Here's a collection of vero (stripboard) and tagboard guitar and bass effect layouts that we have put together covering many classic and popular effects in growing numbers. Many of these have been posted on freestompboxes.org, so check that site out for great discussions on building your own effect pedals. Enjoy the builds and please also visit us on Facebook and Twitter
Miro, am I crazy or didn't you do a layout for this already? Not complaining, btw, cause I've wanted to build this for awhile, and thought it's in my "to build" folder.
This used to have version noted on it, but that got "no, you're wrong" comments in the first minute, so i removed the version notes. The video should give you an idea. +m
well at least i'm not crazy. i'm glad to know that the other one is the reissue, cause i wanted to build the original. awesome job as always man, thanks.
I am very sorry Mirosol. I posted that reply. I deleted it quickly after i did some more checking and found out i was wrong. I love your work and really appreciate you sharing your knowledge with us! Thank you! I didn't want to be a smartass, i was just confused about the versions. I will definately build this layout!
I saw it the other day but when I got home to download it the post was gone. Thought I had imagined it :0)
Love this pedal! (Although I may be a bit biased as this was the very 1st pedal I bought way back in 1980. Lent it to a co-worker in the late 80s, he left and I never got it back!)
Another perfect layout, but for those of you who like to avoid double links like me the board and layout can be easily modified. In a nutshell, I flipped Rows 9 & 10, juggled around a few components and moved 1 of the links and 2 of the cuts.
Never realized how "classic" this pedal is. I socketed most of the circuit so I can play with values. My first mod was putting BAT42s as diodes instead of 4148s. I like them much better. Very smooth. Going to try BS170s next as clippers.
Thank you very much for all your veros. They are greatly appreciated and anticipated.
I built this last night and it sounds awesome except that it's super noisy when the gain is up all the way. I did sub a 100pf ceramic cap for the 120pf. Could this be causing it?
No. LM308 won't work. It needs compensation between pins 1&8, which isn't present on OD250, or in LM741 or UA741 for that matter. It should work with TL071 or other basic single opamps. +m
Hi This is the first pedal i ever build so sorry if my question is stupid. I have assembled the vero board and now i wire the offboard components but i dont know where to connect the first lug of the gain pot. Any help will be appreciated. Thank you and well done for the work you have put into this site
Thanks for the immediate response Warrior. I finished but something isn't working. My guitar signal travels unaltered through the circuit no matter the position of the switch. Do you have any general idea what might be the problem? Thanks again
Hi! 6 years later I present the same problem. I'm new to this and the truth is I don't know what happens, everything is in its place and I tried to do my best but I don't get the overdrive, my guitar straight without any modification in the signal.How did you manage to fix it?
Looking at this layout, it appears that IC pin 6 goes into a 10k resistor, which goes into a 4.7uF cap. Other schems I've seen swap it so that the cap comes before the resistor.
Hi, I've only built a few pedals and still consider myself new at this. I have tried to build this one and seem to have similar problems to others. Instead of nice distortion, there is a crackling like noise when the gain is turned up high enough that the IC begins to clip. Even with the clipping diodes removed, it still makes this noise when the gain is turned up.
I tested all the parts before the build and everything was within reason. Most of the parts are socketed and I've checked the caps again, they all check out. Also, I've tried about 10 different LM741CN opamps as well at 4 different TL071 and they all make the same noise. I've changed the cap on the feedback loop between pin 2 to 6 from 10pf, 20pf, 47pf, 100pf, and 120pf, all have the same noise.
Here are my voltages:
1: 0 2: 4.24 3: 3.03 4: 0 5: 0 6: 4.54 7 9.01 8 0
I've made an audio probe and the signal is clear up until it comes out of the IC at pin 6.
Another one I got built and tested over the weekend, used an LM741 and there's plenty of gain on tap, though I'll probably try a few alternatives at some point just to see which I like the best. At minimum gain it never gets completely clean, more a gritty edge of breakup sound even on a clean amp but into a slightly driven amp there is plenty of scope for playing dynamics and the guitars volume control to clean things up a bit if the mood takes you. Pretty good classic rock style overdrive and will probably get boxed at some point :o)
I built it yesterday with a 1M gain and TLO71. Sounds good. Low noise for such a simple creature of clipped gain. I moved the 4.7uf cap into it's stock position- in front of the 10k output filter resistor. Could not find a .001uf in my stash so I used a .0015uf for an input cap, seems fine. Waiting on a C500k and a LM741 from a supplier in Oklahoma. Rigging mine for LEDs, 4148's and a pair of mosfet clippers. Thanks for a great layout!
My first ever build! Sounds great. Admittedly didn't work first time and had to do some trouble-shooting (my soldering skills are... less than adequate), but now that it's up and running I've been experimenting with the diodes, which I socketed. The stock 1n4148s sound great, but I tried a pair of BAT42s as well, which were recommended in a comment here. Different flavour definitely, slightly less output I think, but a slightly fuller bass and low mid presence. I decided to put one 1n4148 and one BAT42 to see what it sounded like, and so far that's what I'm sticking with until a pair of germanium 1n34a diodes arrive and I can try those out. Cheers!
