Tuesday, 19 November 2019

Friedman Golden Pearl Overdrive

I haven't done a layout for a while and as this is a nice simple one I (as I like them) I thought I'd add this to the collection. After doing it I noticed that HamishR has added a layout to the forum and that one is verified. But I thought I'd still add this to the main blog.  I did it with the components on the switches though to keep the board more simple though so you can just choose the one you prefer.

You can see HamishR's layout here:
http://guitar-fx-layouts.42897.x6.nabble.com/Friedman-Golden-Pearl-Verified-td45066.html

Info about the original:

The Friedman Golden Pearl is a transparent, lower gain overdrive pedal designed to push already overdriven amps into seductive saturation. This versatile pedal can also be used into a clean amp to achieve that elusive semi-broken up tone. 
Designed to please the ultimate tone connoisseur, the responsive controls, along with the three position high-frequency cut switch, let you custom tailor the pedal to your amp. 
Even greater refinement is available via the tri-mode clipping mode switch, which provides LED, diode, or no clipping voice options. Built in the USA, and designed to withstand decades of abuse, the Golden Pearl is a must have pedal for any guitar player. 






58 comments:

  1. Nice to see a new layout with your name on it. You've been missed, ha! Now where is Miro? Let me just take a moment to thank you and everyone else that contributes here. Over the past 4 years I cant remember a day that I haven't looked at this blog. Just know that it's appreciated.

    ReplyDelete
  2. Hi Ivlark!!Welcome back!!I hope all is well!I`ts not the same without you!I wish you all the best!Thanks for the layout!

    ReplyDelete
  3. Thanks guys. We went through so many layouts over a fairly short period of time so we pretty much ran out of candidates to do, Although the other guys here keep pulling them out of the bag and I would like to keep doing them every so often so I can prove to myself my brain still works. :)

    I’m sure one of us will be posting newly reversed circuits whenever they crop up.

    Miro does pop in here from time to time but we both got caught up in other things which took over a lot of our free time. Such is life.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Yea. I'm alive too.
      Been slowly trying to get back on the horse by cleaning spam from comments and sometimes commenting back when debug help is needed. Haven't been following the forum section, so i'm a bit out of what has been done already etc.

      If i find the time to relax with my laptop, i might be drawing some too.. We'll see.
      +m

      Delete
    2. Yay! We're getting the band back together! :o)

      Delete
    3. Have to second marks comment. Still hear and alive. For me I just finished getting my doctorate, started working again in the medical field, and just have my first kid, turned 4months yesterday. So yea life kinda got in the way for all of us. Im sure the band will be back together real soon.

      Delete
    4. Congratulations Dr. Zach and Papa Zach! 2 milestones down in one fell swoop.....

      Delete
    5. I can't remember whether I congratulated you on Facebook for both mate (I do tend to miss things), but if not congratulations! :o)

      Delete
  4. Hi lvlark, I think you meant 9 cuts and 5 links. Thank you for the layout. Great to see some new layouts on the main page again.
    Aloha!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Haha, I actually double checked the counts before posting, just didn't check I'd used the right items! :o)
      I'll update it cheers

      Delete
    2. That is why you have us, loyal followers, to proofread the layouts, hahaha. You can tag it verified. Fun afternoon build, everything works as anticipated. Thanks again!

      Delete
    3. Thanks mate, you're a star!

      Delete
  5. I have learned so much from this blog and it has given me endless hours of fun. Thanks lvlark and the rest of the contributors...you guys rock. I agree good to see you posting:-)

    ReplyDelete
  6. I too, also check this blog daily. Thanks for all the layouts guys.

    ReplyDelete
  7. Thanks for all. Congratulation. Hug from Brazil

    ReplyDelete
  8. Replies
    1. Yes pretty much any dual opamp should be fine. TL072, NE5532, JRC4558, LM1458 etc

      Delete
    2. tl062 should work well.

      Delete
  9. Hey fellas, just wanted to give 2 thumbs up on this layout and can highly recommend this pedal. Don't be fooled by the low part count/simplicity of the circuit, sound quality is right up there with a Klon/Timmy/Archer and just as "transparent" imo.

    ReplyDelete
  10. About to try build this after making a fuzzface clone and I'm still confused about buffers. Will I need to add a buffer to this or can I drop it straight into an enclosure as is?

    ReplyDelete
  11. Hello, can you do a layout for this?
    https://www.electronicshub.org/200watt-audio-amplifier/
    https://www.electronicshub.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/200W-Audio-Amplifier.jpg

    ReplyDelete
  12. No buffers needed here. Basically, this is a simplified version of a Tube Screamer. Search for "Son of a Screamer" and R.G. Keens explanation of the Tube Screamer at geofex.com

    ReplyDelete
  13. This pedal is almost identical to Tone Freak Naked OD.
    I once reversed the naked od.

    ReplyDelete
  14. Tip: replace the 47nf cap at the top left with a dpdt on-on toggle switch between 47nf and 100nf for a "fat mode".

    ReplyDelete
  15. Hello guys.
    I just wanted to thank you for all your effort.
    God bless you.

    ReplyDelete
  16. This comment has been removed by the author.

