Here's a collection of vero (stripboard) and tagboard guitar and bass effect layouts that we have put together covering many classic and popular effects in growing numbers. Many of these have been posted on freestompboxes.org, so check that site out for great discussions on building your own effect pedals. Enjoy the builds and please also visit us on Facebook and Twitter
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Sunday, 29 May 2016
Way Huge Green Rhino MK II
Here is a layout for the Way Huge Green Rhino MKII overdrive.
I would like to thank Ciaran Haslett for drawing a schematic by reverse engineering his own pedal.
Hi Alex, could you tell me what the green dots on two of the connectors mean? I guess it means that at the green dot there is also a connection to the vero at this spot, but just wanted to check. First time i've seen this. Cheers
Oh there was a really thin bridge of solder between two rows, which I could only see with a magnifying glass :/ Check that first after you're done with the build, usually those are the most common problems for symptoms like this :)
Yes there should. Those act as an input buffer, so input signal at all bases, supply voltage at all collectors and low impedance output at all emitters. +m
Has anyone analysed the circuit? Definitely want to make one, but I'm not familiar with this many op-amps in one circuit :) I've done some work and made a schematic following the OP diagram: http://imgur.com/zVplT3O
like vol 1,2,3. usually its one vol, shows where the return is for gain pots ect. the tone 1,2,3 is it a toggle between the 3? i guess a hand as to where the leads go.......
Hi, I am trying to build this pedal in a breadboard by interpreting the schematic. I am learning and don't have a lot of knowledge...... Can someone specify wich pins for the LM833 and LF347 are in the schematic ( there it is only marked as - , + and nothing in the output). Thank you!
Hey man, the pins are placed as seen in the picture. All of them are used. You can easily find the data sheets doing a quick search: http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/lm833-n.pdf . There you can trace the different pins. Sorry if I misunderstood you.
Thanks Kafzilla. I am not following the layout , I am following the schematic to implement the circuit in a breadboard ( to learn ) and I cant "trace" which pin is which with the help of the layout ( I get lost in the laberynth of connections). In the schematic it is only marked as : + , - or nothing in each point of the triangle that is supposed to be the ICs ( or whatever is the LM833 and LF347). The schematic I am following is : http://www.freestompboxes.org/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=23141&p=263514&#p263514
Right, the triangle represents an OP-amp. If you look at page 2 in my link (the LM833-n datasheet) there is a picture showing the internal layout of the IC. The +VCC/-VEE is for the supply voltage for the IC which is not marked on the pedal layout. The +IN/-IN is the +/- on the triangle in the layout. E.g. the LM833 has two OP-amps inside it (A and B). The half-circle on the IC indicates the orientation.
Thank you very much! Just to be sure......even if it is not written in the layout, I have to connect +VCC(in the OP-amp) to VCC and -VEE(in the OP-amp) to ground in the circuit, right? I will try it again! ( why do they not write that in the circuit to begin with?, ink is ship!)
I was puzzled about that.....In this schematic there are components connected straight to 9v and other to Vref. Where should I connect VCC in each op-amp, 9v or Vref? ( I have tried both but no success so far building it in the breadboard, might I have damaged the Op-Amps by connecting them in a wrong way previously? , how do you check if an Op-amp is fine working? Thank you Kafzilla!
I would guess that Vcc~9V. Vref is maybe somewhere halfway between 0-9V. Haven't built the pedal myself yet. I'd google it or watch some youtube videos :) Might also be loose connections in the breadboard.
Ive been on an overdrive making binge lately. This is such a cool ts variant. The 100hz knob is an awesome feature. Its great for fattening single coils and also handy for losing flabbyness when playing a seven string.
Thank you Ciaran and Alex for all your work on this.How can we get a copy of the schematic?
ReplyDeleteIt's in the Forum/Open Chat.
ReplyDeleteThe one place i didn't look,my bad duhh sorry about that.
ReplyDeleteWhy there are four transistor stacked in that way?
ReplyDeletealguem pode me passa o layout desse pedal??? hebertfreitas123@gmail.com
ReplyDeleteBuilt it, but only buzzing comes out of it, and the lf347 gets really hot quickly. Did someone had luck building this?
ReplyDeleteHi Alex, could you tell me what the green dots on two of the connectors mean? I guess it means that at the green dot there is also a connection to the vero at this spot, but just wanted to check. First time i've seen this. Cheers
ReplyDeleteOh, i mean on the vero layout.
DeleteThe green dot is 2 links connecting together.
DeleteYou just solder them together at that point.
Great, thanks Alex. Hope to have this done later in the week. I wanted to say "up and running this week" but dont want to get to far ahead of myself.
DeleteVerified! Another great OD. Thanks Alex and Ciaran.
ReplyDeleteCool! Thanks Gavin!
DeleteHappy days! Cheers Gav (Hozy?)
DeleteJust finished mine! I'm not very fond of the TS family, but boy, this one sounds great!
ReplyDeletehttps://scontent.fudi1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13600316_1120186364691895_6809369163886286529_n.jpg?oh=8360cba100b1bb34d7fdc759f07da3fd&oe=582FBB38
Cool enclosure! Is that a Hammond 1411, or different one?
DeleteThanks Balázs! I got them custom made here in Brazil!
