Here's a collection of vero (stripboard) and tagboard guitar and bass effect layouts that we have put together covering many classic and popular effects in growing numbers. Many of these have been posted on freestompboxes.org, so check that site out for great discussions on building your own effect pedals. Enjoy the builds and please also visit us on Facebook and Twitter
I just built the rangemaster, and the only way i could get it to work with this layout was with a PNP... Looks to me like this is actually the PNP circuit? Just built the harmonic percolator yesterday... works great! Thanks for all the work! Ben
Hi Mark. Got a query. I have a Digitech XP series pedal. It uses 9V AC power. I just bought a new power supply which suits most my needs, but it cant power this pedal. see : http://hownotomakeapedal.blogspot.com/2011/07/pedalboard-rewire.html
Caveat - it might at 12v but I dont want to risk it!
Is there an easy way to invert DC to AC? So I can use one of the free 9v DC slots. Or, is there are way to drop 12vAC down to 9vAC?
I was thinking like a little hammond box with a jack either side a small circuit in the middle, akin to the Voltage Doubler vero at the top of this page.
What's the current consumption of the pedal? You could use a little piece of vero, 12V supply to the top rail, ground to the bottom and a 9V1 zener diode from supply to ground. That will dump to ground everything over 9.1V and so should do the trick, but you want a current limiting resistor in series with the 12V supply and the correct one to use is dependent on the consumption of the pedal. If you can check that out, then use this calculator to see what size resistor to use.
Hi Mark Thanks for the info. I will have to check out the consumption of the pedal. the wallwart that comes with is rated to 1300mA! but I think the device says it wants 500mA...still sounds massive to me...
My new psu will only put out 250mA anyway.
Being risqué I tried the 12vAC output and it overloaded the pedal. Plugging the proper PSU back in it works fine. Checked the PSU output - 11vAC (!) must be unregulated. Still, pedal didnt like the 12vAC from my new supply...
Shit sorry mate, that'll teach me to get my brain into gear, I obviously didn't read your post properly because yes that is for dropping a DC supply. Have you thought about trying a pot? It's only a couple of volts you're trying to knock off.
About the 1966: What do the two blue dots "underneath"/inside the trimpot represent? I see where the two leads connect to the vero, on the 2nd and 6th track... but I don't understand what those other two blue dots are... Can you please let me know, as I'm trying to build this one
You can just ignore it. Like the top and bottom of the resistors, it's just the control that allows you to place and resize a component on the layout, in that case it's for the white circle which is used to make the trimpot graphic.
Not sure how id wire a Pot as a voltage reducer for AC. Is it the same as say the kinda starve controls in Devi ever pedals, or the stability in the Fuzz factory?
No the live and neutral are what would be separated by the pot, so the neutral wire would go to what we are used to referring to as ground. I'm just used to using DC supply terminology for everything now coz of these darn stompboxes! :o)
Ok thanks sir, I will have go. Any thoughts on the Pot value, would a 5k likely suffice? Also, would it need to be any special pot or would the standard 16mm alphas suffice?
Sorry again for inane questions and thanks for taking the time to reply.
Can the Voltage Regulator on the pwr supply be substituted for anything that would be normally availible at Mammoth Elec. or Smallbear? I plan on using it as a charge pump and just reducing the 17v down to 12v via currant limiting resistor for use with a Trex Viper (Univibe) as my pedalboard is pwr'd by a Carl Martin pwr all type supply with only 9v outputs. Do I have this thought out right? Thanx for the layout m8!
Hi mate. The schematic I did it from showed 100K so I just did the layout verbatim. In reality though 20K would definitely be a much more appropriate value, but using a 20K is still not altogether necessary to bias it properly. Use a multimeter and measure the voltage between Q2's collector and ground, then adjust the 100K right down until you're round about 4.5V. You won't have much fine tuning ability because of the trimmer value, but you should still be able to get close enough to 4.5V.
