3, 4, and 5" - does "A" represent the IN node, and does that mean "1" is left unconnected? Or is there another point on the board leading to the switch that hasn't been marked?

    2) Gavin - you "used a 2P6T and adjusted the washer to get five nodes". Can you go in to more detail on how you did this?

    3) Where can you purchase this switch - are they all in the $8-$10 range?

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    1. 1) Pin 1 is not connected.
      2) The washer is inserted in one of the top holes to stop rotating at any point you waant. In this case you want it to rotate up to the 5th pin.
      3) They are much cheaper than that!
      You could use these:
      http://www.ebay.com/itm/1x1-Pole-12-Position-PANEL-PCB-Wiring-Rotary-Switch-1P12T-YG-/122043341332?hash=item1c6a599a14:g:NREAAOSwyKxXhLe9
      or these:
      http://www.ebay.com/itm/1x2-Pole-6-Position-PANEL-PCB-Wiring-Rotary-Switch-2P6T-YG-/112084022288?hash=item1a18ba7410:g:tGMAAOSw7s5XhLfg

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  12. Did anyone make a parts list or a link to buy them?

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  13. Thank you for this great layout. It's a fun fuzz. A bit trebby for my amp but very interesting. Pics of the build.

    http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/9520625/20170202_140834.jpg

    http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/9520625/20170202_140803.jpg

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  14. I love that Andy drops some "Witch" around 3 mins in the demo video!

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  15. Hello
    .Fini le véroboard mais apparement j'ai un problèmes de leds rouge (HS).Quelle diode pourrait remplacer ces deux leds?. Merci pour vos lumières.
    Bye

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  16. Les LED rouges ont une tension directe de 1,8 à 2V, orange, jaune ou vert vert sont similaires. Évitez le bleu ou le blanc qui sont beaucoup plus élevés. Si vous n'avez pas de LED, deux ou trois paires 1N4148 / 1N914 en série vous donneront un son similaire.

    Red LEDs have a forward voltage of 1.8 to 2v, orange, yellow or green green are similar. Avoid blue or white which are much higher. If you have no LEDs, two or three 1N4148/1N914 pairs in series will give you a similar sound

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  17. Merci beaucoup et a très bientôt.Bye

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  18. Works great. Keep up the good work !

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  19. Hi - thought I'd share some pictures of my build:

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/g5zjo1r00wveqgh/2017-03-08%2015.01.20.jpg?dl=0
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/tr86a8dnz61z0vj/2017-03-07%2020.04.18.jpg?dl=0

    Also I have a question. As I turn the clipping selection switch, it works pretty much as I would expect, but the two silicon selections gives me a jump in output level. Is this a feature or have I made a mistake somewhere?

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    Replies
    1. Do you have a drilling template?

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  20. Someone on the forum noted a problem with the switch connections. I have updated my wiring as per labeling on the pedal:

    NONE
    LED
    FET
    Si1
    Si2

    That gives me the following connections

    Switch 1 - A: As in layout
    Switch 1 - 1: No connection
    Switch 1 - 2: 5mm LEDs
    Switch 1 - 3: 2n7000
    Switch 1 - 4: 1n4148
    Switch 1 - 5: BAT41

    Works perfectly now.

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    Replies
    1. Do you by any chance have a drilling template for this pedal?

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  21. Just built this. Fired up right away. Very versatile pedal. Have a 2p6t so I added a pair of germanium diodes to the sixth pole. A bit unnecessary but I recently got a big batch of Russian d9e diodes.

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    1. How is it with germs? I am in a similar situation.

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  22. Its pretty good with the germaniums. Not all that different from the schottky diodes but a little less output. It gets pretty nasty with fuzz and 8 bit cranked

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  23. Alright, sounds good. I might socket them so I can try different ones in that position.

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