Friday 1 February 2013

Blackout Effectors Fix'd Fuzz Deluxe

Yay February.  Just 111 to beat this month Miro :o)

I think I'm going to get a few questions about this one, although a look at the front of the Deluxe at the graphical links between switches and pots will probably give a good clue how this one works if you aren't already familiar.  A quick overview though, this is by no means a Muff, but it does have certain similarities, ie 4 "stages":

Booster > Gain > Gain > Tone and recovery

but with this the stages can be removed individually.  So you could have just a booster with tone control if you like by bypassing the two gain stages.  Or a spikey gainy monster by removing just the Tone stage.  Or any combination that takes your fancy.  I'm sure the offboard wiring will be a pain, but no pain no gain eh!

In the meantime, info about the original:

FIX’D FUZZ DELUXE, the hydra-headed dragon of handmade fuzzboxes, boosts & overdrives. Replete with two polar opposite fuzz tones, as well as a fullrange clean boost through heady overdrive and a (wide) tone sculpting stage. It delivers BIG diversity in sound - all in a small footprint package designed specifically for the cramped pedalboard.

The Fix'd Fuzz Deluxe picks up where the old stock Fix'd Fuzz left off and adds more tweakability, like the version used in the Twosome.






Posted by at 00:34
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60 comments:

  1. Nicholas1 February 2013 at 03:05

    AWESOME.

    ReplyDelete
  2. mirosol1 February 2013 at 11:31

    Believe Mark. Not going to even try.

    But i just did verify DOD FX50B, so i see some other DOD designs using the same PCB in our future :)
    +m

    ReplyDelete
  3. visualdistortion1 February 2013 at 11:55

    So now we can do the twosome fuzz with the musket fuzz and switchs! Thanks a lot

    ReplyDelete
  4. Njokki1 February 2013 at 14:36

    Hi, can I use 2n2222A instead of MPS2222 for Q3-Q4?

    ReplyDelete
  5. Travis1 February 2013 at 16:14

    Next time I order parts I'm gonna build this + a musket in one box!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. IvIark1 February 2013 at 16:25

      That's going to be an impressive looking box! You may need a 1590D or DD for that one

      Delete
  6. Travis1 February 2013 at 16:40

    It should be quite a wiring job too :P I think I'll go for the 1590D

    The layout looks incredible as always. I'm really looking forward to building it! Thanks Mark!

    ReplyDelete
  7. rudeez1 February 2013 at 16:53

    Dear mother of god, im not even gonna bother with that right now even tho it's tempting haha. That offboard wiring will make you think more then twice :D Weekend has other projects in sight, the tonemender! Need to do a whole lot of tweaking to it.

    ReplyDelete
  8. Jason1 February 2013 at 19:14

    Not totally verified but I built this in the same box as a musket as a special twosome fuzz. I did my own layout though it is pretty similar to this layout.

    ReplyDelete
  9. Cortex1 February 2013 at 23:28

    thank you for this layout, blackout effectors are an unbelievable firm.
    any chance of seeing a vero of their Crystal Dagger? its an AWESOME pedal

    ReplyDelete
  10. onthetundra3 February 2013 at 16:40

    Verified

    ReplyDelete
  11. Jason Ballantyne4 February 2013 at 21:24

    I don't have a 1k log for Fuzz 1. 1Kc should be okay, shouldn't it? From what I've read, a lot of people prefer it on Fuzz Faces because it gives a wider, more useable taper.

    ReplyDelete
  12. Jason Ballantyne4 February 2013 at 22:00

    This should make for an interesting few hours tonight.

    http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa227/axe_34/IMG_6125_zps311c7cb0.jpg

    http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa227/axe_34/IMG_6124_zps133cb5d9.jpg

    I hate not testing it out prior to wiring it in the box, but the leads are going to have to be cut so exact to keep it neat, I'll just have to throw caution to the wind and go for it in the enclosure.

    ReplyDelete
  13. Jason Ballantyne4 February 2013 at 23:09

    Maybe I'm reading this wrong but I don't see any input or output from the board itself.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. IvIark4 February 2013 at 23:36

      Input goes to switch 1 which then makes the connection to the board, output of the board is lug 3 of the Output pot, with lug 2 going back to the switch all as per the notes.

      Delete
    2. IvIark4 February 2013 at 23:36

      And the pics look very cool!

      Delete
  14. Jason Ballantyne4 February 2013 at 23:49

    Ah! I missed the output note. Thanks Mark.

    As to the input -- where is it coming from to connect to switch 1?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. IvIark5 February 2013 at 01:20

      Well the input wire from the stomp switch goes to lug 2 of the first switch. Then in one position of that toggle the input is connected to the board via lug 3, in the other position the first booster stage is entirely bypassed with the input wire then being connected to lug 2 of the second switch (via lugs 1, 4 and 5 of the first switch taking the contact connections and link into consideration). That may be a little hard to visualise but if you look at the scheme I did it from, I've included the switch lug numbering which should make it more obvious:

      http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j6/IvIark_2006/Layouts/Schematics/FixdFuzz.png

      Delete
  15. Jason Ballantyne5 February 2013 at 01:32

    "I see!" said the blind man. I was visualizing the input coming from the board to the stomp switch, not from the stomp switch to switch 1. I understand now. Thanks Mark.

