Now for those of you that liked the idea of building a Hoof Reaper, which I mentioned when I posted the layout for the Tone Reaper, the Tentacle should go in between the Hoof and Tone Reaper for the Octave effect. So for all the disciples of fuzz out there, pair this your favorite fuzz for some crazy octave up fuzzy goodness.
Direct from the source:
The Tentacle is a classic analog octave up effect. It is the very same octave from our beloved Hoof Reaper pedal. We got so many requests to make this a stand-alone unit that we just had to make it a reality. You can now add an excellent, swelling octave up to anything your heart desires! Pair it with your favorite fuzz, strap on a headband and unleash your inner Jammy Hendrix. Put it in front of another octave up and blow your amp's mind. Throw it in the effects loop of a delay and marvel at what happens (then tell us, we’d like to know too). What’s better? It has no controls! Nothing to worry about at all here, just hit the switch and go for it. The Tentacle is an analog octave up, the effect will become much more pronounced when using your neck pickup and playing above the 12th fret.
Edit: For those that have built this already based on the original layout upload, flip Q2 so the Emitter is towards +9V and the Collector is towards Ground.
Thanks for the layout. Are you sure about the transistors? In the Green Ringer Q1 and Q3 are NPN and only Q2 is PNP... Also on FSB Q1 and Q3 are marked as 2N5089 (NPN).
ReplyDeleteOh, and the resistor from input to gnd is marked as 2k2 on your layout, I guess that is a standard pull-down resistor and then the correct value would be somewhere above 1M (maybe 2M2 and then it just a typo?)
DeleteOutput cap is 100n on schem too.
DeleteFrom the schematic posted on fsb : https://s16.postimg.org/52iqhph4l/EQD_Tentacle_schem.png
DeletePulldown is 2M2, Q1 & Q3 2n5089, Q2 2n3906 and output cap 100n
I guess you used another schem Zach
no just typos. i made the corrections.
DeleteWhich transistor is Q2? Thanks.
ReplyDeleteIt's in the build notes. Q2 is 2N3906
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
DeleteI think he means which one on the layout is Q2. They're not labeled as to which one is which. Are they 1-3 left to right positionally?
DeleteAlso, in the notes it says Q1 & Q2: 2N5089. Next line says Q2: 2N3906. Is the first line supposed to be Q1 & Q3?
Wtf, the transistor labels disappears from the board, and I see the notes as it should "Q1&Q3: 2N5089", "Q2: 2N3906". Not sure why it's not coming up right otherwise. I'll go back and put the labels in when I get home in a few hours. Thanks for pointing that out so I can put it back.
DeleteIn any event Q2 is the transistor in the middle of the board.
Verified. Used MPSA18's instead of the 2N5089's and works fine. Placed after a NKT275 loaded Fuzz Face. Sitarish on the bridge pickup and metallic chaos on the neck. Thanks Zach for a great layout. Oh and I had to replace the 100uf cap with a 47uf and the diode to ground with a BAT 41 for empty stock reasons but I figured it was a filter cap and a polarity protection diode so wasn't that imperative? If I'm wrong let us know but it sounds really cool at low volumes, i'll crank her up tomorrow.
Deletegreat job man. when you get some 1N4001 i would swap out the BAT41 for the power filtering. also, glad to hear it worked with MPSA18s, i would have thought that they would have way too much gain compared to 2N5089s, 10000s vs 100s respectively.
Deletealso, i went back to my layout and removed the notes and transistor labels to redo them, so they should show up on the layout. if not let me know.
Thanks for the answer. I'll built this soon.
DeleteHey Zach, I used the MPSA18s as I was under the impression that the 2N5089 was a higher gain device? I've socketed the trannies though so i'll pop some others in today. Thanks for the heads up re. the diode, yeah 9v > Gnd, makes sense now it's function is for power filtering. Looking forward to stacking it with some distortions.
DeleteOn a side note you could save a column by sharing the same hole for the 2 68k like we usually do with links and moving the link 1 column right.
DeleteCould be usefull to fit 1590A enclosures
Hey already: Yea I saw that. You could also have the diodes share a hole, and save another column. I didn't do that on the layout cause I try to avoid components sharing holes and standing resistors, but I could tweak the layout later with those changes for those that was a smaller layout for a 1590a.
DeleteHey Phill. Both 2N5089 and MPSS18 are high gain/low noise, but MPSA18 typically have higher gain. Not saying it won't work, just saying it may sound or act different with 2N5089, know what I mean? Glad your enjoying the build too man.
