You can find original thread and schematic on FSB forum here.
Friday, 29 July 2016
Wampler Sovereign
The Wampler Sovereign Distortion is a versatile beast of a distortion
pedal that is unlike the rest of its ilk. The gain is rich and full of
harmonic overtones, never sounding or feeling fake and stiff.
Surprisingly shapeable and responsive, the non-traditional gain and EQ
controls allow you to tune the pedal to suit any setup, and instead of
just emphasizing a certain frequency range, they actually change the
texture of the gain. With the right settings dialed up, it can nail the
elusive sludgy deep sound loved by stoner metal guitarists, along with
virtually every other shade of high-gain tone a player can imagine.
You can find original thread and schematic on FSB forum here.
You can find original thread and schematic on FSB forum here.
Monday, 25 July 2016
Rockett Flex Drive
Here is a layout for the Rockett Flex Drive.
You can find original thread and schematic here.
The layout has already been verified by Gavin (Hozy31).
Gavin said: "It seems biasing the drain to 4.5v is not the way to go. You need to turn it until you get decent volume on all switch 2 positions"
You can find original thread and schematic here.
The layout has already been verified by Gavin (Hozy31).
Gavin said: "It seems biasing the drain to 4.5v is not the way to go. You need to turn it until you get decent volume on all switch 2 positions"
Sunday, 24 July 2016
Crowther Audio Prunes & Custard
Here is another great pedal we didn't have a layout for.
You can find original thread and schematic here.
You can find original thread and schematic here.
Runoffgroove Condor Cab Sim
This was an old request.
You can find all info and schematic on Runoffgroove website here.
You can find all info and schematic on Runoffgroove website here.
And a version with an added Notch Depth switch.
Wednesday, 20 July 2016
BYOC 27V Boost
Taken directly from BYOC.
Possibly the World's cleanest, most transparent boost. It utilizes the 7660S charge pump's ability to take a standard 9v power supply and output both +18v and -9v. The op-amp based boost circuit takes advantage of the whopping 27v differential to produce 20dB with an amazing amount of headroom. It doesn't matter if you're using active pickups - you will not get any clipping from this boost. Slam it with another boost, it still won't clip! The treble control allows you to cut/boost frequencies above 3k3Hz by 6dB.
To be honest, it's not as small neat as I would like it due to the three different power connections, but here she is.
On the site it says it uses a 7660s for the charge pump, but the schematic shows a MAX1044, remember the two are interchangeable.
Possibly the World's cleanest, most transparent boost. It utilizes the 7660S charge pump's ability to take a standard 9v power supply and output both +18v and -9v. The op-amp based boost circuit takes advantage of the whopping 27v differential to produce 20dB with an amazing amount of headroom. It doesn't matter if you're using active pickups - you will not get any clipping from this boost. Slam it with another boost, it still won't clip! The treble control allows you to cut/boost frequencies above 3k3Hz by 6dB.
To be honest, it's not as small neat as I would like it due to the three different power connections, but here she is.
Friday, 15 July 2016
FYA Garagemaster
This day had to come.
Recently i was asked if i could build a vintage sounding treble booster for modern pedal board. Sure. Why not. And quick looking around showed that there were not that many (!?) rangemaster modernizations around. Or yes there are, but most of them do have something wrong with them - missing vital controls, still using PNP transistors and/or positive ground, sounding too thin or trying to be something completely different, not a treble booster, etc. So i took out the classic Rangemaster schematic and had my way with it. Basics are still there, only with an NPN transistor, large power supply filter cap and a series polarity protection. The switchable input cap is probably the oldest trick in the book, but i tried to voice it so that the frequency response stays at treble boosting area, while still being usable all the way. After all, we're trying to make the best possible treble booster for a modern setup. So to go forward, we got our input pulldown to keep switching POPs to minimum, followed by the "EQ switch" that has a standard 4n7 input cap in circuit all the time, upped by another cap at 2n7 for a fuller frequency response. Transistor also gets its forward bias voltage as the original Rangemaster does, from 470K resistor from supply and 56K resistor to ground. This equals in around 0,958 volts if the supply is at dead 9 volts. Gain is applied by setting the output from between the collector and supply via 10K linear pot. At zero, the output is killed by supply voltage, at maximum the boost amount is enough, or at least enough. This is followed by an output cap (to keep the DC away from the output) that has a slightly bigger value than the original and a another pulldown. Now, what's different in my take on the classic is the "bias" pot. The original Rangemaster would have 3K9 resistor from transistor emitter to ground in parallel with a bypass cap of 47µ value. After a short breadboard session, i settled for 2K7 and a 50K pot in series with it. At maximum, the gain is slightly more than it would be in verbatim Rangemaster clone - and staying clean and soft like a true Rangemaster would. But here's the thing, once we put the 50K+2K7 in parallel with the 47µ, we'll get the misbiased germanium tones ála Hornby Skewes Shatterbox, EHX GeOD and/or Germanium4 Big Muff Pi. If you are familiar with either, you'll know what i'm talking about - that mushroom cloud tone that is both super ugly and yet still pretty cool. The one that makes everythign sound truly broken. In my take of the Rangemaster, i've incorporated a control to set that amount of total destruction to the the classic. This should take you further than a Shatterbox, EHX GeOD and anything else. If not by itself, you should try to boost another pedals with it.
