Here's a collection of vero (stripboard) and tagboard guitar and bass effect layouts that we have put together covering many classic and popular effects in growing numbers. Many of these have been posted on freestompboxes.org, so check that site out for great discussions on building your own effect pedals. Enjoy the builds and please also visit us on Facebook and Twitter
I built this one last night, it works and has a good overdrive/distortion sound, and is very dynamic, but it isn't very loud. With the diode switch "off" it is very-very loud and clean, but when diodes are switched on, it is barely boosted... anyone else build this vero layout and find the same thing?
There is, from the 3rd to the 6th row. I used to do layouts like this with semi transparent components when they were needed, but now I always show a bare board in every layout so everyone can see what the components could hide.
Thanks!! If I can ask one more question: is the transistor "facing" the right direction. I followed the pinout but the round part of my transistor is facing left (instead of right as pictured above) and the pedal is only making a loud buzzing sound when activated :/
I've just checked mine and it should be facing the other way. When I did the early layouts, I used the transistor symbol in the same orientation in all circumstances, just using it as a graphical representation of a transistor and letting the pinouts to dictate the real orientation. But I realised that it made more sense to put it in the correct orientation because it would be annoying if someone had soldered it in, and so I do now tend to do that. I do recommend always checking though, there are some transistors that have a different pinout depending on which manufacturer you bought from. It's a good idea to use inline header sockets with transsitors, to allow you to swap and change.
Thanks for everything. I do not mean to criticize. What you do on here is amazing and must be very time consuming. I've had many great builds thanks to these schematics. Keep on keeping' on.
It's no problem, I didn't think you were criticising anyway, you're just trying to get your build right. I didn't used to think things like that mattered because the pins were identified, but I realised the truth is that it is important because some people will just put the transistors in the way I showed in the layout. That's why I do make an effort to do it now. Glad the layouts have been useful for you.
I'd probably recommend socketing the positions and experimenting. Something like a germanium or schottky may soundgood but because they have such a low forward voltage, they will dump a lot of the signal. Silicon should be louder, and LEDs louder still. For LEDs you'll find red, yellow, green and then blue will get progressively louder and the clipping characteristics should change too.
You could omit the diodes, or if you want them then just make a little solid link from the output wire to the end of the 5th row (where the orange wire from the switch connects). This will put the diodes in circuit permanently, but if you socket them you could always pull them if you want to.
This is probably a dumb question, but I'm new to DIY. Are the 100n and 4.7n caps, poly film? Im not familiar with the different marking and symbols that DIYLC uses. Just wanted to make sure I'm using the right parts. Thanks.
Yes the caps shown in the layout are polyester axial, but you could use anything in there. Polyester radials like greenies or Panasonic ECQ's would work fine in there and they're easy enough to get cheaply.
Hi Mark, It's funny how the most simple thing sounds the most musical. I have just build this, and like the Cornish buffer, it is way more musical than any other more complex stuff i got. I guess "less is more" is proved here. If i want to put in a volume pot, where will it go then? Thanks again for great inspiration!
Yes the Electra is a nice sounding distortion. If you want to add a volume, use something like a 100K log pot or larger, take the output from the board to volume 3, volume 1 to ground, and volume 2 then goes to the output.
Thanks again. To me, this is like a knitting recipe. I almost don't know what i am doing, but this way i can feed my curiosity and noodle at the same time. So you guys opened up my eyes for a new experience, and it is way cheaper than buying those pedals just for checking them out, as i did before: )
You can use anything over 100K and that means the filter created won't cut any audible frequencies. If you use a lower value pot then you will start to cut bass.
quick question for you mark- you wouldn't happen to have a compact version of this layout anywhere, would you? also, i'm pretty sure the lovepedal woodrow was based off of the electra. could that be built from this layout? if not, is there any chance of getting a layout for the woodrow? and maybe a layout for the original electra? i know there's plenty of layouts for the original floating around, but i prefer your designs. honestly, i can't remember the last time i used someone elses layout for a build. thaks again mark, you rock!
Hi Mark..cant hear any difference when i move the toggle, tried various diodes but I hear no change ( sounds good tho )...what is the toggle please..im using on..on ..is it worth changing to on..off ??
Sorry been out today. You need to use the middle lug and either of the two outer lugs. Then one position puts whichever diode you want to use in circuit, the other positions removes it from the circuit.
Yeah thanks mark..I understand the concept, but just couldnt hear a difference..I even tried it by removing the switch from the wires and open..closing the circuit by touching the wires..in desperation I tried on..on switch...and it certainly worked..not sure how..but it sounds great...like a beefed up treble booster.. kinda lol..its hard to describe tone in words !!
i tried to build this but added a BMP tone stack to the front of it... having trouble getting the LED's/diodes to work. i did the hard wire version... can you help?