Sweet, great info phill. Really glad to hear that it sounds even better now.
DeleteI accidentally broke with 1n4001 diode when solving for issues and hooked it up with a bat 41. Is there a specific reason as why to not use a bat 41? I'm out of 1N4001 as well for the time being is there anything that's comparable to them? Or should I just wait and re-up my stock?
DeleteDo the 47nf caps need doubling to use this for bass?
ReplyDeleteI don't think so. I've seen a few videos on YouTube with this used for bass as is.
DeleteCool. Might have a stab at this then.
ReplyDeleteCan somebody point me to the differences between this beauty and the green ringer? I'm having a hard time finding them.
ReplyDeletechanged the dropdown resistor from 1.5 to 2.2M and added a 100p cap to ground. Literally the exact same circuit sonically.
DeleteHas anyone tried using a 5088 instead of 5089?
ReplyDeleteYeah man they work although i tried 2 BC107's and they seem to work better for me. Still waiting for some 5089's.
ReplyDeleteI found the 5088's way to low gain and the 5089's a little better. Tried an mspa18 and a little better still but not right atall.
Deletenoob question - what is CLR?
ReplyDeleteCLR, means current limiting resistor. So instead of having to wire the +leg of the LED with a resistor to directly to the do jack, you connect it to the main board. The CLR prevents the LED from blowing up on you.
DeleteThis will be my first build... can someone explain the difference between the orange/pink/yellow caps? Is there a key somewhere?
ReplyDeleteThe pink is electrolytic, normally available in the uf range. The orange is film or poly. Normally in the nf range. Yellow is ceramic. Available in the pf to nf range but used for pf because film caps don't go that low. But you can use the ceramics for the nf's also instead of film.
DeleteHey man, welcome. If this is your first build I would highly suggest reading the build guide before doing anything. Just to add to what Brent had already mention. Typically you want to use ceramic caps for pF values unless you need some thigh to fit in a tight space, as they can be microphonic. Also, don't get hangup in the colors of the components, pay attention to the values as you'll see different colors for every component, so if you look at the value you know what you should use.
DeleteHey thanks for the reply. I've constructed the pedal, and the pass-thru works, and the effect kind of works but the effect is competing with a loud hum. I don't quite know what the problem is, I'll restart a new one tomorrow.
DeleteHey Robert, I know I'm months late but I was wondering : did you find what was wrong with your first build ? I'm experiencing the same problem as yours : the effect works but with a loud hum. I've now just finished my second build and it's the same problem. Maybe something wrong with one of the transistors ?
DeleteTried with 5088 -too low
ReplyDelete5089- a lil better
Mpsa18 the best so far but this is still a volume and gain sucker. Something isnt right and i have built 2 of these. Are you sure the values are right because it feels there is something wrong.
Based on the trace I'm certain the values are correct. I honestly think you've got build errors in both of your builds. It was verified with MPSA18 which are very high gain, as well as with BC107 which is much lower gain, 100-500hfe.
DeleteHey I know this is from two years ago, but I'm having similar problems to what you're describing, volume is low and I have an everpresent hum going on. Did you ever get it figured out?
Deletecan someone help me with the 3pdt wiring please
ReplyDeleteLook at the tab labeled offboard.
Deletethank you for redirecting me, sorry I'm new here
DeleteNo worries man, I'm glad to help. Keep in mind you're not really going to see how to wire the switch for any of the effects here unless it's special, like the KLON. The reason being that the true bypass offboard wiring is all the same, so keep that layout handy.
DeleteQuick question. Ive been on the fsb and checked the trace, and appears on yours theres a third diode. The two 4148's are there but on this one the 4001 is added.
ReplyDeleteIt's there. Check the notes on its position, it runs from the 100r resistor to ground, it looks like a white circle. I have to go back and mark it as D3.
DeleteI have found my issue. I forgot the jumper. Working fine now, both 5088 and 5089 tested id say not much between em. Maybe wise words repeated but i slept and relooked with fresh eyes, i was about to have a crack at some green ringers but sonically through research i prefered the tentacle. There my be not much difference if tall.
ReplyDeleteGreat man. I figured something had to be off in your build. I always do that when a board is giving me grief when it should work and doesn't. Just walk away for a bit and I can usually spot the problem in 5min.
