Here's two that use an NE555 Chip
Here's two based on the 7660s/1044, based on the voltage doubler section of the madbean road rage voltage doubler section. schematic
Tuesday, 5 January 2016
Switchable Onboard Power +9/+18V
Awhile ago I saw someone asking adding an +18V inverter to a board and the differences it made in some pedals, as well as what they need to do and worry about. Since there are more then a few people who have added an +18V inverter on a switch so they can switch between +9V and +18V, so I thought to myself, why not just whip up a quick layout to show how to do it for those that do not know.
Here's two that use an NE555 Chip
Here's two based on the 7660s/1044, based on the voltage doubler section of the madbean road rage voltage doubler section. schematic
Even though you can just run the +9V from the DC jack to SW1 and run that to the power in on the board, I don't like having multiple wires on a single lug of a switch so I made it so that you grab it form the board instead.
Here's two that use an NE555 Chip
Here's two based on the 7660s/1044, based on the voltage doubler section of the madbean road rage voltage doubler section. schematic
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I'm not sure if you intended this...but I noticed Pin 1 of the 7660S (the Boost pin) is grounded. Wouldn't you want to remove the cut between pins 1 and 8 (and the link to ground), connecting the boost pin to V+, to raise the oscillator frequency out of the audio band? It's set at 10kHz by default, so you would hear it.
ReplyDelete-Ryan
hey ryan. thanks for catching that. i was messing around with 2 layouts for two different IC's. it's been updated and i added the layout for the 7660s/1044 chip.
DeleteHey Zach, thanks for the layouts. Is there any differences in performance between the two versions? I have not used the 555 version at all, so don't know myself.
ReplyDeleteI'm thinking that with the relatively high price of 7660S and MAX1044 and the high chance of buying fakes if you find them cheap from China, the 555 version will be a cheaper and more reliable option.
Do you know if there are any preferred versions of the 555, or any versions to avoid?
Cheers,
Mark.
not that i know of. the ne555 layout is identical to the one mark posted awhile ago and mentioned that it's cheaper alternative to the 7660s. the one thing though that i noticed between the two is that the physical size of the ne555 layout is just a little bigger and seems to use a few more components, so price wise it may just even itself out, but i'm not sure.
DeleteYou can get more current from the NE555 version...
Deletethe difference between 555 and 7660s-1044 is as Zack said size and number of components.
Deletebut there is an other difference between 555-7660s-1044-1054. Max Current...my great enemy those few weeks...
http://www.madbeanpedals.com/projects/RoadRage/docs/RoadRage_2015.pdf
i've read almost everything on this cause i wan't to make my rustbucket work, without paying 10 euros for just one 1054 chip...i need current!!!
by the way i've build the 555 version Mark posted and it works just fine. though i didn't got 18v. i got something between 16v~17v
I've personally used this PCB layout I made for all my voltage doubling needs https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/PaTlnSoh . Made from one of Mark's 7660S voltage doublers on here. Using an LT1054, so pins 1 and 8 are not linked. The 1054 is $2.95 from Smallbear. The whole board works out to about $4 with components and PCB.
DeleteAnd it's tiny!
You could do the switching with an SPDT on-on instead. 18V goes to lug 1, 9V goes to lug 3, and lug 2 goes to power the effect
ReplyDeleteThat's how I have done mine too.
DeleteWith the DPDT the Charge Pump is not consuming any power while being unused. That might be a benefit for some people...
DeleteThanks for this post!
ReplyDeleteGracias, Gracias, Gracias, Gracias, Gracias, Gracias, Gracias, Gracias, Gracias!!!!!!
ReplyDelete555 rules
what are the difference between the version of "switch DPDT on-off-on" and "Switch SPDT on-on" i don't get it
ReplyDeletenot a whole lot, other then the switch and how it connects to this daughterboard and the main board. an SPDT switch is smaller and cheaper then a DPDT. and in reality looking at the DPDT switch it should be ON-NONE-ON, giving you either 9V or 18V, rather then having no power at all, so i'll make that change.
Deletethanks Zach ;)
Deletehere both switchs cost the same
why are there two ground lines?
