We suggest using a TLC2272 for the dual op-amp. The TLC2272 is rated for low-noise and rail-to-rail output, which will offer the highest possible clean boost and dynamic range. The NE5532 is another good choice, but a TL072 can also be used with decent results.
The Mid Shift switch (SW1 on the schematic) selects the center frequency of the midrange dip in the response. The center frequency is moved from around 700Hz (Marshall/Vox) down to 400Hz (Fender) in the HI and LO settings, respectively.
For Fender-style curves, the Mid Shift is placed in the LO setting (closed). To replicate Marshall-style curves, switch the Mid Shift to the HI position (open). Set the Mid control between 12:00 and 5:00 for traditional Marshall settings, with lower settings providing additional flexibility. For a Vox-style response, keep the Mid Shift in the HI setting and set the Mids control fixed at 10:00 and move the Bass between 7:00 and 12:00.
A "flat" equalizer position is set with the Bass and Treble both at minimum, and the Mid control at its midpoint. When Bass and Treble are fully cut, the Mid knob acts as an additional Level control, which is a familiar characteristic of the Fender tonestack.
I've thrown out the previous version as this one is simply better. And definitely verified. There's quite a lot of gain coming from the circuit, so some squeels and noise from the unboxed circuits are expected.
Geiri's demo of his awesome Double Tonemender!
Satch...
ReplyDeletelike THE Satch?
A very nice one as all Runoffgroove designs. Very useful and flexible.
ReplyDeleteI love it before or after a fuzz or an overdrives.
Acts like a versatile booster or like a post pedal EQ.
Never used it to get a specific tonestack behavior, though.
http://fuzzquest.blogspot.co.il/2012/05/from-darkest-night-to-brightest-light.html
Very nice one!
ReplyDeleteMay I know that if it could be used as a clean preamp pedal in my chain?
definitely can. A very nice preamp with a lot of options.
DeleteHaha! Thanks a lot Miro!!!!Happy holidays to you too!
ReplyDeleteMiro! i've checked the schematic and noticed that the 1M resistor to the left of the ic should be 1 row down, to the 3rd pin of the ic, also, the right 100uf cap should get 9v, and it's going to treble 3!
ReplyDeleteThanks. I'll check/fix it once i get home from work.
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You were correct. Now fixed. Did you built it?
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Has anyone verified this? I'm about to put two of these into one box soon!
ReplyDeleteApparently not. Current version of the layout *seems* solid though... :)
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I might lay my hands on this one tomorrow night if you havent already. Thinking of stacking this with either the TC preamp booster and/or the mid booster that were up here earlier.
DeleteTag it, i´ve built it and it's just awesome. It has a great contol to make you go anywere you want with your standard setup. Thanks!
ReplyDeleteThank you!
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I'm having some weird problems but I'm just gonna have a better look at the whole thing.
DeleteApparently you didn't have that big problems with it after all :)
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Haha my silly little problem was that I was using the first layout, as in before you corrected it. I had it saved in my iPad and then I realised that you had fixed it so I quickly swapped a few components around and it worked perfectly!
ReplyDeleteI gotta say, this thing sounds so good! It's almost as if you can transform your amp (or tone rather) into two totally different amps.
Hi can you help me my circuit has lot of noise specially in treble pot if i move my hand on it it make noice. Your one is very silent.
DeleteThank you
I am using ROG layout provided on official web not this stripboard layout.
DeleteThank you.
Can anyone tell me which specific frequencies this thing controls? Especially the bass control?
ReplyDeleteWhat's up with the demo of this one? Is there two of those circuits that are identical in that box or what?
ReplyDeleteJust built this but don't get sound from it at all. there has to be a bridge on there or something :(
Whay about the first link on the left???? This one bypasses the 100k resistor.........
ReplyDeleteSeems like my error. I'll revise the layout once i'm back home...
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Just redrew the whole thing and got it down to 17x11. I'll be posting it once i'm home...
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I removed that link and now it works very fine, beautiful tone and no noise. The only issue is a "whistle" if I crank it all the way up wuth the mid shift in the high position, but it's quite usable. I put it at the end of my chain and it makes my overdrives and distortion box sing as the were really plugged into a big Marshall or Vox amp, while I'm running them into a little 5Watts tube head. I hope you didn't reshuffle everything inside or I'll have to rebuild the whole thing......
ReplyDeletePictures coming soon.
I'm not sure if that fixes it to the original spec, plus this layout still uses my old set of component images. It's fairly low part count circuit, so rebuilding it may not be a bad idea after all. And you can keep the pots with their wires and just reattach them to the new board. :) Sad thing is that i can't post the image until tomorrow due to bug in DIYLC with 10'' screens on linux...
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Rob: I updated the original and added the one i redrew yesterday. Both *should* be ok now...
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Ok, thank you. I've fixed mine and now it works! I can still see a minor error on your 1st-fixed layout..... According to ROG schematic the positive lug of the 2nd 100uF electrolitic cap should connect to the third row the same column, ain't it?
