Here's a collection of vero (stripboard) and tagboard guitar and bass effect layouts that we have put together covering many classic and popular effects in growing numbers. Many of these have been posted on freestompboxes.org, so check that site out for great discussions on building your own effect pedals. Enjoy the builds and please also visit us on Facebook and Twitter
Just to add... I used a 2N3906 in place of the 2N2907A ... going on the clips I've watched on youtube mine sounds a little less gated a splatty than the original, I don't know if that has anything to do with that, but it may be worth experimenting with anyway.
Yes. Allegedly. I think it's because these things sound so bad that you could literally throw all the components up in the air and solder them where they land. And the results would be the latest Devi Ever Fuzz Bloater or something. :o)
Hmmm Might make this again without the switch... Not keen on Devi's 'noise' options but her fuzzes are pretty nice. Especially the Hyperion.. stoner/doomer dream.
The switch isn't for Vintage Fuzz, you flip the transistor for that. The switch is standard for the Soda Meiser. You could still omit it of course, and if you did you could potentially remove the 100n cap at column 6. But that depends on whether you want the sound to be with or without that cap. If you want it with the cap then you'd need to ignore the switch and solder it between the base and collector of Q1.
Yes I know, The 'vintage fuzz' doesn't have a switch so I thought that components might of been added for the switch. Ok I'll just make it as it is with out the switch and flip the transistor.
Or even socket some of the 100n's and experiment.. switchables again!
i´ve built after the layout with switch for noise and switch for vintage fuzz, but now several promblems occured, the poti works only when its turned up fully, when reduced it a litlle bit the signal ceases, and when i switch to noise mode the signal loses level, ( both-vintage fuzz and soda meiser ) do you have any ideas whats the problem ? greatings form vienna, ( and again: GREAT WEBSITE !!!)
Bear in mind that the orientation may not be right for the actual transistors you're going to use. Just check the datasheet for the manufacturer of the transistors you want to use, and make sure you orientate them so it's collector, base, emitter from top to bottom in all cases.
Very cool. I had to flip q1-3, but I used 2n5088 instead of the mpsa18 I read online that they are very similar. Pretty easy build. Sounds awesome, thanks.
Yes the one shown would be two position. The first position makes to top and centre lugs, the second position makes the bottom and centre lugs. You're just not using the second throw.
Yes, if the spec of yours is the reverse of that shown in the layout then turn them round. I didn't take much notice of pinouts in a lot of my earlier layouts because I didn't know what everyone would be using, and there are transistors that have different pinouts from different manufacturers, so all I did was specify the pins required and leave it up to the builder. Now I tend to orient them based on the transistors I have got on hand as a best guess, but still specify the required pins so the builder can orient his as required.
Right, just put it all together and one position of the switch sounds good but the other is unbelievably spitty? And higher strings are barely audible? would you say this is normal for this pedal? same on both singles and humbuckers.
Ok, I think it was a grounding issue... I wired it offboard to check it first and didn't run a ground wire between the two jacks and it sounded as if it was struggling to break through (if that makes sense) as soon as I connect the ground all hell breaks loose... noise galore!! I assume this is correct as it sounds the same as the soda mieser plus demo on YouTube.. Not really my cup of tea but I like the 'normal' switch position... might try the Karaoke next as it's a tiny circuit and the demo's sound pretty good....
Just had bizarre results with this, I rebuilt but omitting the switch and flipping Q4, (Vintage Fuzz). I got a mesh of noise mixed with guitar signal. The noise changed as I moved my hand closer to the board and then suddenly the LED fried and died?
No, but if too much current is going through the LED then it could suggest a problem at the resistor side, or the grounding. Check continuity between all points of ground.
continuity is ok, rebuilt it with the exact same results.. I've built this many times with no issues so it's a weird one. Well this the straw that broke the camels back. I'm giving it a rest for a while...
If you've replicated the same error then it strongly suggests that you've got at least one problem component. You want to consider a quick measurement just to see if you've got some resistors or caps in the wrong batch, or if some of them or the transistors have faults.
I rebuilt it using cheap ceramics where before I used all poly's, both with the same results. I thought it may be my test box but I've just successfully built and tested a Univox Uni drive in it so thats ok.
It's strange as the noise seemed microphonic, it changed as I moved my hand around the board? Like one of those electro magnetic instrument things, that's how it was acting.
Thanks for the layout, this is really helping me in my "endless quest for tone." I am having problems adding a 3p3t switch. How would one go about putting one in this layout?
