Here's a collection of vero (stripboard) and tagboard guitar and bass effect layouts that we have put together covering many classic and popular effects in growing numbers. Many of these have been posted on freestompboxes.org, so check that site out for great discussions on building your own effect pedals. Enjoy the builds and please also visit us on Facebook and Twitter
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Thursday, 14 September 2017
BYOC Parametric EQ
Another "requested" monster layout! At least this one doesn't use any weird components.
You can find all infos and schematic from their website here.
This isn't about the layout. I just want to thank all you gentlemen who devote so much time and effort into creating and maintaining an amazing site. Your layouts have provided me with some amazing sounding pedals and have taught me so much. I am hugely grateful for all that you all do.
NE5532 can replace TL072 and so can TL082, though it is noisier. I would test the 1.5k resistors with a multimeter and use the ones with the highest resistance out of the bunch as 5% carbon resistors could go all the way to 1,575 ohms but you should be fine even if you can't test 'em. The CLR resistor is for the indicator LED and can be anything from 1k-10k ohms as it depends on the LED you use; generally blue is brighter and requires higher resistance while red is dimmer. When in doubt, test it real quick on a breadboard or even with alligator clips since it's a simple circuit
or order them from aliexpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-shipping-100pcs-lot-1-6K-ohm-1-2W-1-1-6K-Metal-Film-Resistor-1/32716677605.html?spm=a2g0s.13010208.99999999.262.6EvKEK
You could always daisy chain two resistors together. I've done that a few times and it's worked out. Get your 1.5K and solder on a 100R. I normally twist the leads together, solder the joint, and then clip off the tag ends. Measure the values before and after.
Alex, Gavin and Gent's I just bought from Amazon 10pcs NE5532P. Unfamiliar what the "P" is for and will these work as a replacement Ok? BTW these are marked Ti. thanks vince
If you use a trimmer you should add a series resistor to prevent the LED from burning out if the trimmer is adjusted too far one direction. Or use a breadboard to select the resistor value that gives you the desired brightness and use a fixed resistor
Gent's Also i have tried to get some PCB's local in my USA and it seems hard to come by. Nobody sells them or is out of stock. Rather put this circuit on a PCB then a perfboard. Anybody feel like making a run off of 4 PCB's for me? thanks
For the clr. A trimmer would work. Any value resistor would work. I've used 1k all the way to 10k. So, a 10-20k trimmer would work. If you have a pcb layout. Ebay has a guy that will make boards for $2-3 each. You could order just one if you want.
Alex uses numbering convention that goes 1-6. 1 to 3 being the upper layer like on single pots. The second layer is 4 to 6 and it goes like: 4 is same as 2-1, 5 is same as 2-2 and 6 is same 2-3. Hope i explained it well enough... Still sipping my morning coffee. +m
Hi, could you explain the difference between the 100n cap shown as a yellow rectangle and the 100n cap shown as a brown oval. I'm guessing that yellow is polybox and brown is met poly? Also the layout shows 12n caps - bitsbox.co.uk only have 10n - is this a reasonable sub or do I have to try harder? Last question - 1044 is a voltage converter? - e.g. TC1044S. Thanks.
there's no difference between the two caps. alex sometimes makes some the nF caps box caps (yellow rectangles) and some standard poly caps (red/brown ovals). haven't built this so can't say if 10nF will make a difference compared to 12nF, but you can easily grab 12nF online from other sources. as for the 1044 voltage inverter TC1044s should be fine.
Just finished building it, and after a bit of troubleshooting managed to get it working. I've wanted one of these things for years, but I'd be damned if I was going to pay the amount they go for. I'm surprised Parametric EQs aren't more widespread in pedal form. Thanks again Alex for another top job!
I've justs built this and it works really well. I managed to get it all into a 1590BB enclosure but it was a hell of a tight fit. It wouldn't work on a power supply with 9V but after checking everything was right, I tried it on a 12V and it works a treat. Very flexible and very clean sound. Thanks guys for doing such a great job on the layout. Saved a ton of money and got a really classy EQ out of this project.
Any noise from that MAX1044? I hear some rain-like/fuzz and do not know its cause. As indicated by BYOC diagram, I put three 10uF electrolytic capacitors with MAX1044. But you put one of 47uF between 2 and 4 and two of 100uF, right? Why?
Having built the 'kit', I would recommend reading this post: http://www.byocelectronics.com/board/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=53506 I have implemented and verified all the mods mentioned in this post.
This isn't about the layout. I just want to thank all you gentlemen who devote so much time and effort into creating and maintaining an amazing site. Your layouts have provided me with some amazing sounding pedals and have taught me so much. I am hugely grateful for all that you all do.
ReplyDeleteAh ouais ! Je débute sur le site, je monte ma 1ère "Chaussure" et je dirais....
DeleteTrop bien !!!!
thank to all you gentlemen who devote so much time and effort on this site
ReplyDeleteQuestion:
ReplyDeleteWhat are subs for the Tl072? And the 1.6k resistors, could i sub 1.5k because i have a ton of those. And what is the CLR bottom right?
