Here's a collection of vero (stripboard) and tagboard guitar and bass effect layouts that we have put together covering many classic and popular effects in growing numbers. Many of these have been posted on freestompboxes.org, so check that site out for great discussions on building your own effect pedals. Enjoy the builds and please also visit us on Facebook and Twitter
Madbean's great new project based on Earthquaker Devices Sea Machine.
Original infos available here.
17/07/2016 Layout updated!
Changed 33n cap to 3n3 and 10k resistor from PT2399's pin 14 back to 1K.
Have you already built this layout? That would be very quick. The 2 rows link next to LM324 pin 7 needs to go up one row (between 6 & 7). Already changed that.
Now it sounds like a modular synth. Clicking and popping to the rate of the lfo with some space sounds mixed in as I twist the other pots. No dry signal passes. Just crazy loud bleeps.
I built a second board. This time it is working normally except for the Dimension pot. If I turn that past about 10% it starts motorboating. The pedal sounds good otherwise and I may just run the Dimension 2 wire to ground to take that pot out of the picture, but maybe you guys can figure out a solution. Can you post the link to the schematic?
now that we have a second one, i guess it's the schem...too bad...
mmm...after all Brian wrote: "Important Note: These projects are generally unverified. Some are based on previously available projects at madbeanpedals and some are completely new and have never been built. Keep this in mind before you decide to build them; there is no garuantee that they will work. When projects are verified by builders, I will update their status.
i think you guys should sent him a link of this post, for him to know that there is a problem
I'm now confused. Selfdestroyer has verified the schematic on Madbean's forum. Didn't mention anything about any Dim pot problems. http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=21888.msg215363;boardseen#new Do you have the same voltages?
Built mine up and it worked first time... except for the dim pot. Exactly the same problem, past about 10o'clock it just whines and self oscillates. Looks like ciaran was bang on though, 10k and a 1uf from the dim 3 to pin 6 of the bottom right tl072 and there's a lot more play in the dim pot. Still oscillates past noon but it's a start, it needs a more involved fix than I have time for tonight, hopefully someone else can run with it.
Layout is bang on to the schem, it looks like the schem is wrong, or at least incomplete.
I found that using a 50k lin pot with a 18K resistor in place of the 8.2K on lug 2 as Ciaran has already mentioned greatly improves the Dim control and the reverb increases. Even with this mod if you go past 80% on the Dim pot you get loud whining so it would be nice to get rid of it altogether....any other suggestions?
I've been reading Madbeampedals forum and some are having the same problem and some say it's verified???? This needs a definite fix . I would really like to get this one nailed as it is such a good chorus otherwise..so any help would be greatly appreciated?
All mods done, 10k>1uf pin 2 opamp to Dim 3 row plus 5k Dim pot changed to 50K pot but I had to use a 120k resistor in place of the 8k2 to make the Dim work properly. Now the dim pot has no whining or motor boating and gives slight reverb and slapback as I believe it should. Great pedal, very pleased...thanks to you Ciaran.
I try to make this chenges to (except 100k resistor in place of the 8k2), but it not work properly. Dim pot not work - no chenges in sound... No more reverb. May be another way to solve the problem of DIM pot?
Maxim, you may have some other issue with your board. I just build one with 10K from IC pin2 to Dim 3 row, dim pot as 50K and 120K in place of 8K2. Works and is almost ok. The Dim seems to act as a feedback.
I think Depth is in reverse. And B1M gave me way better LFO speed control than C1M.
So yes. The schematic has an issue that needs to be addressed, before it (and this layout) can be called verified. Layout itself is true work of beauty, as Alex's work tends to be. +m
Wow. Lot's of DIM driven issues. Is this really verified? I want to build it but don't have the mental juice to modify anything. I understand "solder ,a, to ,b," etc....can I trust the pix as posted above?
After talking with Brian I decided to replace all the changes I made 50k back to 5k pot, 120k to 8k2 R10 and removed the link 10k resistor and 1uf pot.. Curiosity got the better of me!!!
