Switchable Onboard Power +9/+18V

Awhile ago I saw someone asking adding an +18V inverter to a board and the differences it made in some pedals, as well as what they need to do and worry about. Since there are more then a few people who have added an +18V inverter on a switch so they can switch between +9V and +18V, so I thought to myself, why not just whip up a quick layout to show how to do it for those that do not know.

Here's two that use an NE555 Chip

Here's two based on the 7660s/1044, based on the voltage doubler section of the madbean road rage voltage doubler section. schematic

Even though you can just run the +9V from the DC jack to SW1 and run that to the power in on the board, I don't like having multiple wires on a single lug of a switch so I made it so that you grab it form the board instead.

Keeley Katana Boost Layout Rev 2

alphadog808 was having problems with his Katana Boost build and I noticed one of the cap values was incorrect.  I also noticed that I had no motivation to fix it because it was an old pig ugly layout so thought I'd do an updated version and add it as a new thread to keep the versions separated. 

A bit smaller than my last layout and I've also included trimmers to replace the JFETs drain resistors to make it easy to bias and fine tune to your own liking.

Info about the original:

As far as guitar clean boosts go, the Katana is KING TONE. It's the pedal to have for the finishing touch on your tone.

Want a mirror image of your tone, only louder? This is it. The Katana is also a fat, harmonically rich boost, just pull out on the volume knob and stretch your imagination with overdriven tone! You can keep it on all the time to push your amp harder, or as an occasional boost to cut through the mix.

Obsessed or Compelled with the Fattest, Fullest Drive? Well, Before other people started using Blue LED's and non-diode clipping stages, there was the TMB and Katana.... Cascading FET stages do the tube-amp-thing like nothing else!

The Katana circuit is Robert Keeley's first guitar effect design for Keeley Electronics. It was originally designed for Legendary Tones for the Time Machine Boost but then became an independent product under the Keeley name after the Compressor came out. Robert's very first effect pedal design (1999) was a digitally controlled Analog Delay complete with built in digital tuner. It worked perfectly and can even be seen at the shop from time to time. Delay times could be input via a keypad to enter the amount of delay in milliseconds or by potentiometers. The Katana is no less stunning in its beautiful simplicity and stunning sound quality.

Providence Stampede OD SOV-2

And this is the one I did the bipolar voltage converter for! :o)

This pedal uses a 9V supply which is then converted to +/-15V using a 5V regulator into an expensive NMA0515SC 5V to +/-15V converter, plus a couple of inductors which is another unusual component for us to use.  So I preferred the idea of using components I was more familiar with and which could be obtained at a lower cost and in any quantity.

So you're going to need the bipolar converter layout I did from yesterday.  This will take you a bit above the +/-15V used by the original which may give you a little more headroom, but if you want to drop it a bit further consider putting a polarity protection diode in series with the 9V supply to the charge pump.  That will drop the voltage around 0.7V before conversion to get things a bit lower.  I think if you do that and use 1N4001 instead of 1N5817 in the charge pump you'll be very close to the required number.  Or just have a bit of extra headroom, it's up to you.

You can either make it all on one board, or I reckon it would be easier to keep the converter on a separate daughter board which can be tucked away somewhere in the box.

The diodes are unknown, here is a pic posted by Olof who posted the schematic on Freestompboxes if anyone has any ideas:

It has been suggested that the red and blue one may be a 1S1588, which I think is one of the unobtainium diodes in the Analogman King of Tone.  And the other has been suggested to be a 1N4249.  If you can get them to try then all the better, if not then just use a 1N4148 and 1N4001 combination which I'm sure will get you 99% there if not all the way.  Or experiment and let us all know how it turns out! :o)

Manufacturers description:

A wide dynamic range of overdrive sounds.
The Providence SOV-2 Stampede OD pedal is designed to deliver natural overdrive without obscuring the inherent characteristics and tone of the guitar being used. It features a special bipolar power supply that powers the internal circuitry with boosted voltage, providing a wider dynamic range than possible with conventional 9-volt powered overdrives. For singing lead tones and solid, chunky rhythms, there's nothing like the SOV-2 Stampede OD.

Bipolar Voltage Converter

This will be a useful little circuit for anyone wanting voltage doubling and negative voltage from a single charge pump.  I've done this with a particular layout in mind, but I think it may come in handy for a few effects that require +/- supplies, which can now be accommodated with a small daughterboard.

I don't know if this will work with our more commonly used ICL7660S although the pinout does appear to be the same.  The schematic called for LT1054 which are more expensive, but I only paid about £5 for 5 on eBay a while ago and so they can still be had for a reasonable price without being fleeced too much.  If you do want to try the ICL7660S then it may be worth omitting the cut between pins 1 and 8 to enable the frequency boost so you don't get noise.  The LT1054's oscillator typically runs at 25kHz.

