Here's a collection of vero (stripboard) and tagboard guitar and bass effect layouts that we have put together covering many classic and popular effects in growing numbers. Many of these have been posted on freestompboxes.org, so check that site out for great discussions on building your own effect pedals. Enjoy the builds and please also visit us on Facebook and Twitter
Another great project by David Rolo from Madbean's forum.
You can find all infos about this pedal here:
http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=17253.0
Thanks to Hozy31 for verifying it!
06/11/2015 Layout updated: inverted rotary switch pins.
Very nice. I have been wanting to do a tap tempo and a Tremolo .Your awesome Alex! I cant wait to get it going. I built a swamp thang/tremadillo for a friend ot has a nice warmth to it. this sounds pretty warm as well.
Great work Alex, however, it needs pointing out that you MUST buy a pre-programmed TAPFLO chip for this build, unless you have the knowledge and the equipment to programme it yourself. If you just buy an "empty" TAPFLO chip, this pedal WILL NOT WORK!
Yes you are right Alex. I thought it was worth mentioning to anyone who was not familiar with this circuit, and had not read the Madbean Forum page first.
So to ANYONE reading this, who has not come across this great pedal before, PLEASE READ THE FORUM PAGE AND BUILD INSTRUCTIONS ON MADBEAN (LINKED ABOVE), BEFORE YOU START BUILDING. It contains all the info you will need to build it successfully.
You could also have a look here: http://www.davidrolo.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/Twin-Peaks-Tremolo-2.1-build-doc.pdf (Hopefully David won't get too annoyed)
I don't think so. All 6 pots connect directly to the TAPFLO, and the TAPFLO generates all the temolo sound functions. Looking at the schematic, I reckon you could easily omit or bypass the tap-tempo function, but you still need the TAPFLO chip.
I thought it was TAPFLO for ages. I think it's just the human mind creating a word that is normal for us. I don't have dyslexia, but for ages it just felt wrong to say TAPLFO. DANG IT TAPLFO.
This thing is awesome, I love the demo video. Seems like I need to build this. I already built the harmonic tremolo designed by 1776 effects and love it, but I think I can sell it now :D
Everything fit well and it fired right up in my test jig without issue.
Sounds like everything is working similarly to the video, although my switch positions are in reverse.
I had assumed the diagram of the switch on the layout was showing pins facing towards you, must be pins facing away. Based on that switch diagram, if you want the switch to work like the video, with the switch fully clockwise, you'll want pins A and 1 shorted and pins B and 5 shorted.
Here is a picture of the corrected vero for the switch:
For those who have built this layout, did you need to use shielded wiring?
I'm getting a ticking sound. The ticking sound gets louder with the shape control counter clockwise. Was hoping boxing it would help with the ticking, it didn't.
I currently have the input, output, TAP switch and TAP LED wires all running together down the right top side of the board. Maybe an issue? (I did have some ticking in my test jig too, with the input/output wires fairly well separated from the TAP switch wires, so maybe not?)
Here is a picture: https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipNMAy9eS9Dg3KcEPkR-RjeSkTA768-LRhuwMECP
(Yes, I know I somehow goofed the input wiring on the 3PDT, will have to fix that tomorrow too! How does one make such a silly mistake like that after building so many pedals???)
In the build doc it said C1 may be needed to counter this ticking. Is shielded wiring needed too?
Thanks Michael! I've updated the layout. I haven't built it myself but I usually get ticking when the rate pot is too close to the Output (don't know if this is the case). Shielded wires may help.
Thanks, so with the new switch numbering on the board, the switch diagram shows the pins facing you and fully CW (treble only mode) switch pins A & 4 are shorted and pins B & 8 are shorted.
I'll need to update the mini switch vero I posted to match the new numbering on the board.
Make room so a small 3x3 chunk of the board can be removed at the top corners.(3x3 lead holes) This will allow the board to slide up between the screw stays and will add just a little more room down below.
Not necessary as everything fit comfortably in a 1590BB, and the mini switch will fit under the main board with some insulation if desired, but the extra room may be helpful if you don't want the switch under the board, and want a little more room between the rotary switch and the stomp switches.
