I thought I'd share this little project with everyone as I'm sure a few other people would be interested in it. Just to paint the picture I really hate two things about building effects, firstly the clunky and sometimes unreliable 3PDT switches, and secondly (and most annoyingly) the offboard wiring. I reckon I'd have built considerably more if the thought of offboard wiring hadn't put me off doing something so many times. So here in the UK we have an online electronics supplier called Rapid Electronics and they sell some DPDT switches which have a much nicer action than the usual 3PDT, you literally only need to step on it lightly to switch over and there is no clunk, and as an added bonus they're really cheap and readily available:
http://www.rapidonline.com/Electronic-Components/Foot-switches-79208/
They're currently £1.69 each if you buy 10 or more, but the price has gone up and I only paid about £1.12 each when I bought a stash a while ago.
I'd seen some of the daughter board layouts on here for the 3PDT which looked excellent, so I asked Eric (Mr G on FSB) if he'd mind doing one for a DPDT switch and with onboard millenium bypass components and the good man that he is, he happily obliged.
Here's the boards, and the first build I'm using them for:
The first thing that struck me was how much neater the thing ends up compared to my usual builds! :) The second thing that struck me is that offboard wiring really isn't an issue now, I actually enjoyed it for the first time ever. All the connections are there including separate ground connections for the input and output sockets which just makes it a breeze.
Anyway thanks Eric for the excellent layout and here's the PDF containing the PCB artwork for printing:
What's the easiest way of making your own PCBs ? Do you know a nice tutorial ?
ReplyDeleteI don't make my own I'm afraid, I don't trust my kids not to drink a bottle of Ferric Chloride if they come across it, so I play safe, buy my PCBs and do everything else on vero or tagboard :o)
ReplyDeleteFor PCBs in quantity I'd use Futurlec who are very reasonably priced, for one offs I'd get one of the guys from FSB or DIYSB to do it for me.
This is awesome. Second the shout for the DPDT's at Rapid, cheap as chips and function really well.
ReplyDeleteThere are so many ways to make your own PCB's. I prefer the "Photo resist" method, see here!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tWnfnt2rNO0
Also, without sounding or coming across as a total kiss ass, (just would like to give a little back) If you ever need a single run of a particular board etching Mark, give me a shout, I'd be more than happy to etch it for you. It won't have the serigraphy or solder mask, just a basic board, but they function very well and I only live in north Wales so it would cost nothing to post it to you bud. Just my little way of saying thank you!
ReplyDeleteMilkit
That's brilliant thanks mate
DeleteNo worries bud, you've helped me out so much these past few months so....
ReplyDeleteI have an awesome as fuck pcb layout for the wampler triple wreck with boost board if you're interested mate? Just let me know dude!
Yes please, that sounds excellent.
DeleteI may also be in the market for an Openhaus if you've got a layout. I considered doing a vero layout ..... for about 3 nanoseconds. I like vero but not when they're the size of paving slabs :o)
Yeah mate I know what you mean. I must say, this layout isn't mine, I found it at FSB about a month ago, but I built Harald Sabro's triple wreck & the two sound about the same, pretty effin mean! I don't have the Openhaus, but I'll certainly do some hunting mate. Email me your delivery address to blue_nose_kid@yahoo.com
ReplyDeleteI'm in my workshop tonight & I'll get this bad boy rockin' up for you. I'll include the schematic and obviously the board layout too.
Enjoy mate.
Matt
Those DPDT switches look interesting.. and cheap! I've always thought that the 3PDT's were the be and end all as they're ''true bypass''
ReplyDeleteWould be good to get your thoughts on it...
Also would these DPDT's wire the same as a 3pdt?
Yes pretty much, but you can ignore the LED pole because that's dealt with by the daughterboard. The actual connections on the DPDT stomp are Input socket, output socket, FX input, FX output and control. Here's a vero for it:
Deletehttp://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j6/IvIark_2006/Layouts/Vero/MilleniumBypass2.png
I'm doing another bypass option at the moment which a few people may be interested in, which uses a momentary switch (SPST will do) an IC and a relay. I love the idea of controlling an effect with one of those big sturdy heavy duty momentary SPST stomps!
