Into the Unknown Guitar Synthesizer Deluxe, the big brother of his 0415 Guitar Synth.
If you want more infos on this great pedal or want to buy one of Fredrik's tidy PCBs you can check his website: www.parasitstudio.se
Here is a slightly modified version to stop ticking in bypass mode.
Removed the link between pins 8 & 11 of CD4069 in the top right corner and changed the LFO switch to DPDT On-Off-On.
Connected pin 8 to the new switch lugs 4 & 6 and pin 11 to lug 5.
Thanks to Michael Oriente for his suggested mod!
You can check Comments for more details.
Whaaaaaaaaaaaat?!?!?!?!?!!!!
ReplyDeleteThat's nutts.
Wow! Freppo does it again!
ReplyDeleteThe video sounded really cool. Kinda like a PLL at times, kinda like a TGD at times, but ultimately unlike anything I've ever heard before. The theremin like sound was a fun surprise!
Thanks for this Freppo and Alex! This looks like endless fun
Nice!I just finished building the 0415 on vero,but haven't boxed it yet!
ReplyDeleteThanks for the early release to those of us on Tagboard,Freppo!
ReplyDeleteI've really been enjoying your original builds on Parasit!
Cheers!
Hey folks,
ReplyDeleteI hope you will have fun with this one! :)
Among my own creations, this is my personal favourite.
I'll try to stop by now and then for support if anyone has any questions.
Cheers / Fredrik
Lol! That's fukn nuts! Ha ha I'm gonna have to make it!
ReplyDeletesounds like every 80's arcade game all in one!
ReplyDeletethanks Fredrik! that's a great box! loved it.
ReplyDeletei just have to get some 4015 ics and turn my iron on!
and Alex..your layout is a beauty mate!
all pots and switches wires next to each other! how you always do it?!
great job!
Nice!! I'm gonna buy me some pcb's first :)
ReplyDeleteI already missed the discount code twice at Parasit Studio. So this comes right in time. Thanks for sharing Mr. bit-fuzz!
ReplyDeleteWow! this is on the to do list.
ReplyDeleteI have to put out some orders prior to building this but would encourage anyone to charge full steam ahead without question. I have built nearly all of Fredrik's original designs. He is thorough and a genius when it comes to these fantastic synthy circuits. I just wanted to show my support to a guy who gives generously to the DIY community. Thanks Fredrik
ReplyDeleteBeautiful vero, Alex. Thanks freppo for the circuit!
ReplyDeleteYes excellent all-round guys
ReplyDeleteI have a couple of newbie qustions..What the difference between yellow and red caps and which enclosure shall I use, for more comfortable PCB placing?
ReplyDeleteThank you!
By the looks of the vid it was built into a 1590BB. As for the caps, red or orange caps on vero layouts are usually used for ceramics in the pf range. But sometimes when the two legs are spaced next to each other they're also used for bigger value caps. That doesn't mean you have to use ceramics there, it's just that the image for a box cap cannot be made that small to only fit two rows.
DeleteBest rule of thumb for caps is: for everything below 1nf use ceramics, for everything from 1uf upwards use electrolytics or tantalum, (although you can use non-electrolytics for 1uf as well, it's probably even better most of the time). For anything inbetween those two valaues use either box caps, polyester caps, greenies, multi-layer ceramics, whatever of those you prefer. It will not matter much soundwise, although it will matter size wise.
Pretty sure that the demo has a 1590BB for enclosure,but I'm quite certain that it's a PCB inside. I don't think the vero would fit in that.I could be wrong on all these points though.
DeleteThe video would definitely have the store bought PCB inside. I reckon you could fit this into a BB. Check this link for BB size - https://nonameboxmods.com/hect/hammond.html
DeleteRemember vero is generally 0.1" spaced.
holy shit guys! i've just verified that laser gun!
ReplyDeletewhat a fantastic circuit man!
Fredrik thank you so much for this one.
there are not many effects that i've build and felt that "thing"...you know..when you smile like a kid, playing with your new toy...
fired up right away.the sounds that this thing is screaming out are fucking unbelievable!and no way to explain them of course...!!!
i didn't have an on-off-on switch for the LFO so i tested that using alligator clips.
tones of volume there, but it's 3:30 in the morning here so i can't test it at high level.
i'll come back tomorrow with the ics working voltages.
good night and thanks again Fredrik and Alex.
cheers
Savvas
Thanks Savvas for verifying it!
DeleteJust got this working on the breadboard.... Insane. This is now my official holiday project, hoping to be to cram this vero into a 1590N1.
ReplyDeleteBig thanks to Frederik and Alex. Built today and WOW! This is such a fun pedal, so many crazy sounds. I do get quite a noticable tick though, but maybe that tick isn't avoidable.