DeleteHow much signal does this thing need to sound right? I've built one (matched pair of 2n5089s) and I just get a quiet, tinny sound out of it. I'm sending my Jazz bass straight into it, but I've also tried putting a boost in front of it and it's still the same.
ReplyDeleteI think you've got a build error or two. Post pics over in the debugging section of the forum.
DeleteI was reusing a 22kΩ from another project and it hadn't quite gone through the board properly. All sorted now thanks.
ReplyDeleteGreat sounding pedal Zach, thanks for this one.
anytime man. it's usually stupid stuff like that we always miss when there's a problem with a build. like putting the transistors in backwards. but, the important thing is it's sorted. how is it on bass? been debating if i'm going to build it myself.
DeleteTried this with a Split n' Blend today and it sounds amazing on bass. I'm probably only blending about 20% clean to 80% octaved to put a touch more low end back in, but it makes a HUGE difference.
DeleteThanks Zach. I remember once testing a build that didn't work; I was halfway through checking the values of each component on the board when I spotted the empty transistor sockets...
ReplyDeleteI'll give it a proper going over tonight and see how it works with a blend and maybe an R/C crossover...
Is it just me or is Q2 upside down? If i compare it to the green ringer it seems to be.
ReplyDeletenope the pinout and orientation of the transistors are correct. both layouts are different, and the orientation of the transistor will be dependent on where the power and ground rails are.
Deleteif you look correctly the green ringer's Q2 collector goes to the 10k then to ground, the tentacle's collector goes to 10k then the power rail. just found that odd, i Wonder how much it changes the sound.
ReplyDeleteThere are 2 10k resistors that come off Q2, 1 is 10k to ground off the emitter, the other 10k to power off the collector. This is the same in both the green ringer and tentical. Again, this has the same topography as the green ringer with some different values. I would not sit and compare the arrangement of components between the two layouts to see differences as where the components are placed are not going to make a difference the values will make a difference.
DeleteIf you're insistent to find all the differences between the two just compare the schematics. As to how the differences in component values affect the tone you'll have to either build the two to compare for yourself or check out some audio/video clips.
No the q2 transistor is clearly not hook up the same. In the green ringer the Emitter goes 10k to the positive rail and collector goes 10k to ground. Im not talking about the components values at all. BTW they are almost identical apart from q2 orientation.
DeleteQ2 is backwards according to the schematic for the Tentacle and Green Ringer (which makes perfect sense since it is PNP), but all you need to do to match the schematic is to swap the collector and emitter around on Q2.
DeleteSo if you socketed the transistors, nothing on the board would need to be changed, you could just flip Q2 around
If you compare this lay out to the green ringers you should understand what i mean about the orientation of q2 being different http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.ca/2010/12/dan-armstrong-green-ringer.html
DeleteTook a look at the schematic again, and yes Q2 was reversed. The layout had been updated. Surprised it was verified with it reversed, which is why I didn't go back to look at the schematic, my bad. But again, comparing layouts of similar pedals will not help figure out mistakes, since the layouts themselves will be different you need to look at the schematic.
DeleteI put a note at the top for those that have built this based on the original posted layout to just flip Q2.
This is interesting, I'll flip Q2 tomorrow morning and report back.
DeleteNow it's working properly! I knew it wasn't 100% but the trouble with not ever playing or hearing one and solely relying on YT vids is you assume it could be your own gear (guitar/amp) that's effecting the sound of the pedal but voila now i'm getting that 'klang' and cut through at lower boost levels. Thanks to Greg for giving us the heads up, cheers pal.
DeleteNo problem.... I was wondering why I though it could have been a reversed beta deal like what death by audio uses in alot of there pedals. Glad it's cleared up. I was starting to wonder if I was crazy!
DeleteHaha. We all have those moments. Glad in the end it was caught. Funny how this has happened before that a layout gets verified when there's an error in it. Must still sound good with the transistor reversed. Lol
DeleteHey Zach, I put 2N5089's (Fairchild) and the 1N4001 in and all is well. Really well actually. It's been fun experimenting...it's extremely responsive to where in the chain you place it/what you feed it into etc so i'd advise anyone to mix and match up with boosts, dirts and fuzzes to bring out the different flavours. Current setup favourite...Tele Custom > germanium fuzzrite (dimed) > tentacle > catalinbread echorec. Thanks again man.