I'll post more about then when my bits arrive.
any luck with that bypass yet? I know of a few people that would go nuts for that.
DeleteNot yet. I've got all the bits but haven't had the time to devote to experimenting with it yet. I'll post a new thread when it's been sorted.
Deletemay i know the list of component please...
ReplyDeleteI guess that the link above answers that: http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j6/IvIark_2006/Layouts/Vero/MilleniumBypass2.png
DeleteThat layout is the same thing - only on vero..
+m
this was really interesting reading, same here, making the vero layout and put it in test setup is the funniest part, then comes the enclosure drilling, NOT fun.. and lastly but even worse.. doing the offboard wiring and soldering, takes ages! the millenium solution, is that "true bypass" as well or does it have any effect on the tone at all?
ReplyDeleteregarding DPDT stomps, since i live in sweden it's always tricky to find suppliers that dosnt charge you a silly amount of money for shipping, when i once were doing alot of midi stuff i searched around for momentary switches and found these and ordered them since the shipping was basiclly nothing from them and the switches are really good priced! the switches are ALPHA ones, they also have the latching model.
1.45 each! http://www.brimal.co.uk/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=eny_fly_brimal.tpl&product_id=319&category_id=360&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=2
Yes this is just as true bypass as using a 3PDT. And those Alphas are exactly the ones to use with the PCB, the holes for the stomp were spaced so that one fits exactly.
Deletebeen eager about learning to etch boards even tho i find vero quite fun to work with as well, guess this thing is a good choice for a first attempt at etching... damn, no i will need to put another order for etch supplies :p but now, im gonna box that plimsoul i told you about!
Deletegj, just realised i mirrorerd the layout when i made the pcb's... i shouldnt have done that really couse the components are been bound mirrorerd sort of.. ah well, gotta order some new pcbs im afraid!
ReplyDeletetrying the toner transfer method now, looks like it can work out, i'll upload some pics when it's done :)
DeleteI made up quite few of these and bought 30 switches, sold my 3pdt switches and relaized that maybe it's not possible to use this if your going to put two effects in one box seperate from each other? How do i wire that up with these really?
ReplyDeletewould this be correct?
Deletehttps://dl.dropbox.com/u/2828668/millenium_dpdt_two_in_one.jpg
Yes that's it
Deletecool! is it possible to incorporate a switch in some way so that you can change the order of effetcts usin the milleniums and is it possible to add a fx-loop in between?
ReplyDeletejeez, done two of these now and none of them works, or well, atelast the led, havent been able to try it with sound. one is just stone dead and the otherone lights the led all the time even when pusing the switch. any ideas?
ReplyDeleteHave you got them attached to a circuit or are you trying them on their own?
Deletestupid me, worked when it was connected haha. sorry mate, might as well take a break from building to clear my head haha.
DeleteThe other one may be a faulty mosfet, they are susceptible to static damage so I tend to socket the PCB and put the mosfets in last.
DeleteThey are sensitive indeed, on of them worked before boxing it and was died after boxing haha. Solved now although! Will get some pics to you of the boxing i just made, features two of these, although cutted in the corners to fit haha.
DeleteGreat post! This exactly what I've been looking for. I'm building a True bypass strip and would like to avoid using 3tdp switches. I also looked into relay switching, but it would make the price go up a lot.
ReplyDeleteCan I get these boards for these switches from someone? Or maybe the layout in a format I can use to order from somewhere like futurlec ?
I have no experience designing pcbs, but would like to get like 20 of these.
Thank you!
If you email me at guitarfx at hotmail dot co dot uk I'll send you the files to order from Futurlec. I'd sell you some myself but I've run out now and haven't re-ordered any yet.
DeleteGreat! Thanks a lot! I've sent the mail, just wanted to confirm you received it. Thanks!
DeleteI know this is kind of an old thread, but would you happen to still have that .pcb file?
DeleteThanks, I was looking for information and your blog really helped me.
