Here's a collection of vero (stripboard) and tagboard guitar and bass effect layouts that we have put together covering many classic and popular effects in growing numbers. Many of these have been posted on freestompboxes.org, so check that site out for great discussions on building your own effect pedals. Enjoy the builds and please also visit us on Facebook and Twitter
Verified! Ended up with 680pf for C1, 1N5817 for D4 and 1N4001 for D3. Used a 2P6T and adjusted the washer to get five nodes. Sounds awesome. Thanks Alex and Nocentelli.
On the right side of the board, you have a resistor marked "CLR", which I'm guessing means "Current Limiting Resistor". What value did you use for this resistor?
Arrgh! Now that I've actually LOOKED at the circuit, I see this is going to the LED. I'm used to soldering that resistor off-board, directly to the LED. My bad... and thanks for your quick reply!
MPSA13 is a darlington transistor, which have very high HFE (min around 10 000). I would try a similar darlington transistor (maybe MPSA12, MPSA14, MPSA26, 2N5306, 2N5308, 2N6427, or others).
1) the 1P5T switch has 6 nodes - the signal IN node, and 5 OUTPUT nodes. The board shows connections out to "A, 2, 3, 4, and 5" - does "A" represent the IN node, and does that mean "1" is left unconnected? Or is there another point on the board leading to the switch that hasn't been marked?
2) Gavin - you "used a 2P6T and adjusted the washer to get five nodes". Can you go in to more detail on how you did this?
3) Where can you purchase this switch - are they all in the $8-$10 range?
1) Pin 1 is not connected. 2) The washer is inserted in one of the top holes to stop rotating at any point you waant. In this case you want it to rotate up to the 5th pin. 3) They are much cheaper than that! You could use these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1x1-Pole-12-Position-PANEL-PCB-Wiring-Rotary-Switch-1P12T-YG-/122043341332?hash=item1c6a599a14:g:NREAAOSwyKxXhLe9 or these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1x2-Pole-6-Position-PANEL-PCB-Wiring-Rotary-Switch-2P6T-YG-/112084022288?hash=item1a18ba7410:g:tGMAAOSw7s5XhLfg
Hello .Fini le véroboard mais apparement j'ai un problèmes de leds rouge (HS).Quelle diode pourrait remplacer ces deux leds?. Merci pour vos lumières. Bye
Les LED rouges ont une tension directe de 1,8 à 2V, orange, jaune ou vert vert sont similaires. Évitez le bleu ou le blanc qui sont beaucoup plus élevés. Si vous n'avez pas de LED, deux ou trois paires 1N4148 / 1N914 en série vous donneront un son similaire.
Red LEDs have a forward voltage of 1.8 to 2v, orange, yellow or green green are similar. Avoid blue or white which are much higher. If you have no LEDs, two or three 1N4148/1N914 pairs in series will give you a similar sound
Also I have a question. As I turn the clipping selection switch, it works pretty much as I would expect, but the two silicon selections gives me a jump in output level. Is this a feature or have I made a mistake somewhere?
Just built this. Fired up right away. Very versatile pedal. Have a 2p6t so I added a pair of germanium diodes to the sixth pole. A bit unnecessary but I recently got a big batch of Russian d9e diodes.
Its pretty good with the germaniums. Not all that different from the schottky diodes but a little less output. It gets pretty nasty with fuzz and 8 bit cranked
Hello, guys. I've recently built this fuzz pedal, however my volume pot is not behaving as I expected. There's significant volume increase when activating the pedal even with the pot set to 0 and when I increase, there's not a huge volume change. I'll check the connections again, but did you guys find similar issue before?
Firsth thing. At the rush sight of the schematic I noticed that the 1k resistor after the tone pot is missing, I'm don't know why nor how much it could be change something in the sound.
About you volume issue. Could be a simple mistake right in the volume pot connection. Anything else works ok? Are the other pots fine? You have to be sure that the lug 1 is connected to the ground, because your problem is you can't attenuate the volume. If the connection is ok, check with the multimeter if it works properly.
This does it all from smooth overdrive to crushing fuzz mayhem. I honestly didn't expect that and built it just out of curiosity. It also cleans up beautifully with the volume knob on my guitar. No need for a Fuzz Face anymore :-D
This does it all from smooth overdrive to crushing fuzzy mayhem. It also cleans up beautifully with my guitars volume knob. I honestly didn't expect that but there's no need for a fuzz face anymore :-D
Verified! Ended up with 680pf for C1, 1N5817 for D4 and 1N4001 for D3. Used a 2P6T and adjusted the washer to get five nodes. Sounds awesome. Thanks Alex and Nocentelli.
ReplyDeleteCool!
DeleteThanks Gavin!
680pf for C1 - Brian Madbean confirmed this.... Didn't say if the rest was correct, though.
ReplyDeleteOn the right side of the board, you have a resistor marked "CLR", which I'm guessing means "Current Limiting Resistor". What value did you use for this resistor?
ReplyDeleteI prefer a 4k7, but if you want horribly bright you can drop to 2k2 or 1k.
ReplyDeleteArrgh! Now that I've actually LOOKED at the circuit, I see this is going to the LED. I'm used to soldering that resistor off-board, directly to the LED. My bad... and thanks for your quick reply!
DeleteHello
ReplyDeleteJe ne trouve pas de 1P5T switch .auriez vous un lien ou acheter et peut être une référence.Merci pour votre travail.
Vous pouvez acheter un 1P12T ou 2P6T et le limiter à seulement cinq positions (S'il vous plaît pardonner mon "google français")
ReplyDeleteAh merci et encore excellent travail de votre part .
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteIf I have to chose a basic two way clipping, I will like to change from, None/fet/led option, I will need to leave diodes from D1 to D4 right?