Thanks, IvIark. This one works and sounds pretty amazing. I have 2 questions though. This build seems pretty noisy, is that the design or is there something I can do to fix the fizzy hissiness? Also, I seem to have the same issue as Tomo above in that the switch doesn't seem to do anything, and I am using a pair of 1N4148's. Any thoughts? Thanks.
Hey - just checking again, but will it work if I just build without the switch since I can't seem to hear the difference with it? Will that be the closest to stock?
If you can't hear any difference then something is wrong with your build. The switch adds diodes to ground at the output which will have an obvious difference of additional dirt and reduced volume.
Built this today. I omitted both the diodes as I wanted a clean booster, I couldn't find a 4n7 cap so I used a 3n9 but it sounds very well, loud clean and noiseless, thank you so much for sharing your layouts. Rob
A bad connection (particularly a ground somewhere) could cause this type of unwanted noise. Just to check that everything else is ok, what voltages are you getting between all the transistor pins and ground? Posting high res front and back pics will also be helpful because just telling us the symptoms isn't really giving us enough to go on when there could be many causes. Unwanted bridge, misplaced components, bad solder joint etc etc
I build just another one, and when i turn down the volume on my guitar it jumps suddenly in volume and distorts. Any idea why? Its like an impedance thing.
Hi Mark.. Firstly, thanks for all the layouts! I've just finished this COT50 (using 1n4148 diodes and a 2n5088 and a 5k pot. Didn't have a 1k) and I'm getting a soft, fizzy sound in the background. Almost like a soft fuzz sound. Any idea what may be wrong? I'm pretty new to pedal building so I may have missed something simple.. Thanks
It's probably a cold joint somewhere or something like that. Check all your connections and reflow if necessary, plus check for any unwanted bridges being made anywhere
Is there a capacitor-swop solution for the brightness? I know increasing some caps can allow more bass through but can I cut some highs in a similar way?
Is it my imagination or is this a different layout than before? The one before showed the switch for the diodes and the volume control. Not that I need it, but did it change?
No it's not changed, I don't think I've done one with a volume pot. Are you sure you're thinking of the COT50 and not one of the other Electra type effects?
You could try 2k pot, but 5k or higher value will give you very poor control. For more lows, you could sub the 4n7 for 10n or 22n. That'll let more lows in. +m
Greetings!! I am wanting to add a clipping switch with different options. LEDs and ge diodes and leave the originals in there. Was wondering which switch to use. Would I use a dpdt on on on? Wire diodes LEDs on outer lugs and run board LEDs on inner lugs? Thnx!
you're not going to be able to have 3 different clipping options with a DPDT switch, you will need a rotary switch. if you want to have two different clipping options, for example the originals and LED's then you'll need a DPDT ON-ON switch, you'll remove the diodes from the board, and put one set on the top two lugs, the second set on the bottom two lugs, and the middle two connect to the board where the diodes once were. you can use DPDT ON-ON-ON switch, which would make the middle switch no diodes at all.
Hey zach! Finally getting around to this. That would be awesome!!!!! I'm looking at the Fred Briggs molded version of this to. Don't know which one to do. Although I like the idea of having multiple clipping options. Thnx everyone...
there is no way this layout works..i will mail you my project and let you look at it because its perfect ..if this is :verified" my pedal should kick on and work ..
none of these layouts work..I only get the effect when I follow a schematic and wired them p2p on perfboard myself ..only 1-2 of the layouts on this website actually work
there is no way this layout works..i will mail you my project and let you look at it because its perfect ..if this is :verified" my pedal should kick on and work ..
none of these layouts work..I only get the effect when I follow a schematic and wired them p2p on perfboard myself ..only 1-2 of the layouts on this website actually work
rick, i hard to tell you this, but you are completely wrong. if a layout is marked as verified it has been built and works correctly. if you've been trying to build some of them and it doesn't work that means there's an error in your build. i'm sure someone would gladly help you out, if you were to ask. there are plenty of us that have build these effects without issue, just take a look at the forum.
don't blame the layout for your build issues. this effect, as well as many other lovepedals is a basic electra distortion, and a very simple and easy build. if you would like help just ask, don't start posting bs saying that "9 out of 10 of these vero layouts do not work." i find it difficult to believe that you can do it p2p, but not vero, sorry buddy.
To make this more bass friendly I would need to vary the 4n7 and 100n input and output caps, correct? Would it be reasonable to start by increasing those values to let more lows in/out (I think the closest I would have to doubling them is 10n and 470n)?
this is basically an electra distortion. if you want to make it bass friendly you're going to need to raise the caps you mention, 4n7 input & 100nF output, a lot. my suggestions is the 4n7 should be around 470nF, and the 100nF could be fine or raise it to 470nF as well.
