Here is something a bit different and maybe useful!
It's an "effects loop buffer".
There isn't a schematic for it but you can find the original layout on Ceriatone's forum here.
You can also find all infos on their original manual here.
12/03/17 Layout updated! Moved 220K resistor and link from S to G on the top J201.
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ReplyDeleteThanks for this.
ReplyDeleteThanks Alex!!I actualy have a Ceriatone amp and i needed that!!
ReplyDeletePerfect for my Orange OR80. Thank you!
ReplyDeleteYou guys are the best! I was just gonna make one of these! Thank you so so much!
ReplyDeleteThank you so much for the great post! I have a question though. If I am not mistaken, according to the original layout on Ceriatone's forum (see the link above in the post) there are nine 100µF capacitors, and no 10µF electrolyitc caps. Can I use 100µF caps instead of 10µF? Thank you for the answer!
ReplyDeleteThose are just for filtering.
DeleteYou can use 100uF if you want.
How do you set the trimmer?
DeleteI am not sure, but I read somewhere that the bias has to be set 22 V.
DeleteThank you very much, Alex!
ReplyDeleteI had no luck so far, maybe I messed up the jack wiring, I don't know. I think I built it just like the layout but it has no sound at all. Has anyone tried to build this?
ReplyDeleteYou ever get it working?
DeleteMy build of this has sound until you get all the way to the top of the 220K at the top row (off Ret 2). Looking at the original K-lator layout, I think the layout around the upper J201 is not correct. The 220K connects to the S on the layout, but looks like it connects to the G on the orig K-lator layout. I don't see a path to get the signal from Ret2 to the G on that J201.
ReplyDeleteWhat am I missing?
I think the fix is the link on the left side of the J201 needs to go to the G, not the S on that transistor, and the 220K needs to go to the same row. Looks like I'll need to route it behind the transistor, because there isn't room otherwise (given the cut to the right of the J201 G lead).
ReplyDeleteOK, 2 changes and it seems to be working now. I'm still getting some whine (charge pump?), but perhaps it's just all the wires I have flying around connecting 4 jacks and ground. Here are the 2 changes:
ReplyDelete1. Link on left side of the upper J201 (just to the left of the 500pF cap) goes to the G row, not the S row.
2. Bottom of the 220K connects to the top of that link. Or, remove the existing 220K and put it to the left of the 500pF cap, running from the top row (like the current 220K does) down to the 3rd row down. In other words, 220K across the 500pF cap.
I'm almost ready to say verified with those 2 changes.
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ReplyDeleteIt was a bad charge pump causing the whine.
ReplyDeleteWarning, the voltage on the lower J201 is 31V with 8.6V input. Don't use low voltage electrolytics here. There's a reason the original Ceriatone layout used 50V electrolytics, it seems.
I'm still not quite ready to declare total victory - the bright switches didn't seem to do anything. But all 3 pots work properly. And it passes sound just as you'd expect it to. So call it "mostly verified" for now.
Michael I know it's a long time ago but did your 7660s get very hot, mine is. Also getting 25v at lower socket not 30+v. Any guidance appreciated!
DeleteVerified (with my 2 changes).
ReplyDeleteThanks Michael.
DeleteI've fixed it.
Thanks again for the layout. I've built/played Dxmble amps for several years, and always wanted an external -lator for the effects loop. This is better than anything else because I could fit it in a 125B case. Perfect!
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ReplyDeleteA fuel go along with the flow meter is probably capable of delivering the actual gas that changed into ate up in actual time and this informational statistics
ReplyDeleteOne can't edit posts here?
ReplyDeleteThe upper leg of that 10k resistor should be connected to the other (upper) end of that 100R. Seems like it doesn't matter much, now it only offsets bias voltage slightly.
I'm also having too little gain from my circuit. Unity gain about when send is at 3:00 and return and recovery dimed. JFET's with different Idss values might help, but I think first I'll try connecting a 100uF cap across that 1K resistor.
I'm not clear if anybody got this working satisfactorily. I have some questions regarding connecting the jacks and switches
ReplyDeleteCan somebody please explain the jack, pot and switch connections?
ReplyDeleteSend somebody explain the jacks, pots and switch input/outputs to the board? I am not clear based on the diagram.
ReplyDeleteFace a potentiometer so the knob is facing you. From left to right you have lug 1, 2, then 3.
DeleteCheck this out: https://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2012/02/offboard-wiring.html
Hello thanks i get the 1 2 3 of jacks, etc.. but look at the numbering in the diagram, its confusing. Need to know every connection for a pot, switch and jack. If there are send, return, in, out jacks then why is there a send 3 and rec 3?
ReplyDeleteHi Kleinulator folks, I've just built this apart from J201 which I'm waiting for. Test running it without JFETS the charge pump gets very hot, I have checked many times for shorts. I'm getting 25v at lower socket. Any other tests I can do? Any advice really appreciated?
ReplyDeleteHi, J201s are in and it's working. Bright switches seem to do very little. I built a tube Dumbleator and the bright switches work very well.
ReplyDeleteI'm still concerned about the 7660s temperature. It's around 75 C. As it heats up voltages fall away slightly.
I'm going to fit a heatsink and see how it goes. Could be a bad IC? I might order some of the 85 C variant from Mouser.
Awesome. Here is my build: https://hgecontraptions.blogspot.com/2024/07/hge-contraptions-ceriatone-mini.html
ReplyDelete