Monday, 11 November 2013

Mutron Micro V

As Javi liked the idea of the simplified controls I thought it would be worth adding a layout for the original pedal too.  It may seem strange with it being a "stripped down" Kraken, but it actually worked out a column wider using the Kraken layout as a template because removing the Attack pot means a resistor needs to go from the 3rd to the 15th row, but what can you do? :o)  Anyway the option is here if anyone wants to build this instead.






Posted by at 14:05
Tags: , , , ,

35 comments:

  1. JaviCAP11 November 2013 at 15:02

    Thanks Mark!

    I just swaped some values, linked the Decay rows and... used an "aereal" wire to jump the Attack, it looks ugly, but no prob, I'll use this one on my next build.

    This evening have to purchase some Retex RM 4 enclosures, will fit great in this pedal!

    BR

    ReplyDelete
  2. JaviCAP11 November 2013 at 23:48

    And here's my new baby, hope you like it!

    https://scontent-a-ams.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/1422531_567957036609482_1237609398_n.jpg

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. IvIark11 November 2013 at 23:59

      Haha awesome :o)

      Delete
    2. tom k12 November 2013 at 02:46

      Javi, where did you get that enclosure? It's awesome.

      Delete
    3. Mojo32112 November 2013 at 04:56

      OMG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

      (and I hate typing omg)

      Delete
    4. JaviCAP12 November 2013 at 08:03

      Thanks mates!

      The enclosure is a Retex RM4 (spanish brand). I purchased these boxes at Digital SA, a local store in Madrid.

      This is the website:

      http://www.digital-sa.com/tienda/product_info.php?products_id=4137

      but I don't know if they sell international, you can drop 'em some lines or if you're interested (and don't know spanish :P) I can ask about.

      BR

      Delete
  3. dexxyy1 December 2013 at 23:43

    You can tag this, though I guess it was a stick really. As the hi/lo switch only uses lugs 1 & 2 of both poles I presume I'm ok to use a dpst switch?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. IvIark2 December 2013 at 10:22

      Awesome thanks matey. And yes you could use a single throw switch, I always tend to show doubles simply because I've found they are much cheaper and more readily available, so you may as well have the unused throw.

      Delete
  4. Zombie1116 March 2014 at 21:54

    Uhmm a little bit confused about the dpdt wiring? Are A and B the first 2 rows? (So the 3rd unused one would be C?)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Unknown27 March 2014 at 21:13

      I am also confused about the switch wiring. Did you ever figure it out? The switch pole labeling is inconsistent with the guide mentioned on the components page (http://mirosol.kapsi.fi/varasto/boxes_other/pots_switches.png). Which for me is a major crutch.

      Delete
    2. IvIark27 March 2014 at 21:40

      The schematic just showed the poles as A and B and so:

      A1 --- B1
      A2 --- B2
      A3 --- B3

      instead of

      1 --- 4
      2 --- 5
      3 --- 6

      If you remember that a changeover pole always has 3 contacts, then you should be able to interpret different numberings of the same thing.

      And Zombie11, it's a DPDT toggle switch so there is no 3rd unused pole. This isn't the stomp switch, it's a Hi/Lo toggle switch. The stomp is wired as per the Offboard page as is usually the case.

      Delete
  5. Boris27 March 2014 at 15:28

    This comment has been removed by the author.

    ReplyDelete
  6. Unknown27 March 2014 at 20:59

    Can I use a NE5532P Dual Low-Noise Operational Amp (pedal parts plus) or a RC4558P op amp instead of the lm1458? If both, which would be best?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. IvIark27 March 2014 at 21:42

      I'd socket it and try a few then you can choose the one that sounds best with your gear

      Delete
  7. pearl blues4 October 2014 at 17:48

    Hi, I've just built this but get no sound when the pedal is turned on. I'm trying to eliminate the obvious things and the first one is that I've used 2N5088's instead of the 5089's and 5087. Would this make much difference? Or do they have a different pinout?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. pearl blues4 October 2014 at 18:05

      ...Also I haven't used the wire for LED+ as the LED was connected via the millenium bypass

      Delete
    2. JaviCAP4 October 2014 at 18:14

      2N5087 is PNP, how you expect the circuit to work if using non compatible components??

      J.

      Delete
    3. pearl blues4 October 2014 at 19:17

      OK so I'll have to find some 5087's and 5089's. Thanks for the info :)

      Delete
    4. pearl blues4 October 2014 at 21:30

      I've put in a 2N3906 and 2x 2N3904's but all I get now is a constant electrical buzz. Will keep working on it to find where the problem/mistake is. Any help will be much appreciated.