ReplyDeleteMiro
ReplyDeleteOn your fixed version of the original layout on the bare board cuts and links part of the image the right hand link and the cut next to it is 1 hole to the right compared to the top part image.
I only noticed it when i was populating the board (i work left to right).
James
Fixed. That one was on the original too...
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Finished! Thank you for this layout, here's a picture:
ReplyDeletehttp://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff176/pm7300/01-1_zpse5b69c15.jpg
Thanks for the pic! Amazing work!
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hello sir mirosol? I tried this yesterday with TWO VERSIONS layout. there is only the sound of screeching, whether all components ter harnessed, maybe tomorrow I try the original layout, congratulations to you guys who managed to make Runoffgroove Tonemender
Deletecheers :)
Both are verified, so there could be a short or some other error on your build. What voltages are you getting at the IC pins?
Delete+m
great preamp! I only experience a poor response on bass frequencies, cold be possible to increase bass gain? seems that it work on very low frequencies
ReplyDeletePaolo
You could play around with values of the lower 22n and that 47n.
Delete+m
Did you use all the correct values of components (or at least close)? I've built a few of these and the bass knob as always worked very well. It adds heaps of bass when turned up.
DeleteAll correct except some little resistor value. I have used NE5532 IC
Deletesid you use the first or the second layout?
DeleteI used the first one. Didn't even know of the second one.
Deleteis the second layout verified?
ReplyDeleteNot sure... It's fairly low part count, so you could try it out. I'm pretty confident about it.
Delete+m
No prob, ill give it a go one of these days. Any idea if I could replace the level control with a resistor to get unity gain?
DeleteIm also guessing that i could ignore the switch if i want to just get the High setting?
DeleteThe smaller layout works! but... im getting quite a loud increase in the noise. Is there a filter cap in this circuit?? having a glance at the layout, i didnt see any
DeleteAnyone else have noise issues with the circuit?
DeleteListening to Geiri's demo, there is no noise issues.. hmmm..
Deleteim at a lost here lol.
Deletejust built the compact version, i'm also getting quite a lot of noise... any ideas someone? NE5532 used
Deletei might try out the 1st one too and see how it goes...
I've just built and been trying to debug the smaller vero layout. I was getting clicking or oscilliation whenever I turned any of the pots up, but it would only happen if I hit the strings slightly harder than *soft*.
DeleteI re-wired the pots and that seemed to help, but I was also getting a lot of distortion, like flat out tubescreamer distortion.
I pulled the TLO74 out that I had in there and replaced it with a 4558D I had lying around for s**ts and giggles, and that seems to have gotten rid of the clicking, but I still have loads of distortion.
Having said that, it doesn't sound as if the tone pots affect anything. The mid shift switch isn't noticable, and turning the level down actually increases the amount of dirt I'm hearing. I've done something wrong but I can't ork it out...
Find and use The TLC2272 op-amp. No distortion with them. And current is 2-3mA!!! Less, than LED
DeleteDid you ever find a R value to replace the Level pot and just have unity-level output? I'd like to put this in another box before that effect.
DeleteWould this work with bass guitar?
ReplyDeleteTREBLE is giving a shrill whistle when open ..... what to do?
ReplyDeleteBuilt this today and i´m very impressed by the flexibility of this little sucker;-). I used a 500KA as treble pot, to my ears the taper is much smoother than the 500KB.... Anybody tried different op-amps? I put in a 5532, any experience with others....?
ReplyDeletetia
Heiko
hi, can you add this circuit in a random pedal in tha same way as you do with the bmp tonestack?
ReplyDeleteDon't see no reason why not.
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hi all ! actually this is my first build. I want to know if i need an isolated dc power jack and isolated jack 6.3 for this.
ReplyDeletethanks for the help.
You need an isolated dc jack, but you dont need an isolated input or output jack.
ReplyDeleteHope thats useful
Cheers
Dave
thanks ! that's useful.
DeleteAny1 can tell me if i can use this as a guitar->pedal->power amp? the power amp has no preamp in it, or i have to put something in between to increase the signal so my amp can read it properly. Thanks.
ReplyDeleteCan I run this off 18v or more as long as caps and what nots are rated accordingly? Thinking about putting this in a Tiny Giant Amp build. The amp runs off of 19.5v
ReplyDeleteWas the more compact layout ever verified? I'm getting noise issues as well (tone pots seem to function though) and I can't seem to make sense of the 2 different layouts by comparison.
ReplyDeleteIf it wasn't it is now. Just finished building one for myself. No issues. Fired up in the frist try without any noise. Without being boxed, it does squeel with all the controls maxed. But that also means that it is loud as F.
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Thanks. Sorry, I tried to leave a follow-up comment last night (and another this morning), but for some reason I can't seem to reply to comments (the page just refreshes after I hit publish, but my comment isn't there).
DeleteAnyway, I had a sneaking suspicion the noise was coming from this circuit being unshielded in my test rig. I put it in a temporary enclosure and now the noise is gone. Works great.
I'm hoping to use it as the preamp/EQ in front of a cab sim circult (based on the JMP1). They sound great together!
Thanks again!