ReplyDeleteI put this together and it sounds great! Added the Mini JFET Blend and ran that into an EHX LPB1 and it definitely gives this a bit more versatility. Can't wait to box it up and pair it with some distortion/fuzz!
ReplyDeleteJust got a new hakko fx888 soldering station in the mail today and decided to pop its cherry on this build. This things sounds wicked with my both my bazz fuss and big muff clone.
ReplyDeleteI know it has been verified, but i doubleverify it. :)
ReplyDeleteIt's awesome , easy to build and I like it pretty much.
Thanks, guys!
Just hooked this up today and I'm getting a very gated sound. Is it possible any of the transistors need to be biased?
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteHi Ian, presuming all your components are correct, this will gate slightly when used. ( You can hear it in the video as well) My advice is to stick with it and you will find what works with this pedal in no time. Of course this pedal may not be for everyone but i like it for that dirty 70,s rock style.
ReplyDeleteThanks for the reply! That's good to know. I wasn't expecting a perfectly clear sound, but it did seem like the sound in the video was a lot clearer and less gated than my version. I'll box it up and play around with combining it with some dirt pedals.
DeleteHey, thanks for they layout. Im looking to add some flexibility to this, is there a way i could add a switch to go to a 2nd octave up? Im not familiar with octave pedals, wish i could afford to get a digitech, i really like the new ricochet. Thanks again for this layout, Found a schematic and gonna start breadboarding. Im thinking it would take more than just a switch to go up another octave but figured id see if its possible. I know like to turn a orange squeezer into a bass pedal u have to up the caps by 50 percent i think i read, but two different effects, anyway thanks again for your help
ReplyDeleteHello! built this effect and it worked right away.
ReplyDeleteThe thing is , the effect is not very pronounced. i used the neck pick up etc, but you can barely hear the octave up, nothing like the demos.
I used different values in some resistors, could this be the problem?
i used
510K instead of 560K
15k instead of 18k
150K instead of 160k
6.8k instead of 6.2k
built this today and worked first pop
ReplyDeleteverified but may have a bit of of butchering session on it and create me a little monster muhahahahahahah
Just built this and it sounds fantastic, adds so much sustain you wouldn't believe! I'll do a video when I box it up
ReplyDeleteHey, help me someone please, where the pot goes since there are no volume lines? Also I didn't catch this thing about CLR, is there any specific model of that stuff?
ReplyDeleteOne connection of pot goes to ground, the other one to output and the third one whatever? it's my second project sorry for silly questions :/
ReplyDeleteThis circuit doesn't have any pots.
ReplyDeleteCLR is the current limiting resistor for the LED. Usually the value for that is 1K-10K with lower values giving a brighter light
Check the offboard wiring tab at the top of the page
Built and boxed it yesterday. Only did a quick test at low volume and with little drive. Going to give it a try with fuzz tonight.
ReplyDeleteNoob question, Which is the positive side of the electrolytic capacitor?
ReplyDeleteNon-marked one. The marked side is negative, as in actual cap.
Delete+m
yes but, in the layout does not see the orientation.
DeleteOr maybe it's just me, in my country are 4am, maybe I need go to sleep
This comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteI'm just getting a clean sound, no effect.
ReplyDeleteAlbum of board: http://imgur.com/a/6NGxf
Troubleshooting: Measured Transistors and Resistors, used sound probe.
Outcome of troubleshooting:
*R3 is supposed to be 160k, but when it's on the board it's only measuring @ 125 (replaced with a new resistor that I measured at 160k off, reading 125k once it was on the board).
*4 resistors had no audio on one leg - see the circled spots on the diagram http://imgur.com/IdOADyb
*Ran razor between the traces to try to ensure no bridges were there
*Verified transistor pinouts to make sure I had them in correctly (I did)
*All pins on transistors had audio
Transistor Measurements
Transistor: C, B, E
Q1: 5.13, 2.04, 1.47
Q2: 3.65, 5.18, 5.81
Q3: 9.4, 3.45, 3.82
Not sure what to do next. The resistors that don't have audio on one leg all measure out ok, so I'm not sure why they wouldn't at least have some passing through. Admittedly I don't really know much at all about electronics so I hope what I'm telling you is helpful.
Thanks in advance!
Move the bottom leg of D1 down 1 row
DeleteThat was the issue thanks - so embarrassing I swear I checked about a million times.
DeleteThe 100uF capacitor, I have a electrolytic capacitor of the same value but it's polarized. Will this still work? and it wouldn't matter which direction?