So back to square 1 and the whining is back as it was to begin with. I then changed the 1k R9 to a 10K and the whining stopped but the reverb was weak so I also changed the 33K R7/8 resistors to 10k each and that seemed to increased the reverb. I think now it is exactly the same as the video demo. So with these changes I'd consider this Verified!
Great Bill! Scruffie from Madbean's forum has suggested that just reducing the 330n cap to 33n would have the same effect without having to change the resistors values. If anyone wants to try that first and report the results, that would be great! I'll update the layout then.
Second everything discussed above. Took my board and removed the extra 10K, put the 8K2 back with B5K pot, swapped the 330n to 33n and 1K to 10K. With previous fixes, this sounded like "meh". Now it sounds like "cool".
Cheers to Bill and Alex. And to Brian as well... +m
hi guys, thx for the lovely layout! I made this one yesterday. it works fine except for the Rate knob. the minimum Rate level is bit faster than the Original Sea machine's minimum speed on youtube. when I turn up the knob fully, it sounds like a machine gun :S does your Gravity wave work like that? I can use it only half way up so if there is good suggestion, plz!
hello guys... I found the solution. change 33nf cap (madbean schematic, name=C9) to 3.3nf and rechange resistor 10k (madbean schematic, name=R9) to 1k. older i have the original sea machine pedal and take more photos and i sea that is cap (C9) is 3,3nf.... The dim pot responds perfect with 3.3nf and 1k . check it!
Just built mine using the layout provided and then with Chris Ver's tweaks... definitely much better. I used a 4.7nf in place on the 3.3nf but the dimension pot in very usable now.
Im getting low voltages on pin 13 and 14 of IC2 and no effect with the dimm pot, i see you changed the cap connected to those pins, can i use electrolytic and if i can whats the orientation?
Very sorry for the late reply, i used 4.7uf but i find better better results with 1uf, it's a matter of taste i guess. After 6 months of sweat and blood it finally worked after throwing all in trash can and do it all again, i see alot of people having trouble with this build, i can blame the pt2399, i dont know why but i still had to use several ic's before getting a good sound. I want to thank everybody for the support and making such a good community. Sorry for the bad english
I built the updated layout, but I can only hear the clean guitar signal coming through it. The rate LED works as expected, when I use the pots (rate is changing, shape is changing - rate led looking good). I triple checked the components, and checked the cuts twice, so far I haven't found a short. There must be something else, but I couldn't find it.
A double link means that you'll have 2 links in 1 hole. So for instance if you look at the board under the lm324 you have a link that spans from pin 12 to pin 10, then another one from pin 1 to just under the ic.
I just finished this layout and I get crystal clear signal with the effect turned on. However there is barely any effect. When I turn the rate up the LED rate goes up but then when I try to dial in any other tones it starts motorboating. Any suggestions on what the cause might be? I changed out the PT2399 with others as well as the voltage regulators. Even swapped the TL072's. Same result.
Hi there, i've the same trouble with my seamachine. Did you solve your problem? Suggestions are welcome. :) I think the TL072's are quite ok, i've measured them a few days ago.
Hello having mild issues. Please help! Ok fully built and works perfectly other than im getting a crackle or clipping sound durrung initial attack. Its getting to hot of signal? I used all exact parts with 1% tolerance as shown on current layout as far as i can recal. Any help please?
Hello, I think i found an error in the vero schematic. The two 100n capacitors, in the bottom part of the schematic (oh the bottom right side of the pt2399) are drawed in red, probably indicating that they should be ceramic? But in the madbeans schematic they are marked as film capacitors, just like the other 100n or 470n capacitors.
Built this over the Easter weekend and bless me if it didn't fire up straight away and sound awesome. I might fiddle with some mods before I box it; so far I've found I like it with the Dim pot completely disconnected so I'll probably add a switch for that (maybe a momentary footswitch so I can send it into oscillation at will...)
Hello, i hear some ticking even with the pedal off. could it be the rate led? i connected the cathode leg of the rate led to the switch, so it only lights when the pedal is on.