Here is how I will do it on my next build.
Move the Tone 3 cut 1 space to the right, move top left 15k resistor 3 columns to the right. This will allow cutting out a 2x2 or 3x3 chunk from the top left corner of the board.
As is, you can cut out a 2x2 from the top right corner. But if you move the high pass trimmer, the cut underneath, the top right link and top right 100R all to the left 1 column each, this will allow cutting out a 3x3 chunk from top right corner of the board.
I'm building one at the moment, I still need to wire it. I could not open your image of the rotary vero so I've also made a layout and am orientating the parts to fit in a 1590BB:
I used VTL5C1s and mine ticks and thumps in square mode. I tried all of your suggestions (thanks so much for the info, btw), but it's pretty strong still. I built two of these on David's PCBs and they don't tick in any of the modes. I'm stumped! I'll have to mess around some more later on.
Aisha, sorry for the delay. Had a pretty bad bike accident and haven't been able to walk. Will probably be laid up a couple more weeks. I'll let you know when I am back at it. Mike
It turns out I had a bad power supply adapter! I plugged it into a different one and it didnt thump at all in any mode. I proceeded to try all of my 9v adapters on it, and it definitely likes some more than others. Got some thumping with one but nothing like that first one I was using. I guess this is one way to weed out the bad power supplies in my life.
I'm convinced my build had 2 issues causing ticking. I resolved both as follows:
1. C1 (C22 on the schematic) 47n was enough to resolve the predominant ticking. 2. Shielding both input and output wires. This resolved a more faint ticking that was unaffected by higher values for C1 (C22).
Picture of my ghetto shielding (aluminum foil) on page 7 here: http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=17253.90
It is now dead quite and sounds awesome!
I ended up using GL5516 LDRs and super bright white LEDs. Since I used super brights, I also lowered the volume trimmer to 10k so I could dial in unity a bit easier.
Hey! hi how is it? I don´t have a good english but i understund a few things. I have a question about this pedal, it´s about the TAP LFO. How can I prgram it? Wich plataform do I use? Do I need a software? If yes, could someone help me to program this TAP LFO? Thanks Guys
If I use the standard tremolo mode (black), there is some high pitched white noise. I used the trimpots to get rid of it, but now the other modes are pretty dark tone-wise. Do you know how I can fix this?
Also, when the rotary knob is used to switch among the modes, is it supposed to "thump" when switching?
Hey all, I can't seem to get this guy to work. I'm trying with the new TAPLFO and made the modifications suggested above.
All user side potentiometers and tap tempo footswitch work from how they change the tap tempo LED. The high pass, low pass, and volume trimmers work just fine. If I change the self-rolled vactrols myself, aiming a high power LED towards or away from the photoresistor, I can hear the volume changes. My problem is that the LEDs don't change on their own!
I have both filter trimmers set low. Interestingly, I can "manually" make the tremolo happen with the offset knob. Classic changes both LEDs, Brown face alters one or the other, etc.
This must be a connection issue with the TAPLFO to the LEDs/5532. Can anyone verify that the above mods are correct for the V3 board?
Well, I got the LEDs to work. I missed the addition of two resistors. Now I get no sound, or I'm getting extremely distorted stuff. Weirdly enough, putting lateral pressure on the bottom 78L05 fixed the low pass tremolo, but when I took it out of its socket to directly solder it, nothing works now. I'll post voltages soon.
Unfortunately not. I completely retried this and got lost in the wire mess. I'm probably gonna wait for a PCB or else get a PCB for another layout that uses the same vactrols and TAPLFO chip (apparently Madbean is coming out with something very soon).
To Alex: Well, the TAPLFO2 is no more available. There is now only the new version 3C with other pins and without one resistor and the crystal (and 16 bit waves instead of 8 bit). Is it possible for you to make a new vero design with the new connections? It would be very nice and so much more fail safe than picking the changes from the comments above (and they are not really verified). Thanks!