Well it's definitely worth getting some because you can make any PNP effect negative ground which is excellent for germanium effect where quality PNP transistors are much easier to get than NPN.
In the meantime what about the LPB1 or Micro Amp? I also think the SHO is great for adding a bit of sparkle, set about half wway before the gain kicks in.
I'll get some off the Bay... not bad price and as you say, they'll come in handy I'm sure.. I have the SHO and it is a fantastic pedal but I was looking for something a little sharper.. The Blackstar HT I have is massively bass heavy and could do with a high treble bite to it.
I'm thinking maybe a EHX Screaming bird? seems to be standard power too.. and cheap! making it would be better though.
I've never tried the Screaming Bird but it's a small circuit so I'll do a quick layout for it. I think it's actually quite similar to the LPB1 (both of which are negative ground) but I'll dig out the schematic.
Cool! Nice one Mark.. I think they are pretty similar.. I've been watching some Youtube stuff on it adn it sounds pretty good, The partner sounds ok too 'The mole' bass booster.
Yes, NPN transistor builds are almost always negative ground and so ok to daisy chain with Boss-like effects. PNP transistor builds are almost always positive ground (unless they're being used in a negative ground circuit for weird noise-maker fuzz reasons like in some Devi pedals). But with the ICL7660S any positive ground pedal can be easily converted to negative ground which is a real bonus because PNP germanium transistors are so much more consistent than NPN.
I've ordered some ICL7660S so I'll make use of a few of them at some point... Just bagged a EHX screaming bird for £20! wk old and in it's box... can't be bad... well it could be utter crap lol
Note on the voltage doubler: If one uses 1N4007s for diodes and adds one more in series with 9v in wire to provide polarity protection - Voilá - You have pretty stable and solid 15V out!
15V is a bit safer to use with basic ICs as compared to 17,5V :)
---
Rockhound: Build it with 1N4007s and use 12V regulator at 15 out :) +m
Hi Mirosol, I'm also trying to get 12V out of the doubler with 9V in. Are you saying that a regulator needs to be added at the out to knock it down to 12V?
Hey Mark, I'm thinking of building the DAM 1966. I don't want to have a pot for the fuzz control, though. Could I simply throw one of those inline trimmers right where the fuzz wires should be and call it a day?
Awesome. I hate buying pots and knobs even more than I hate soldering them, using them, and looking at them. :)
Now if I could only figure out how to make the entire stompbox shatter after one use, I think I could be coming into some serious cash in the boutique realm.
Would wiring this with a blend knob be as simple as taking the two leads from the board to the switch to a pot's 2nd and 3rd lug, wiring the 2nd and 1st lugs together, and sending that to the 3rd lug of the volume pot?
Didn't realize how unclear my post was. Clearly my brain is scrambled from studying so much.
What I'm saying is that instead of using the switch for the DAM 1966 board, I'd like to use a pot with a blend cap pot. I'd presume that it'd be similar to the blend cap pot on the DAM Red Rooster vero, correct?
Hmmm. You must have something wrong in there.. I've build that pump at least 5 times and i can say that the layout is correct... Solder bridge maybe? +m
If you doubt that shottky, then replace it. But check your board for shorts before you fire it up. Use a loupe or magnifying glass and a sharp knife. Short could explain everything... I mean that shottkys are very diffucult to burn - unless they are in reverse. So if yours is burnt, it must because the voltage is getting to it from the wrong direction. +m
Hi, really want to try to build the 1966. I have some ac128, and some 0c76 on order. Could you advise me about good hfe/gain range? I really like the sound of the one on you tube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KLyYye3Vsz0 will try both sets for comparison just need some help with hfe,Thanks!
A good Fuzz Face pair will probably do the trick well seeing as that is essentially what it is. 80hfe for Q1 and 120hfe for Q2 is often recommended, maybe go a bit lower with Q2 if you want it to clean up better with your guitar volume control. Basically I'd socket them and try a variety to see which you like best.
