Here's a collection of vero (stripboard) and tagboard guitar and bass effect layouts that we have put together covering many classic and popular effects in growing numbers. Many of these have been posted on freestompboxes.org, so check that site out for great discussions on building your own effect pedals. Enjoy the builds and please also visit us on Facebook and Twitter
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Monday, 2 May 2016
Ross Phaser
This was a request.
The video is for reference only:
The first version of the Ross Phaser was a Phase 90 clone. Later versions were more like Small Stone Clones. More info on the Tonepad and Home-Wrecker sites.
Hey Miro! I'll be glad to but how would you get rid of the switching system? Input at C13 (220n) and output at C11 (220n)? Schematic is here: http://www.freestompboxes.org/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=5426&hilit=fx22&start=20
You'd probably want to keep the input/output buffer for stability. Get rid of Q2-6 and everything at the bottom. Take your output from the same place as the schematic. That way the OTA is isolated from what comes before and after it. I think anyway.
Good job . I assume you used the proper lm13600 ota's. i have two lm13700 i had three and used one for a compressor i sold last year. The only suppliers i use that had them are ebay and aliexpress. it will be about three weeks before i get them. im excited about this one.
Thanks for doing my request again Alex. I like these ota phasers. I used to have a peavey classic with built in phase. it used the ota type phase similar to the small stone i assume. Man i cant wait to do this one . ill start it soon. I have three or four pedals to build for some customers. Man they are coming out of the woodwork. Its how i fund my keepers so its worth it.Thanks again.. I ordered 5 lm13600 just in case you decided to do the daughter board on tonepad. that would be a nice addition.Thanks for fueling the fire ha ha .
Thanks Buddy. I ordered 5 in all so I should have enough. Ill definitely build the daughter board . It will be a few weeks before the chips come in from china. I need to get caught up on some boxing and trouble shooting before then anyway.
Thanks for the layout! I am a newbie, and I have built the modded version with LM13700 and it doesn't work preperly. I can hear my clean signal, but it sounds like the LFO is changing the gain instead of the phase. I don't have any cold solder joints or solder bridges, but I suspect that it happens due to a silly mistake I don't know yet.
These are the measurements of the chips: TL072: 1: 2.95 | 8: 9.35 2: 2.95 | 7: 3.7 3: 2 | 6: ~3 - 3.22 4: 0 | 5: 2.95
Found it: I somehow managed to forget to solder one end of one of the jumpers. I can confirm that this circuit works with lm13700. And the rate pot should be flipped, it is reversed.
Built, tested and verified with LM13700. Seems very quiet (noise-wise) and subtle compared to the Mutron Phaser 2, works best with a high input level and some adjustment like any ota-based layout. Good enough to box, this one. Thanks for the layout Alex and keep them coming!
I am working on the modded version of this pedal. Couple questions on this one. Can I use 1n4148's instead of 1n914's? I was all out of 914's so I tried the 4148's. So far all I am getting is clean, uneffected signal. I can hear a bit of a mid-range bump when I switch the vib/phase switch. Other than that the controls don't do anything to effect the tone.
I tried with both 13600 and 13700. Both sounded the same, no effect. I checked for solder bridges and knifed all the gaps like crazy.
I am going to reflow all the solder joints and can take voltage readings later today, just thought I would double check if using the 4148's would cause an issue.
Mate I have just built the modded version and I get similar results to you although I used 1n914's and tried with both LM13600's and LM13700's; same result. I added the extra stages which required 2 more cuts to the main board and splitting a jumper into 2 and then wiring the extra stages board and I got next to absolutely nothing. Quadruple checked EVERYTHING and re-flowed all solder, no difference. I took the extra stages off and reverted back to the modded version and yeah the most subtle phase/vibrato effect, back to the drawing board with this one...
