Here's a collection of vero (stripboard) and tagboard guitar and bass effect layouts that we have put together covering many classic and popular effects in growing numbers. Many of these have been posted on freestompboxes.org, so check that site out for great discussions on building your own effect pedals. Enjoy the builds and please also visit us on Facebook and Twitter
Had to check.. The dual pots are quite an overkill as all of them are wired in parallel. One can use B250K for vol, treble and bass and B25K for gain and grit. Won't make any difference to sound or control. +m
Hi Miro! I completely agree with you. I've just wanted to draw it identical to the original schematic but I don't think using dual pots would make any noticeable difference.
So then just double up on the wiring to the single pots? Take 4 5 6 for each and put them together with 1 2 3? Seems easy. I have a sleeve of 100 386 chips just dying to try this one!
Built this but its only working when the boost switch is activated, on the other setting no sound at all. Gone over it so many times but can't find any errors or misplaced components.
Got to say though when using it with the boost setting its fantastic, if only i could find the problem. I used B250ks and 25ks.
Mmm.. Just checked it and according to the schematic pin 8 goes to ground when boost is disengaged. There is a wire going from the board to Boost Sw 3,5. Try to disconnect it from pin 3 and just leave it connected to pin 5.
FWIW I had one of these pedals when they first came out. Apparently they were designed to be used quite hot and adjusted from the guitar's volume control. Well no matter how i used it it sounded pretty bad and hissed like a mofo.
So if anyone gets a good sound out of this the circuit is probably wrong. :-) It's also probably why there are no good videos of it. Cool layout - I hope it brings someone joy.
Yeah!! Another lm386!
ReplyDeleteHad to check.. The dual pots are quite an overkill as all of them are wired in parallel. One can use B250K for vol, treble and bass and B25K for gain and grit. Won't make any difference to sound or control.
ReplyDelete+m
Hi Miro!
ReplyDeleteI completely agree with you.
I've just wanted to draw it identical to the original schematic but I don't think using dual pots would make any noticeable difference.
So then just double up on the wiring to the single pots? Take 4 5 6 for each and put them together with 1 2 3? Seems easy. I have a sleeve of 100 386 chips just dying to try this one!
ReplyDeleteYou can use half size pots (B250K & B25K) and just wire lugs 1, 2 & 3. Forget 4, 5 & 6.
ReplyDeleteBuilt this but its only working when the boost switch is activated, on the other setting no sound at all. Gone over it so many times but can't find any errors or misplaced components.
ReplyDeleteGot to say though when using it with the boost setting its fantastic, if only i could find the problem. I used B250ks and 25ks.
Mmm.. Just checked it and according to the schematic pin 8 goes to ground when boost is disengaged. There is a wire going from the board to Boost Sw 3,5. Try to disconnect it from pin 3 and just leave it connected to pin 5.
DeleteThat did the trick, thanks Alex. Great sounding overdrive.
DeleteFWIW I had one of these pedals when they first came out. Apparently they were designed to be used quite hot and adjusted from the guitar's volume control. Well no matter how i used it it sounded pretty bad and hissed like a mofo.
ReplyDeleteSo if anyone gets a good sound out of this the circuit is probably wrong. :-) It's also probably why there are no good videos of it. Cool layout - I hope it brings someone joy.
What is top-leftmost CLR resistor?
ReplyDeleteWhatever size best suits your LEDs. Anywhere from 1K to 10K depending on the LED type, it's just a matter of preference.
Delete