Sunday, 14 February 2016

Jersey Girl Fulltender

Not that common pedal up here in europe. I guess it's the same with U.S. Anyway. Somewhat interesting take on a TS/OD808/SD-1.



33 comments:

  1. same pinout with TL074. I think it's exchangeable.

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    1. As is LM324 and most other quad opamps... All three, plus TL084 should be a nice set to try on.
      +m

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    2. what is the purpose of line 6 row 11 connection? I think it is connected to a blank line.

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    3. Probably just an extra ground lane he used while drawing the layout (can be handy) it's unused though

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    4. The layout is perfectly ok though :) Built it yesterday

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    5. That's exactly what it is - extra ground lane, but a mistake. But luckily it doesn't affect anything.
      +m

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  2. Yes! Tag it! Just built it this morning, using a TL074 that was laying around. The edge switch functions as a lo/hi gain setting, I like it alot better in the hi setting, pretty sparkly and nice sounding. The bass switch does what it says. Would be interesting to mod the switches to taste. I subbed a 22nF for the 18nF. My first verification :)

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    1. Cheers! I'll tag it...

      Bottom switch could be subbed for a pot. Just replace the 33k reistor with 50k pot and you're done.
      +m

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    3. Yeah interesting! I'd remove the 10k and the 33k and just put the pot paralel to the 18nF. Maybe use a 25K pot with a 10k resistor in series.

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  3. Please add a link to the schematic!!! That should be part of every layout picture here. Many beginners start with just a layout and when they make a mistake, they realize that it's not as simple as color-by-numbers.

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    1. google is your friend,

      https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&ved=0ahUKEwiHzaLpvpvLAhVEJh4KHfTIAOwQjBwIBA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fi266.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii243%2Fkhelstrom%2FJerseyGirlFulltender.jpg&psig=AFQjCNF4DzA8lEy44MA_cJZc1JWKtP0u5w&ust=1456784341166029&cad=rjt

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    2. This has been discussed over and over. At least on 5 different occasions on separate comment threads. You may feel as butthurt as you like, but we are not able to post schematics - in many cases not even a link to a schematic.

      1. If the schematic is drawn by one of us, then it is ok for us to post it. We are not able post anyone else's artwork without infringing their copyright.

      2. Many of the schematics are behind closed websites that will require an user account. Linking to a schematic file to a forum that asks credentials is just stupid and comparable to paywalls.

      Again. Since we are able to find the schematic file - you should be able to do so too. We are not (no, none of us) part of illuminati or similar secrect society that has access to something the rest of the world hasn't.

      If you feel like a schematic is important part to add, then i suggest you redraw every single schematic we've laid out and publish them with at least CC license that allows anyone and everyone to share your work.

      And for beginners... We've written and published quite a lot of tutorials on building and debugging. How much more hand holding is required? Last time i checked, we're doing this as a hobby and thus, not getting paid. So where shall i return the zero currency units you paid me for my crappy service?

      Sorry. Didn't mean to sound this mean.. But i just don't enjoy being held accountable for not doing anything wrong.
      +m

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  4. I don't wan't to screw up my pedal but i want to throw bass and treble pots in there to be like a klamac elmo. If someone could lay that out for this vero it would be much appreciated :)

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  5. I had a PCB of a tubescreamer laying around and I made this overdrive with the normal transistor buffers (MPSA18!) and one 4558. This sounds incredible good and very, very SRV like! The original schematic has two opamp buffers, but this makes no difference in sound with transistor buffers. Did the edge mod with a 10kB pot and a 1k5 resistor. Did the bottom mod with 100kA pot and 10k in series. Extreme good sounding screamer.

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  6. hi, Should there be a resistor going to pin 5.....1 Meg bias ??
    John

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  7. Well, I have built it as per the above schematic and it works - somewhat noisy in the 'high' gain mode, but I'm going to try other IC's from the LF444.
    What would you expect the 1M bias to do? (genuine question - I'm trying to learn what the bits of a circuit actually do)

    Adam

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    1. Adam,
      The 1Meg resistor installed references the input coupling cap to ground. All ok but the +input to the opamp should have a half rail voltage (VCC/2)applied either directly or through a resistor.(In this case I believe a 1 Meg)
      Pin 5 has no resistor so the only way that the input IC can get any bias is the voltage fed back from its output back into the '-' input. I am willing to be corrected if I am wrong.
      John

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    2. Thanks for that, John. I followed what you said, even if i didnt entirely understand it!
      As it happens, im having a bit of unusual bother with my build. It sounds great (tried lf444, tl074, tl064, lf347, lm324) and the controls/switches work as indicated. But after about 1 minute, it quickly splutters and stops working. I still get a change in background hum if i adjust pots and switches, but no signal. If i leave it unplugged and switched off for a while it then starts working again.
      Any thoughts?
      I wondered if it might be a dodgy capacitor? The only 100uF i had was a 16v - but i understand that should be ok.
      Cheers

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    3. Adam,
      If you haven't installed the 1 meg resistor then the output will drift.
      I found the schemo on K Helstrom photo bucket page, second page, hand drawn on 1/4 inch graph paper. This was eluded to in a post further up the tread.
      John

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    4. John,
      Apologies for the delay in replying to you, and thanks for your assistance again. I have tried to find the schematic, but the link above no longer works, and Google hasnt been my friend.
      The 1M resistor - would it go from ground to any spare hole attached to pin 5, eg just left of the 100nF cap leg?
      I am assuming the 1M between input and ground isn't what you're talking about.
      Cheers,
      Adam

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    5. Yes, present 1meg is the input reference resistor.
      Yes, again 1meg from V/2 to pin 5.
      I simply sleeved the new 1Meg and soldered it to the bottom of the strip board, slightly raised so as not to short.
      Hope this helps.
      Schemo Photo bucket KHELSTROM
      John

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    6. Adam,
      Forgot to mention that there was some discussion and mods on the DIYstompboxs.com forum.
      John

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    7. John,
      Again, thanks for that. Regarding the photobucket link, I had searched gooogle for that, and looked over khelstroms images, but I couldnt view anything. I suspect, with hindsight, that the problem was me viewing on my mobile. I am not normally that useless at following instructions :)
      Cheers,
      Adam

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    8. John - i installed the 1meg resistor between pin 5 and ground, but this only seemed to make things worse, making the overdrive spluttet and 'fart' out. I won't give up (mostly as my 5 yr old 'designed' the enclosure), but reckon a whole new vero is in order with some more sockets to try different components.
      Again, thanks for your help.
      Adam

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    9. Adam,
      NO NOT TO GROUND, but to Vcc/2 (ie half rail voltage)
      John

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    10. Good grief, im an idiot. One of these days i'll follow simple instructions correctly (thought id read the schematic ok too). Apologies, and thanks for the patience!
      Adam

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    11. John - a quick word to say your assistance is much appreciated. Despite looking a bit messy, my vero build now works. And sounds pretty good too.
      I mis-read the schematic, thinking the downwards triangle was another ground point and not, as it should have been, to Vcc/2.
      I'll know for next time.
      Adam

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    12. Adam,
      All good.................life is for living and learning.
      Don't forget to visit the DIY forum for the Jersey discussion and mods.
      John

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  8. This comment has been removed by the author.

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    1. Use Google...

      And, on a second note, you probably have a wiring problem or a component soldered to the wrong place.

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