NE5532 can replace TL072 and so can TL082, though it is noisier. I would test the 1.5k resistors with a multimeter and use the ones with the highest resistance out of the bunch as 5% carbon resistors could go all the way to 1,575 ohms but you should be fine even if you can't test 'em. The CLR resistor is for the indicator LED and can be anything from 1k-10k ohms as it depends on the LED you use; generally blue is brighter and requires higher resistance while red is dimmer. When in doubt, test it real quick on a breadboard or even with alligator clips since it's a simple circuit
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteor order them from aliexpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-shipping-100pcs-lot-1-6K-ohm-1-2W-1-1-6K-Metal-Film-Resistor-1/32716677605.html?spm=a2g0s.13010208.99999999.262.6EvKEK
ReplyDelete$0.83 per 50 pcs
Monster is right! Yer killin' me!
ReplyDeleteSeriously, thanks so much for all the work that goes into this site. My go-to site for makin' cool stuff.
You could always daisy chain two resistors together. I've done that a few times and it's worked out. Get your 1.5K and solder on a 100R. I normally twist the leads together, solder the joint, and then clip off the tag ends. Measure the values before and after.
ReplyDeleteThanks guys!
ReplyDeletevince
Call it verified! Sounds great. Monster build.
ReplyDeleteCool! Thanks Gavin!
DeleteAlex, Gavin and Gent's
DeleteI just bought from Amazon 10pcs NE5532P. Unfamiliar what the "P" is for and will these work as a replacement Ok? BTW these are marked Ti.
thanks
vince
NE5532, how much noiser will they be to the TL072? More hiss??
ReplyDeletethanks
vince
Nick
ReplyDeleteThe CLR resistor? Could i put a variable miniature pot in it's place? Kind of like, dial it in?
thanks
vince
If you use a trimmer you should add a series resistor to prevent the LED from burning out if the trimmer is adjusted too far one direction. Or use a breadboard to select the resistor value that gives you the desired brightness and use a fixed resistor
DeleteGent's
ReplyDeleteAlso i have tried to get some PCB's local in my USA and it seems hard to come by. Nobody sells them or is out of stock. Rather put this circuit on a PCB then a perfboard. Anybody feel like making a run off of 4 PCB's for me?
thanks
For the clr. A trimmer would work. Any value resistor would work. I've used 1k all the way to 10k. So, a 10-20k trimmer would work. If you have a pcb layout. Ebay has a guy that will make boards for $2-3 each. You could order just one if you want.
DeleteAmazing! This looks like a proper beast. What would I have to do to have just the mid band, so a 1 band parametric?
ReplyDeleteHi guys, what's the pin numbers for the dual potentiometers? Thanks!
ReplyDeleteAlex uses numbering convention that goes 1-6. 1 to 3 being the upper layer like on single pots. The second layer is 4 to 6 and it goes like: 4 is same as 2-1, 5 is same as 2-2 and 6 is same 2-3.
DeleteHope i explained it well enough... Still sipping my morning coffee.
+m
Hi, could you explain the difference between the 100n cap shown as a yellow rectangle and the 100n cap shown as a brown oval. I'm guessing that yellow is polybox and brown is met poly? Also the layout shows 12n caps - bitsbox.co.uk only have 10n - is this a reasonable sub or do I have to try harder? Last question - 1044 is a voltage converter? - e.g. TC1044S. Thanks.
ReplyDeletethere's no difference between the two caps. alex sometimes makes some the nF caps box caps (yellow rectangles) and some standard poly caps (red/brown ovals). haven't built this so can't say if 10nF will make a difference compared to 12nF, but you can easily grab 12nF online from other sources. as for the 1044 voltage inverter TC1044s should be fine.
DeleteCool, thanks.
DeleteHey can I use an LT1054 instead of the 1044? Thanks in advance!
ReplyDeleteJust finished building it, and after a bit of troubleshooting managed to get it working. I've wanted one of these things for years, but I'd be damned if I was going to pay the amount they go for. I'm surprised Parametric EQs aren't more widespread in pedal form. Thanks again Alex for another top job!
ReplyDeleteI've justs built this and it works really well. I managed to get it all into a 1590BB enclosure but it was a hell of a tight fit. It wouldn't work on a power supply with 9V but after checking everything was right, I tried it on a 12V and it works a treat. Very flexible and very clean sound. Thanks guys for doing such a great job on the layout. Saved a ton of money and got a really classy EQ out of this project.
ReplyDeleteEq works great, thank you! https://youtu.be/KHSdJiRUaE8
ReplyDeleteAny noise from that MAX1044? I hear some rain-like/fuzz and do not know its cause. As indicated by BYOC diagram, I put three 10uF electrolytic capacitors with MAX1044. But you put one of 47uF between 2 and 4 and two of 100uF, right? Why?
ReplyDeleteHaving built the 'kit', I would recommend reading this post:
ReplyDeletehttp://www.byocelectronics.com/board/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=53506
I have implemented and verified all the mods mentioned in this post.
layman's question ... can i make this board without a charging pump what should i do ... and how many dc volts should i use
ReplyDelete