The rationale behind this circuit is that increasing the gain also adds more high end, so a real tone control is not really part of the design.
You can try the modification that Brian Wampler suggested for the Distortion+, which should also work with this circuit: Replace the 1nF capacitor with a 2.2nF cap in series with a 1M pot, see: https://www.premierguitar.com/articles/mxr-distortion-plus-mods-1
Verified using UA741CP opamp. 1n4148 diodes sound great, classic, like a DOD 250 should. Red 3mm LED are an interesting tonal option - try putting both on a switch.
Also, I found that the logarithmic 500k pot didn't work for me. First 3/4 of the rotation had no overdrive effect, then it spiked up at the end. Way better with a linear B500k potentiometer. Remember to swap the connection or the gain's sweep will be reversed. Just wire the board to Gain 1 and 2 instead of 2 and 3.
Miro, am I crazy or didn't you do a layout for this already? Not complaining, btw, cause I've wanted to build this for awhile, and thought it's in my "to build" folder.
ReplyDeleteI think the other one was the re-issue version, at a glance it looks like only a few value changes although the gain pot looks reversed on this one
DeleteThe reissue uses 4558. This, the old version has LM741 in it.
DeleteHow does it look reversed? Clockwise grounds the 47n.
+m
This used to have version noted on it, but that got "no, you're wrong" comments in the first minute, so i removed the version notes. The video should give you an idea.
Delete+m
well at least i'm not crazy. i'm glad to know that the other one is the reissue, cause i wanted to build the original. awesome job as always man, thanks.
DeleteI meant reversed compared to your post on the re-issue
Delete"mirosol20 July 2013 10:43
Dude! I just built two of these and it's definitely ground to gain 3 :) So i'm swapping the wires back"
In essence those both do the same thing. The inverting input gets closer to ground when the pots turns clockwise.
Delete+m
I am very sorry Mirosol. I posted that reply. I deleted it quickly after i did some more checking and found out i was wrong. I love your work and really appreciate you sharing your knowledge with us! Thank you! I didn't want to be a smartass, i was just confused about the versions. I will definately build this layout!
ReplyDeleteThanks mirosol for re-posting this one!
ReplyDeleteI saw it the other day but when I got home to download it the post was gone. Thought I had imagined it :0)
Love this pedal! (Although I may be a bit biased as this was the very 1st pedal I bought way back in 1980. Lent it to a co-worker in the late 80s, he left and I never got it back!)
Another perfect layout, but for those of you who like to avoid double links like me the board and layout can be easily modified. In a nutshell, I flipped Rows 9 & 10, juggled around a few components and moved 1 of the links and 2 of the cuts.
Here are some pics: (verified by me last night)
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-YhIYikOuq-c/VGOwzL49KNI/AAAAAAAAAX4/X7EBWAethbE/w521-h553-no/DOD250-no-dbl-link.png
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-g0WEC6Z9D7g/VGOwzb88LHI/AAAAAAAAAYA/0jbv5QYp8L4/w981-h552-no/DOD%2B250%2Bboard.jpg
Now that I have my pedal back, wish I could get my hair back too.
Built and fired up first time!
ReplyDeleteNever realized how "classic" this pedal is. I socketed most of the circuit so I can play with values. My first mod was putting BAT42s as diodes instead of 4148s. I like them much better. Very smooth. Going to try BS170s next as clippers.
Thank you very much for all your veros. They are greatly appreciated and anticipated.
Peace!
I built this last night and it sounds awesome except that it's super noisy when the gain is up all the way. I did sub a 100pf ceramic cap for the 120pf. Could this be causing it?
ReplyDeleteTo answer my own question yes.
ReplyDeleteAlso, this sounds killer with red leds for diodes.
Can't get this work. Tl071 or lm308 are good subs for the ic?
ReplyDeleteI tried a 308, no luck
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
DeleteNo. LM308 won't work. It needs compensation between pins 1&8, which isn't present on OD250, or in LM741 or UA741 for that matter. It should work with TL071 or other basic single opamps.
Delete+m
Ok i dont know why but now is fixed. Tl071 works
ReplyDeleteHi
ReplyDeleteThis is the first pedal i ever build so sorry if my question is stupid. I have assembled the vero board and now i wire the offboard components but i dont know where to connect the first lug of the gain pot. Any help will be appreciated.
Thank you and well done for the work you have put into this site
Just leave it unconnected ;)
DeleteThanks for the immediate response Warrior.
DeleteI finished but something isn't working. My guitar signal travels unaltered through the circuit no matter the position of the switch. Do you have any general idea what might be the problem?
Thanks again
Hi! 6 years later I present the same problem. I'm new to this and the truth is I don't know what happens, everything is in its place and I tried to do my best but I don't get the overdrive, my guitar straight without any modification in the signal.How did you manage to fix it?
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
DeleteLooking at this layout, it appears that IC pin 6 goes into a 10k resistor, which goes into a 4.7uF cap. Other schems I've seen swap it so that the cap comes before the resistor.