I just started this build the other day and am needing some clarification. I bought the Electric Druid TAPLFO 3C, is this going to require the same modifications as the TapLFO 3D. and if it do I have to add a link in-between where the 10k resistors were or do pins 8 and 4 no longer need to be connected to the rest of the circuit.
Update: So I just finished this build. and using the mods listed by Elias and Alex I was able to get the TAPLFO 3C chip to work in the pedal. It sounds better than I thought it would. I just need to spend sometime getting the trimmers calibrated. Very happy with this build
Very nice. I have been wanting to do a tap tempo and a Tremolo .Your awesome Alex! I cant wait to get it going. I built a swamp thang/tremadillo for a friend ot has a nice warmth to it. this sounds pretty warm as well.
ReplyDeleteGreat work Alex, however, it needs pointing out that you MUST buy a pre-programmed TAPFLO chip for this build, unless you have the knowledge and the equipment to programme it yourself. If you just buy an "empty" TAPFLO chip, this pedal WILL NOT WORK!
ReplyDeleteGood point! I've assumed people would have understood that by reading the Madbean's forum page. Thanks for pointing that out. Better safe than sorry!
ReplyDeleteYes you are right Alex. I thought it was worth mentioning to anyone who was not familiar with this circuit, and had not read the Madbean Forum page first.
DeleteSo to ANYONE reading this, who has not come across this great pedal before, PLEASE READ THE FORUM PAGE AND BUILD INSTRUCTIONS ON MADBEAN (LINKED ABOVE), BEFORE YOU START BUILDING.
It contains all the info you will need to build it successfully.
You could also have a look here:
Deletehttp://www.davidrolo.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/Twin-Peaks-Tremolo-2.1-build-doc.pdf
(Hopefully David won't get too annoyed)
I do not need the tap tempo feature on this pedal - could I just omit the TAPFLO chip and it's associated circuitry?
ReplyDeleteI don't think so. All 6 pots connect directly to the TAPFLO, and the TAPFLO generates all the temolo sound functions. Looking at the schematic, I reckon you could easily omit or bypass the tap-tempo function, but you still need the TAPFLO chip.
DeleteAnd I have just realised that I have been referring to this as a TAPFLO chip instead of a TAPLFO chip. What a dufus! Damn you dyslexia!
DeleteI thought it was TAPFLO for ages. I think it's just the human mind creating a word that is normal for us. I don't have dyslexia, but for ages it just felt wrong to say TAPLFO. DANG IT TAPLFO.
DeleteIt's about time this place had another godzilla-sized veroboard. Nice!
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteThis thing is awesome, I love the demo video. Seems like I need to build this. I already built the harmonic tremolo designed by 1776 effects and love it, but I think I can sell it now :D
ReplyDeleteCould anyone point me in the direction of where I can purchase pre-programmed TAPLFOs
ReplyDeletehttp://electricdruid.net/tap-tempo-lfo-taplfo-v2d/ :)
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteFantastic layout Alex!
ReplyDeleteEverything fit well and it fired right up in my test jig without issue.
Sounds like everything is working similarly to the video, although my switch
positions are in reverse.
I had assumed the diagram of the switch on the layout was showing pins facing towards you, must be pins facing away. Based on that switch diagram, if you want the switch to work like the video, with the switch fully clockwise, you'll want pins A and 1 shorted and pins B and 5 shorted.
Here is a picture of the corrected vero for the switch:
https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipMPoebrauTJAM1YGcSpcr5sg-tkSGegLFP2g5hf
For those who have built this layout, did you need to use shielded wiring?
I'm getting a ticking sound. The ticking sound gets louder with the shape control counter clockwise. Was hoping boxing it would help with the ticking, it didn't.
I currently have the input, output, TAP switch and TAP LED wires all running together down the right top side of the board. Maybe an issue? (I did have some ticking in my test jig too, with the input/output wires fairly well separated from the TAP switch wires, so maybe not?)
Here is a picture:
https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipNMAy9eS9Dg3KcEPkR-RjeSkTA768-LRhuwMECP
(Yes, I know I somehow goofed the input wiring on the 3PDT, will have to fix that tomorrow too! How does one make such a silly mistake like that after building so many pedals???)