ReplyDeleteThat one is supposed to be polarized. cap's positive lead to top row (+9v)
Deletejust finished this. it was my first pedal project and it works like a dream. ive already made myself a ts808 too! i think its safe to say im obsessed now!!
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteIs there a way to add a pot to this?
ReplyDeleteWhat would you want it to do?
Delete+m
A blend would be pretty cool.
DeleteWorks great, sound cool :)
ReplyDeleteThanks!
Hi!
ReplyDeleteTried to put this on a Breadboard, from the schematic and perfboard combined info, but I'm not getting any signal through, just a bunch of crackling when I press and jiggle the components.
Since it's my very first build, I'm a little stuck on troubleshooting a thing like this..
What I did:
-A few resistors are off, but close enough I think (18k->15k, 6k7->4k7, 160k->220k, 560k->470k)
-Used 2x BC549C instead of 2N5089, but should be similar enough (according to the collective wisdom of the internet), apart from the pinout, which is swapped (so EBC->CBE, flat facing you).
Troubleshooting:
-I probed the thing for continuity and voltages, but I'm not sure what to look for here?? Voltages seem to drop like they should across resistors and D1/D2. D3 shouldn't pass any, right?
-I plugged my input jack in, grounded my output jack, then probed the bits of the circuit with the hot output jack, but only at the Input jack itself I get a clear sound; everywhere after it it's just suuuupersoft or crackling.. I have no clue where I should try to probe, or what I expect to hear?
Ok, tried some more things:
DeleteBuilt the supereasy Bazz Fuzz, works like a charm.
Substituted the 3 trannies from the Tentacle, all 3 work nicely, so I know they work, and my pinouts were correct.
Plugged back the first BC549C as Q1, and tried to use only the first section of the build (so outpu-hot hooked up to Collector of Q1 (disconnected everything after it), nothing comes through..
I'm quite new at this, but I'd thought that at THAT spot at least something should still come through..
Is it possible my Resistor values are just too far off?
Maybeee a silly question, but I've found so images online of the schematic of this veroboard diagram and some of the capacitor values read different. Which image should i go with? I am only this cautious because I'm seeing peoples comments mentioning a problem with fuzz and I dont want to get this wrong.
ReplyDeleteAlso is there a difference between metal and carbon resistors?
ReplyDeleteHi, it is just me, or there are two extra rows at the bottom of the layout? I'm planning to build it for a 1590A enclosure, and every milimeter is gold.
ReplyDeleteI have built it (no enclosure yet, waiting for it) without the two bottom rows, and it is working. Just a little tight for the 100pF Capacitor, had to use a ceramic one, and the circuit sounds amazing!
DeleteFinally built, can be seen here: https://electric-safari.com/2018/05/12/eqd-tentacle-clon-in-1590a-enclosure/
DeleteA demo in a few days...
Thanks everyone!
I used NPN transistors with a high beta (>400), I think they will give higher input gain and more output gain in the final stage, can anybody confirm my assumptions?
Sorry, I meant higher input impedance
DeleteI had a very anoying noise in this circuit from a cheap power supply. Added a 56 Ohms resistor between supply 9V and circuit and the noise disappeared completely. It seems that the 100uF capacitor was not enough and needed a little resistor to absorb the noise.
DeleteThanks! Seeing as this effect works better on the low end, I added a bass booster to it (used the EHX Hog's Foot you had.
ReplyDeleteHi,
ReplyDeleteIts the 3rd time a try to build this pedal and well... I does distorsion but not the octave up... any idea? I've used the exact same components, and the connections on the veroboard are okay... wonder if its something about the solder or... I dont know, help!
I can tell you that "a friend of mine" built this and found that when it is NOT working, it can still pass a distorted signal. So, it may not be working, but sound like it is.
DeleteNot that that is particularly helpful, but it may help you troubleshoot if you ignore the fact that it is passing some sort of signal (in other words, don't assume it's working because you hear it).
Also, use schottky diodes. It makes it sound even better.
Built this and it works like a charm, like the demo's. No noise, very clean octave, most friendly in front of the signal chain. I tested over and over with different NPN transistors: 2N5089, MPSA18, 2N3904, BC550, BC549, BC548 etc between HFE of approx 240ish up 600+. Very hard to notice a difference, very hard. Stuck with BC549's matched at HFE 250ish. Maybe i felt that the signal was slightly fragmented the higher the gain, more consistent at lower gain. So slight that I probably made this up. Either way it rocks. Thanks team.