Thanks - I'll probably build a naked guitar one and then socket one for bass and try a few different options.
If I wanted to add some different diode clipping options, could I do that with an On-Off-On DPDT? I understand how it could work with an On-On-On, but I don't have one. I was thinking (not sure if this works) if I jumpered from where the current switch is, and then replaced the diodes with the On-Off-On (with diodes at top and bottom) when I went "Off" it would be the naked circuit and with either "On" I would get the respective diode clipping signal.
remove the diodes from the board and attach the middle lugs of the switch to the top and bottom positions respectively. then you can put one set of diodes on the top two lugs, and another set on the bottom two lugs. the off position will be no diodes on the circuit. if you do this, you can also remove the switch that's on the board, replace it with a jumper, which you can do from the row above C of the transistor to the top row.
lol. it's hard to explain something like that in words, so i'm more impressed i was able to get it out right without a diagram. good luck with the build, btw.
btw, if you want more of a boost pedal that can get dirty check out either the green giant (Silicon electra distortion) or germanium giant (Germanium electra distortion). both have a pot that allows you to control how much the didoes are in the circuit, so you get more of a variation of distortion, rather then just full or not at all. you can also put the diodes on a switch so you can have 2 different types as well. with this pedal the pot really just adjusts the bias on the transistor which happens to adjust the volume just a hair as you bring the bias up to where it should be. just my $0.02
Thanks, I picked this one just as a first build. The Green/Germanium Giant is on my list, but I'm trying to start small and work my way up. But it isn't that many more pieces so I may just go for the Green Giant (I haven't dabbled in much germanium yet and after reading the thread I don't know if I want to start down that road).
all 3 effects are based on the same old pedal, the electra distortion. if you don't have any Germanium then do the green giant. or to make it more difficult, you can take a look at the lotus snowjob, which is also an electra distortion based effect, and has a switch for the diodes on or off, so you could just take them off the board and wire a switch like we talked about. with the snowjob you'll have a volume pot rather then a bias pot, so the effect will actually be a true booster.
all three effects should really have the same number of parts, the green/germanium giant just has an additional pot, everything else is the same parts, just different values.
Just got everything on the standard build - actually sounds surprisingly good. Did 1N5817 on one side, 1N4148 on the other for some pretty different flavors of distortion (much prefer the schottky - didn't really like GE in it).
The bias knob does very little - only the last 10% in the clockwise rotation even has the effect engaged. I half-way want to run a 1k resistor there and have a no-knob pedal.
Try original NOS Hitachi 2SC281 in this circuit. Granted I built the one listed here with the trimmer pot. These transistors really make this circuit sound far less farty. Not too expensive but worth it for this and other projects.
built it , experimented a little bit and ended up with BAT46s and a 2n5089 . the BAT46s makes it less loud (more friendly for home use) and the 2n5089 dirtier. I love it that way thanx for sharing and keep up the great work cheers :)
I'm interested in building this pedal, however I have a question about the two yellow capacitors 4n7 and 100n... what does the yellow component icon represent? Are these caps electrolytic or some special kind? any pointers on reading layouts? specifically reading the color of a component type to determine the correct type used. Thanks!
The electrolytic are the big blue one with the ground side shown. These are polarized and need to be put in the circuit accordingly. The others are Mylar film ceramic or whatever you want to use. They are not polarized. Reading these layouts are very simple. Just learn the components. Resistors, ic's, capacitors, diodes, pots, jfets, mosfets, npn and pnp trainsistors among other things. Read up as much as you can. There is much info on the web! This circuit is a very good place to start. Have fun and happy new year!
great, thanks! I was unsure about they type of capacitor indicated by the yellow icon.. thanks for clarifying. I'll use Mylar film for those two. I've built a couple of simple pedals using PCBs, but have not yet tried a overboard layout.. looking forward to trying it out :)
That SPDT switch is for turning the diodes "on" or "off". It' not the bypass for the effect in general. You may want to check the offboard guide for that.
Hi there guys. Just wanting to double check the input cap value on this ( I know people will have their own preference). On the Woodrow and several other layouts the input cap is no lower than 47nf rather than 4.7nf as above having built them both they're very different beasts. Anyone have an original to compare?
Hi, I'm a complete newbie, but I succeded to build my first stompbox, a Cot 50 using this kit : https://www.taydakits.com/instructions/cot50/pages/designators-and-components--16 It works ! But... It doesn't sound the same as the boost part of my Mosky Deluxe Preamp, who is supposed to be a Cot 50. For short, my pedal sounds darker, less volume, less gain. I looked at another schematic on internet here : http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2010/07/lovepedal-cot50.html Some values and the number of parts looks different. Also, on my kit (see first link) there is a part where "opt" is written. Does it mean that I can ovoid using this, and only put a jumper ? Again, I'm really a beginner, so your help is most welcome. Thank you !!