ReplyDeleteI'm glad you like it! :)
DeleteIf helps to turn up the gate and turn to down rate when not using the modulation/LFO to minimize the ticking.
Unfortunatley alittle bit och ticking is unavoidable. I had noticable ticking on the breadboard, but with the PCB build the ticking is very faint, hardly noticable. I guess that's one of the things that sucks about vero: no proper ground plane and longer wiring, so circuits with LFO's are much more prone to ticking compared to PCB.
Is that ticking a showstopper? Or happens only at some extreme settings? Any demos? Still worth a build?
ReplyDeleteI can't hear any ticking on the demo, unless the gate is dialled so as to give self oscillation
ReplyDeleteThat's because the ticking is very faint on the PCB build. Don't know about the vero though, it's just more prone to ticking in general.
DeleteIs it 37 links, or actually 36. Feel like I'm going mental.
ReplyDeleteI count 37 links
DeleteI just had to go over the links again, I'm counting 38!
DeleteYes. I have counted them again now several times, and I count 38 aswell :P
DeleteUpdated Links and video. :)
ReplyDeleteThe craziest pedal I've ever built. So many incredible sounds... I have absolutely no idea how all the knobs work (specifically, the track, warp and gate knobs are very interactive) but I spent hours just trying different settings. So much fun.
ReplyDeleteThere is a background tick but gate knob maxed solves it. Tracking depends a little on dynamics and pickups settings.
Some pics;
http://i1190.photobucket.com/albums/z442/Sloup/DSCN2555_zpskzspndcg.jpg
http://i1190.photobucket.com/albums/z442/Sloup/DSCN2556_zps4nm6t1ar.jpg
Thank you so much for all the great job here on the blog, mates.
I'm glad you like it. That's a great looking and tidy build. Thanks for sharing! :)
Deletehi,
ReplyDeletesoo fun, thank you for this big layout. Is there an equivalent for 4015 IC?
Hi! There is no 4015 equivalent
DeleteI found 4015 at Futurlec.com
DeleteHope this helps you out
Stereo outputs would be good in this pedal. Anybody knows how to do it?
ReplyDeleteI finally received my CD4015's today, however...
ReplyDeleteAll the controls seems to work, but the ticking is pretty loud. Sounds like a metronome when not playing, even with the gate maxed. In fact the gate doesn't affect the ticking at all.
I used shielded wire for the input and output, pot wires are short and also tried to isolate the supply to the top right 4069.
I'll post a recording before I start digging in, just in case this is the same tick mentioned above. I doubt it though, because it's pretty annoying.
There must be something wrong, just not sure where to begin.
Here is a video clip of the ticking. The ticking occurs in all modes, all settings. It can be heard while playing too.
Deletehttps://youtu.be/WtptU2vlwVI
Need a favor, before I throw in the towel on this one, would someone who also built this let me know if your getting the same ticking I have in this updated video.
DeleteI moved some components around which somehow improved the volume of the ticking, no longer sounds like a metronome. I can't really hear the ticking anymore while playing, but as soon as I stop there it is.
https://youtu.be/E2tdA25GyjE
Thanks!
hi mate! mine works like yours i think...i can't really hear the ticking clearly in that youtube video, but i can live with mine which also ticks a bit just like yours i guess. anyway...i thing that with freppo's pcb, we wouldn't have that problem.
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteI found a workaround to completely eliminate the ticking. By simply disabling the LFO.
DeleteIf you don't mind losing the LFO, I think the simplest way is to cut the link from the top right 4069 pins 8 to 11. I simulated this idea by lifting pin 11. No more ticking!!!
But then the cool LFO effects are permanently lost. For some reason there is still some interaction with the LFO switch on, but nothing like the original LFO sounds.
A better option would be to replace the SPDT on/off/on LFO switch with a DPDT on/off/on. Remove the link from pins 8 to 11 and run a wire from the pin 8 row to lugs 4 and 6 on the new switch. Then run a wire from pin 11 (where the jumper had been) to lug 5. Lugs 1,2 and 3 are wired as before.
This way the LFO can still be enabled, along with the ticking (which isn't really noticeable until you stop playing). However, now when the LFO is turned off, the connection from pin 8 to 11 is also interrupted and the ticking is completely gone!
Alex, I think it would be a good idea to update the layout by moving the 9v supply and diode to the 1st row and remove the cut at pin 11. And remove the link from pins 8 & 11 too. This way the modded DPDT switch can be wired from the edge of the board as usual.
Verified by me.
I posted the same info with pics here:
http://guitar-fx-layouts.42897.x6.nabble.com/Into-the-Unknown-bypass-the-ticking-tp30631.html
This comment has been removed by the author.
DeleteInfo I posted regarding ticking with the PCB:
Deletehttp://guitar-fx-layouts.42897.x6.nabble.com/Into-the-Unknown-bypass-the-ticking-tp30631p31405.html
Thanks Michael!