Or maybe i've got to long wires or is it something else?
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I'm currently having issues, where when i first plug in power, the rate led lights up, but turns off again very quickly. After the led goes off I'm getting delay from the dimension and animate pots but nothing else. I've checked for solder bridges, that all the ics are getting power and all the components i think are placed correctly. Anyone have any ideas? Even if someone could post the correct voltages that would be a great help.
I must be losing my mind because people are saying on here they are getting this layout to work, but the layout is incorrect. Well at least according to the schematic from Mad Bean. Mainly with pins 2/3/5 on the first TL072 (IC1 at the top of layout) and pin 3 on the second TL072 (IC4 on bottom). Everything is there, just needed to be reconfigured to match the schematic.
The channels on dual opamps are interchangeable. There's absolutely no reason why one can't use another channel instead. So the input of the input buffer is still going to non-inverting input of the opmap half (pin 5). And the vrefs are where they are supposed to be. So no. The layout in correct. IC channels do not matter.
Question, maybe people on here can help me understand: What does the Animate do differently than the Intensity? Theres a huge difference in sound, but from the schema it almost seems like it just adjusts the depth of the LFO applied to the PT2399 mod pin... which is what Intensity already does?! What makes the difference, what does it achieve PHYSICALLY here?
(I own a Sea Machine, interested in building a copy of it, I have.. moderate DIY circuitry experience)
P.S. I read most of 'the Digital Delay Cookbook' and yes I do notice the different R-values, they probably make all the difference here, but still.. I can't picture it in my head.
I built this pedal and it seems to work nicely, except that there's a loud pop whenever I switch it on or off. I guess this isn't normal? The 1M pulldown resistor is in place and properly connected to ground. Any ideas where I could look to fix this problem?
Have you tried to let the board on when foot pedal switch is turned off? I'm from Brazil and the 3 way foot switch is expensive here, so I use a 2-way, audio in I have to make a double connection on the board audio in and to the switch pin1_1 audio in, pin1_2 audio out, pin1_3 board audio out pin2_1 not connected, pin2_2 Led_on (cathode), pin2_3 GND
Cannot get Rate to work at all. Basically I have a very nice reverb at this point, the Rate LED is either all the way off, or all the way on, it never blinks regardless of what I have the pot set to. all other pots seem to work, I've been over the board for shorts, bad solder joints, swapped LM324s, swapped PT2399s I'm fixin to pull a couple of the caps in the rate circuit and see if they are damaged. this is drving me nuts!
You can't imagine how happy I was to find the exact fix the the exact issue I was having. That 4k7 just doesn't work. Replaced with the 47k and everything works. Good work fixing that for us.
Soo, this is on my board for quite some time now and I finally decided to adress the "rate" problem today. Did a little snooping in madbean's forums and replaced the 470n cap (C30 in the schem) to a 4u7 electro (anode to pin 14). Rate is now way smoother, starting from a very slow speed setting.
Hmmm my pedal freaks out after a few sec of playing. When I flip the 7805, 180 degrees, the pedal seems to work correctly. How can that be?, can anyone help me out, thx!
Figured it out, the transistor socket was dodgy. It's working now. I do have some doubts about the depth control, the depth control introduces verb/echo to my sound while it should only control the depth right?
Guys i think u should check lm 324 pins 12,13,14 . Its diff from the schematics.that 10k res should be in pin 13 and not on 12. Alongside wt that .47 cap. More power!
Guys take a look at lm 325 pin 12,13,14 . The 10k res connected to rate lug2 should be connected to pin 13 and not to 12 alongside with 470 nf cap. And the link that connect pin 12 and 13 should be remove base on the schem. Jun fr philippines.
Built this as per the layout and it's great, really trippy. I ended swapping the 470nf for a 4.7nf electrolytic and the rate has more range. Thanks for the layout.
Can anyone help? I've built this unit 3 times successfully in the past. I'm now trying to build another for a coworker.
It sounds and works perfectly other than I hear a rate click when the unit is off!!!