Hard to tell without knowing more details, or per example, having the schematic Tayda is using for their kit. But per example, the specific transistor you use has an impact on tone, even if they are of the same type (let's say, 2N5088), one may sound different or gainier than the other. In my experience, higher hfe transistors sound gainier and brighter (et's say that 2n588's will vary from 200 to 400 hfe sometimes). You'll need a multimeter with hfe function to get those readings.
the "opt" part probably can be left out without a link or jumper.
Hi guys, I just breadborded this. The transistor is bc338, hfe 230.the voltages are E=0V B=1.3V C=6V Battery 9.1V Sounds good.but voltages seem not right.. Any comments please!:) Thanks!
Hello , just built the Cot50 and it's an interesting one , it does sound good as an sound improver/boost and very reactive on guitar volume without diodes in the circuit . However i have wasted hours messing with the diodes . As per comments above they do not seem to make any difference in or out of the circuit which is puzzling as the original has them in the schematic but why if they don't do anything ? I have checked my soldering , it's all good , no bridges and works fine - apart from these diodes doing nothing ? The only other thing i can think of is that you need to use the Cot50 at ear shattering volume for them to come into play ( i believeit is supposed to be used loud). Did anybody manage to find a solution to this as plenty have had the same result . Regards Waldo
Replying to myself here . It works fine , it appears there isn't much difference to the sound with a lot of diodes which is why i thought the switching wasn't working but keep changing them and eventually you will find a difference . It sounds great without the diodes anyway so you could leave them out altogether.
This is an oldie but a goodie. I built one for a buddy of mine. And I like mine so much, I tried to get as close as possible. I added a power protection diode and another cut (plenty of room at the top right) and a pulldown resistor jumping over the hard to see link between the two film caps on the far left. Also changed the input cap from 4.7nf to 47nf. Clipping diodes used are BAT46's. I may also eliminate the switch altogether by adding a link from the first row down to just above the transistor. Slightly higher 2n5088's sounded best. Oh, watch your pinout orientation. The layout is misleading. Thanks for the layout as always guys.
I built this one last night, it works and has a good overdrive/distortion sound, and is very dynamic, but it isn't very loud. With the diode switch "off" it is very-very loud and clean, but when diodes are switched on, it is barely boosted... anyone else build this vero layout and find the same thing?
ReplyDeletetry flipping the transistor
ReplyDeleteHi! Is there a jumper where the two yellow capacitors overlap (4.7n and 100n)??
ReplyDeleteThere is, from the 3rd to the 6th row. I used to do layouts like this with semi transparent components when they were needed, but now I always show a bare board in every layout so everyone can see what the components could hide.
ReplyDeleteThanks!! If I can ask one more question: is the transistor "facing" the right direction. I followed the pinout but the round part of my transistor is facing left (instead of right as pictured above) and the pedal is only making a loud buzzing sound when activated :/
ReplyDeleteI've just checked mine and it should be facing the other way. When I did the early layouts, I used the transistor symbol in the same orientation in all circumstances, just using it as a graphical representation of a transistor and letting the pinouts to dictate the real orientation. But I realised that it made more sense to put it in the correct orientation because it would be annoying if someone had soldered it in, and so I do now tend to do that. I do recommend always checking though, there are some transistors that have a different pinout depending on which manufacturer you bought from. It's a good idea to use inline header sockets with transsitors, to allow you to swap and change.
ReplyDeleteThanks for everything. I do not mean to criticize. What you do on here is amazing and must be very time consuming. I've had many great builds thanks to these schematics. Keep on keeping' on.
ReplyDeleteIt's no problem, I didn't think you were criticising anyway, you're just trying to get your build right. I didn't used to think things like that mattered because the pins were identified, but I realised the truth is that it is important because some people will just put the transistors in the way I showed in the layout. That's why I do make an effort to do it now. Glad the layouts have been useful for you.
DeleteHi Mark,
ReplyDeleteWhat diodes are used in this or recommended?
Cheers..
I'd probably recommend socketing the positions and experimenting. Something like a germanium or schottky may soundgood but because they have such a low forward voltage, they will dump a lot of the signal. Silicon should be louder, and LEDs louder still. For LEDs you'll find red, yellow, green and then blue will get progressively louder and the clipping characteristics should change too.
DeleteWhat diode are in the original design??
DeleteOk, I'll try a few... If I wanted to remove the switch then I assume I would omit the two diodes too?
ReplyDeleteOhh I have some 1N4148's, I believe they're silicon..
DeleteYou could omit the diodes, or if you want them then just make a little solid link from the output wire to the end of the 5th row (where the orange wire from the switch connects). This will put the diodes in circuit permanently, but if you socket them you could always pull them if you want to.