ReplyDeletethey are linked on the board.
correct. you only need 1 ground connection. the reason i put 2 is the idea that you can take the ground from the daughterboard and run it to the main board.
Deletethaks for tellin
Deletebtw, do you know any substitutes for the ICs？
it is difficult to get them in Japan
The 555 is the highest selling IC ever made. It doesn't get more common
ReplyDeleteYou can tag the 7660 version as VERIFIED!
ReplyDeletePuts out 17.68V from a 9.22V battery. I'm rebuilding my test box based on Miro's V2 and this makes a great addition. I've also built a simple 555 square wave oscillator that will act as a tone generator when debugging circuits (saves plugging in a guitar or my iPhone)
Cheers man. Top job once again!
great job man. i was 99.999999% sure they would work, but since i didn't build it i had to wait for verification. it seems to me that you really never get 18v on the dot with a charge pump, but so what you got is spot on with what i normally see.
Deletebuilt it with 7660scpa. works great. gives surprising 19.5 V out of 9.5 V. might be slightly odd/bad voltmeter.
ReplyDeleteArgh, got a problem, maybe someone got a helping idea. when i try to use this fine thing for a 18v mxr m108 equalizer it is pulsing and my guitar makes scratchy pot noises. the later (scratchyness) i know as when there is current on a potentiometer. doesnt seem right. is this a common issue due to the oscillation and is there a way to avoid that?
ReplyDeleteit is pulsing only when i attach a guitar to the pedal. an open input cable without guitar is totally fine
Deletesomething isn't right, and im not sure if it's the switchable power or not, but i think it's the mxr108 build. did it happen without it? what i mean is with 9V, rather then the voltage doubler. you might want to check the voltage of the doubler to see if it's a constant voltage or if it's fluctuating.
DeleteThank you very much. tested the doubler. my dmm shows stable numbers. when i use it with a ep booster clone it sounds great. no issue, no crackling of pots.
ReplyDeleteim afraid it is the pedal mxr.
when i put a patch cable in input of the mxr its silent, no pulsing. seems alright. if i attach the guitar or short the patch( + to -) the pulsing starts and the leds blink ( what normally should indicate clipping on this pedal)...
help very welcome
oh, and the mxr pulses the same manner with 9v batterie or wallwart.. seems to be pedal
ReplyDeleteOR i damaged the pedal by pluggin in the doubler first time ( is that
nevertheless the pedal works, but makes this pulsing sounds in the background
did you try different guitars or different guitar cables going from the guitar to the mxr? it could be either the mxr or the cables you're using connecting the guitar to the mxr.
DeleteI did sadly. Its the only thing left...
DeleteHi. I just build NE555 circuit (the second one with the SPDT) for an EP boost circuit and I've been having some trouble. I blew up the 220uf cap on the top right twice (not sure why. They're rated at 50V). I tried reversing it so the white bit now faces down and the circuit seems to run ok (getting 16.7v) but now I've got a midrangey squeal through the amp that I wasn't getting without the charge pump. It's coming through with the switch in both positions.
ReplyDeleteDoes anyone have any idea on either of those issues? Blowing caps or the squeal? It's not heaps loud, and the boost still sounds quite good but it's too loud to be usable.
Cheers
Isn't the 220uF between +18v and ground reversed in the NE555 versions??
ReplyDeletehey man. just took a look, and yes they are backwards. thanks for the catch. fixed and reuploaded.
DeleteI got some tantulum 10u 35v lying around. Is it a got idea to use them for the 7660s?
ReplyDeleteThose will work just fine. Although i wouldn't do that myself. Tantalums are the best in signal path. For example, synth builders in my town go to lenghts avoiding tantalums in supply circuits due to their fear of tantalums shorting out in some cases. Never had a short with tantalums myself. But then again, i've only used those for signal path...
Delete+m
How about non polarised Electrolyte ones?
DeleteShould wotk fine. Standard polarized aluminun electrolytic will perform the best and be most reliable. Non-polar will work in the same manner, but cost more.
Delete+m
I just cannot get the 7660s version to work, I checked it multiple times and measured for shorts, but I get nowhere near 18V.