In the build doc it said C1 may be needed to counter this ticking. Is shielded wiring needed too?
Thanks Michael!
DeleteI've updated the layout.
I haven't built it myself but I usually get ticking when the rate pot is too close to the Output (don't know if this is the case).
Shielded wires may help.
Thanks, so with the new switch numbering on the board, the switch diagram shows the pins facing you and fully CW (treble only mode) switch pins A & 4 are shorted and pins B & 8 are shorted.
DeleteI'll need to update the mini switch vero I posted to match the new numbering on the board.
Correct.
Deleteok, I've updated the numbering on the mini switch vero.
Deletehttps://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipPt6pUMgd009v3pyzSJKo7kx3_7dyI5XOsnzxLA
Minor layout suggestion:
ReplyDeleteMake room so a small 3x3 chunk of the board can be removed at the top corners.(3x3 lead holes) This will allow the board to slide up between the screw stays and will add just a little more room down below.
Not necessary as everything fit comfortably in a 1590BB, and the mini switch will fit under the main board with some insulation if desired, but the extra room may be helpful if you don't want the switch under the board, and want a little more room between the rotary switch and the stomp switches.
Here is how I will do it on my next build.
Move the Tone 3 cut 1 space to the right, move top left 15k resistor 3 columns to the right. This will allow cutting out a 2x2 or 3x3 chunk from the top left corner of the board.
As is, you can cut out a 2x2 from the top right corner. But if you move the high pass trimmer, the cut underneath, the top right link and top right 100R all to the left 1 column each, this will allow cutting out a 3x3 chunk from top right corner of the board.
Haven't been able to eliminate the ticking when using the square wave shape.
ReplyDeleteDepth fully CW, Shape on "square wave" (10 o'clock) and the other controls at noon. Both T3 and T4 are fully CCW.
It almost goes away with a 2u2 NP for C1 and the depth control backed off before noon.
I've tried another TAPLFO, and swapped the NE5532 with a TL062 and TL022. No improvement.
The rest of the settings sound great, similar to the video.
Does anyone else have this ticking issue?
Bump :0)
DeleteHas anybody built a tick-free one of these?
Would like to compare settings if possible.
Thanks
I'm building one at the moment, I still need to wire it. I could not open your image of the rotary vero so I've also made a layout and am orientating the parts to fit in a 1590BB:
ReplyDeletehttp://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn175/H_A_M/DIY/Twin%20Peaks%20Tap%20Tempo%20Tremolo/Mini%202P4T%20vero%20board_zpsly0f2twt.png
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn175/H_A_M/DIY/Twin%20Peaks%20Tap%20Tempo%20Tremolo/TPeaks%20Vero%201_zpsnkwphrlx.jpg
I hope to finish it soon
Nice.
DeleteHope to compare notes as my pedal sounds great, pretty much just like the video until I engage the square and up ramp shapes.
Not sure if it's a layout issue, component issue, wiring issue or simply that I don't yet have any VTL5C1s.
I used VTL5C1s and mine ticks and thumps in square mode. I tried all of your suggestions (thanks so much for the info, btw), but it's pretty strong still. I built two of these on David's PCBs and they don't tick in any of the modes. I'm stumped! I'll have to mess around some more later on.
DeleteWow, perfect timing as I have another one about 85% complete. This time I'm using the 5C1s too.
DeleteI'll keep you posted on how this one goes.
Yes, please do! ,
DeleteAisha, sorry for the delay. Had a pretty bad bike accident and haven't been able to walk. Will probably be laid up a couple more weeks. I'll let you know when I am back at it.
DeleteMike
It turns out I had a bad power supply adapter! I plugged it into a different one and it didnt thump at all in any mode. I proceeded to try all of my 9v adapters on it, and it definitely likes some more than others. Got some thumping with one but nothing like that first one I was using. I guess this is one way to weed out the bad power supplies in my life.
DeleteI hope you have a speedy recovery, btw.
Delete"Square" and "Up Ramp" ticking solved!