I've now made the same board twice, changed out all chips, tried 4 different bypass wiring setups. I am at a total loss 😭. Any ideas of faulty parts ect? Like I sed 2 diff boards, same issue.
Can anyone help? I've built this unit twice successfully years ago. I'm now trying to build another for a coworker.
It sounds and works perfectly other than I hear a rate click when the unit is off!!!
I've now made the same board twice, changed out all chips, tried 4 different bypass wiring setups. I am at a total loss 😭. Any ideas of faulty parts ect? Like I sed 2 diff boards, same issue.
I put this one together. I am getting crazy oscillation and feedback. We need to double check the layout.
ReplyDeleteHave you already built this layout?
DeleteThat would be very quick.
The 2 rows link next to LM324 pin 7 needs to go up one row (between 6 & 7).
Already changed that.
Hell yes. Can't wait to build this. Thanks buddy!
DeleteNow it sounds like a modular synth. Clicking and popping to the rate of the lfo with some space sounds mixed in as I twist the other pots. No dry signal passes. Just crazy loud bleeps.
DeleteHave you swapped out the PT2399?
DeleteLayout is correct.
ReplyDeleteThere is either a problem with your build or the schematic.
Have you double checked everything?
What voltages do you have?
Have you built it yet?
DeleteNo, I haven't.
ReplyDeleteUnfortunately I won't be able to build anything for a few weeks.
I built a second board. This time it is working normally except for the Dimension pot. If I turn that past about 10% it starts motorboating. The pedal sounds good otherwise and I may just run the Dimension 2 wire to ground to take that pot out of the picture, but maybe you guys can figure out a solution. Can you post the link to the schematic?
ReplyDeletehttp://www.madbeanpedals.com/EP/schematics/GravityWave.gif
Deletei've also checked the layout and i'm 99% sure it's OK.
i have the same problem at DIM pot... this schematic maybe had wrong
Deletenow that we have a second one, i guess it's the schem...too bad...
Deletemmm...after all Brian wrote:
"Important Note: These projects are generally unverified. Some are based on previously available projects at madbeanpedals and some are completely new and have never been built. Keep this in mind before you decide to build them; there is no garuantee that they will work. When projects are verified by builders, I will update their status.
i think you guys should sent him a link of this post, for him to know that there is a problem
This comment has been removed by the author.
Deletethat's great info Ciaran!
Deletei hope onthetundra or Chris will read this and try those changes and post their results.
i'll try this build myself too, but it will take some time cause i have so many things on my list!!!
i'm working on a diy cnc machine right now!!
I'm now confused.
DeleteSelfdestroyer has verified the schematic on Madbean's forum.
Didn't mention anything about any Dim pot problems.
http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=21888.msg215363;boardseen#new
Do you have the same voltages?
Yea it looks good. I wonder why the dimesion pot is acting up?
ReplyDeleteBuilt mine up and it worked first time... except for the dim pot. Exactly the same problem, past about 10o'clock it just whines and self oscillates. Looks like ciaran was bang on though, 10k and a 1uf from the dim 3 to pin 6 of the bottom right tl072 and there's a lot more play in the dim pot. Still oscillates past noon but it's a start, it needs a more involved fix than I have time for tonight, hopefully someone else can run with it.
ReplyDeleteLayout is bang on to the schem, it looks like the schem is wrong, or at least incomplete.
Dim pot seriously needs sorting otherwise brilliant
ReplyDeleteI found that using a 50k lin pot with a 18K resistor in place of the 8.2K on lug 2 as Ciaran has already mentioned greatly improves the Dim control and the reverb increases. Even with this mod if you go past 80% on the Dim pot you get loud whining so it would be nice to get rid of it altogether....any other suggestions?
ReplyDeleteI've been reading Madbeampedals forum and some are having the same problem and some say it's verified???? This needs a definite fix . I would really like to get this one nailed as it is such a good chorus otherwise..so any help would be greatly appreciated?