ReplyDelete1. I measured my adapter 9,45 V
2. I connect it to the board and measure at the solderpoint of the 9V DC lug... 0,45V
3. I measure at 18V output and get 0,33V
I am going mad now.... Can anyone tip me what could possably be wrong?
Made a pcb of this to check what I could have done worng, but no difference. Maybe you can spot my mistake(s)?
ReplyDeletehttp://postimg.org/image/l8h1r51oh/
If you followed the layout exactly (great job on the PCB too) then this will work. If it doesn't work on both the layout AND the PCB, start removing the things they used in common....the IC, PSU, DC socket, reused caps?? etc. Eventually you will discover the problem.
ReplyDeleteArgh. When I remove D3 and no IC I get 9,45V but the 100u heats up. its a 35V rated one... Removing the 100u and placing the IC the IC heats up... When I replace D3 again, I get 0,45V again ... any hints? I have 100V rated 10u's.
DeleteOk, ban me from this site :) I was so convinced it was not reversed polarity that it blinded me... what a noob error... sorry all for my questions. And you were right ciaran. At least I learned something again today! Do not be so convinced you checked everything before you really checked everything.. twice or more :)
DeleteHi, what is the max. mA for these charge pumps?
ReplyDeleteIs it suitable for a ocd pedal?
ReplyDeleteNo absolute maximum rating at the datasheet, but at least 40mA. Which is more than enough for 99% of the dirt circuits. Depends heavily on the load.
Deletehttp://www.intersil.com/content/dam/Intersil/documents/icl7/icl7660s-a.pdf
And yes. With OCD and this, you'll get the EHX Glove. http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.fi/search?q=glove
+m
It looks like the 220u cap at pin 3 of the NE555 is drawn reversed on both NE555 versions.
ReplyDeleteI believe the negative leg of the 220u connects to pin 3 of IC NE555 and the + leg connects to the diodes jct.
I built the NE555 switch version for use with a Plexi Drive.
ReplyDeleteI'm using a DPDT stomp switch for the switch and getting a pop when switching to 18vs. No pop when switching back to 9vs.
I get the pop even without the LED hooked up.
Any suggestions to stop this kind of pop?
Hey MAO I'm having a similar issue, were you able to find a soultion?
DeleteHey Bakerj, thanks for reaching out. I miss this community.
DeleteI'm sorry to say though, I dont recall what I ended up with but I think I ditched the NE555 versions.
I'll get back to you if I can find what I did and/or the layout used.
Is it possible to have a 9volt to 6volt converter changing something in this layout?sorry for the stupid question,i'm new
ReplyDeleteAnd also for the bad english
DeleteYou wouldn't need these layouts.
ReplyDeleteCurious, why do you need 6v?
it's for a circuit bending project. So how i can do it?
ReplyDeleteI would probably consider switching in a higher current limiting resistor to drop the 3 volts. 1/2 watt resistor to be safe.
DeleteI seem to recall JohnK once posting something about dropping 3 volts with a switch in a layout he had built. I'll see if I can find it.
Can you post a link to the schematic or layout you are using?
That will help suggest a proper way of doing it.
ok, I found John's post
Deletehttp://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2013/01/catalinbread-sagrado-poblano-picoso.html
I believe John was referring to this voltage switching mod.
http://www.muzique.com/news/mini-booster-fat-and-fatter/
HOWEVER, THAT MOD WAS INTENDED TO BE APPLIED ALONG WITH AN APPROPRIATE CURRENT LIMITING RESISTOR. Otherwise the LED will burn out.
Again, if you post the layout or schematic, I'm sure I can draw you a layout that would be appropriate for your pedal's design.
Mike
So do the electrolytic's have to be higher than 16v or are 16v electro's fine?
ReplyDeleteThe electrolytics must be higher then the possible voltage they will take. I always suggest using electrolytics that are rated 25V in general since most effects don't have voltage that high.
DeleteSweet thanks for the quick reply Zach
DeleteAlso say if I wanted the bottom example (spdt/7660s) to be just an 18v converter, without the switch, would I just remove the switch and ignore the sw1 wire? And leave everything else the same?
DeleteYes
DeleteI'm a little confused about the DPDT switching. What are the three positions? I see that Sw3 engages 18V output, but what is the difference between the other 2 positions, Sw1 and None(center)?