Using the 1N5817 diodes shown should give you around +/-17V, but if an effect calls for +/-15V then you could always opt for using 1N4001 diodes instead.  The extra voltage drop will get you closer to 15V.

Catalinbread DLS MKIII

I didn't think it would end up too big, so I thought I'd jump straight in at the deep end and do a modified version with additional 9V/18V switching and the components switching done with individual toggles rather than a single 4PDT switch, which allows you to turn the selections on and off independently.

If you want it exactly like the original, you can omit the charge pump and associated components and take 9V directly to where VSw 3 connects to the board.  Then use a 4PDT toggle instead of two SPDT and one DPDT for switches 1 to 3.

Info about Catalinbread's original:

Introducing the new Dirty Little Secret from Catalinbread. The Dirty Little Secret has earned itself a well-deserved reputation for replicating the sound and feel of a classic era Marshall amplifier, supplying one of the most iconic guitar sounds in music. Able to clean up with a flick of your guitar's volume control, or go from mild crunch to full kerrang with your pick attack, the Dirty Little Secret has seen the inside of arenas and bedrooms alike, providing great overdriven sounds to clean backlines, low-wattage amps, and even direct applications. When the JFETs used as the base for the Dirty Little Secret were discontinued, and as our stock of them began to dwindle we knew we had to find ones still being manufactured. However, rather than simply re-voicing around these new JFETs, we decided to push the envelope and provide an amazingly robust feature-set, from ever evolving listening and circuit skills, and pure power of intention. This isn't just 'a' Marshall in a box, it's the most versatile and dynamic Marshall-style overdrive out there!

What's new in the Dirty Little Secret:

• The DLS now offers two distinct voicings, "Super Lead" and "Super Bass" switchable via an internal slider switch.

• Completely redesigned full three-knob treble-middle-bass tone control complement that reconfigures for each mode setting.

• We've also added an internal presence trimmer that allows you to fine-tune the presence of the pedal precisely to your guitar and amp combination.

• The gain range is much wider and even more responsive to pickup types, playing dynamics and instrument volume knob!

The "Super Lead" mode expands the range of the DLS MkII with more gain available and more control over your tone sculpting with the addition of the midrange control without losing any of the touch-sensitive dynamic qualities that made the MkII so great to play - in fact, those qualities have been enhanced. The gain range now goes from classic plexi all the way to modified JCM800 levels and can get even more raw and open than any previous DLS. This mode was voiced specifically to make humbucker-equipped guitars really rock with clean to scream all from the twist of your guitar's volume knob.

The "Super Bass" mode is a new voicing that gives you the tone and gain structure of a Marshall Super Bass (which is very similar to a JTM45 or JTM50/100). This mode was voiced to really hone in on that elusive in-between "not quite clean, not quite dirty" response that old tube amps were so good at getting. And it was specifically voiced to make fuzz pedals sound great (especially two-transistor based fuzzes like the fuzz face). Plug a Strat into a Fuzz Face into the new DLS in SB mode and you'll see what we mean!

Single voltage only version.  This was requested but it only saved one row, so I don't think I'd omit it for a bit of extra versatility.  But here it is if you just want to power it using a single supply. [smaller version added]

Video of Geiri's build:

NE555 Voltage Inverter

Here's a cheaper-to-build alternative for MAX1044/ICL7660 voltage inverter charge pump. According to the documentation, this puppy is capable of 30mA of output current, so it'll be enough for any stompbox use. Circuit isn't as small, as using NE555 timer chip will need couple of resistors and caps to get the job done. Still, simple and small enough. This one is for you guys wanting to get your PNP germanium fuzzes daisy chainable. (and i copied part of the text from the doubler post :))

NE555 Voltage Doubler

Here's a cheaper-to-build alternative for MAX1044/ICL7660 voltage doubler charge pump. According to the documentation, this puppy is capable of 30mA of output current, so it'll be enough for any stompbox use. Circuit isn't as small, as using NE555 timer chip will need couple of resistors and caps to get the job done. Still, simple and small enough.

ARC Effects B3

This is ARC Effects take on the Burns Buzzaround with a negative voltage inverter to provide -9V to allow you to maintain a daisy chainable negative ground, but use the better quality PNP germanium transistors.  This is a mojo version as per the first edition of the pedal.

ARC Effects make some fantastic pedals and has some of the highest build quality I've seen in commercial pedals, and I would wholeheartedly recommend their pedals to anyone if you're in the market for something they make.

Madbean FatPants 2012

Madbean's take on the EP Pre-amp. Info from Brian about his design:

The FatPants design began as an alternative to the “pedalized” versions of the input stage of the Echoplex that became popularized a few years ago. Over the course of the two previous versions the design has evolved, and the 2012 version is no exception. The 2012 version adds a JFET input buffer, a new Body switch for high-gain/full spectrum boost and a re-tooled output section. These changes add versatility and dimensionality to the previous design. The FatPants 2012 is capable of a wide range of boost and overdrive and will serve as a perfect compliment to push your tone into saturation while retaining note clarity and dynamics.