ReplyDeleteAm I going crazy?
No, you are correct! It supposedly makes no difference, as the components are in series.
DeleteHello, this one is my first and when is the gain pot at its maximum, it makes lot of crapy noise. Coulde anyone help me, please?
ReplyDeleteDoes it sound correct when the gain pot isn't maxed?
DeleteHi, I've only built a few pedals and still consider myself new at this. I have tried to build this one and seem to have similar problems to others. Instead of nice distortion, there is a crackling like noise when the gain is turned up high enough that the IC begins to clip. Even with the clipping diodes removed, it still makes this noise when the gain is turned up.
ReplyDeleteI tested all the parts before the build and everything was within reason. Most of the parts are socketed and I've checked the caps again, they all check out. Also, I've tried about 10 different LM741CN opamps as well at 4 different TL071 and they all make the same noise. I've changed the cap on the feedback loop between pin 2 to 6 from 10pf, 20pf, 47pf, 100pf, and 120pf, all have the same noise.
Here are my voltages:
1: 0
2: 4.24
3: 3.03
4: 0
5: 0
6: 4.54
7 9.01
8 0
I've made an audio probe and the signal is clear up until it comes out of the IC at pin 6.
Images:
http://1drv.ms/1JoRYYO
http://1drv.ms/1JoS3Md
http://1drv.ms/1A6U1ic
http://1drv.ms/1A6U7Xj
http://1drv.ms/1JoSmGP
http://1drv.ms/1JoSrKp
http://1drv.ms/1JoSuWS
http://1drv.ms/1JoSCpa
Any help would be appreciated.
This comment has been removed by the author.
DeleteAnother one I got built and tested over the weekend, used an LM741 and there's plenty of gain on tap, though I'll probably try a few alternatives at some point just to see which I like the best. At minimum gain it never gets completely clean, more a gritty edge of breakup sound even on a clean amp but into a slightly driven amp there is plenty of scope for playing dynamics and the guitars volume control to clean things up a bit if the mood takes you. Pretty good classic rock style overdrive and will probably get boxed at some point :o)
ReplyDeleteI just finished one with 3mm red LED clipping diodes and the lm741
ReplyDeletesounds fantastic for a preamp!
I built it yesterday with a 1M gain and TLO71. Sounds good. Low noise for such a simple creature of clipped gain. I moved the 4.7uf cap into it's stock position- in front of the 10k output filter resistor. Could not find a .001uf in my stash so I used a .0015uf for an input cap, seems fine. Waiting on a C500k and a LM741 from a supplier in Oklahoma. Rigging mine for LEDs, 4148's and a pair of mosfet clippers. Thanks for a great layout!
ReplyDeleteooops- decimal point...(.) make that read - the .01 to the .015 on the input.
ReplyDeleteMy first ever build! Sounds great. Admittedly didn't work first time and had to do some trouble-shooting (my soldering skills are... less than adequate), but now that it's up and running I've been experimenting with the diodes, which I socketed. The stock 1n4148s sound great, but I tried a pair of BAT42s as well, which were recommended in a comment here. Different flavour definitely, slightly less output I think, but a slightly fuller bass and low mid presence. I decided to put one 1n4148 and one BAT42 to see what it sounded like, and so far that's what I'm sticking with until a pair of germanium 1n34a diodes arrive and I can try those out.
ReplyDeleteCheers!
Is there a simple tone pot add-on or treble roll off that can be done?
ReplyDeleteThe rationale behind this circuit is that increasing the gain also adds more high end, so a real tone control is not really part of the design.
DeleteYou can try the modification that Brian Wampler suggested for the Distortion+, which should also work with this circuit: Replace the 1nF capacitor with a 2.2nF cap in series with a 1M pot, see: https://www.premierguitar.com/articles/mxr-distortion-plus-mods-1
It may have been asked before, what is the blue dot under the IC.
ReplyDelete2 links in the same hole.
DeleteThank you kizzer....
ReplyDeleteVerified using UA741CP opamp. 1n4148 diodes sound great, classic, like a DOD 250 should. Red 3mm LED are an interesting tonal option - try putting both on a switch.
ReplyDeleteAlso, I found that the logarithmic 500k pot didn't work for me. First 3/4 of the rotation had no overdrive effect, then it spiked up at the end. Way better with a linear B500k potentiometer. Remember to swap the connection or the gain's sweep will be reversed. Just wire the board to Gain 1 and 2 instead of 2 and 3.
This comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteMy GAIN pot is reversed. How do I fix it?
ReplyDeleteSuper!!
ReplyDeleteMy DOD250:
https://www.tiktok.com/@zsoli68/video/6992275049050819845?lang=hu-HU&is_copy_url=0&is_from_webapp=v1&sender_device=pc&sender_web_id=6974061748027491845
Build this with vintage parts ..Sounds exactly grey version
ReplyDeleteThank you and credits to the owners of this site..
Show us a front and back photo of your build. This layout has been built many times by many people and is 100% verified
ReplyDelete