ReplyDeleteThere are 2 positions, +18V and +9V. It's an on-on switch.
DeletePerhaps I have the wrong switch. The layouts are labeled "On-NONE-On". I thought that was the same as "On-Off-On". Did I really want a DPDT "On-On" instead?
DeleteDuh...a little Google action shows I'm not overly bright. It seems that "On-none-On" is not the same as "On-Off-On". Looks like I need the DPDT that Tayda calls "On-On".
DeleteAm I correct that only reason to use a DPDT On-On instead of a SPDT On-On is to remove power from the circuit when in the 9V position?
Correct On-None-On is the same as On-On you'll see both indentificatoins. The difference between the two wiring options is for space and it's just a different way to do it. Both use the same 2 position switch, either you get +9V or +18V. Again there are 2 possible voltages, due to 2 possible positions.
DeleteUp and running with the NE555 configuration at about 17.2v from a 9v battery source. Have not tried it with a power supply yet. Those higher voltage electrolytic caps take up more space. Had to get a little creative to keep this thing small.
Deletehi Tagboarders!
ReplyDeleteI'm currently soldering a DBA echodream 2 and wondering to add the +18v to the input with a voltage doubler.
Do you think the first two design with the ne555 is suitable for this project? Currentwise...
thanks guys in advance!
awesome site, good community. I already built 4-5 pedals with these schematics (two of them works perfectly already :) ) and still have wast amount of enthusiasm left. :D
Meanwhile I've finished a charge pump according to the first layout (with the ne555).
DeleteAlthough I'm only getting 15.2Volts.
Any idea why?
Guys I know this is an old thread, but I hope the original poster will see this comment as I have found a mistake on the NE555 boards. The 220uF capacitor just below the 1nF capacitor is reversed. The negative of the cap should go to pin 3 of the 555. The way it shows on the layout will damage the capacitor. Mine is a 35V cap and it got hot and its top became round. The voltage coming out was also too low. about 14 or 15 volts. Sometimes it didn't output anything at all. I don't know how people built it the way shown in the layout and it worked?? The cap is wrong and it will blow up sooner or later :)
ReplyDeleteCould I add a pot on the 18V output to sag the voltage down to 9V?
ReplyDeletetry a 10k pot with a 10k resistor on pin 1 to ground, +18V on pin 3 and pin 2 as Vout. When turned all the way to the left it will be voltage divider of 50%. All the way to the right it will give you 18V. It comes at a cost to the current it will provide to the board so do not use it on big current consuming boards.
DeleteThanks Arnold! That worked perfectly! I put another pot on the 9V side too. Now I just need to box it up and hide it underneath my pedalboard. I'm also considering adding a voltage display to mine, just gotta try it out and figure out how much current that will leave me with. Doubt it will be an issue though, I'm going to be using it primarily to power my Catalinbread SFT. I might test it out on some other pedals to see how they react but since that's my only 18V pedal and it would be easy to accidentally overpower a 9V pedal my SFT is probably the only one that will be in constant use. This will free up a space on my Voodoo Lab for another pedal since I won't have to rely on a voltage doubler cable taking up two slots anymore.
DeleteWell, do not go too wild.. A 7660s can deliver about 40mA and a LT1054 about 100mA so it will not be able to supply a lot of chained effects.
DeleteI tried out the voltage display but it dropped the output down to 16V so I decided against including it in the finished build. Works great for my needs though, might have to build a second one soon.
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteI just checked and my build(2nd 7660S version) is putting out below 14V now. It used to work fine, does this mean I blew a cap? I can’t see any visual signs that any burned up.
ReplyDeleteWhat diodes are you using? If you are using 1N4001, change them to 1N5817.
DeleteWhat voltage do you have at pins 1 and 8?
DeleteFWIW, on the 2nd 7660 version you can omit the 10uf cap between pins 2 and 4. And after doing that, you can also ground pin 5. (That cap is only needed when using the -9v output at pin 5)
But do not ground pin 5 without removing the 10uf cap between pins 2 and 4.
I've got 9.18V on Pin 1 and Pin 8. I am using a 1N4001 for D3 only.
Delete