Just finished building a three piece set of these. One for the guy who was asking, one for me and one's for sale. And here's the "factory layout". I hope you are happy with it without a schematic - i just told you what the differences between this and the original Dallas Rangemaster are, so you really shouldn't need one.
The transistor model, gain and leak range- that's one thing i'm keeping a secret. You should be happy with anything - maybe even a 2N3904 could work, if you care to tweak the value of the 2K7.
Oh. The name? The tone of this circuit reminds me a lot of the guitar sounds of the 60s garage bands, such as The Iguanas, The Vistas and so on. Use this circuit to make your modern amplifier sound like the 60s. Yeah. That's the magic in the FYA Garagemaster.
And here are two, more compact versions from Alex. Should be easy fit for 1590A, if you use 9mm pots.
Recently i was asked if i could build a vintage sounding treble booster for modern pedal board. Sure. Why not. And quick looking around showed that there were not that many (!?) rangemaster modernizations around. Or yes there are, but most of them do have something wrong with them - missing vital controls, still using PNP transistors and/or positive ground, sounding too thin or trying to be something completely different, not a treble booster, etc. So i took out the classic Rangemaster schematic and had my way with it. Basics are still there, only with an NPN transistor, large power supply filter cap and a series polarity protection. The switchable input cap is probably the oldest trick in the book, but i tried to voice it so that the frequency response stays at treble boosting area, while still being usable all the way. After all, we're trying to make the best possible treble booster for a modern setup. So to go forward, we got our input pulldown to keep switching POPs to minimum, followed by the "EQ switch" that has a standard 4n7 input cap in circuit all the time, upped by another cap at 2n7 for a fuller frequency response. Transistor also gets its forward bias voltage as the original Rangemaster does, from 470K resistor from supply and 56K resistor to ground. This equals in around 0,958 volts if the supply is at dead 9 volts. Gain is applied by setting the output from between the collector and supply via 10K linear pot. At zero, the output is killed by supply voltage, at maximum the boost amount is enough, or at least enough. This is followed by an output cap (to keep the DC away from the output) that has a slightly bigger value than the original and a another pulldown. Now, what's different in my take on the classic is the "bias" pot. The original Rangemaster would have 3K9 resistor from transistor emitter to ground in parallel with a bypass cap of 47µ value. After a short breadboard session, i settled for 2K7 and a 50K pot in series with it. At maximum, the gain is slightly more than it would be in verbatim Rangemaster clone - and staying clean and soft like a true Rangemaster would. But here's the thing, once we put the 50K+2K7 in parallel with the 47µ, we'll get the misbiased germanium tones ála Hornby Skewes Shatterbox, EHX GeOD and/or Germanium4 Big Muff Pi. If you are familiar with either, you'll know what i'm talking about - that mushroom cloud tone that is both super ugly and yet still pretty cool. The one that makes everythign sound truly broken. In my take of the Rangemaster, i've incorporated a control to set that amount of total destruction to the the classic. This should take you further than a Shatterbox, EHX GeOD and anything else. If not by itself, you should try to boost another pedals with it.
Just finished building a three piece set of these. One for the guy who was asking, one for me and one's for sale. And here's the "factory layout". I hope you are happy with it without a schematic - i just told you what the differences between this and the original Dallas Rangemaster are, so you really shouldn't need one.
The transistor model, gain and leak range- that's one thing i'm keeping a secret. You should be happy with anything - maybe even a 2N3904 could work, if you care to tweak the value of the 2K7.
Oh. The name? The tone of this circuit reminds me a lot of the guitar sounds of the 60s garage bands, such as The Iguanas, The Vistas and so on. Use this circuit to make your modern amplifier sound like the 60s. Yeah. That's the magic in the FYA Garagemaster.
Tuesday, 12 July 2016
Mesa/Boogie Throttle Box
Another circuit by Mesa Boogie.
This one uses an Inductor, a dual LED and a different Bypass Switch wiring.
There's already an unverified layout (multiple boards) by Savvas in the Contributions section of the forum but I wanted to add one on a single board.
You can find the original thread and schematic here.
This one uses an Inductor, a dual LED and a different Bypass Switch wiring.
There's already an unverified layout (multiple boards) by Savvas in the Contributions section of the forum but I wanted to add one on a single board.
You can find the original thread and schematic here.
Sunday, 10 July 2016
Mesa/Boogie Flux-Drive
A slightly modified version of Xotic BB Preamp from Mesa Boogie.
You can find original thread and schematic here.
You can find original thread and schematic here.
Saturday, 9 July 2016
Smallsound/Bigsound Mini Overdrive
A "Mini" version of Smallsound/Bigsound Fuck Overdrive.
Thanks to Brian for uploading his original schematic!
(You can find original thread and schematic here.)
11/07/16 Layout updated!
Brian has suggested to use J201 for Q2 & Q4 and to add a 10K trimpot between V+ and the Bias pot.
Thanks to Brian for uploading his original schematic!
(You can find original thread and schematic here.)
11/07/16 Layout updated!
Brian has suggested to use J201 for Q2 & Q4 and to add a 10K trimpot between V+ and the Bias pot.