Wow, I was really mixed up for a second. I didn't see the switch in the schematic and I thought your noise switch was the true bypass (duh). One last question, as mentioned in a previous comment removing the noise switch you also remove the the 100n cap at column 6, do I need to add jumper to bridge that connection, sorry I'm new at this.
If you want to remove the 100n completely you wouldn't need to add anything else. If you wanted the 100n to be in circuit as standard then you'd need to solder the top lead of that cap one row lower which would basically put the 100n cap between the base and collector.
Oh Lordy...Was asked to make this for a mate..never heard the thing ( soz im old and dont really like Devi stuff )...just spent ages trying to de-bug the chaos mode lol..then i was told..." its suppose to sound like that "..ok..what ever floats yer boat..lol
So all three leads of the one transistor connected to the top lugs, the wires attached to the board connected to the middle lugs, and the other reversed transistor attached to the bottom lugs?
It's a 2 position SPDT, but it only needs a SPST if you can get them cheaper. Basically the contact is either made or broken, so just a simple 2 position, single contact switch of any type will do.
Mark, just wondering what is the switch for? is it "Chaos" Mode, "noise" Mode, a different switch or to toggle between those mods and still have an original SM circuitry? Thanks Mate!
Hey, I cant find any mpsa18 here, so I used a bc550b, but the pedal is behaving strangely, could that have any relation with the equivalents im using? also, the spdt is killing the sound in one position. Thanks.
Hey Mark, I've build the Vintage Fuzz Master and the GZ(the same with flipped 2N2222A) but I've a problem... why transistors doesn't clip? The signal enters and exits clean! This looks totally weird for me... :/
I built as posted but after some playing around I found my favorite set up is (from left to right): 2n5089-2n5089-mpsa18-2n2907. I think this provides a more well rounded sound IMO.
Hey, I just built this yesterday – after some troubleshooting, got it to work (kind of – this isn't my first build but I haven't been messing with diy electronics for a few years so I'm out of practice)... Things I noticed (that I suspect aren't supposed to be this way): 1. The "noise/chaos" mode gives a sort of regular ticking (that seems to depend a bit on what power supply I am using, i.e. how well regulated the psu is) that sounds nothing at all like the demo in that video: https://youtu.be/FPczF5l0wuA?t=37 2. The input gates like crazy – I know that's what this circuit is about, but there seems to be almost no point in having the pre-gain switch anywhere except full CW, especially with single coils... unless I run it into some heavily compressing amp/pedal, I just get a very loud attack fart (which is kind of nice) and a very very silent, almost undistorted sustain/decay. Is this only meant to be played with super high output pickups or with a booster in front? 3. I expected it to be louder! I noticed that the last resistor before the volume pot is 10k here, where it is 1k in the turret layout. I may try that at some point, but for the moment I'm just not sure whether there may not be something more important amiss with my build.
Just to add... I used a 2N3906 in place of the 2N2907A ... going on the clips I've watched on youtube mine sounds a little less gated a splatty than the original, I don't know if that has anything to do with that, but it may be worth experimenting with anyway.
ReplyDeletemelx
Thanks for the info, did you socket the transistors by any chance? Just wondering how the Vintage Fuzz Master compares if you turn Q4.
ReplyDeleteHi mate, just to clarify, To turn this into a 'Vintage fuzz master' all I do is flip transistor Q4? everything else remains the same?
DeleteYes. Allegedly. I think it's because these things sound so bad that you could literally throw all the components up in the air and solder them where they land. And the results would be the latest Devi Ever Fuzz Bloater or something. :o)
DeleteHmmm Might make this again without the switch... Not keen on Devi's 'noise' options but her fuzzes are pretty nice. Especially the Hyperion.. stoner/doomer dream.
DeleteIf I omit the switch for the 'vintage fuzz', can I omit any components in the process?
DeleteThe switch isn't for Vintage Fuzz, you flip the transistor for that. The switch is standard for the Soda Meiser. You could still omit it of course, and if you did you could potentially remove the 100n cap at column 6. But that depends on whether you want the sound to be with or without that cap. If you want it with the cap then you'd need to ignore the switch and solder it between the base and collector of Q1.
DeleteYes I know, The 'vintage fuzz' doesn't have a switch so I thought that components might of been added for the switch. Ok I'll just make it as it is with out the switch and flip the transistor.