DeleteSorry but I've missed those previous comments.
I've updated it.
Thanks Alex.
DeletePlease note, I'm not sure if this is the best, or safest way to disable the LFO. But I have done it similarly on both the vero and PCB without issue...so far. (Pins 8 & 11 on the vero, pins 9 & 10 on the PCB)
"Bypass the ticking mod" on hold. (my sincerest apologies)
ReplyDeleteI don't know what just happened, I finished up the graphics tonight, unboxed the PCB version to install the LEDs, and the ticking is worse than ever! No different than the vero version.
In the modded LFO bypass mode, the LFO LED randomly lights, sometimes it does, sometimes it doesn't, but eventually the ticking returns in the bypass mode.
At this point, my frustration level is at its peak, not sure if I've created a new issue, of if not having the LEDs installed masked the ticking.
Going to have put this aside for a while.
Again, my apologies. When I noted "verified by me", I hadn't yet installed the LEDS. Won't happen again.
Mike
This comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteDamn, the pcb is out of stock :(
ReplyDeleteAny estimations on restocking, Fred?
I just built PCB version 2, no ticking!!!
ReplyDeletehttp://www.parasitstudio.se/store/p22/Into_the_Unknown_PCB.html
The LFO can be turned off completely with the new LFO switch.
The LFO can also setup to be automatically gated when there is no input signal, keeping the LFO quiet between notes.
Absolutely fantastic results with version 2 pcb.
Can that mod be easily adapted to this layout?
DeleteSorry, no, there is an additional IC. And it doesn't look like the new schematic has been released.
ReplyDeleteI wouldn't suggest building this layout, or the original pcb as I found the ticking plagued both.
The new PCB is perfect though. Worth the purchase for sure.
Thank you for the answer. On his forum he says "Sorry, the schematic is not public." PCB for me (it's been so long!) At least this may save people some frustration before taking on a big project.
DeleteVersion 2.1 (layout not yet verified)
ReplyDeletehttp://guitar-fx-layouts.42897.x6.nabble.com/Into-The-Unknown-Version-2-1-td44186.html
hey guys, any idea what to change to be usefull for bass?
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteHi MAO, I assume Your layout is not verified yet but it looks fantastic to have option to build this effect without ticking. Did You draft layout based on some schematic or PCB from ParasitStudio?
ReplyDeleteI'm sorry, I was not able to eliminate the ticking on either layout.
DeleteI eventually gave up and purchased the version 2 PCB which is tick free.
I have not designed a layout based off the newest version. Although that schematic is now available.
Again, apologies for any confusion regarding the ticking. Purchasing the version 2 PCB was the only solution I had found.
No problem, anyway I appreciate Your layout in contribution panel on fx forum. Do you know where can I find new schematics? I was only to able to find out some schematic for ver 1.0
DeleteOk, I found schematics for new version. Very generous from Freppo's side.
DeleteHi there! I've taken to printing out the layout to size and sticking it to the top side of my board. Makes building a lot easier. But I've noticed with this layout the hole spacing is off. I can line up the top and bottom rows but everything in between is off. The other two Parasit layouts are fine.
ReplyDeleteWatch my take:
ReplyDeletehttps://youtu.be/zz5jHaDV59M
Hi everyone. I built the simplified version that MAO POSTED
ReplyDeletehttp://guitar-fx-layouts.42897.x6.nabble.com/Into-The-Unknown-Version-2-1-td44186.html
It's very similar to this one. At least where i have my problem I think they are the same.
I have a weird problem: I have the signal ok until the last inverter in U4, just before the output.(The one in the filtering section).
If I take my output from pin 5 from u4 everything is working fine, but from pin 6 of U4 I have no signal.
If I remove completely U4 the original output works fine. Of course I lose the LFO that way. I have swapped both 4069 just in case, but same result. Both work fine as U1, but neither work ok as U4.
Tomorrow I'll try to see if I can find any mistake in my board. Did this ever happened to you?
Thanks!
Hi, a little questiong, how does the numbering on the switch pins go?
ReplyDeleteIs it:
1 4
2 5
3 6
or
1 2
3 4
5 6
I would suggest you to check the schematic found on parasit studio webpage, and there you can deduce how to connect the switches according to what should connect with what. With a multimeter check continuity to be sure how you switch works.
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DeleteTypically it's your first guess
Delete1 4
2 5
3 6
However, in this case most of the switches (except for one in layout #2) are all SPDT. So they number like this
1
2
3
Just made it and it works perfectly :) thanks a lot
ReplyDeleteSince I can't get any veroboards where I live, I made a printable layout, here it is if anyone needs it https://imgur.com/a/ErdEUta
Squares are where the jumpers should be, and some were omitted since there was no problem in just doing the trace in some places.