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteHi, i built this recently and it's a great but subtle effect, even sounds pretty cool with a lot of chord shapes, so is very usable. It sounds just like the one in the demo so i'm sure I've built it right, but ... it's very quiet ? Perhaps two thirds of the volume of the bypassed signal. I've tried using it live but it just gets lost in the mix :( Any suggestions would be appreciated as i'm fairly new to building my own pedals, so unfortunately i can't think of a solution based on my own knowledge as i'm pretty much just copying the layouts. Total respect to the best website on the internet by the way ! :)
ReplyDeleteMine is even a little louder than bypassed signal, so there has to be something wrong with yours.
Deletecheck tracks for bridges and check solderings, usually I have to use a magnifier to see little spots between rows.
DeleteThanks for your reply manolonte, i'll definitely do that next :) Did you use exactly the same components as the schematic ? I did, but wondered if the component tolerances were an issue. I might just build another to see if its any different. Thanks again, Ian.
ReplyDeleteBasically I used the same values and components, initially. After that, I did some experiments, but it worked right from the beginning.
ReplyDeleteWell, except the transistors, I used metal encased bc107b because I have many of them and they are cool. But I don't think they are that critical.
DeleteI built a couple of these with great success, I have used it mostly with muffs so far and it sounds really nice !
ReplyDeleteThanks for this layout :)
Mine works fine. Just ordered a momentary Switch 2PDT instead of the normal 3PDT.
ReplyDeleteIt's a cool effect to me which brings some subtility during a part of a solo, not for hours !!! So i find more interesting to use it that way. Led becomes useless in such situation.
Thanks for this layout
Somebody please help me. I spent all day grinding this out and no dice. Bypass and LED are all good. No sound when i initiate the pedal, only a little extra noise, but no guitar signal. This is only my second build so don't mind the sloppiness. This is a last resort. Photos are in the link below! Thanks in advance!
ReplyDeletehttps://imgur.com/a/HS8QhXK
There could be some bridges between tracks, clear them with a knife or cutter.
DeleteI checked the tracks with a razor blade, but I just got a little mini hacksaw I'm going to go to town with. Thanks for the reply.
Deleteokay, I just ran all the tracks down with a little itty bitty hacksaw, and i'm still getting nothing. idk what to do guys/gals. any advice would be great
DeleteResistor to the right of D2, and resistor immediately below D2 are both meant to be 22K. The one immediately below D2 doesn't look to be 22K. It looks to be 10K.
ReplyDeleteThanks for the look, I'll make the swap and keep you posted!
DeleteHi, do you think I can use two 20k instead of 22k? I'm getting really low volume out of my built, I'm wondering if this can be the problem or whether I should search somewhere else.. Thanks!
DeleteHey, just built this. Getting a bit of a volume boost when engaged but I'm not hearing an octave. I did have to use a couple "closest" resistors for ones I didn't have on hand. I used a 150k instead of the 160k and a 6.8k instead of a 6.2k. Is that enough of a difference to mess things up? Otherwise I don't know. everything else seems to check out.
ReplyDeleteLook for bridges
ReplyDeleteJust wondering where 2nd leg of the LED goes? Im currently using a DPDT stomp switch. Should i change to a 3PDT?
ReplyDeleteThe other side of the LED will go to the LED - connection shown in the offboard layout diagram:
ReplyDeletehttp://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2012/02/offboard-wiring.html
But if you're using a DPDT stomp you don't have the extra pole required for an indication LED, so you'll either have to do without it or use a 3PDT stomp.
I used 2N5088 and I only got a fart sound out of it. I swapped them for MPSA18s and it sounds much better, but a tad below unity gain. I think I'll change them again as soon as I get my hands on some 2N5089. It's a pity since I managed to cram it all into a 1590A and I don't wanna disassemble it again...
ReplyDeletehttps://i.imgur.com/tVXQ5Eil.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/tVXQ5Eil.jpg
Hi all,
ReplyDeleteI'm getting significantly louder signal when it's down the pedal chain, any ideas what to start with to get it closer to unity?
Thanks!
Hi, do you think I can use two 20k instead of 22k? I'm getting really low volume out of my built, I'm wondering if this can be the problem or whether I should search somewhere else.. Thanks!
ReplyDeleteis there be a way to add a blend pot to this?
ReplyDelete