DeleteOr even socket some of the 100n's and experiment.. switchables again!
i´ve built after the layout with switch for noise and switch for vintage fuzz, but now several promblems occured, the poti works only when its turned up fully, when reduced it a litlle bit the signal ceases, and when i switch to noise mode the signal loses level, ( both-vintage fuzz and soda meiser )
Deletedo you have any ideas whats the problem ?
greatings form vienna, ( and again: GREAT WEBSITE !!!)
Oh man, this explains why my layout wasn't working. In the version of this I found on the net the transistors were flipped.
ReplyDeleteThanks for posting this, now I can finally make it work!
Bear in mind that the orientation may not be right for the actual transistors you're going to use. Just check the datasheet for the manufacturer of the transistors you want to use, and make sure you orientate them so it's collector, base, emitter from top to bottom in all cases.
ReplyDeleteYep, I got it. Thanks!
ReplyDeleteI now have a fully working Soda Meiser :)
Excellent, glad you got it going.
ReplyDeleteHoly crap, what an insane fuzz. Love it! Thanks for the layout...
ReplyDeleteVery cool. I had to flip q1-3, but I used 2n5088 instead of the mpsa18 I read online that they are very similar. Pretty easy build. Sounds awesome, thanks.
ReplyDeleteThanx for sharing this layout...Sounds very fuzzy and cool
ReplyDeleteGreetings from Copenhagen Denmark
You're very welcome, hope you find the layouts useful
DeleteYes Sir they really helped me a lot ....Once again Thanx Keep them Coming
ReplyDeleteCheers..
Is that blue thing on the left with two white wires attached a switch of some sort?
ReplyDeleteYes, a SPDT toggle switch, but you can also use a SPST which just has two lugs and may be slightly cheaper.
DeleteOk, cool thanks
ReplyDeleteJust found a few but mine are 2 positions (on/off) would the wiring still be the same as the one pictured?
ReplyDeleteYes the one shown would be two position. The first position makes to top and centre lugs, the second position makes the bottom and centre lugs. You're just not using the second throw.
ReplyDeleteHi, the data sheet shows the MPSA18's to be the opposite way around, would that be correct
ReplyDeleteThought I'd better check before.. thanks
Yes, if the spec of yours is the reverse of that shown in the layout then turn them round. I didn't take much notice of pinouts in a lot of my earlier layouts because I didn't know what everyone would be using, and there are transistors that have different pinouts from different manufacturers, so all I did was specify the pins required and leave it up to the builder. Now I tend to orient them based on the transistors I have got on hand as a best guess, but still specify the required pins so the builder can orient his as required.
DeleteRight, just put it all together and one position of the switch sounds good but the other is unbelievably spitty? And higher strings are barely audible? would you say this is normal for this pedal? same on both singles and humbuckers.
ReplyDeleteTo add, I used all components suggested in the layout :)
ReplyDeleteOk, I think it was a grounding issue... I wired it offboard to check it first and didn't run a ground wire between the two jacks and it sounded as if it was struggling to break through (if that makes sense) as soon as I connect the ground all hell breaks loose... noise galore!! I assume this is correct as it sounds the same as the soda mieser plus demo on YouTube.. Not really my cup of tea but I like the 'normal' switch position... might try the Karaoke next as it's a tiny circuit and the demo's sound pretty good....
ReplyDeleteJust had bizarre results with this, I rebuilt but omitting the switch and flipping Q4, (Vintage Fuzz). I got a mesh of noise mixed with guitar signal. The noise changed as I moved my hand closer to the board and then suddenly the LED fried and died?
ReplyDeleteToo much current to the LED, what resistor did you use?
DeleteI'm pretty sure it was a 2k2 as I always use. Would that of caused the circuit to not work properly as well?
DeleteNo, but if too much current is going through the LED then it could suggest a problem at the resistor side, or the grounding. Check continuity between all points of ground.
Deletecontinuity is ok, rebuilt it with the exact same results.. I've built this many times with no issues so it's a weird one. Well this the straw that broke the camels back. I'm giving it a rest for a while...
Deletethanks though mate.
If you've replicated the same error then it strongly suggests that you've got at least one problem component. You want to consider a quick measurement just to see if you've got some resistors or caps in the wrong batch, or if some of them or the transistors have faults.
DeleteI rebuilt it using cheap ceramics where before I used all poly's, both with the same results. I thought it may be my test box but I've just successfully built and tested a Univox Uni drive in it so thats ok.
DeleteIt's strange as the noise seemed microphonic, it changed as I moved my hand around the board? Like one of those electro magnetic instrument things, that's how it was acting.