DeleteFinished it, waaay better sounding than the ts808 for example. With a strat and the 100hz knob on max, it sounds amazing!
ReplyDeleteHi,
Deletewhat was the problem with the IC getting hot?
Oh there was a really thin bridge of solder between two rows, which I could only see with a magnifying glass :/ Check that first after you're done with the build, usually those are the most common problems for symptoms like this :)
DeleteResistor value error folks. Change the pulldown 10K on OUT (between the 1u and 10u caps) to 1 Meg. Sorry about that.
ReplyDeleteThanks Ciaran.
DeleteIt's been corrected.
Hi should there be any sound coming of the emmiter side of the 4 transistors (in a row).
ReplyDeleteYes there should. Those act as an input buffer, so input signal at all bases, supply voltage at all collectors and low impedance output at all emitters.
Delete+m
Thanks for your help.
DeleteHi,
ReplyDeleteOn the emmiter side of the 4 transistors not getting any audio signal and the voltage is 4.5v on the emmiter side is this to high?
On mine the drive and the volume pots don't seems to work. Can someone help me? Excuse my english i'm french
ReplyDeleteCheck continuity between the ic pin 2 and drive pot 2&3.
DeleteDoes anyone have the the vref voltages I'm getting 5v on most of the ic pins but a huge amount of distortion at the output sounds great though.
ReplyDeleteCan anyone share the schematics? Can't find any in the usual places (or I lack google skills). Thank you!!
ReplyDeleteThey are in the Forum, make sure you pick the right one as there is two of them when you do a search.
DeleteHas anyone analysed the circuit? Definitely want to make one, but I'm not familiar with this many op-amps in one circuit :) I've done some work and made a schematic following the OP diagram: http://imgur.com/zVplT3O
ReplyDeleteOk, just found the forum (doh). Should there be any notable difference in using LF347 instead of LF353N ?
DeleteSorry if this is a dumb question. but in other vero layouts it specifys what goes to switchs ect. or should i find a schematic?
ReplyDeleteI don't understand your question. It's all in there.
Deletelike vol 1,2,3. usually its one vol, shows where the return is for gain pots ect. the tone 1,2,3 is it a toggle between the 3? i guess a hand as to where the leads go.......
ReplyDeleteClick the offboard wiring tab at the top of the page
DeleteHi,
ReplyDeleteI am trying to build this pedal in a breadboard by interpreting the schematic. I am learning and don't have a lot of knowledge......
Can someone specify wich pins for the LM833 and LF347 are in the schematic ( there it is only marked as - , + and nothing in the output).
Thank you!
Hey man, the pins are placed as seen in the picture. All of them are used. You can easily find the data sheets doing a quick search: http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/lm833-n.pdf . There you can trace the different pins.
DeleteSorry if I misunderstood you.
Thanks Kafzilla.
DeleteI am not following the layout , I am following the schematic to implement the circuit in a breadboard ( to learn ) and I cant "trace" which pin is which with the help of the layout ( I get lost in the laberynth of connections). In the schematic it is only marked as : + , - or nothing in each point of the triangle that is supposed to be the ICs ( or whatever is the LM833 and LF347).
The schematic I am following is :
http://www.freestompboxes.org/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=23141&p=263514&#p263514
Right, the triangle represents an OP-amp. If you look at page 2 in my link (the LM833-n datasheet) there is a picture showing the internal layout of the IC. The +VCC/-VEE is for the supply voltage for the IC which is not marked on the pedal layout. The +IN/-IN is the +/- on the triangle in the layout. E.g. the LM833 has two OP-amps inside it (A and B). The half-circle on the IC indicates the orientation.
DeleteThank you very much!
DeleteJust to be sure......even if it is not written in the layout, I have to connect +VCC(in the OP-amp) to VCC and -VEE(in the OP-amp) to ground in the circuit, right?
I will try it again!
( why do they not write that in the circuit to begin with?, ink is ship!)
Yes, it's implied that the OP-amp doesn't work for free. It's sort of like stating that you need to put gas on your car :)
DeleteI was puzzled about that.....In this schematic there are components connected straight to 9v and other to Vref. Where should I connect VCC in each op-amp, 9v or Vref?
Delete( I have tried both but no success so far building it in the breadboard, might I have damaged the Op-Amps by connecting them in a wrong way previously? , how do you check if an Op-amp is fine working?
Thank you Kafzilla!
I would guess that Vcc~9V. Vref is maybe somewhere halfway between 0-9V. Haven't built the pedal myself yet. I'd google it or watch some youtube videos :) Might also be loose connections in the breadboard.
DeleteIve been on an overdrive making binge lately. This is such a cool ts variant. The 100hz knob is an awesome feature. Its great for fattening single coils and also handy for losing flabbyness when playing a seven string.
ReplyDeleteWhat diodes did everybody use?
ReplyDeleteWhere can I get the 20k pots
ReplyDeleteOh Man, thanks,used 62k to 61k and transistor 2n2222 to pn2484,work,great sound!!!
ReplyDeleteIMHO the NE5532 gave a better tone, thanks for the great work, thanks to you I am addicted to building pedals with effect hahaha !!!
ReplyDeleteThank you Alex!!!
LF347N ok for this?
ReplyDelete