ReplyDeletepcb manufacture uk
hello,
ReplyDeletefirst of all congratulations to everyone contributing to this amazing corner in the web, it's really quality stuff! :)
i've built 3 effect pedals till now and all work perfectly, but this is the first time trying the 2pdt switch with the millennium board. i have a tiny veroboard with everything connected like the schematic, the BS170 and a 1N4148. But the LED is always on and very faint compared to its really "on" state. i've got the board connected to the rest of the "bass fuzz" which already works, but pressing the switch makes no difference for the led. Any idea what i might be missing here? Thank you
it was a blown BS170, got a couple new and it works like a charm now thank you! :)
DeleteThanks for linking to our footswitch. Have you thought of leaving a review of the switch and getting £25 off your next Rapid order if its the review of the month?
ReplyDeleteHi people, I have build the millennium bypass and integrated it to a Zvex Super Hard on but I still have the annoying pop. Please help maybe im connecting something wrong...Everything worh but the pop is sometimes loud :(
ReplyDeleteDoes the SHO layout you're using have a pulldown resistor at the input?
DeleteSince I know how to install that 1M pulldown resistor only if I make the connection with 3PDT I don't know where to put it when using 2PDT and millennium bypass...Can you please tell me what to do...Thanks in advance :)
DeleteWell it may not need one depending on your SHO layout. Which one did you use?
DeleteI have used the SHO compact layout http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2013/02/zvex-super-hard-on-compact-layout.html and for my second project I'll use the updated version but for the second I'll wire 3PDT hopping that I won't have pop...By the way is there any difference in the tone?
DeleteThat layout already has a pulldown resistor so adding another one won't do anything for you. It also has a pulldown resistor at the output so it isn't that either. All I could suggest is re-flowing your solder so you know all the joints are good, and if that doesn't help then you may need to start swapping caps to see if one of those is causing the problem.
DeleteSorry again, the updated version has the resistor or the old version "compact layout"...
DeleteUse the compact layout, that is the latest version I've done and includes pulldown resistors at input and output. The updated version was the second version layout I did and was for the new (at the time) SHO circuit, but it doesn't have the pulldown input resistor and so I'd opt for the compact layout which is the same circuit but with both pd resistors included
DeleteZillion thanks Mark!
ReplyDeleteJust built a couple of these. The LED is on constantly and getting tonnes of noise when the effect is "on".
ReplyDeleteHelp!
The LED is switched off when the gate of the mosfet sees the output resistance of the board, which are both connected during bypass. So there must be a problem with the switch, or the connection from switch lug 4 to gate, or maybe the mosfet itself.
DeleteWhat type of mosfet have you used? They are very susceptible to damage from static and so there is always the chance that they have been damaged. It would be pretty bad luck if the same had happened with both boards you have built though.
But this layout has been used by lots of people so we know it's OK, which means it's either a build problem, or a faulty/incorrect component, so you're going to have to go over it critically and see if there are any unwanted bridges or anything which could be causing problems.
I've used a BS170. Any good way to test if these have been damaged?
DeleteI've just packed all my gear away. Hopefully I'll come back with a clear mind and spot the issue, do some more checking with my multimeter.
Not unless you have another pedal you can test them in like a SHO. Bear in mind that the switching and LED are independent and so any problem with the LED doesn't explain why you would get noise in your effect. Have you tested the effect without the switch? The noise there would again point to the switch or a bad connection somewhere.
Deletewhat's D2 for? and what is D2?
ReplyDeleteD2 is the LED.
Deleteis there any of these left... probably not, but i had to try.
ReplyDeleteis there any of these left... probably not, but i had to try.
ReplyDeleteR1 = 2k2
ReplyDeleteD1 = 1N914
Q1 = BS170
Right?
does it matter which way the footswitch goes ? Does it matter if the numbers correspond correctly?
ReplyDeletealso i can't seem to work this out correctly, but are the Jack Output and Input on the wrong sides. Im probably not seeing something right here, any help would be appreciated!
ReplyDelete