Thanks for putting the layout up, it really helped me with my build.
ReplyDeleteGreat build write up, thanks for sharing
DeleteThanks for the layout, this is really helping me in my "endless quest for tone." I am having problems adding a 3p3t switch. How would one go about putting one in this layout?
ReplyDeletehttp://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2012/02/offboard-wiring.html
DeleteWow, I was really mixed up for a second. I didn't see the switch in the schematic and I thought your noise switch was the true bypass (duh). One last question, as mentioned in a previous comment removing the noise switch you also remove the the 100n cap at column 6, do I need to add jumper to bridge that connection, sorry I'm new at this.
ReplyDeleteIf you want to remove the 100n completely you wouldn't need to add anything else. If you wanted the 100n to be in circuit as standard then you'd need to solder the top lead of that cap one row lower which would basically put the 100n cap between the base and collector.
DeleteI built this with mpsa and it seems incredibly gated... I'm not doing so well with these mark. lol
ReplyDeleteOh Lordy...Was asked to make this for a mate..never heard the thing ( soz im old and dont really like Devi stuff )...just spent ages trying to de-bug the chaos mode lol..then i was told..." its suppose to sound like that "..ok..what ever floats yer boat..lol
ReplyDeleteIs it possible to make the Vintage Fuzzmaster switchable? And if so, how would one go about that?
ReplyDeleteI put the transistors on a 3PDT switch. And took wires from were the transistor was on the board
DeleteWonderful idea!
DeleteSo all three leads of the one transistor connected to the top lugs, the wires attached to the board connected to the middle lugs, and the other reversed transistor attached to the bottom lugs?
Yes just like that. I first soldered sockets to the lugs but that not necessary
Deletehttp://www.beavisaudio.com/techpages/Switches/ --> Switching Between Transistors
DeleteWhat kind of switch is that to the left?
ReplyDeleteIt's a 2 position SPDT, but it only needs a SPST if you can get them cheaper. Basically the contact is either made or broken, so just a simple 2 position, single contact switch of any type will do.
DeleteMark, just wondering what is the switch for? is it "Chaos" Mode, "noise" Mode, a different switch or to toggle between those mods and still have an original SM circuitry? Thanks Mate!
ReplyDeleteHey, I cant find any mpsa18 here, so I used a bc550b, but the pedal is behaving strangely, could that have any relation with the equivalents im using? also, the spdt is killing the sound in one position.
ReplyDeleteThanks.
Hey Mark, I've build the Vintage Fuzz Master and the GZ(the same with flipped 2N2222A) but I've a problem... why transistors doesn't clip? The signal enters and exits clean! This looks totally weird for me... :/
ReplyDeleteI built as posted but after some playing around I found my favorite set up is (from left to right):
ReplyDelete2n5089-2n5089-mpsa18-2n2907. I think this provides a more well rounded sound IMO.
Thanks Synsound! I tried that same transistor setup and I really like it. Not as gated and ridiculous as the stock setup, but more usable.
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteHas anyone build a Devi Ever Rocket? It's basically the same circuit (twice), but with some tweaks: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jLEI2hvw6jU
ReplyDeleteHey, I just built this yesterday – after some troubleshooting, got it to work (kind of – this isn't my first build but I haven't been messing with diy electronics for a few years so I'm out of practice)...
ReplyDeleteThings I noticed (that I suspect aren't supposed to be this way):
1. The "noise/chaos" mode gives a sort of regular ticking (that seems to depend a bit on what power supply I am using, i.e. how well regulated the psu is) that sounds nothing at all like the demo in that video:
https://youtu.be/FPczF5l0wuA?t=37
2. The input gates like crazy – I know that's what this circuit is about, but there seems to be almost no point in having the pre-gain switch anywhere except full CW, especially with single coils... unless I run it into some heavily compressing amp/pedal, I just get a very loud attack fart (which is kind of nice) and a very very silent, almost undistorted sustain/decay. Is this only meant to be played with super high output pickups or with a booster in front?
3. I expected it to be louder! I noticed that the last resistor before the volume pot is 10k here, where it is 1k in the turret layout. I may try that at some point, but for the moment I'm just not sure whether there may not be something more important amiss with my build.
Any ideas?
ok, nevermind, I got it fixed after reflowing a bunch of joints... now it sodomizes as nature intended.
DeleteAny idea what components could be switched to boost some mid frequencies?
ReplyDelete