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
DeleteHi Ciaran, I will try tomorrow and report back... many thanks
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteAll mods done, 10k>1uf pin 2 opamp to Dim 3 row plus 5k Dim pot changed to 50K pot but I had to use a 120k resistor in place of the 8k2 to make the Dim work properly. Now the dim pot has no whining or motor boating and gives slight reverb and slapback as I believe it should. Great pedal, very pleased...thanks to you Ciaran.
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
DeleteI try to make this chenges to (except 100k resistor in place of the 8k2), but it not work properly. Dim pot not work - no chenges in sound... No more reverb. May be another way to solve the problem of DIM pot?
DeleteHave you tried just increasing the value of the 1K resistor from PT2399's pin 14?
DeleteMaybe to 10K?
Maxim, you may have some other issue with your board. I just build one with 10K from IC pin2 to Dim 3 row, dim pot as 50K and 120K in place of 8K2. Works and is almost ok. The Dim seems to act as a feedback.
DeleteI think Depth is in reverse. And B1M gave me way better LFO speed control than C1M.
So yes. The schematic has an issue that needs to be addressed, before it (and this layout) can be called verified. Layout itself is true work of beauty, as Alex's work tends to be.
+m
Thanks Miro!
DeleteHopefully the problem will get sorted out.
Wow. Lot's of DIM driven issues. Is this really verified? I want to build it but don't have the mental juice to modify anything. I understand "solder ,a, to ,b," etc....can I trust the pix as posted above?
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
Deletewe expect!!! 8)
DeleteAfter talking with Brian I decided to replace all the changes I made 50k back to 5k pot, 120k to 8k2 R10 and removed the link 10k resistor and 1uf pot.. Curiosity got the better of me!!!
ReplyDeleteSo back to square 1 and the whining is back as it was to begin with. I then changed the 1k R9 to a 10K and the whining stopped but the reverb was weak so I also changed the 33K R7/8 resistors to 10k each and that seemed to increased the reverb. I think now it is exactly the same as the video demo. So with these changes I'd consider this Verified!
I will try it today, thanks for advice, Bill.
DeleteGreat Bill!
DeleteScruffie from Madbean's forum has suggested that just reducing the 330n cap to 33n would have the same effect without having to change the resistors values.
If anyone wants to try that first and report the results, that would be great! I'll update the layout then.
I've now boxed it and am a happy bunny!
ReplyDeleteHmmm that makes a lot of sense!
ReplyDeleteOk I put it all but again! Changed the 330n cap to 33n but it still whines BUT put the 10K resistor back on R9 and it works I think even better.
ReplyDeleteSo to recap change R9 to 10k and the 330n cap to 33n leave everything else as is and it really works well.
I'll rebox it now unless.........
Thinking about just take the 0 from the C9 and put it on R9!!
ReplyDeleteCool! Thanks Bill!
DeleteSecond everything discussed above. Took my board and removed the extra 10K, put the 8K2 back with B5K pot, swapped the 330n to 33n and 1K to 10K. With previous fixes, this sounded like "meh". Now it sounds like "cool".
DeleteCheers to Bill and Alex. And to Brian as well...
+m
Again I humbly ask. If I build this as shown on the above layout is it going to work....if I don't F$%K it up!
ReplyDeleteHi Jeff.
ReplyDeleteGo for it.
Different people built it and it seems to work as it should.
Comments deleted to avoid confusion. Cheers lads
ReplyDeletehi guys, thx for the lovely layout!
ReplyDeleteI made this one yesterday.
it works fine except for the Rate knob.
the minimum Rate level is bit faster than the Original Sea machine's minimum speed on youtube.
when I turn up the knob fully, it sounds like a machine gun :S
does your Gravity wave work like that?
I can use it only half way up so if there is good suggestion, plz!
Someone on the Madbean forum brought that point up and apparently you can use a 1uf Non Polarised cap for C20....that should solve your problem
ReplyDeletethx bro!
DeleteOkay, I changed C20 to 4.7uF then satisfied.