You could try to drop cookies from google, that could solve the comment problem.
DeleteI think i'm throwing the old layout out, as the revision is way better... Good to hear you got it sorted!
+m
Do you think this would be a good eq for an acoustic guitar?
ReplyDeleteAnyone build this for an acoustic guitar?
ReplyDeleteBuilt this one a couple weeks ago. Goes great with an orange tiny terror. While I love my tiny terror I wanted more EQ options. This fit the bill perfect and is a pretty simple build (this coming from someone who has only built about 10 pedals at this point).
ReplyDeleteHi everyone! I have found in the TSC software from Duncan Munro that "the Vox stack can be viewed as a Fender stack with a fixed mid control"; Rungroove has written that we must select the "Marshall Tone" and fix the middle to reach the "Vox Tone"...the reverse! so... who is wrong, who is right in this story? If one of you has an explaination, it would be great!
ReplyDeleteThey are all pretty similar but IMO, the Vox AC30 tonestack is still a little closer to that of a Marshall. BTW, even if RunOffGroove suggested that to get a Vox tone you have to use the Marshall setting it doesn't necessarily mean the "reverse" of anything.
Deletetrying this out with a 1n5818 and i will be running it off 26 volts to a tpa3116 mono 100 w class d amp board . using 50 volt caps and the ne5532 op amp in a very small "pray it fits" chassis .
Deleteso i used 50 volt electro caps and sure enough the circuit runs fine at 26 volts . paired with the class d amp board (tpa316) in a little pc printer switch box painted black with a top handle . its a nice cheap little amp . i was jaw dop amazed at how loud it ran off 9 volts . attn noisy cricket lm386b crew . . . the amp board was 5.40 cents shipped so . . . if you insist on actually building something , add the tonemender to your mini amp project and you will have a real winner ( vs the turd you woud end up with any lm386 based amp . . . sorry but its true . at least go with a 7052 chip and make a punch amp .
ReplyDeleteHi,
ReplyDeleteI'm looking to potentially use this circuit to add a 'clean' channel to a non-master amp - I'm pretty sure it would but could someone confirm if the level control can dip a decent way below unity? Doesn't have to be a huge amount but just enough so that I can drop the input level to the amp to go from crunch to clean(ish)
Nice one! Works great with tl072 - no hum nor noise.
ReplyDeleteHello. I'm building this board. I read about someone who added a gain control using a LED+LDR. You can read this here:
ReplyDeletehttp://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=97945.0
Someone can explain me how I can do that? I want a gain pot, it is an excellent mod.
I had loads of trouble with this. Boxed it with a BAT superlead revelation, a wah and a red rooster and got loads of high pitched whistling, then gating, then nothing. Then I gave up and boxed it with a switchable dod grey spec before it and its excellent. I usually play very heavy doomy rock but since I’ve made this I can’t stop blues noodling with the mid shift switch in the fendery position. An absolute joy.
ReplyDeleteI just finished my built and I'm literally getting no tone out of it. Just for debugging's sake: what's the convention for numbering the lugs of a DPDT switch? Is this correct:
ReplyDelete1 4
2 5
3 6
?
Thank you!
I found my error - inserted the IC the wrong way ... lug numbering is correct that way.
DeleteIt sounds sweet, but it has a huuuuuge gain. Is there a way to reduce that a little bit? Okok, there's a volume knob, but ...
Yes, I noticed that, too. He have a lot of volume. Is this what you mean? Clean but loud?
DeleteI didn't tried it yet, but in this case I guess you can increase the 4.7k resistor. But I don't know if this will change some frequency, maybe you should change even 470nF cap on the right.
Or, a 250k pot could cut some volume.
These are just some suppositions.
Let us to know if you solve it somehow.
Can I turn it on "amplifier return"? would be too low? does it work with 18v?
ReplyDeleteMy pcb has problem my bass and mid controls dont work only treble knob works.
ReplyDeleteall joints are properly connected to bass mid and treble,
i am using all liner pots.
kindly help.
hi,
ReplyDeleteI would like to use it for a bass guitar...
a clever guy, bassmannate @ diystomboxes
suggested to someone: "double all caps"...
although I've bought all the parts, I feel like trying it :)
except for the electrolits, I guess...
do you think it's a good idea?
thanks!
Well, maybe not all caps. Probably you should try to double the input and the output caps. Maybe some other coupling cap, look at the schematic, it could be useful.
ReplyDeleteI don't know if you should change something in the eq section. It's a Fender/Marshall type, make some research about this kind of eq.
thank you very much!
DeleteI will build it, test it, use it, and see what's missing, if anything...
than I'll double the inp/outp caps...
and read more to understand how it works :)
thank you!
Hi, can anyone explain how to determine the direction of the mid shift hi and low? Assuming i haven't been able to categorically determine its position by my very poor ear. cheers
ReplyDeleteI built it . It works but i got a lot of noise .. i follow to above layout.. how can i fixed the noose issue?
ReplyDeleteNoise is usually a result of bad caps, bad transistors, or just lack of faraday caging for the amount of gain. Is the enclosure closed?
Delete