      Delete
    5. pearl blues5 October 2014 at 08:52

      I realized I had a dodgy LM1458, so now I'm getting signal in one position of the mode switch and not the other. It's not going 'wah' though, just a static tone...

      Delete
    6. pearl blues6 October 2014 at 22:56

      I got it to work in the end, made a couple of schoolboy errors... missed out the 100pF cap, and put in a 680k resistor instead of a 6k8 doh! I recommend trying a few different transistors and IC's (for IC 2). For IC2 I've used an OPA2134, Q1 an MPSA18, Q2 2N5088 and Q3 2N3906. With these I get just the right amount of gain and attack and, well... attitude! Thanks for the layout, and for your great site :D

      Delete
  8. akaman9 October 2014 at 11:45

    Hello everyone,
    I would like to realize the micro MuTron v, but the problem is that I am lm13700.
    I can not find a diagram with this one.
    might get an update of the Shema with lm13700 please?
    I try to do it myself but I'm a beginner and I'm afraid of being wrong ...
    thank you all for your help ..

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. IvIark9 October 2014 at 14:47

      Why don't you just get a CA3080? They're a couple of dollars each, a very similar price to the LM13700

      http://www.ebay.com/itm/390635290711

      If you really have to use the LM13700 you could use this adapter board and make the connections required to the holes where the opamp is shown to be soldered

      LM13700 > CA3080 adapter

      Delete
    2. akaman12 October 2014 at 01:24

      ha ok! thank you very much for the link to ebay, it's true that it is not expensive.
      but, I would test the lm13700 with the adapter, but I do not understand the mechanics of this one .the 4 lm13700 connects where on the circuit?
      desolated for writing, I'm French and I use a translator ...

      Delete
    3. IvIark12 October 2014 at 01:51

      It connects to where pin 4 of the CA3080 would connect to the board, as per the CA3080 diagram on the adapter layout

      1----8
      2----7
      3----6
      4----5

      Delete
    4. marshal210713 June 2020 at 19:12

      lm13700 is basicaly 2 ca3080 in one enclosure, look for the diagrams of each chip and you will see how to connect them.

      Delete
  9. Danny14 January 2015 at 17:05

    Is it possible to add an effect loop send/return in this project? I would to do my first envelope filter pedal and this project is ok for my small experience. I would to add an effect loop like the Q-tron Plus EHX but I don't know where to link the tips of the jacks. Thanks

    ReplyDelete
  10. Unknown24 February 2015 at 16:16

    Hi I wondered if it was a good idea to power it with 18v or a terrible mistake? THX

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. IvIark24 February 2015 at 22:15

      Well it won't blow up, but whether it sounds good or not is another matter. No harm trying though.

      Delete
  11. Unknown9 September 2016 at 22:53

    Hi there, is it possible to get a copy of the schematic you used for this one? I need to measure some voltages. Thanks!

    ReplyDelete
  12. Unknown10 September 2016 at 02:29

    I went ahead and measured my voltages on ics and transistors, so if that helps at all i'll take anything I can get. I checked with the multimeter for grounding issues, power, and solder bridges so I don't know what else to check. Thanks!!

    IC 1:
    0 0
    .78 .78
    .78 1.49
    .78 1.36

    IC 2
    .67 .79
    .66 .57
    .78 .71
    0 .78

    Q1:
    C: 9.47
    B: 8.7
    E: 5.8

    Q2:
    C:1.35
    B:.71
    E:.78

    Q3:
    C:9.46
    B: 8.80
    E:.78

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Unknown10 September 2016 at 02:30

      To clarify, I only have bypassed sound, nothing coming out when engaged.

      Delete
  13. akaman14 November 2017 at 17:14

    is it possible to have the schema with lm 13700? I do not understand the adapter ... thank you

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. mirosol15 November 2017 at 14:30

      There you go. http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_microv_sc.pdf
      +m

      Delete
  14. The Baron4 November 2018 at 21:42

    I built this and it works for the most part except I get a steady clicking (or popping) sound when the effect is engaged. I've found through trouble shooting that the removing the pot gets rid of the sound and if the pot is all the way down it is also gone. I've also swapped out my ICs with the same value to rule them out as well. I'm relatively new to pedal building so any insight is appreciated. Thanks.

    ReplyDelete

Subscribe to: Post Comments (Atom)