Fat – Sets the overall gain of the boost.
Lvl – The output volume.
Body – Selects between a mid-range and full range boost. In full range mode, it also adds additional gain.

You may encounter some scratchiness with the Fat control when the Body switch is off. This is normal. Unfortunately, this cannot be eliminated from the design without altering the overall character of the effect. The Fat control works in concert with the 22n cap to produce frequency-dependent gain. As the control is turned up, it applies increasing gain to the upward filter. This results in increased pick attack and dynamics. When the control is down, the filter is also lowered, but since the overall gain is lowered at the same time it does not “muddy up” the signal.

Setting up the FatPants:

Leave the Body switch off, set the Fat control to max. Adjust T1 until you read approximately 9v on the drain of Q2 with your multimeter. Tweak as desired for maximum gain.

Anderton Super Tone Control

I think this will be popular with quite a few people, especially those who want to get the most of their dirt pedals and fine tune the frequency response more effectively.  I think this would go to make the perfect distortion pedal if you put your favourite dirt circuit with this in a dual effect box, particularly with an order switcher so you could put the tone control before or after the dirt.  The IC is supplied with +/- 9V and I have altered the circuit slightly to use my preferred method of doing this with a ICL7660S to provide the bipolar supply.

Note that the original is advertised as being capable of accepting a supply from +/5V to +/-18V.  However, the ICL7660S can accept a maximum of only 12V and so I would suggest keeping the supply at 9V if you use the suggested charge pump IC.  That still gives you an 18V swing which I expect would be more than adequate for this, but if you would prefer to use an 18V supply for additional headroom then you could use an ICL7662 which is rated for up to 20V although these may be more difficult to find and certainly more expensive.

Info about the original project from the author:

Deflnltlon: Offers flexible control over tone by creating several different response options. Low pass response boosts low frequencies and attenuates high frequencies; high pass response boosts high frequencies, and attenuates low frequencies; bandpass response boosts a specific frequency range; and notch response attenuates a specific frequency.

The "state variable" filter is a type of filter used in several synthesizers to control timbre; this circuit is a variation of the state-variable filter that has been optimized for tone control purposes. It offers considerably more sonic flexibility than the tone controls found on most instruments and amplifiers.

. Variable resonance control changes "sharpness" of the sound
. Easily resettable to fiat response
. Low-pass, high-pass, the band pass outputs alre individually mixable via an onboard mixer to create highly complex responses
. Useful as recording studio or PA equalizer
. Operates at low level or line level

Modified with additional volume control.

OKKO Diablo - Modded Monster Pot Edition

Request.  A modded version of the Okko Diablo with pots replacing the onboard trimmers and scope for even more!  This will give you an 8 knob version of the Diablo with the Presence and Bass controls external.  If you're feeling particularly brave you could even replace the trimmers on the booster to make an 11 knob Okko Diablo Behemoth, but I'll leave that one up to you! :o)

Includes a switch which will supply the circuits with either 9V or 18V to give you even more versatility in the dynamics and headroom of the effect, and the main effect and boost have been done on separate boards so you can just make the main circuit if you want to, or maybe even add your favourite boost instead of this one.  The main board will fit in a 1590B and there's a prize for the first person to do it with all 7 main board pots! :o)

Tip: I have heard a recommendation that the 100R resistor from Q3 source can be replaced with a 1K trimmer to help bias things up, but again I'll leave that choice to you as to whether you add a trimmer or experiment with resistor values (800 ohms worked for the guy who suggested it).

Info about the original from Okko:

The Diablo is a versatile low to medium gain overdrive with an exceptionally dynamic response. It preserves the character of your instruments and is very sensitive to your playing technique. Thanks to the effective and musical controls, the Diablo works equally well with any kind of guitar, amp or playing style. People use it for so many different sounds, you would hardly believe that they use the same pedal.

Besides the usual Gain, Tone and Level knobs, the Diablo has some more interesting controls:

FEED affects the amount of bass in the input signal. You know the problem: an overdrive sound gets muddy rapidly if the input signal is too bass heavy (that’s why the treble booster was invented).  With the FEED control you can make even the fattest neck humbucker sound clear and transparent or beef up weak pickups a little.

The BODY control takes effect on mids and compression.  Another important feature is the HEADROOM SWITCH. Set to the "HI" position, an internal electronic voltage doubler is activated – the Diablo runs on 18 Volts from a regular 9 V battery or power supply.  The higher voltage gives more dynamic range, more headroom and tighter bass – just try it!

The Diablo comes in two versions: the regular one and the Diablo Gain+ with two footswitchable gain settings.