ReplyDeletethx guys!
https://youtu.be/Dy4q9Sd-29k
This comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteWell done..... I used a 4.7uf + side to pin 12 of LM324 much better thanks Sho
ReplyDeleteI built one, work fine but for dim pot don't work like that dim of youtube sea machine... expression of sea machine pot (dim) is more expresionly!
ReplyDeletehello guys... I found the solution. change 33nf cap (madbean schematic, name=C9) to 3.3nf and rechange resistor 10k (madbean schematic, name=R9) to 1k. older i have the original sea machine pedal and take more photos and i sea that is cap (C9) is 3,3nf.... The dim pot responds perfect with 3.3nf and 1k . check it!
DeleteThanks Chris (and Jim)!
DeleteLayout updated.
Just built mine using the layout provided and then with Chris Ver's tweaks... definitely much better. I used a 4.7nf in place on the 3.3nf but the dimension pot in very usable now.
ReplyDeleteI changed C9 to 3.3nf and R9 to 1k.
ReplyDeletealso C4 to 4.7uf.
now it works quite perfect :DDD
https://youtu.be/wM8ZjZHszbA
Im getting low voltages on pin 13 and 14 of IC2 and no effect with the dimm pot, i see you changed the cap connected to those pins, can i use electrolytic and if i can whats the orientation?
DeleteI used a 4.7uf + side to pin 12 of LM324....does that help?
ReplyDeleteVery sorry for the late reply, i used 4.7uf but i find better better results with 1uf, it's a matter of taste i guess. After 6 months of sweat and blood it finally worked after throwing all in trash can and do it all again, i see alot of people having trouble with this build, i can blame the pt2399, i dont know why but i still had to use several ic's before getting a good sound. I want to thank everybody for the support and making such a good community. Sorry for the bad english
DeleteHey guys, I would like to ask for some help.
ReplyDeleteI built the updated layout, but I can only hear the clean guitar signal coming through it.
The rate LED works as expected, when I use the pots (rate is changing, shape is changing - rate led looking good). I triple checked the components, and checked the cuts twice, so far I haven't found a short. There must be something else, but I couldn't find it.
oh and I wanted to mention, that I had only some 78L05 around, so I used one instead of the 7805, but this shouldn't be a problem I think.
DeleteNevermind! I totally missed the triple link on the left. Works like a charm, awesome pedal! I cannot thank you enough.
DeleteWhere does the other end of the LED connect to? I've seen the LED+ on several layouts now and it confuses me.
ReplyDeleteThe LED+ on Layouts goes to the Anode(long leg)on the led, and the Cathode (short leg) goes to the ground row on your switch.
DeleteWhat are the blue dots on the leader line under the LM324 and on the lead on the LH side of the 2399 represent? Haven't seen that before.
ReplyDeleteThey are double links.
ReplyDeleteHmm. Double links? Not sure if I understand what that means exactly.
DeleteA double link means that you'll have 2 links in 1 hole. So for instance if you look at the board under the lm324 you have a link that spans from pin 12 to pin 10, then another one from pin 1 to just under the ic.
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteI just finished this layout and I get crystal clear signal with the effect turned on. However there is barely any effect. When I turn the rate up the LED rate goes up but then when I try to dial in any other tones it starts motorboating. Any suggestions on what the cause might be? I changed out the PT2399 with others as well as the voltage regulators. Even swapped the TL072's. Same result.
ReplyDeleteHi there, i've the same trouble with my seamachine. Did you solve your problem? Suggestions are welcome. :)
DeleteI think the TL072's are quite ok, i've measured them a few days ago.
This comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteHello. Does anyone have pictures of this boxed up?
ReplyDeleteAlso, what led are you using for the rate? 3mm? Does it also need a 4.7k resistor with it? Thanks
Hello having mild issues. Please help! Ok fully built and works perfectly other than im getting a crackle or clipping sound durrung initial attack. Its getting to hot of signal? I used all exact parts with 1% tolerance as shown on current layout as far as i can recal. Any help please?
ReplyDeleteplease any suggestions!
ReplyDeleteHello,
ReplyDeleteI think i found an error in the vero schematic.