    ReplyDelete
  16. Jason Ballantyne5 February 2013 at 01:32

    Isn't it like 1:30 a.m. over there? You need your sleep!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. IvIark5 February 2013 at 01:47

      I do indeed, "Time for bed" said Zebedee! :o)

      Delete
    2. Jason Ballantyne6 February 2013 at 20:42

      Apart from my amp, this was the most intense wiring job I've had to do. Actually, it was probably more intense. Since everything needs to be cut to the exact required length, I couldn't hook it up on the test rig beforehand. I just had to build it and hope it worked -- kind of like walking a tightrope without a net.

      Sounds just like the video. Really, really versatile circuit.

      http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa227/axe_34/IMG_6146_zpsfe23dd62.jpg

      http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa227/axe_34/IMG_6141_zpsa11a50f5.jpg

      http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa227/axe_34/IMG_6145_zps45fa841f.jpg

      http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa227/axe_34/IMG_6144_zps7eb5b9bb.jpg

      http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa227/axe_34/IMG_6142_zpsb5c307fb.jpg

      http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa227/axe_34/IMG_6147_zps75df2c6d.jpg

      http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa227/axe_34/IMG_6148_zps2157ec6f.jpg

      http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa227/axe_34/IMG_6149_zps157bf0ae.jpg



      Delete
    3. IvIark6 February 2013 at 20:47

      Excellent stuff, thanks for the pics mate

      Delete
    4. jon q17 May 2013 at 12:48

      Wow man, that is a clean build, something to aspire to personally. I have a hard time organizing my builds, while they aren't messy the certainly aren't this clean. I am getting better but i should just print some of these pics out and keep them by my work station...

      Delete
    5. jon q17 May 2013 at 12:52

      Wow man, that is a clean build, something to aspire to personally. I have a hard time organizing my builds, while they aren't messy the certainly aren't this clean. I am getting better but i should just print some of these pics out and keep them by my work station...

      Delete
  17. Jason Ballantyne7 February 2013 at 00:53

    And a clip -- this is an LP > Pearl Octaver clone (two octaves down, one octave down and one octave up > Fix'd Fuzz (all four stages one, both fuzzes cranked) > Egnater Rebel 20 (set to mildly overdriven)

    https://soundcloud.com/jasonballantyne1/noise

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. IvIark7 February 2013 at 01:36

      That sounds fantastic. Love the Pearl Octaver too, I'll have to get a PCB for one of those!

      Delete
  18. Travis9 February 2013 at 22:57

    Can I use a 1N5818 instead of 1N5817?

    ReplyDelete
  19. Shetty17 February 2013 at 17:54

    Hey this is my first post and I want to say I love this site, I'm on here nearly every day so thanks for all your hard work! I've built this beast and it all works fine apart from the boost pot seems to do nothing at all really. It switches in and out of the circuit like expected but there doesn't seem to be any change or overall increase in volume when I adjust the pot. Is anyone else having this problem? I've checked everything over and over and it looks fine, I've subbed the 1N5817 for a BAT85 and the two MPS2222's for 2N2222A's which reading above I think should be fine? And I couldn't get 2N5089's so I've tried others such as 2N5088, BC549B etc. for Q1 which is the important transistor here I think, but nothing I've tried gives a recognizable volume boost. Any help would be greatly appreciated, I've been stressing out for three days on this one :)

    ReplyDelete
  20. fakcior17 February 2013 at 18:07

    There is error: 3k9 resistor should be replaced by 390R. Just check out LPB-1 schematic (that's the same booster).
    And that's why boost pot doesn't work in your build.

    ReplyDelete
  21. fakcior17 February 2013 at 18:11

    Also Boost pot is probably backwards.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Shetty17 February 2013 at 20:25

      That was exactly the problem and you're right about the boost pot too. thank you so much! awesome pedal as well.

      Delete
    2. IvIark18 February 2013 at 00:24

      Thanks for the heads up Bartosz, the schematic I did it from showed 3K9. Is the Boost pot backwards then Shetty?

      Delete
    3. fakcior18 February 2013 at 14:29

      Last year I've made it from the same schematic (with 3k9 resistor) and boost didn't work. It's obvious error, just look at LPB-1 schematic. After changing it to 390 the problem was solved. I remember also pot was backwards on that schematic.

      Delete
    4. fakcior18 February 2013 at 14:41

      It also can be 190R, just check topic at FSB. It's resistor between boost pot and 2n5089 in right lower corner of PCB.

      Delete
  22. Jason Ballantyne18 February 2013 at 18:42

    My boost wasn't doing anything either. I'll fix it later today and report back.