ReplyDeleteI'm convinced my build had 2 issues causing ticking. I resolved both as follows:
1. C1 (C22 on the schematic) 47n was enough to resolve the predominant ticking.
2. Shielding both input and output wires. This resolved a more faint ticking that was unaffected by higher values for C1 (C22).
Picture of my ghetto shielding (aluminum foil) on page 7 here: http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=17253.90
It is now dead quite and sounds awesome!
I ended up using GL5516 LDRs and super bright white LEDs. Since I used super brights, I also lowered the volume trimmer to 10k so I could dial in unity a bit easier.
Is this layout using two 78L05s or is one supposed to be a 78L06?
ReplyDeleteAh. I see that he has a newer build doc with a new schem that uses 78L05. Never mind.
DeleteHey! hi how is it? I don´t have a good english but i understund a few things. I have a question about this pedal, it´s about the TAP LFO. How can I prgram it? Wich plataform do I use? Do I need a software? If yes, could someone help me to program this TAP LFO? Thanks Guys
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteIf I use the standard tremolo mode
ReplyDelete(black), there is some high pitched white noise. I used the trimpots
to get rid of it, but now the other modes are pretty dark tone-wise.
Do you know how I can fix this?
Also, when the rotary knob is used to switch among the modes, is it
supposed to "thump" when switching?
Thanks for your help.
If anyone is building this with the new TapLFO 3D chip there's some minor changes that needs to be made.
ReplyDelete1.Remove Crystal and the two 22p caps next to it.
2.Remove 10k on Pin 4
3.Remove 10k on Pin 8
And since the new chip has 16 waveforms (2x8), you can put an SPST switch on pin 3 to ground to alternate between the two sets.
This comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteHey all, I can't seem to get this guy to work. I'm trying with the new TAPLFO and made the modifications suggested above.
ReplyDeleteAll user side potentiometers and tap tempo footswitch work from how they change the tap tempo LED. The high pass, low pass, and volume trimmers work just fine. If I change the self-rolled vactrols myself, aiming a high power LED towards or away from the photoresistor, I can hear the volume changes. My problem is that the LEDs don't change on their own!
I have both filter trimmers set low. Interestingly, I can "manually" make the tremolo happen with the offset knob. Classic changes both LEDs, Brown face alters one or the other, etc.
This must be a connection issue with the TAPLFO to the LEDs/5532. Can anyone verify that the above mods are correct for the V3 board?
Well, I got the LEDs to work. I missed the addition of two resistors. Now I get no sound, or I'm getting extremely distorted stuff. Weirdly enough, putting lateral pressure on the bottom 78L05 fixed the low pass tremolo, but when I took it out of its socket to directly solder it, nothing works now. I'll post voltages soon.
DeleteAnything new to your unit? You got it fixed?
DeleteUnfortunately not. I completely retried this and got lost in the wire mess. I'm probably gonna wait for a PCB or else get a PCB for another layout that uses the same vactrols and TAPLFO chip (apparently Madbean is coming out with something very soon).
DeleteTo Alex: Well, the TAPLFO2 is no more available. There is now only the new version 3C with other pins and without one resistor and the crystal (and 16 bit waves instead of 8 bit). Is it possible for you to make a new vero design with the new connections? It would be very nice and so much more fail safe than picking the changes from the comments above (and they are not really verified). Thanks!
ReplyDeleteElias Mellberg's suggestions should be correct. Pins 2, 7 & 8 stay unconnected but I think Pin 6 should go to ground.
DeleteYepp yepp, but Grounding pin 6 for the Smoothing filter is to prevent clicks and noise though.
DeleteI just started this build the other day and am needing some clarification. I bought the Electric Druid TAPLFO 3C, is this going to require the same modifications as the TapLFO 3D. and if it do I have to add a link in-between where the 10k resistors were or do pins 8 and 4 no longer need to be connected to the rest of the circuit.
ReplyDeleteUpdate: So I just finished this build. and using the mods listed by Elias and Alex I was able to get the TAPLFO 3C chip to work in the pedal. It sounds better than I thought it would. I just need to spend sometime getting the trimmers calibrated. Very happy with this build
Delete