DeleteJust built this, Is the knob supposed to crackle like the SHO?
ReplyDeleteYes, that's normal
DeleteJust noticed it's a 'Bias' knob... I guess it is meant to crackle...
DeleteReally should pay more attention...:o)
One for the records, The ''Cathedral Of Tone'' lol
ReplyDeletehttp://imageshack.us/f/442/dsc00135fg.jpg/
Very nice job mate
DeleteThis is probably a dumb question, but I'm new to DIY. Are the 100n and 4.7n caps, poly film? Im not familiar with the different marking and symbols that DIYLC uses. Just wanted to make sure I'm using the right parts. Thanks.
ReplyDeleteYes the caps shown in the layout are polyester axial, but you could use anything in there. Polyester radials like greenies or Panasonic ECQ's would work fine in there and they're easy enough to get cheaply.
DeleteHi Mark,
ReplyDeleteIt's funny how the most simple thing sounds the most musical. I have just build this, and like the Cornish buffer, it is way more musical than any other more complex stuff i got. I guess "less is more" is proved here. If i want to put in a volume pot, where will it go then?
Thanks again for great inspiration!
Yes the Electra is a nice sounding distortion. If you want to add a volume, use something like a 100K log pot or larger, take the output from the board to volume 3, volume 1 to ground, and volume 2 then goes to the output.
DeleteThanks again.
DeleteTo me, this is like a knitting recipe. I almost don't know what i am doing, but this way i can feed my curiosity and noodle at the same time. So you guys opened up my eyes for a new experience, and it is way cheaper than buying those pedals just for checking them out, as i did before: )
How important is the volume pot value?
DeleteYou can use anything over 100K and that means the filter created won't cut any audible frequencies. If you use a lower value pot then you will start to cut bass.
DeleteBut 100K is okay? (thats what i got at hand)
Deletequick question for you mark- you wouldn't happen to have a compact version of this layout anywhere, would you? also, i'm pretty sure the lovepedal woodrow was based off of the electra. could that be built from this layout? if not, is there any chance of getting a layout for the woodrow? and maybe a layout for the original electra? i know there's plenty of layouts for the original floating around, but i prefer your designs. honestly, i can't remember the last time i used someone elses layout for a build. thaks again mark, you rock!
ReplyDeleteHi Mark..cant hear any difference when i move the toggle, tried various diodes but I hear no change ( sounds good tho )...what is the toggle please..im using on..on ..is it worth changing to on..off ??
ReplyDeleteANYONE ???
ReplyDeleteupdate..on..off sorted it with 4148's installed
ReplyDeleteSorry been out today. You need to use the middle lug and either of the two outer lugs. Then one position puts whichever diode you want to use in circuit, the other positions removes it from the circuit.
ReplyDeleteYeah thanks mark..I understand the concept, but just couldnt hear a difference..I even tried it by removing the switch from the wires and open..closing the circuit by touching the wires..in desperation I tried on..on switch...and it certainly worked..not sure how..but it sounds great...like a beefed up treble booster.. kinda lol..its hard to describe tone in words !!
ReplyDeletei tried to build this but added a BMP tone stack to the front of it... having trouble getting the LED's/diodes to work. i did the hard wire version... can you help?
ReplyDeleteThanks, IvIark. This one works and sounds pretty amazing. I have 2 questions though. This build seems pretty noisy, is that the design or is there something I can do to fix the fizzy hissiness? Also, I seem to have the same issue as Tomo above in that the switch doesn't seem to do anything, and I am using a pair of 1N4148's. Any thoughts? Thanks.
ReplyDeleteHey - just checking again, but will it work if I just build without the switch since I can't seem to hear the difference with it? Will that be the closest to stock?
ReplyDeleteIf you can't hear any difference then something is wrong with your build. The switch adds diodes to ground at the output which will have an obvious difference of additional dirt and reduced volume.
DeleteWill this fit into a 1590A?
ReplyDeleteWill this fit into a 1590A Enclosure?
ReplyDeleteYes comfortably
DeleteBuilt this today. I omitted both the diodes as I wanted a clean booster, I couldn't find a 4n7 cap so I used a 3n9 but it sounds very well, loud clean and noiseless, thank you so much for sharing your layouts.
ReplyDeleteRob
Is the toggle switch is a SPDT ON/ON?
ReplyDeleteYes. Single pole on-on.
Delete+m
Hi I just built the cot50 but is making like a motorcycle sound when on, what could be wrong? Please let me know, thanks!
ReplyDeleteHi I just built the cot50 but is making like a motorcycle sound when on, what could be wrong? Please let me know, thanks!