Hi Mark, thanks for the info, so far have completed the fuzzrong, merkin, and shin-ie with this great site! One other question, so far have not put any switches in other than the stomp variety, I notice this one has a toggle switch spdt? The choices of theses mini switches seems a bit bewildering, Is there a particular one I should be looking for?
There are a few different types used in the layouts, SPDT 2 position, SPDT 3 position, DPDT 2 position, DPDT 3 position on/off/on and DPDT 3 position on/on/on are the ones used most frequently, especially the first 4.
Just about to start the 66, have all the components, but have noticed the turretboard website, has a 470k pot instead of the 47k on your version, do i need to order a different one? Or will 47 of 50k be ok? cheers in advance!
A 470K would be fairly useless in the 1966 as it is. The volume pot creates a high pass filter with either the 4n7 or 10n cap before it, whichever is selected. Assuming full volume that means that with a 47K volume pot the low frequencies will be cut starting from either 339hz or 721hz depending on which cap is selected, hence why some people say that the 4n7 cap is very thin, because a lot of the low frequencies are cut out. If you used a 470K pot, the low frequencies would start to be cut at either 34hz or 72hz, and as the low E string is 82hz, they're both below the lowest frequency note you have on a conventional 6 string guitar. If you did use a 470K, you would essentially get a full frequency response no matter what output cap was selected.
Definitely 47K IMO, and although 470K is also possible, the output caps would both need to be changed to for it to be useful.
You can't use ICL7660 because it has a low frequency oscillator which will squeal in audio effects. MAX1044 is ok, but the ICL7660S can be bought cheaply with free worldwide shipping on eBay:
Got a diode question sparked by the voltage doubler. I've seen a schematic for a very similar circuit which uses 1N4148s instead of the Schottkys you and Keen suggest. Am I right in thinking the 4148s will do the same job but with a greater drop in voltage than the Schottkys?
I don't think the doubler layout is based on Keen's documents, but rather on the datasheet of the chip. All the caps in there control the DC ripple filtering, and in this application, bigger value caps usually give out less ripple.
Refer to pages 10 & 11: http://www.intersil.com/content/dam/Intersil/documents/icl7/icl7660s-a.pdf +m
It's a surprising useful little thing, at least you can try a circuit out at 18V before committing an 18V daughterboard and switch to the build. The Crunch Box is a prime example of a circuit where a few years ago people were raving about it at 18V, but when I tried it I just didn't like it as much. I don't necessarily want the clean headroom in all circuits, and quite like the earlier break up, higher gain and more compression most of the time.
If you want to make it even more useful, add an extra DC socket and take a feed from pin 5 to give you a -9V output too. Good for testing positive ground effects.
Thanks for the idea with the 9V- that certainly would be useful!
For some reason I didn't realize both 18V and 9V- are always present in this configuration. Maybe I should actually take a look at the ICL7660S datasheet
The Emerald Green Distortion sounds beautiful with the extra headroom. It makes it sound more convincing as an amp sim. I think overall I like that particular circuit better at 18V, but it gets dirtier at 9V and that sound is real raunchy and cool
Hey Mark I'm way late to try this idea you talked about but I have a question about it.. Since pin 5 of the 7660 is grounded here I'm getting 0v out of it. But if I remove the link will the 18v still work and give me the -9v?
Well.. I may just try on my breadboard now anyway since I'm curious. But your input is always appreciated :)
Yes it should do mate (or negative whatever the supply voltage is anyway). On different datasheets some show an unused pin 5 left unconnected, and some show it grounded which is why you may see it both ways on various layouts.
I actually tried it on my breadboard and it still didn't work. The 18v worked perfect but pin 5 only put out like .4v or something. I removed it from ground obviously, and tried it with and without a smoothing cap to ground (negative leg to pin 5). Nothing
So I squished together this and the inverter layout on one board for my build. I'd still like to see if it's possible to get both out of a single 7660 but for the time being I just used what I already know works :P
I'd like to get a 15v regulated output. Can I use this layout and just tack an l7815 regulator on the end of this? would I need another 10uf cap from the output to ground after the regulator?