    ReplyDelete
  17. I make mine the words of the proceding speaker.
    Indeed, God bless you and thank you very much!

    ReplyDelete
  18. I have seen your video blog You have described everything in deeply way this is really informative article for improving skill of beginner's.thank you for sharing.custom digitizing

    ReplyDelete
  19. Hi,
    On HamishR's layout, theres is a 1N5817 diode... where is it on yours?

    ReplyDelete
  20. Beginner question. What’s the best method for soldering the diodes to the switch? Is it a separate stripboard wired to the switch, or soldering the diodes to each other then to the switch?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I'd solder them into their own group away from the switch so you're not putting unnecessary heat into something which is fairly fragile. Solder up the arrangement so that you're left with a wire on each side to then solder into the switch. You can do it on a separate small piece of vero if you have room, but I always put them straight into the switch.

      Delete
  21. I built HamishR's stripped version, modding the clipping with asymetrical LED/ 1N4148.
    Really good pedal, from transparent clean boost to raw overdrive.
    Definitly a keeper.

    ReplyDelete
  22. guys how are you? hope so.
    well, in this quarantine i decided to put this wonderful project into practice, but i have a doubt, that little dot from the bottom of the CI, what does it mean?

    ReplyDelete
  23. This comment has been removed by the author.

    ReplyDelete
  24. actually this white dot surrounded by blue

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. It represents a double link, where two links share the same hole.

      Delete
  25. This comment has been removed by the author.

    ReplyDelete
  26. I struggle with low volume. I used TL072 and 33nF instead 47nF. Could you help?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. And I also looked for cold solder joints, accidental jumpers on the vero board.

      Delete
  27. Is there a way to coax more gain from this layout? This was designed for a Marshall, but I'm running through a Fender Deluxe Reverb and would like a bit more drive.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Lazy solution (my favorite) = build a simple boost with a trimpot, wire it first before your goldenP circuit, et voilà! Somme more gain!

      https://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2013/01/electro-harmonix-lpb1-with-trimmer.html

      https://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2013/02/zvex-super-hard-on-compact-layout.html

      https://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2017/03/earthquaker-devices-black-eye.html

      Delete
  28. This circuit seems to me have the gain already maxed. Maybe you could decrease tha 2.2k resistor close to the 47nF cap, it could give your more gritty and presence, if you need increase that 47nF, too, if you lose too much bass.
    I don't know how much gain could give you add a pair of diodes to the ground: one side from the right of the 2.2k on the extreme right side and one side to the ground some stripe above. Even if it's a bit difficult to do it. Or in another spot of the circuit: from the two spots on the stripe of the 10uF positive side to the ground in the last stripe down.
    In alternative you have to add a booster in front of it.

    ReplyDelete
  29. Is there any way we can change out the 3n9 cap? Where I'm from, I can't seem to find any of the component. Thanks guys!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Probably the sound will change a bit, but you can search a value closer as possible to the 3.9nF, I'd say bigger rather smaller. A 4.7nF?
      Or you can solder in parallel two 2.2nF gettting 4.4nF. Or 2.2nF + 1.8nF (if you find that cap) and getting 4nF.

      Delete
    2. Ahh I see! Didn't know it'll work that way! Thanks Elijah! Appreciate!

      Delete
    3. 6.8 and 10 in series gets you 4, worked for me

      Delete
  30. Is there any way that we can use SPDT switches instead of DPDT? If yes, how do I go about wiring it? And if no, is there any modifications I can do with a veroboard to make it work with an SPDT? Sorry if it's a stupid question hahaha

    ReplyDelete
  31. Does the orientation of the clipping LEDs matter? Can the 1st LED after the switch attach to the positive leg?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. It doesn't matter. One LED goes one way and the other goes the opposite way, which means both sides of the waveform will be clipped.

      Delete
  32. This is a wonderful sounding box! Just what I was looking for - this is my second build and was definitely a challenge getting everything into the enclosure. One beginner question for you all: for the voice switch, the diode selection is very noticeable; however the LED selection is indistinguishable from the center (i.e. no voice) selection. I grabbed my multimeter and after poking around it seems like LED side of the switch is grounded: if I touch pin 2 with one lead and the enclosure with the other with a continuity tester, an LED lights up and I get a "beep" from my tester. From what I can tell, I don't have anything grounding this out. Any tips? Could I have screwed up the jack cramming everything in the enclosure, ruining the internals of the switch? Or is the effect of the LEDs really that subtle (I was listening at very low volume - sleeping kids). Thanks!

    ReplyDelete
  33. Hi I'm a beginner in this field, but I would like to start experimenting. can you help me with the complete list of components ... identify the components on the pcb - resistors, capacitors, diodes (type and model)
    Thanks

    ReplyDelete
  34. I would find it quite nice to have Two Drive Pots and use the foot switch to switch between these two. So you could have one always on and set the other for more drive when activated. How would one build this?

    ReplyDelete
  35. This comment has been removed by the author.

    ReplyDelete
  36. My second successful build and it is sounding great. Thank you lvlark!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Nice job. You’re about to find out how addictive it is! :o)

      Delete