The two 100n capacitors, in the bottom part of the schematic (oh the bottom right side of the pt2399) are drawed in red, probably indicating that they should be ceramic? But in the madbeans schematic they are marked as film capacitors, just like the other 100n or 470n capacitors.
It's important to read carefully because those are 470pf and 100nf. The difference between 470pf and 470nf is huge
ReplyDeleteYou can use whatever type of caps you want. It's DIY so you choose
Ok.i was just confused because of the colours, but i ordered the correct values. Thanks
DeleteAnyone have any suggestions as to why im getting clipping at the initial attack?
ReplyDeleteHello, where does the rate Les negative goes to? To the ground row on the switch or to the board ground?
ReplyDeleteThanks
*rate led negative
DeleteLED negative goes to stomp switch lug 1 if your following the offboard wiring.
DeleteHello, both LEDs? Thanks
Deletehello,i' using the layout in here
Deletehttps://tagboardeffects.blogspot.pt/2012/02/offboard-wiring.html
but with the pedal off, the main led should be off but its slightly on, and it blinks in the rate speed.
also, if i touch with one of the jacks in the enclosure, the pedal stops working...
i connected both negative wires from the leds to the ground in the footswitch, what have i done wrong?
thanks
Built this over the Easter weekend and bless me if it didn't fire up straight away and sound awesome. I might fiddle with some mods before I box it; so far I've found I like it with the Dim pot completely disconnected so I'll probably add a switch for that (maybe a momentary footswitch so I can send it into oscillation at will...)
ReplyDeleteThanks as always for this amazing site!
Hello, i hear some ticking even with the pedal off.
ReplyDeletecould it be the rate led? i connected the cathode leg of the rate led to the switch, so it only lights when the pedal is on.
Or maybe i've got to long wires or is it something else?
Hi
DeleteSame here. Ticking is as an issue found in sea machine v1, since it's lfo is not isolated. People say that EQD have fixed ticking in v.2
Thanks again for the layout, it sound great
ReplyDeletehttps://youtu.be/1jygUfeRNMw
Completed as per layout, fired up first time, sounds just like the demos. Thanks for the layout!
ReplyDeleteMe too! Sounds fantastic
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ReplyDeleterosin press machine
Uuhhhh....
DeleteDoes it, like... build kick ass Earthquaker Devices pedals... or, you know, just like press stuff...?
Asking for a "friend"...
I'm currently having issues, where when i first plug in power, the rate led lights up, but turns off again very quickly. After the led goes off I'm getting delay from the dimension and animate pots but nothing else. I've checked for solder bridges, that all the ics are getting power and all the components i think are placed correctly. Anyone have any ideas? Even if someone could post the correct voltages that would be a great help.
ReplyDeleteI must be losing my mind because people are saying on here they are getting this layout to work, but the layout is incorrect. Well at least according to the schematic from Mad Bean. Mainly with pins 2/3/5 on the first TL072 (IC1 at the top of layout) and pin 3 on the second TL072 (IC4 on bottom). Everything is there, just needed to be reconfigured to match the schematic.
ReplyDeleteMmmm. No.
DeleteThe channels on dual opamps are interchangeable. There's absolutely no reason why one can't use another channel instead. So the input of the input buffer is still going to non-inverting input of the opmap half (pin 5). And the vrefs are where they are supposed to be. So no. The layout in correct. IC channels do not matter.
Built this myself and it definitely works.
+m
Ahh.. that's what's happening... Quite obvious now that it is highlighted.. Ok Ok.. I'm losing my mind. Thanks for the confirmation and reply :-)
DeleteI think I'll Try this one. After the DBD this would be aperfect match for the synth.
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteQuestion, maybe people on here can help me understand:
ReplyDeleteWhat does the Animate do differently than the Intensity?
Theres a huge difference in sound, but from the schema it almost seems like it just adjusts the depth of the LFO applied to the PT2399 mod pin... which is what Intensity already does?! What makes the difference, what does it achieve PHYSICALLY here?