Hello I would like to build the voltage double adding the -9v output from pin 5 but also a 12v out, using a voltage dividier. Would this work to feed a stompbox or should I use a voltage regulator? If it works, and since I can get 12v in many ways tuning the two resistors, how should I choose them so that the stompbox gets the right voltage and current?
Hi, I added a switchable 9 to 18v "pump charge" daughterboard to the E.P. Booster, but i´m getting an annoying whine sound out of it. any thoughts? May be increasing the decoupling cap value). Cheers, Gilberto.
Im getting this in a paralooper I just built. Used 18v for more headroom but now I have a whistley whiney noise that wasn't there at 9v. Did you ever find a solution?
I just built the rangemaster, and the only way i could get it to work with this layout was with a PNP...
ReplyDeleteLooks to me like this is actually the PNP circuit?
Just built the harmonic percolator yesterday... works great! Thanks for all the work!
Ben
Hi Mark. Got a query. I have a Digitech XP series pedal. It uses 9V AC power. I just bought a new power supply which suits most my needs, but it cant power this pedal.
ReplyDeletesee : http://hownotomakeapedal.blogspot.com/2011/07/pedalboard-rewire.html
Caveat - it might at 12v but I dont want to risk it!
Is there an easy way to invert DC to AC? So I can use one of the free 9v DC slots. Or, is there are way to drop 12vAC down to 9vAC?
I was thinking like a little hammond box with a jack either side a small circuit in the middle, akin to the Voltage Doubler vero at the top of this page.
LMK if you get chance. Thanks!
You need an AC adapter. It is too complicated to convert DC to AC - you need an inverter.
DeleteWhat's the current consumption of the pedal? You could use a little piece of vero, 12V supply to the top rail, ground to the bottom and a 9V1 zener diode from supply to ground. That will dump to ground everything over 9.1V and so should do the trick, but you want a current limiting resistor in series with the 12V supply and the correct one to use is dependent on the consumption of the pedal. If you can check that out, then use this calculator to see what size resistor to use.
ReplyDeletehttp://www.reuk.co.uk/Zener-Diode-Voltage-Regulator.htm
Hi Mark
ReplyDeleteThanks for the info. I will have to check out the consumption of the pedal.
the wallwart that comes with is rated to 1300mA! but I think the device says it wants 500mA...still sounds massive to me...
My new psu will only put out 250mA anyway.
Being risqué I tried the 12vAC output and it overloaded the pedal. Plugging the proper PSU back in it works fine. Checked the PSU output - 11vAC (!) must be unregulated. Still, pedal didnt like the 12vAC from my new supply...
Just read thru that link. Is that applicable for AC? Looks like DC to me. But I may be wrong. I dont know much about electricity (!!)
ReplyDeleteShit sorry mate, that'll teach me to get my brain into gear, I obviously didn't read your post properly because yes that is for dropping a DC supply. Have you thought about trying a pot? It's only a couple of volts you're trying to knock off.
ReplyDeleteAbout the 1966:
ReplyDeleteWhat do the two blue dots "underneath"/inside the trimpot represent? I see where the two leads connect to the vero, on the 2nd and 6th track... but I don't understand what those other two blue dots are... Can you please let me know, as I'm trying to build this one
You can just ignore it. Like the top and bottom of the resistors, it's just the control that allows you to place and resize a component on the layout, in that case it's for the white circle which is used to make the trimpot graphic.
ReplyDelete#hey mark
ReplyDeleteNot sure how id wire a Pot as a voltage reducer for AC. Is it the same as say the kinda starve controls in Devi ever pedals, or the stability in the Fuzz factory?
Use it like a volume pot (which is just an AC voltage divider). 12V to 3, Output to 2, Ground to 1.
ReplyDeleteDo you put the Tip and Ring (what would be + and _ on a DC PSU) both to 3 then?