    ReplyDelete
  23. Jason Ballantyne18 February 2013 at 21:07

    Dropped it to 390 and it works. The lugs are backwards -- turned them around and all's good. When I verified this, I thought the boost was just a slight one -- I could hear some boost when it engaged. Now it's got lots.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. IvIark18 February 2013 at 21:20

      Thanks Jason and Bartosz, layout corrected

      Delete
  24. Unknown3 May 2013 at 13:46

    There's DC on the boost output if it's used on it's own. Would a 4u7 to 10u and 100k on the output (similar to the SHO) do the job, or would it load the boost too much?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. IvIark3 May 2013 at 14:06

      There's a 100n before the volume pot no matter which stage is in circuit.

      Delete
  25. Unknown3 May 2013 at 14:00

    Don't worry, I had mentally isolated the boost as I was planning to have it on its own footswitch, and therefore didn't worry about the other stages having the same issue, which is solved by the output level control...
    So, if the boost was used without the output level pot, would a large cap and 100k to ground work?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. IvIark3 May 2013 at 14:09

      Do you mean you want the boost stomp to also bypass the volume control and simulate it being at full volume? If so I'd use exactly what you'd get at the output, a 100n plus 100K to ground, then the frequency response stays the same.

      Delete
  26. Unknown4 October 2013 at 21:37

    I finalized it. IT sounds good, but i have problem with too noisy toggle switches. Is it possible
    to reduce this noisy popping sound ?

    ReplyDelete
  27. Synsound18 June 2014 at 03:00

    I used to have one but let it go. I just finished my build but would like more variance with the two fuzz pots. Would raising these values give me a greater range of sound?

    ReplyDelete
  28. Synsound23 June 2014 at 17:38

    Can anyone tell me if it is common to be below unity when both fuzz circuits and boost are off and the volume is fully up? Which of the transistors apply to boos? I may try something higher gain there to help.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. IvIark23 June 2014 at 18:28

      That wouldn't be surprising to me. If you're omitting the main gain stages and just leaving yourself the tone and recovery stage then the first thing you have in there is a big muff tone stack which will attenuate the signal by around 7dB immediately, followed by a single transistor gain stage. I would expect that stage to give you enough oomph to recover any losses due to the tone stack, but haven't built this and so don't know for sure if that's the case. Increasing the current gain of the transistor won't help, what you need to do is increase the gain of the stage and you do that by changing the ratio between the collector and emitter resistors. At the moment you have a 10K collector resistor and a 100R emitter which is giving you 10000/100 or 100x gain. If you make the emitter resistor 47 ohms that will increase to 10000/47 or around 213x.

      Delete
    2. Synsound23 June 2014 at 19:35

      Ok I may play around with that and see what happens. Thank you. I'm not by it now but if I remember correctly even the boost on by itself is might low volume.

      Delete
    3. IvIark23 June 2014 at 20:12

      I think you may have a dodgy connection somewhere. The boost on it's own should give you plenty of volume, it's basically an LPB1

      Delete
  29. Synsound16 October 2014 at 02:53

    I finally got around to going over this one again and found a bridge. After cutting it it was all good. It can be a fairly noisy/ hissy effect. This was the same with the store bought unit I used to own. With some knob tweaking it can produce some great sounds.
    I would love a way to drop some of the excess noise but it's still a sweet fuzz to add to the collection.
    As always thanks to everyone who participates on this site.

    ReplyDelete
  30. GellerStudios2 August 2015 at 20:47

    This comment has been removed by the author.

    ReplyDelete
  31. punkrawkgeek28 March 2019 at 19:50

    Thinks this badboy will fit in a 1590BB ????

    ReplyDelete
  32. volfied6 March 2020 at 18:20

    Is it safe to use 2.2M resistors instead of 2M's here? I'm not used to seeing resistors that large unless they're pulldown resistors, but there'd only be one in that case.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. volfied14 March 2020 at 13:30

      Never mind, I guess. I bought the 2M resistors. Probably pop filter for each switch, right?

      Delete
  33. Unknown26 July 2021 at 22:37

    So I built 3 of these about 2 years ago for me and sum friends. Now a co worker wants one. And I can't get it to work now. All works except fuzz 1. When turn on the switch it just cuts all sound dead. I have built this board 3 times all with the same issue and I can't find it! I even tested every part before populating. I even replaced the pot and switch with no changes. What is going on?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Jupnitski7728 October 2021 at 22:02

      Have you measured each component just to be sure they're the correct value? Just throwing few odd balls here; check that the resistors are correct with a DMM, do not trust the color bands. I've stumbled into multiple cases where the color bands have been "one decimal" wrong.
      Also, check the switch(es) with a DMM that it connects both "throws" like it should. Basically the SW2 adds/omits Q2 to/from the circuit, so the fault should be in Q2, SW2 or in the parts/soldering connected to Q2 (2 x 10k resistors, 1 x 100nF cap going to SW2-3, D2 or Fuzz 1 potentiometer).

      Delete

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