Here's a collection of vero (stripboard) and tagboard guitar and bass effect layouts that we have put together covering many classic and popular effects in growing numbers. Many of these have been posted on freestompboxes.org, so check that site out for great discussions on building your own effect pedals. Enjoy the builds and please also visit us on Facebook and Twitter
Friday, 25 July 2014
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i'm building this one right now.
ReplyDeleteVERIFIED!
ReplyDeleteCheers! The marketing text for the original says its suitable for bass as is. Did you do any mods?
Delete+m
it's a little boxy on the low end. i'm going to try and change the freq of the bass eq (lower) than to change the HPF of the drive (390R/1u cap= 408 Hz). I replaced the 1u cap with a 4u7 and it did give it a lot more low end, but the dirt is a bit too heavy that way. it's late now, so i'm going to experiment with it a bit more tomorrow.
DeleteI also found that an audio gain pot (as opposed to a linear) gives a much better sweep over the gain range.
I put the 1u back in for the HPF in the gain circuit to make the dirt sound better (which is stock) and then replaced the 220n with a 1u to lower the frequency of the bass contro,l and it sounds awesome with a bass now. since I socketed the bass eq freq cap, I also tried a 470n and a 680n but the 1 u sounds best for my purposes.
DeleteDONE!
Deletehttp://johnkvintageguitars.homestead.com/Effects/Fuzz-ODs/Maxon/DM-DS-830-01.jpg
http://johnkvintageguitars.homestead.com/Effects/Fuzz-ODs/Maxon/DM-DS-830-02.jpg
Very nice. Anything designed by Maxon is worth building, buying or stealing.
DeleteJohn.
DeleteDid you just buff that shine on or is it a chrome box? Very nice.
jeff
it's just a polished enclosure.
DeleteLooks very cool.
DeleteGreat work, John, as usual. I'll build this pedal as soon as i'm back from holidays.
DeleteNow that's a sweet build, John. Two thumbs up!
ReplyDeleteIs that a waterslide?
nope. it's a brother p-touch.
DeleteDo you mean a simple Brother p-touch label maker?
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteI forgot : Thank you Miro ;) But i have a question, how do you draw your cuts "over" the jumpers ? I can't get them on the upper layer.
DeleteIf you're using the latest version(s) of V3, just select the cuts and press Alt+ArrowUp. The option can be found on the Edit menu as well - "Send Backward", "Bring Forward"
Delete+m
Ok, got it working, using "copper trace" instead of "jumpers". Anyway, thank's a lot for the help and for all this great layouts (This goes to Mark too ;) )
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteCan this pedal run on 12 or 18 volt
ReplyDelete12V is ok. 18 is not - or it is on the fringe.
Deletehttp://pdf.datasheetcatalog.com/datasheets/270/489253_DS.pdf
JRC4558D should be able to take 18V, but it anything over it (not too well balanced power supply for example) can burn it. You could try it with a voltage doubler and place a 1N4001 in series with its input. That should give you something like 16 volts. Which should be safe, but still increase the headroom.
+m
I think It will be fine for 18V too. With it showing a bipolar +/-18V supply in the datasheet, it shows it will be ok with a 36V swing so you should even be fine using it with a unipolar 36V supply
DeleteIs there a schematic floating around of this box
ReplyDeleteTry FSB.
Delete+m
Built this and it is a nice distortion pedal. Definitely worth building.
ReplyDeleteCan I use 2SK30A instead 2SK246Y ?
ReplyDelete