ReplyDeleteSorry for the inane counter questions Im just curious. What is ground on an AC supply? Or doesnt it matter? Is there a + and - side?
No the live and neutral are what would be separated by the pot, so the neutral wire would go to what we are used to referring to as ground. I'm just used to using DC supply terminology for everything now coz of these darn stompboxes! :o)
ReplyDeleteOk thanks sir, I will have go. Any thoughts on the Pot value, would a 5k likely suffice? Also, would it need to be any special pot or would the standard 16mm alphas suffice?
ReplyDeleteSorry again for inane questions and thanks for taking the time to reply.
Can the Voltage Regulator on the pwr supply be substituted for anything that would be normally availible at Mammoth Elec. or Smallbear? I plan on using it as a charge pump and just reducing the 17v down to 12v via currant limiting resistor for use with a Trex Viper (Univibe) as my pedalboard is pwr'd by a Carl Martin pwr all type supply with only 9v outputs. Do I have this thought out right? Thanx for the layout m8!
ReplyDeleteI built the lofo mofo a few days back, works great (for what it does). Thanks for the layout!
ReplyDeletewhat transistor & value of pot are used in the rangemaster layout?
ReplyDeleteAnd can this be powered with a modern supply?
Thanks
Tony
Hey Toboy, I built mine with a 10k linear pot and an OC140 but I think any npn Ge will do...
ReplyDeleteThe LPB1 circuit makes a great silicon treble booster if you change the input/output caps to 2.2 nf :)
Hey mate, is the 100k trim on the 1966 supposed to be 20k? Also would Ac128s work. I'm having trouble getting this to sound right. Thanks Mark
ReplyDeleteHi mate. The schematic I did it from showed 100K so I just did the layout verbatim. In reality though 20K would definitely be a much more appropriate value, but using a 20K is still not altogether necessary to bias it properly. Use a multimeter and measure the voltage between Q2's collector and ground, then adjust the 100K right down until you're round about 4.5V. You won't have much fine tuning ability because of the trimmer value, but you should still be able to get close enough to 4.5V.
DeleteThanks mate, got it going now. Really like the sound of this circuit, Thanks a lot
DeleteLooking at the Rangemaster, This can't be daisy chained right? also what transistor was used/recommended and the pot value and the diode is?
ReplyDeleteCheers mate.
Have you got any ICL7660S? You could make a PNP Rangemaster that can be daisy chained if you do.
DeleteNo I don't... Ideally I was looking for a daisy chainer. Was just looking for something to sharpen up my Blackstar.
DeleteWell it's definitely worth getting some because you can make any PNP effect negative ground which is excellent for germanium effect where quality PNP transistors are much easier to get than NPN.
DeleteIn the meantime what about the LPB1 or Micro Amp? I also think the SHO is great for adding a bit of sparkle, set about half wway before the gain kicks in.
I'll get some off the Bay... not bad price and as you say, they'll come in handy I'm sure.. I have the SHO and it is a fantastic pedal but I was looking for something a little sharper.. The Blackstar HT I have is massively bass heavy and could do with a high treble bite to it.
DeleteI'm thinking maybe a EHX Screaming bird? seems to be standard power too.. and cheap! making it would be better though.
I've never tried the Screaming Bird but it's a small circuit so I'll do a quick layout for it. I think it's actually quite similar to the LPB1 (both of which are negative ground) but I'll dig out the schematic.
DeleteCool! Nice one Mark.. I think they are pretty similar.. I've been watching some Youtube stuff on it adn it sounds pretty good, The partner sounds ok too 'The mole' bass booster.
DeleteJust to clarify, Neg ground is the 'standard' type? i.e, BOSS style?
DeleteYes, NPN transistor builds are almost always negative ground and so ok to daisy chain with Boss-like effects. PNP transistor builds are almost always positive ground (unless they're being used in a negative ground circuit for weird noise-maker fuzz reasons like in some Devi pedals). But with the ICL7660S any positive ground pedal can be easily converted to negative ground which is a real bonus because PNP germanium transistors are so much more consistent than NPN.