ReplyDeleteActually I found the schematic on the first link, my question has been answered, by the way, another replacement for MPSA13? a low HFE NPN is ok?
ReplyDeleteMPSA13 is a darlington transistor, which have very high HFE (min around 10 000). I would try a similar darlington transistor (maybe MPSA12, MPSA14, MPSA26, 2N5306, 2N5308, 2N6427, or others).
DeleteOr just two low hfe npn transistors in Darlington set :)
DeleteHello! I'm still confused about the 1P5T switch:
ReplyDelete1) the 1P5T switch has 6 nodes - the signal IN node, and 5 OUTPUT nodes. The board shows connections out to "A, 2, 3, 4, and 5" - does "A" represent the IN node, and does that mean "1" is left unconnected? Or is there another point on the board leading to the switch that hasn't been marked?
2) Gavin - you "used a 2P6T and adjusted the washer to get five nodes". Can you go in to more detail on how you did this?
3) Where can you purchase this switch - are they all in the $8-$10 range?
1) Pin 1 is not connected.
Delete2) The washer is inserted in one of the top holes to stop rotating at any point you waant. In this case you want it to rotate up to the 5th pin.
3) They are much cheaper than that!
You could use these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1x1-Pole-12-Position-PANEL-PCB-Wiring-Rotary-Switch-1P12T-YG-/122043341332?hash=item1c6a599a14:g:NREAAOSwyKxXhLe9
or these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1x2-Pole-6-Position-PANEL-PCB-Wiring-Rotary-Switch-2P6T-YG-/112084022288?hash=item1a18ba7410:g:tGMAAOSw7s5XhLfg
Did anyone make a parts list or a link to buy them?
ReplyDeleteThank you for this great layout. It's a fun fuzz. A bit trebby for my amp but very interesting. Pics of the build.
ReplyDeletehttp://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/9520625/20170202_140834.jpg
http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/9520625/20170202_140803.jpg
I love that Andy drops some "Witch" around 3 mins in the demo video!
ReplyDeleteHello
ReplyDelete.Fini le véroboard mais apparement j'ai un problèmes de leds rouge (HS).Quelle diode pourrait remplacer ces deux leds?. Merci pour vos lumières.
Bye
Les LED rouges ont une tension directe de 1,8 à 2V, orange, jaune ou vert vert sont similaires. Évitez le bleu ou le blanc qui sont beaucoup plus élevés. Si vous n'avez pas de LED, deux ou trois paires 1N4148 / 1N914 en série vous donneront un son similaire.
ReplyDeleteRed LEDs have a forward voltage of 1.8 to 2v, orange, yellow or green green are similar. Avoid blue or white which are much higher. If you have no LEDs, two or three 1N4148/1N914 pairs in series will give you a similar sound
Merci beaucoup et a très bientôt.Bye
ReplyDeleteWorks great. Keep up the good work !
ReplyDeleteHi - thought I'd share some pictures of my build:
ReplyDeletehttps://www.dropbox.com/s/g5zjo1r00wveqgh/2017-03-08%2015.01.20.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/tr86a8dnz61z0vj/2017-03-07%2020.04.18.jpg?dl=0
Also I have a question. As I turn the clipping selection switch, it works pretty much as I would expect, but the two silicon selections gives me a jump in output level. Is this a feature or have I made a mistake somewhere?
Do you have a drilling template?
DeleteSomeone on the forum noted a problem with the switch connections. I have updated my wiring as per labeling on the pedal:
ReplyDeleteNONE
LED
FET
Si1
Si2
That gives me the following connections
Switch 1 - A: As in layout
Switch 1 - 1: No connection
Switch 1 - 2: 5mm LEDs
Switch 1 - 3: 2n7000
Switch 1 - 4: 1n4148
Switch 1 - 5: BAT41
Works perfectly now.
Do you by any chance have a drilling template for this pedal?
DeleteJust built this. Fired up right away. Very versatile pedal. Have a 2p6t so I added a pair of germanium diodes to the sixth pole. A bit unnecessary but I recently got a big batch of Russian d9e diodes.
ReplyDeleteHow is it with germs? I am in a similar situation.
DeleteIts pretty good with the germaniums. Not all that different from the schottky diodes but a little less output. It gets pretty nasty with fuzz and 8 bit cranked
ReplyDeleteAlright, sounds good. I might socket them so I can try different ones in that position.
ReplyDeleteMy 8-bit knob doesn't make an audible change throughout it's sweep.... everything else seems to work great! Any ideas what could be messing with it?
ReplyDeleteHello, guys. I've recently built this fuzz pedal, however my volume pot is not behaving as I expected. There's significant volume increase when activating the pedal even with the pot set to 0 and when I increase, there's not a huge volume change. I'll check the connections again, but did you guys find similar issue before?
ReplyDeleteFirsth thing. At the rush sight of the schematic I noticed that the 1k resistor after the tone pot is missing, I'm don't know why nor how much it could be change something in the sound.
DeleteAbout you volume issue. Could be a simple mistake right in the volume pot connection. Anything else works ok? Are the other pots fine?
You have to be sure that the lug 1 is connected to the ground, because your problem is you can't attenuate the volume.
If the connection is ok, check with the multimeter if it works properly.
This does it all from smooth overdrive to crushing fuzz mayhem. I honestly didn't expect that and built it just out of curiosity. It also cleans up beautifully with the volume knob on my guitar. No need for a Fuzz Face anymore :-D
ReplyDeleteThanks for the layout. You guys are great!
This does it all from smooth overdrive to crushing fuzzy mayhem. It also cleans up beautifully with my guitars volume knob. I honestly didn't expect that but there's no need for a fuzz face anymore :-D
ReplyDeleteThanks for the layout. You guys are great!