ReplyDeleteA bad connection (particularly a ground somewhere) could cause this type of unwanted noise. Just to check that everything else is ok, what voltages are you getting between all the transistor pins and ground? Posting high res front and back pics will also be helpful because just telling us the symptoms isn't really giving us enough to go on when there could be many causes. Unwanted bridge, misplaced components, bad solder joint etc etc
DeleteI build just another one, and when i turn down the volume on my guitar it jumps suddenly in volume and distorts. Any idea why? Its like an impedance thing.
ReplyDeleteWell it stopped doing it, so i guess it must have been a earth/shield thing....?
DeleteI have some hiss when i turn down the guitar volume a little???
ReplyDeletePlease help, it reacts strange whith the guitar volume and hiss a lot. 2N5089 is what i used...And the 100u is 10v. Is that too little?
DeleteWell, i found out that the 2N5089 is very noisy and swapped it with a BC449C which really suits this little box. No more noise....
ReplyDeleteHi Mark.. Firstly, thanks for all the layouts!
ReplyDeleteI've just finished this COT50 (using 1n4148 diodes and a 2n5088 and a 5k pot. Didn't have a 1k) and I'm getting a soft, fizzy sound in the background. Almost like a soft fuzz sound. Any idea what may be wrong? I'm pretty new to pedal building so I may have missed something simple..
Thanks
It's probably a cold joint somewhere or something like that. Check all your connections and reflow if necessary, plus check for any unwanted bridges being made anywhere
DeleteGreat. Thanks a lot!
DeleteSorry, another question.. Could be a stupid one but is it possible to add a tone pot to this? Mine is very bright..
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteIs there a capacitor-swop solution for the brightness? I know increasing some caps can allow more bass through but can I cut some highs in a similar way?
ReplyDeleteIs it my imagination or is this a different layout than before? The one before showed the switch for the diodes and the volume control. Not that I need it, but did it change?
ReplyDeleteNo it's not changed, I don't think I've done one with a volume pot. Are you sure you're thinking of the COT50 and not one of the other Electra type effects?
DeleteNO, I'm an idiot! I just ADDED the volume control. The switch is there but I wanted a output limiter so I added one. DUH!!!!!!!! Mike
ReplyDeleteMy brain sometimes gets in my own way. Mike.
ReplyDeleteIs this positive ground or negative? Can I use it with a pedal tank "fueling" more pedals from the same power supply?
ReplyDeleteTHX !
It's negative so yes no problem daisy chaining your supply
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
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DeleteFinished! Added volume as without it it was too loud. 1N4001's for some nice dirt. Great pedal! Thank you!
ReplyDeleteHi! If i would like to add more bass here what should i do? And I have only C10K, B5K and A10K pots, which one from these is the best here?
ReplyDeleteYou'll definitely want a 1K pot for this one.
Delete+m
Its really necessary? And What about more bass?
DeleteYou could try 2k pot, but 5k or higher value will give you very poor control. For more lows, you could sub the 4n7 for 10n or 22n. That'll let more lows in.
Delete+m
This comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteHi! Do you think I could build the COT50 using a different transistor like a BC109? Would I need to adjust the collector resistor? Thanks!
ReplyDeleteCorrect. You can sub any npn transistor, Si or Ge as long as you adjust the bias resistors.
DeleteLike a couple of others l seem to have the problem that the diodes don't do anything when I switch them in?
ReplyDeleteGreetings!! I am wanting to add a clipping switch with different options. LEDs and ge diodes and leave the originals in there. Was wondering which switch to use. Would I use a dpdt on on on? Wire diodes LEDs on outer lugs and run board LEDs on inner lugs? Thnx!
ReplyDeleteyou're not going to be able to have 3 different clipping options with a DPDT switch, you will need a rotary switch. if you want to have two different clipping options, for example the originals and LED's then you'll need a DPDT ON-ON switch, you'll remove the diodes from the board, and put one set on the top two lugs, the second set on the bottom two lugs, and the middle two connect to the board where the diodes once were. you can use DPDT ON-ON-ON switch, which would make the middle switch no diodes at all.
DeleteOk, thnx Zach!
ReplyDeleteanytime buddy. do you want me to make a layout for you with a dpdt switch, and one with as rotary switch for you?
DeleteHey zach! Finally getting around to this. That would be awesome!!!!! I'm looking at the Fred Briggs molded version of this to. Don't know which one to do. Although I like the idea of having multiple clipping options. Thnx everyone...
Delete9 out of 10 of these vero layouts do not work..these comments have to be fake or something ..I am beginning to believe this is a joke site
ReplyDeletethere is no way this layout works..i will mail you my project and let you look at it because its perfect ..if this is :verified" my pedal should kick on and work ..
ReplyDeletenone of these layouts work..I only get the effect when I follow a schematic and wired them p2p on perfboard myself ..only 1-2 of the layouts on this website actually work
there is no way this layout works..i will mail you my project and let you look at it because its perfect ..if this is :verified" my pedal should kick on and work ..