DeleteI've ordered some ICL7660S so I'll make use of a few of them at some point... Just bagged a EHX screaming bird for £20! wk old and in it's box... can't be bad... well it could be utter crap lol
DeleteLol, can't believe you're not building it!
DeleteThere's no layout of it that I can find.. I'd still build one as it seems simple enough. I'd probably sell the original and keep my build :)
DeleteThere's anyone 9 to 12v? Its for connecticting my whammy with a boss transformer. Thanks
ReplyDeleteThere's anyone 9 to 12v? Its for connecticting my whammy with a boss transformer. Thanks
ReplyDeleteNote on the voltage doubler: If one uses 1N4007s for diodes and adds one more in series with 9v in wire to provide polarity protection - Voilá - You have pretty stable and solid 15V out!
ReplyDelete15V is a bit safer to use with basic ICs as compared to 17,5V :)
---
Rockhound: Build it with 1N4007s and use 12V regulator at 15 out :)
+m
Hi Mirosol, I'm also trying to get 12V out of the doubler with 9V in. Are you saying that a regulator needs to be added at the out to knock it down to 12V?
DeleteSorry for the n00b question ...
What would the layout of a 25V charge pump look like (9v to 25v)? Do I need 4 diodes then?
ReplyDeleteCheck the pump that's with Boob Tube. That has 25V out...
Deletehttp://tagboardeffects.blogspot.fi/2012/04/boob-tube-v15.html
+m
Yes but I don't want the parts for a 17V and a 33V output, just 25V
ReplyDeleteHey Mark, I'm thinking of building the DAM 1966. I don't want to have a pot for the fuzz control, though. Could I simply throw one of those inline trimmers right where the fuzz wires should be and call it a day?
ReplyDeleteThat should work. And you would still have a chance of trimming it..
Delete+m
Awesome. I hate buying pots and knobs even more than I hate soldering them, using them, and looking at them. :)
DeleteNow if I could only figure out how to make the entire stompbox shatter after one use, I think I could be coming into some serious cash in the boutique realm.
That's easy. Get your solder from dx.com and you're all set. :)
Delete(seriously, that 200g spool is the worst solder i've ever seen)
+m
Would wiring this with a blend knob be as simple as taking the two leads from the board to the switch to a pot's 2nd and 3rd lug, wiring the 2nd and 1st lugs together, and sending that to the 3rd lug of the volume pot?
ReplyDeleteDidn't realize how unclear my post was. Clearly my brain is scrambled from studying so much.
ReplyDeleteWhat I'm saying is that instead of using the switch for the DAM 1966 board, I'd like to use a pot with a blend cap pot. I'd presume that it'd be similar to the blend cap pot on the DAM Red Rooster vero, correct?
Yes just wire it exactly like the Red Rooster and it'll work fine.
Deletebuild the pump...instead of 17is I get 7ish volts. talking about fail.great site but I guess I''d better give up.
ReplyDeleteHmmm. You must have something wrong in there.. I've build that pump at least 5 times and i can say that the layout is correct... Solder bridge maybe?
Delete+m
I'm sure it is correct - I was just frostrated with myself. the voltage drops after the 1st schottky so maybe I burnd it...
DeleteIf you doubt that shottky, then replace it. But check your board for shorts before you fire it up. Use a loupe or magnifying glass and a sharp knife.
DeleteShort could explain everything... I mean that shottkys are very diffucult to burn - unless they are in reverse. So if yours is burnt, it must because the voltage is getting to it from the wrong direction.
+m
Hi,
ReplyDeletereally want to try to build the 1966. I have some ac128, and some 0c76 on order. Could you advise me about good hfe/gain range? I really like the sound of the one on you tube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KLyYye3Vsz0
will try both sets for comparison just need some help with hfe,Thanks!