Negative Voltage Inverter

I've done a few layouts using this method, but thought it may be useful to include a little daughter board which will allow you to easily convert any existing positive ground effects to (daisy chainable) negative ground.

Just de-solder the supply and ground wire from the existing board, and solder to this board, then take a couple of new wires from the -9V output and ground connections on this back to the de-soldered pads on the effects board.

5 minute job and you can get rid of your positive ground power supply.

Boob Tube V1.5

There have been a few requests for tube based pedals and this is one I did previously.  Based around JuanSolo's 12V Boob Tube which is a Valvecaster variant, but here with a 33 - 40V supply via a charge pump.  Make sure you choose appropriate rated capacitors for the voltage.  This is verified and apparently sounds great.

Here's the tagboard layout:

And here's a charge pump, if you supply it with 12V you should get close to 40V from the 33V output point.  The ICL7660S can accept a 12V supply but that's the maximum for that IC, but you can't use the MAX1044 at 12V.

If you want to supply the charge pump with 9V and so avoid using a 12V adapter, you could use a 12V regulator off the 17V rail to provide the 12V required for the heater, or maybe even a voltage divider from the 25V rail.  In this instance you would only get around 33V for the plates though.

Here's the pedal built up and looking very nice, built by candletears7:

Tone Bender MkII - PNP with negative ground

Request.  This will allow you to use the better quality PNP germanium transistors, but keep a negative ground so it can be daisy chained with all you other NPN effects.

Xotic EP Booster - Briggs Modded

Requested.  This is a modified version of the Xotic EP Booster, done by Fred Briggs and seen on his blog La Révolution Deux.  Have a look around there and you'll find some really interesting articles and information about many modern and classic effects.  This version includes the voltage converter to provide 18V from a 9V supply.  Cheers Fred.

ROG Supreaux Deux

Runoffgroove's stompbox emulation of the old Supro 16T amps and so potentially a good one for the BJF Honey Bee fans.  This one needs 18V and so will require an appropriate power supply, or maybe make yourself a voltage converter like this one.  Info from the website:

Supro was a budget brand name for amplifiers produced by Valco in Chicago, IL during the golden age of tubes. The same model of amplifier could be sold as a Gretsch, National, or Airline brand (through the Montgomery-Ward catalog). Valco manufactured amps are now highly sought after and have increased in price accordingly. Jimmy Page reportedly used a Supro amp while recording Led Zeppelin's debut album and other guitarists have also employed the small combos in the studio for searing electric blues. In April of 2002, these amps were featured in the ToneQuest Report.

The original Supro 16T circuit design is similar to other single-ended Class A amplifiers from the period, but subtle differences are present. The filter network following the first stage rolls off bass and treble content where the tonestack of a Fender Champ or Princeton normally resides. The Supro's single Tone control is placed after the second pre-amp stage. Thus, more high-end signal is present to drive the second stage. Also, there is no use of negative feedback to reduce distortion. This circuit produces a wide range of sounds that do not sound much like the Fenders, Voxes, and other famous names; it has it's own character and identity. 

More information about the circuit can be found on the Runoffgroove website.

Klon Centaur

[Updated 4th July 2014 - correction to treble control resistors]

Note: A new revision of the Klon layout has been done which is smaller and makes better use of the space, so if you want to build this I'd suggest using that layout instead which will also be easier to fit in a 1590B for those wanting to use a smaller box.

Based on Madbean's Sunking schematic.  At 21 x 26 it at least has the potential to fit in a 1590B, so I'll be really impressed if someone can manage that, especially with the dual gang pot.  Don't forget to sprinkle fairy dust over the diodes.

Video of Geiri's build:

True bypass version:

(kit is for the original buffered bypass version)

Keeley Katana Boost

Layout updated.  If you want to build this now I would suggest you build this version

http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2014/02/keeley-katana-boost-layout-rev-2.html

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Vero layout for this popular pedal with built in charge pump to provide the required 18V from a 9V supply.

 

UPDATE (09-02-2012):

The schematic that this layout was created from has been shown to be incorrect.  In the scheme the switchable 10u cap was linked to the source of Q2, this in fact needs to link to the source of Q1.  Apologies to anyone who has made this up, but it is a quick fix, just unsolder the cable and re-solder it into it's new home as per the updated layout below:

ColorSound SupaSustain

This one needs an 18V supply, so use a dedicated supply, two batteries, or you could build up the 9V to 18V converter that I've posted here.  Best results may be obtained if you heat shrink the LED and LDR together or at least wrap a bit of electricians tape round them both.

Fuzz Face PNP negative ground with simple bipolar power supply

This one will let you continue to use the more consistent PNP germanium transistors, but the charge pump will provide a -9V supply, so the ground at 0V can be daisy chained with all your negative ground effects.  The same structure could be used with any circuit that is usually PNP like the Rangemaster or Tonebender.