(I own a Sea Machine, interested in building a copy of it, I have.. moderate DIY circuitry experience)
P.S. I read most of 'the Digital Delay Cookbook' and yes I do notice the different R-values, they probably make all the difference here, but still.. I can't picture it in my head.
ReplyDeleteI built this pedal and it seems to work nicely, except that there's a loud pop whenever I switch it on or off. I guess this isn't normal? The 1M pulldown resistor is in place and properly connected to ground. Any ideas where I could look to fix this problem?
ReplyDeleteHave you tried to let the board on when foot pedal switch is turned off? I'm from Brazil and the 3 way foot switch is expensive here, so I use a 2-way, audio in I have to make a double connection on the board audio in and to the switch
Deletepin1_1 audio in, pin1_2 audio out, pin1_3 board audio out
pin2_1 not connected, pin2_2 Led_on (cathode), pin2_3 GND
Cannot get Rate to work at all. Basically I have a very nice reverb at this point, the Rate LED is either all the way off, or all the way on, it never blinks regardless of what I have the pot set to. all other pots seem to work, I've been over the board for shorts, bad solder joints, swapped LM324s, swapped PT2399s I'm fixin to pull a couple of the caps in the rate circuit and see if they are damaged. this is drving me nuts!
ReplyDeletethe 47k resistor between 1 and 3 of lm324... yeah.. I had a 4k7 in there.. now all works well!!
DeleteYou can't imagine how happy I was to find the exact fix the the exact issue I was having. That 4k7 just doesn't work. Replaced with the 47k and everything works. Good work fixing that for us.
DeleteSoo, this is on my board for quite some time now and I finally decided to adress the "rate" problem today. Did a little snooping in madbean's forums and replaced the 470n cap (C30 in the schem) to a 4u7 electro (anode to pin 14). Rate is now way smoother, starting from a very slow speed setting.
ReplyDeleteGood call, ZanBon. That fixes the fast rate issue.
DeleteCan I use a TL0x4 instead of a LM324?
ReplyDeleteHmmm my pedal freaks out after a few sec of playing. When I flip the 7805, 180 degrees, the pedal seems to work correctly. How can that be?, can anyone help me out, thx!
ReplyDeleteFigured it out, the transistor socket was dodgy. It's working now. I do have some doubts about the depth control, the depth control introduces verb/echo to my sound while it should only control the depth right?
DeleteGot it 100% working now, didn't solder the groundwire properly :S
DeleteGuys i think u should check lm 324 pins 12,13,14 . Its diff from the schematics.that 10k res should be in pin 13 and not on 12. Alongside wt that .47 cap. More power!
ReplyDeleteGuys take a look at lm 325 pin 12,13,14 . The 10k res connected to rate lug2 should be connected to pin 13 and not to 12 alongside with 470 nf cap. And the link that connect pin 12 and 13 should be remove base on the schem. Jun fr philippines.
ReplyDeleteI think this guy is right:
ReplyDeleteI think Unknown and Unknown are wrong. Sorry but the layout is correct and verified.
ReplyDeleteMy apology i did not noticed the cut under 10 k res beside pin 12 of lm 324.
ReplyDeleteBuilt this as per the layout and it's great, really trippy. I ended swapping the 470nf for a 4.7nf electrolytic and the rate has more range. Thanks for the layout.
ReplyDeleteCan anyone help? I've built this unit 3 times successfully in the past. I'm now trying to build another for a coworker.
DeleteIt sounds and works perfectly other than I hear a rate click when the unit is off!!!
I've now made the same board twice, changed out all chips, tried 4 different bypass wiring setups. I am at a total loss 😭. Any ideas of faulty parts ect? Like I sed 2 diff boards, same issue.
Can anyone help? I've built this unit twice successfully years ago. I'm now trying to build another for a coworker.
ReplyDeleteIt sounds and works perfectly other than I hear a rate click when the unit is off!!!
I've now made the same board twice, changed out all chips, tried 4 different bypass wiring setups. I am at a total loss 😭. Any ideas of faulty parts ect? Like I sed 2 diff boards, same issue.