A good Fuzz Face pair will probably do the trick well seeing as that is essentially what it is. 80hfe for Q1 and 120hfe for Q2 is often recommended, maybe go a bit lower with Q2 if you want it to clean up better with your guitar volume control. Basically I'd socket them and try a variety to see which you like best.
DeleteHi Mark,
Deletethanks for the info, so far have completed the fuzzrong, merkin, and shin-ie with this great site!
One other question, so far have not put any switches in other than the stomp variety, I notice this one has a toggle switch spdt? The choices of theses mini switches seems a bit bewildering, Is there a particular one I should be looking for?
There are a few different types used in the layouts, SPDT 2 position, SPDT 3 position, DPDT 2 position, DPDT 3 position on/off/on and DPDT 3 position on/on/on are the ones used most frequently, especially the first 4.
DeleteActually it appears from pictures to be a rotary switch? A simple on off rotary, would that do? Sorry a bit of a dunce about this! cheers
ReplyDeleteJust about to start the 66, have all the components, but have noticed the turretboard website, has a 470k pot instead of the 47k on your version, do i need to order a different one? Or will 47 of 50k be ok? cheers in advance!
ReplyDeleteA 470K would be fairly useless in the 1966 as it is. The volume pot creates a high pass filter with either the 4n7 or 10n cap before it, whichever is selected. Assuming full volume that means that with a 47K volume pot the low frequencies will be cut starting from either 339hz or 721hz depending on which cap is selected, hence why some people say that the 4n7 cap is very thin, because a lot of the low frequencies are cut out. If you used a 470K pot, the low frequencies would start to be cut at either 34hz or 72hz, and as the low E string is 82hz, they're both below the lowest frequency note you have on a conventional 6 string guitar. If you did use a 470K, you would essentially get a full frequency response no matter what output cap was selected.
DeleteDefinitely 47K IMO, and although 470K is also possible, the output caps would both need to be changed to for it to be useful.
Thanks mark, insightful as ever, for a newbie! Cheers.
ReplyDeleteAm In thinking that to turn the Rangemaster into a PNP silicon, I just flip the caps?
ReplyDelete*Am I right in..
DeleteAnd swap the 9V and ground connections.
DeleteI build the 9-18v charge pump for a power boost pedal. Works perfectly and I actually get 18v.
ReplyDeletejust wanted to say thanks!
Woah! According to my meter I'm getting 25.5V out of that charge pump.
ReplyDeleteI can't find ICL7660S for voltage doubler, can I use ICL7660CPAZ? And how if I use MAX1044?
ReplyDeleteYou can't use ICL7660 because it has a low frequency oscillator which will squeal in audio effects. MAX1044 is ok, but the ICL7660S can be bought cheaply with free worldwide shipping on eBay:
Deletehttp://www.ebay.com/itm/280842909068
And they are rated at 12V so I feel a little more comfortable using them over the MAX1044 which is only rated at 10V.
Hi gents,
ReplyDeleteGot a diode question sparked by the voltage doubler. I've seen a schematic for a very similar circuit which uses 1N4148s instead of the Schottkys you and Keen suggest. Am I right in thinking the 4148s will do the same job but with a greater drop in voltage than the Schottkys?
Thanks in advance!
Yes. Schottkys drop less, so the output voltage will be higher than with 4148.
Delete+m
And while we're at it... In his article on geo, Keen suggests 10U for cap 3, is there a reason why you've gone for 47U instead?
ReplyDeleteTa
I don't think the doubler layout is based on Keen's documents, but rather on the datasheet of the chip. All the caps in there control the DC ripple filtering, and in this application, bigger value caps usually give out less ripple.
DeleteRefer to pages 10 & 11:
http://www.intersil.com/content/dam/Intersil/documents/icl7/icl7660s-a.pdf
+m
Thanks Miro... Learning loads from you and lvlark.
DeleteHahaa! I learn new stuff every day :)
Delete+m
I just built the 18V converter in one of those little 1590LB enclosures. I love this thing!
