Here's a collection of vero (stripboard) and tagboard guitar and bass effect layouts that we have put together covering many classic and popular effects in growing numbers. Many of these have been posted on freestompboxes.org, so check that site out for great discussions on building your own effect pedals. Enjoy the builds and please also visit us on Facebook and Twitter
Not hard at all. But this layout won't help much since the preamp is the bigger half of it. You'd want to draw a layout just for TDA7052 and place that after the preamp of your choosing. +m
Have one of those, and I hate it with passion. The clean sound with my strat was kind of usable, but the od is unsmokeable. With humbuckers I just couldn´t get a clean sound due to lack of headroom. Any of the ROG tonemender versions in front of this kind of little amps with just a tone control, make wonders.
I had this little monster. The speaker and plastic enclosure were total crap, but it sounded interesting with a 10" speaker. I even tried to connect the speaker output to a tube power amp, with quite good results, a warm but fuzzy tone. Very unique, maybe like acacia honey...
I have one of these which I rehoused with a larger speaker. I wanted to share a couple of things I did that I thought were improvements.
1. The 2 clipping diodes shunt to ground (like a Rat), but I moved them to the feedback loop (like a Tubescreamer). On mine, I soldered the diodes in parallel (back to back) between lug 1 & 2 of the gain knob, but if you're building on vero you could add a couple columns and put them from pin 1&2 of IC1. This is a matter of taste, and I often actually prefer the Rat style for OD circuits, but in this circuit I thought the TS style was smoother and more usable. (I'm using a Tele, btw)
2. The tone knob controls both bass and treble response (somewhat similar to how the Big Muff tone control works). I know there are better and more technically correct ways to do this, but I simply used 2 100kA knobs (bass knob from Tone 1 & Tone 2, and Treble knob from Tone 3 & Tone 2). Seems to work ok to open up the tonal options quite a bit.
I recommend using a 16 Ohms speaker or cabinet, as the datasheet for the TDA7052 shows curves of Output Power VS Supply Voltage with different loads, and the 8 Ohms curve (which is the impedance of the speaker in the original amp) stops right at 9v, which tells me it's where it fails and blows up. Better safe than sorry.
I got the amp to work however the TDA7052a was overheating badly. Tried everything....nothing would work until I removed the 4k7 resistor..... then it worked. I have no idea why this should work however it does.
Damn! From a FSB post by rayandkerry in 2018: Now I've got my honeytone apart and I see a surface mount resistor going from the + wire for the speaker into the headphone jack. It's marked 221, which I believe is a 220 ohm resistor. So they have an inline resistor of 220 ohms rather that having a 10 ohm resistor going to ground from the headphone jack sleeve.
I wonder what one method has over another.
//
So! If anyone is still trying this, try placing 220R in series with + wire for the speaker. That could take down the load and stop the chip from heating up...
Miro! Waaa you are awesome. I'm just waiting for verification ;)
ReplyDeleteKeep up the good work my friend.
cool, i have one of these. fun little amp. just had a thought....
ReplyDeleteI wonder how easy it would be to replace the pre section with a 12ax7 tube stage.
something like the real tube 903?
Not hard at all. But this layout won't help much since the preamp is the bigger half of it. You'd want to draw a layout just for TDA7052 and place that after the preamp of your choosing.
Delete+m
this has just shot to the top of my ever increasing build list, thanks Miro :)
ReplyDeleteHave one of those, and I hate it with passion.
ReplyDeleteThe clean sound with my strat was kind of usable, but the od is unsmokeable. With humbuckers I just couldn´t get a clean sound due to lack of headroom.
Any of the ROG tonemender versions in front of this kind of little amps with just a tone control, make wonders.
Sorry for noob question but what is difference between blue break points and white break point?
ReplyDeleteBlue = double link.
ReplyDeleteWhite = line break
thx
DeleteI had this little monster. The speaker and plastic enclosure were total crap, but it sounded interesting with a 10" speaker. I even tried to connect the speaker output to a tube power amp, with quite good results, a warm but fuzzy tone. Very unique, maybe like acacia honey...
ReplyDeleteI have one of these which I rehoused with a larger speaker. I wanted to share a couple of things I did that I thought were improvements.
ReplyDelete1. The 2 clipping diodes shunt to ground (like a Rat), but I moved them to the feedback loop (like a Tubescreamer). On mine, I soldered the diodes in parallel (back to back) between lug 1 & 2 of the gain knob, but if you're building on vero you could add a couple columns and put them from pin 1&2 of IC1. This is a matter of taste, and I often actually prefer the Rat style for OD circuits, but in this circuit I thought the TS style was smoother and more usable. (I'm using a Tele, btw)
2. The tone knob controls both bass and treble response (somewhat similar to how the Big Muff tone control works). I know there are better and more technically correct ways to do this, but I simply used 2 100kA knobs (bass knob from Tone 1 & Tone 2, and Treble knob from Tone 3 & Tone 2). Seems to work ok to open up the tonal options quite a bit.
I'm new to all of this, is there any place where I can learn where to conect all of the "Gain, Volume, Tone etc."?
ReplyDeleteThere's a post on here about offboard wiring that explains how to wire up the pots. http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2012/02/offboard-wiring.html
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
DeleteHi guy’s, in this board, where do i connect the in jack tip and sleeve and the speaker + and - to the offboard wiring diagram?
DeleteThanks
Is there a suitable replacement for the TDA7052 ic?
ReplyDeleteI just built it but there is no sound, what would be the wiring correct?
ReplyDeleteI see the schematic and see the resistor 470k for 47k as in the schematic
ReplyDeleteI recommend using a 16 Ohms speaker or cabinet, as the datasheet for the TDA7052 shows curves of Output Power VS Supply Voltage with different loads, and the 8 Ohms curve (which is the impedance of the speaker in the original amp) stops right at 9v, which tells me it's where it fails and blows up.
ReplyDeleteBetter safe than sorry.
I had built twice. TDA7052 burns like hell. Also there is no sound... Waiting for verification. Thanks anyway.
ReplyDeleteCheck this thread: https://www.ssguitar.com/index.php?topic=3777.0
DeleteApparently there are differences between makes of 7052s...
+m
Thanks for the reply :)
DeleteI've tried "7052" and "7052A"
There must something missing or i am doing sth wrong.
I have the same problem. Checked everything including micro shorts everything appears as per schematic. Is there an alternative for the 7052?
DeleteI got the amp to work however the TDA7052a was overheating badly. Tried everything....nothing would work until I removed the 4k7 resistor..... then it worked. I have no idea why this should work however it does.
ReplyDeleteI've just found a fine guide about using B and A variants of the TDA7052:
ReplyDeletewell, it's at electro-dan :)
https://electro-dan.co.uk/electronics/tda7052.aspx#tda7052a
I do find this strange. Layout seems to be per schematic on FSB. And the schematic seems to be per TDA7052 datasheet application examples.
ReplyDeleteSo if anyone has any ideas, i'll be interested..
+m
Damn!
DeleteFrom a FSB post by rayandkerry in 2018:
Now I've got my honeytone apart and I see a surface mount resistor going from the + wire for the speaker into the headphone jack. It's marked 221, which I believe is a 220 ohm resistor. So they have an inline resistor of 220 ohms rather that having a 10 ohm resistor going to ground from the headphone jack sleeve.
I wonder what one method has over another.
//
So! If anyone is still trying this, try placing 220R in series with + wire for the speaker. That could take down the load and stop the chip from heating up...
+m
The 220r stops the chip from overheating however the volume drops dramatically.
ReplyDelete