ReplyDeletenone of these layouts work..I only get the effect when I follow a schematic and wired them p2p on perfboard myself ..only 1-2 of the layouts on this website actually work
9 out of 10 of these vero layouts do not work..these comments have to be fake or something ..I am beginning to believe this is a joke site
ReplyDeleterick, i hard to tell you this, but you are completely wrong. if a layout is marked as verified it has been built and works correctly. if you've been trying to build some of them and it doesn't work that means there's an error in your build. i'm sure someone would gladly help you out, if you were to ask. there are plenty of us that have build these effects without issue, just take a look at the forum.
Deletedon't blame the layout for your build issues. this effect, as well as many other lovepedals is a basic electra distortion, and a very simple and easy build. if you would like help just ask, don't start posting bs saying that "9 out of 10 of these vero layouts do not work." i find it difficult to believe that you can do it p2p, but not vero, sorry buddy.
edit: i hate to tell you, not hard to tell you.
DeleteTo make this more bass friendly I would need to vary the 4n7 and 100n input and output caps, correct? Would it be reasonable to start by increasing those values to let more lows in/out (I think the closest I would have to doubling them is 10n and 470n)?
ReplyDeletethis is basically an electra distortion. if you want to make it bass friendly you're going to need to raise the caps you mention, 4n7 input & 100nF output, a lot. my suggestions is the 4n7 should be around 470nF, and the 100nF could be fine or raise it to 470nF as well.
DeleteThanks - I'll probably build a naked guitar one and then socket one for bass and try a few different options.
DeleteIf I wanted to add some different diode clipping options, could I do that with an On-Off-On DPDT? I understand how it could work with an On-On-On, but I don't have one. I was thinking (not sure if this works) if I jumpered from where the current switch is, and then replaced the diodes with the On-Off-On (with diodes at top and bottom) when I went "Off" it would be the naked circuit and with either "On" I would get the respective diode clipping signal.
Would that work?
remove the diodes from the board and attach the middle lugs of the switch to the top and bottom positions respectively. then you can put one set of diodes on the top two lugs, and another set on the bottom two lugs. the off position will be no diodes on the circuit. if you do this, you can also remove the switch that's on the board, replace it with a jumper, which you can do from the row above C of the transistor to the top row.
DeleteExactly what I was thinking/meant, just better expressed - can't believe I actually understood enough to get it right.
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
Deletelol. it's hard to explain something like that in words, so i'm more impressed i was able to get it out right without a diagram. good luck with the build, btw.
Deletebtw, if you want more of a boost pedal that can get dirty check out either the green giant (Silicon electra distortion) or germanium giant (Germanium electra distortion). both have a pot that allows you to control how much the didoes are in the circuit, so you get more of a variation of distortion, rather then just full or not at all. you can also put the diodes on a switch so you can have 2 different types as well. with this pedal the pot really just adjusts the bias on the transistor which happens to adjust the volume just a hair as you bring the bias up to where it should be. just my $0.02
Thanks, I picked this one just as a first build. The Green/Germanium Giant is on my list, but I'm trying to start small and work my way up. But it isn't that many more pieces so I may just go for the Green Giant (I haven't dabbled in much germanium yet and after reading the thread I don't know if I want to start down that road).
Deleteall 3 effects are based on the same old pedal, the electra distortion. if you don't have any Germanium then do the green giant. or to make it more difficult, you can take a look at the lotus snowjob, which is also an electra distortion based effect, and has a switch for the diodes on or off, so you could just take them off the board and wire a switch like we talked about. with the snowjob you'll have a volume pot rather then a bias pot, so the effect will actually be a true booster.
Deleteall three effects should really have the same number of parts, the green/germanium giant just has an additional pot, everything else is the same parts, just different values.
Just got everything on the standard build - actually sounds surprisingly good. Did 1N5817 on one side, 1N4148 on the other for some pretty different flavors of distortion (much prefer the schottky - didn't really like GE in it).
DeleteThe bias knob does very little - only the last 10% in the clockwise rotation even has the effect engaged. I half-way want to run a 1k resistor there and have a no-knob pedal.
does anyone know what the difference is between this and the lil' china internally?
ReplyDeleteTry original NOS Hitachi 2SC281 in this circuit. Granted I built the one listed here with the trimmer pot. These transistors really make this circuit sound far less farty. Not too expensive but worth it for this and other projects.
ReplyDeletebuilt it , experimented a little bit and ended up with BAT46s and a 2n5089 . the BAT46s makes it less loud (more friendly for home use) and the 2n5089 dirtier. I love it that way
ReplyDeletethanx for sharing and keep up the great work
cheers :)
does anybody know what the Angus mod is about?
