Original FSB thread and schematic available here.
... and a layout with added Input & Output caps. (Will remove the one above later)
Here's a collection of vero (stripboard) and tagboard guitar and bass effect layouts that we have put together covering many classic and popular effects in growing numbers. Many of these have been posted on freestompboxes.org, so check that site out for great discussions on building your own effect pedals. Enjoy the builds and please also visit us on Facebook and Twitter
Hi!
ReplyDeleteWhat is a CLR resistor and "LED+"?
I did not find it in the schematic...
Thanks!
CLR stands for current limiting resistor and is just a resistor making sure that your status LED gets the right amount of current. There's lots of online calculators to get the numbers for whatever color your using, but if you're unsure 2200 ohm usually works well. LED+ is just the positive side of your status LED(usually the longer leg), the negative going to the switch as in the offboard guide that you can find in the tabs on this site.
DeleteThank you Voidvessel!
DeleteThis one was a bit different from other vero, in that matter.
Thanks!
Curious about this. May give it a go
ReplyDeleteyesterday I saw the layout ehx equalizer by johnk.
ReplyDeletenice layout Alex. I want to try this
Could an LT1054 be used in place of the 7660s?
ReplyDeleteNot on this layout.
DeleteIf you give me your email address I'll send you a modified layout for it.
This comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeletei use bc558. cool my humbucker sound like single pickup.. and pot bass so powerfull . damn great must try on bass. tq Alex
ReplyDeleteThanks Agung!
DeleteWill it work with a MAX1044 as replacement for the 7660S?
ReplyDeleteAnyone know what hFE on the BC309: A, B,or C?
ReplyDeleteI built this and used bc558s. Works as advertised, really nails a strat sound with humbuckers. My only issue is a nasty switch pop. Tried adding 1M pulldown on input and output, but still get some DC on the output. I also checked continuity between strips and across cuts—all good. Any other ideas of how to get rid of the DC?
ReplyDeleteDear god. Just noticed that the circuit does not have in/out caps at all - the schematic has it without them too. As it is, there will be DC voltage in both, always.
DeleteYou definitely want to add something like 1u cap in series with both input and output. And take the pulldows on the outer side of those caps.
Wonder if Alex would be interested in adding 1u input cap + 1M pulldown and 1u output cap + 220K pulldown to the layout...
+m
Cool. Wondered about that. Thanks for the fast reply!
DeleteDo the 1 Uf input and output caps need to be polarised electrolytics - or can they poly box caps?
ReplyDeleteIf polarised, which way round do they go?
Either will perform the same. Positive to circuit, negative to input and output.
Delete+m
Added.
DeleteThanks for that both of you - luckily I hadn't quite finished building the board.
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteHai I just wanna ask about blue dot in line with dry 1 or Low 1. Is that for hole or for something else??
ReplyDeleteI would also like to know the answer to this question.
DeleteI built layout with caps and have no signal on 4558 2b. Checked for solder bridges, components, ic... Is this layout verified?
ReplyDelete