ReplyDeleteThanks for the idea, Mark. It works great! No noise issues whatsoever
http://i825.photobucket.com/albums/zz176/Dub-T-123/3D20E01C-3DEB-4AEB-8197-FEBF02AB4ADE_zpsrbafbw3v.jpg
http://i825.photobucket.com/albums/zz176/Dub-T-123/1C197A82-435B-4E32-A583-81E72EAB4760_zpsynjfupc6.jpg
It's a surprising useful little thing, at least you can try a circuit out at 18V before committing an 18V daughterboard and switch to the build. The Crunch Box is a prime example of a circuit where a few years ago people were raving about it at 18V, but when I tried it I just didn't like it as much. I don't necessarily want the clean headroom in all circuits, and quite like the earlier break up, higher gain and more compression most of the time.
DeleteIf you want to make it even more useful, add an extra DC socket and take a feed from pin 5 to give you a -9V output too. Good for testing positive ground effects.
Thanks for the idea with the 9V- that certainly would be useful!
ReplyDeleteFor some reason I didn't realize both 18V and 9V- are always present in this configuration. Maybe I should actually take a look at the ICL7660S datasheet
The Emerald Green Distortion sounds beautiful with the extra headroom. It makes it sound more convincing as an amp sim. I think overall I like that particular circuit better at 18V, but it gets dirtier at 9V and that sound is real raunchy and cool
Hey Mark I'm way late to try this idea you talked about but I have a question about it.. Since pin 5 of the 7660 is grounded here I'm getting 0v out of it. But if I remove the link will the 18v still work and give me the -9v?
DeleteWell.. I may just try on my breadboard now anyway since I'm curious. But your input is always appreciated :)
Yes it should do mate (or negative whatever the supply voltage is anyway). On different datasheets some show an unused pin 5 left unconnected, and some show it grounded which is why you may see it both ways on various layouts.
DeleteI actually tried it on my breadboard and it still didn't work. The 18v worked perfect but pin 5 only put out like .4v or something. I removed it from ground obviously, and tried it with and without a smoothing cap to ground (negative leg to pin 5). Nothing
DeleteSo I squished together this and the inverter layout on one board for my build. I'd still like to see if it's possible to get both out of a single 7660 but for the time being I just used what I already know works :P
I don't know why it wouldn't work. 18V (ish) and -9V is exactly what the IC is doing in a Klon and that isn't set up in any special way.
DeleteI'd like to get a 15v regulated output. Can I use this layout and just tack an l7815 regulator on the end of this? would I need another 10uf cap from the output to ground after the regulator?
ReplyDeleteI need some 15v for a mistress and a ce-2!
Yes, you'll need an addition filter cap (anything from 10µ to 47µ will do fine) from regulator output to ground. Should be doable.
Delete+m
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DeleteHello I would like to build the voltage double adding the -9v output from pin 5 but also a 12v out, using a voltage dividier. Would this work to feed a stompbox or should I use a voltage regulator? If it works, and since I can get 12v in many ways tuning the two resistors, how should I choose them so that the stompbox gets the right voltage and current?
ReplyDeletethanks
Hi, I added a switchable 9 to 18v "pump charge" daughterboard to the E.P. Booster, but i´m getting an annoying whine sound out of it. any thoughts? May be increasing the decoupling cap value).
ReplyDeleteCheers, Gilberto.
Im getting this in a paralooper I just built. Used 18v for more headroom but now I have a whistley whiney noise that wasn't there at 9v. Did you ever find a solution?
DeleteI must add that I´m using regulated power supply, and never had that whine problem at normal 9v powering.
ReplyDeleteWhy is there a cut after b on the lofo mofo?
ReplyDeleteThanks
ReplyDeleteThe charge pump is working
I used 1N5819 diodes
And the output that i get is 17.99v - 18.02v
Hello,
ReplyDeleteHere is the LOFOMOFO demo vidéo with LOFOMOFUZZ option to go from lofi to fuzz, it's really Mopotrofo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r2_dwnpTw6Y&feature=youtu.be