ReplyDeleteI'm interested in building this pedal, however I have a question about the two yellow capacitors 4n7 and 100n... what does the yellow component icon represent? Are these caps electrolytic or some special kind? any pointers on reading layouts? specifically reading the color of a component type to determine the correct type used. Thanks!
ReplyDeleteThe electrolytic are the big blue one with the ground side shown. These are polarized and need to be put in the circuit accordingly. The others are Mylar film ceramic or whatever you want to use. They are not polarized. Reading these layouts are very simple. Just learn the components. Resistors, ic's, capacitors, diodes, pots, jfets, mosfets, npn and pnp trainsistors among other things. Read up as much as you can. There is much info on the web! This circuit is a very good place to start. Have fun and happy new year!
Deletegreat, thanks! I was unsure about they type of capacitor indicated by the yellow icon.. thanks for clarifying. I'll use Mylar film for those two. I've built a couple of simple pedals using PCBs, but have not yet tried a overboard layout.. looking forward to trying it out :)
DeleteHi, what's that spdt switch for?, can I use a true-bypass 3pdt switch?. Thank you.
ReplyDeleteThat SPDT switch is for turning the diodes "on" or "off". It' not the bypass for the effect in general. You may want to check the offboard guide for that.
DeleteHi there guys. Just wanting to double check the input cap value on this ( I know people will have their own preference). On the Woodrow and several other layouts the input cap is no lower than 47nf rather than 4.7nf as above having built them both they're very different beasts. Anyone have an original to compare?
ReplyDeletehI,
ReplyDeleteDoes it work with 18V?
Yes, just make sure all of the capacitors you are using are rated at above 18V.
DeleteThere should always be some safe room for capacitor voltages. For 18V circuit, one should use at least 25V rated caps. Preferably 50V.
Delete+m
Hi,
ReplyDeleteI'm a complete newbie, but I succeded to build my first stompbox, a Cot 50 using this kit :
https://www.taydakits.com/instructions/cot50/pages/designators-and-components--16
It works ! But... It doesn't sound the same as the boost part of my Mosky Deluxe Preamp, who is supposed to be a Cot 50. For short, my pedal sounds darker, less volume, less gain. I looked at another schematic on internet here :
http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2010/07/lovepedal-cot50.html
Some values and the number of parts looks different.
Also, on my kit (see first link) there is a part where "opt" is written. Does it mean that I can ovoid using this, and only put a jumper ?
Again, I'm really a beginner, so your help is most welcome. Thank you !!
Hard to tell without knowing more details, or per example, having the schematic Tayda is using for their kit. But per example, the specific transistor you use has an impact on tone, even if they are of the same type (let's say, 2N5088), one may sound different or gainier than the other. In my experience, higher hfe transistors sound gainier and brighter (et's say that 2n588's will vary from 200 to 400 hfe sometimes). You'll need a multimeter with hfe function to get those readings.
Deletethe "opt" part probably can be left out without a link or jumper.
anyone ?
ReplyDeleteHi guys,
ReplyDeleteI just breadborded this. The transistor is bc338, hfe 230.the voltages are
E=0V
B=1.3V
C=6V
Battery 9.1V
Sounds good.but voltages seem not right..
Any comments please!:)
Thanks!
I forgot to mention i set bias by 600ohms fixed resistor
ReplyDeleteHi guys! What would be the best hfe range for this?
ReplyDeleteHello , just built the Cot50 and it's an interesting one , it does sound good as an sound improver/boost and very reactive on guitar volume without diodes in the circuit .
ReplyDeleteHowever i have wasted hours messing with the diodes . As per comments above they do not seem to make any difference in or out of the circuit which is puzzling as the original has them in the schematic but why if they don't do anything ?
I have checked my soldering , it's all good , no bridges and works fine - apart from these diodes doing nothing ?
The only other thing i can think of is that you need to use the Cot50 at ear shattering volume for them to come into play ( i believeit is supposed to be used loud).
Did anybody manage to find a solution to this as plenty have had the same result .
Regards Waldo
Replying to myself here . It works fine , it appears there isn't much difference to the sound with a lot of diodes which is why i thought the switching wasn't working but keep changing them and eventually you will find a difference . It sounds great without the diodes anyway so you could leave them out altogether.
ReplyDeleteThis is an oldie but a goodie. I built one for a buddy of mine. And I like mine so much, I tried to get as close as possible. I added a power protection diode and another cut (plenty of room at the top right) and a pulldown resistor jumping over the hard to see link between the two film caps on the far left. Also changed the input cap from 4.7nf to 47nf. Clipping diodes used are BAT46's. I may also eliminate the switch altogether by adding a link from the first row down to just above the transistor. Slightly higher 2n5088's sounded best. Oh, watch your pinout orientation. The layout is misleading. Thanks for the layout as always guys.
ReplyDelete