Ah, fixed it. Even if you checked the layout 100 times, check it again. So I had a 100k resistor where a 10k was supposed to be, works perfectly now. Everything as per layout, it works with either LM13600 of LM13700, I thought the LM13700 had a slightly stronger effect but I could have been hearing things. I built the modded version first but it didn't really appeal to me, the intensity mod won't be useful for me and I couldn't understand the phase/vibe switch being connected to the intensity switch. I actually wired this switch as per Mark Hammer's advice "As per usual, vibrato would be achieved by lifting one end of the 27k resistor between pins 1 and 6 of IC1" and it works fine. Added a 10k log to adjust the width as per more of Mark Hammer's advice which works really well to narrow the width and added a 10uf electro between GND and the LFO, again Mark Hammer, thanks mate. Last but not least I built and wired in the extra stages making it an 8 stage phaser. It sounded great with out the extra 4, but the 8 stages does sound impressive. Probably more than what I need but they are in there now and it's not worth removing the board now, the effect can be tamed nicely with the depth and width control. Fit the whole lot in a 125B with room for a battery with not 0.5 of a millimetre to spare, seriously just squeezed the main board in solder side up right at the bottom where the box is widest. Reverse the RATE Sounds damn good, this is the phaser I have been looking for. Alex, thank you my friend for your time and genius. Just a note though, when I added the extra stages as per your layout it didn't work initially, so looking at Tonepad schematic everything checked out except R, I couldn't see a reference for that on Tonepad schematic nor could I relate it to yours so I removed that link and the unit then functioned perfectly! Have I made a mistake, I don't know but it works like a charm, thanks!
Built the modded version of this and I really like it. Couple of notes-the rate pot is reversed, and the lugs shouldn't be linked. Also, if you build the modded version, the toggle doesn't seem necessary. It sounds like it just switches the intensity pot to zero, kind of redundant with the intensity control. Also, I just used 47n for the 50n and it's fine.
Anyone know how to get the rate of (what I assume is) the LFO to go a bit faster? With the rate at max, my build isn't "swishing" as fast as the demos of the originals. Making it go super fast might make some interesting sounds.
Lowering the 4.7k resistor in the top right corner does the trick. I used a 10k trim pot to find the max speed of my liking and then measured it. I ended up subbing the 4.7k for a 3.6k.
If I get have the voltages on pins 5 through 8 on the 072, correct voltages on all the pins on the top right lm13700 and half voltages on the 2 others - where should I start checking?
built the 'original' version. sounds fantastic. better and more useful than my phase 90 vero build.
referring to schematic: http://home-wrecker.com/ross_phaser_black.png
it appears there is a superfluous (additional + unnecessary) 10K resistor in the layout. not sure if any other builders have noticed.
to be clear - in this layout there are x2 10K resistors that are going from 'vref / +4.5V bias' point to ground. there only needs to be x1.
i left out the 10K that sits to the right of the bottom-left IC, and immediately to the left of a 1K8 resistor.
the other 10K that is already part of the voltage divider (to form the +4.5V/vref), is the 10K resistor positioned furthest to the top-left.
if both of these 10K resistors are left in, this results in a lower vref - as can be seen in the voltage charts posted by @moyiz eg. TL072 pin 5 (2.95V - should be ~4.5V)
leaving out the unnecessary 10K will result in a correct vref/+4.5V
also, the rate pot is still reversed in the layout. (just need to swap lug 1 with lug 3).
evidence of operational build: https://soundcloud.com/alexshriffs/ross-phaser-vero-demo
Thanks for the layout! When I finally found and corrected my misstakes it works great. I find the C500K rate only works like the last 10%, can't find any one else mentioning that tho, am I the only one?
Woah you're on a roll!! I thought this was a Phase 90 clone. I'll be building this one for sure
ReplyDeleteThe first version of the Ross Phaser was a Phase 90 clone. Later versions were more like Small Stone Clones. More info on the Tonepad and Home-Wrecker sites.
DeleteThanks Alex! You're the veromaster!!
ReplyDeleteHi! I didnt see Int 1&2(sorry newbie ;))? Is it ok to use LM13700? Thank you in advance!
ReplyDeleteInt 1&2 goes to Sw 2 (it is written in the layout notes). LM13700 should be ok.
DeleteThank you Alex!
DeleteCool. First OTA phaser in the library!
ReplyDeleteSince you seem to be friends with LM13X00, when will we see a compact layout for for DOD FX22? :)
+m
Hey Miro!
ReplyDeleteI'll be glad to but how would you get rid of the switching system?
Input at C13 (220n) and output at C11 (220n)?
Schematic is here:
http://www.freestompboxes.org/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=5426&hilit=fx22&start=20
You'd probably want to keep the input/output buffer for stability. Get rid of Q2-6 and everything at the bottom. Take your output from the same place as the schematic. That way the OTA is isolated from what comes before and after it. I think anyway.
DeleteThanks Ciaran.
DeleteI've added a schematic in the forum chat.
Is that what you've meant?
Threw my 2 cents in there. Can't wait :)
Delete+m
Thanks a lot!!!
ReplyDeleteThe layout is confirmed. I built it and it is great.
ReplyDeleteThanks, mate!
DeleteGood job . I assume you used the proper lm13600 ota's. i have two lm13700 i had three and used one for a compressor i sold last year. The only suppliers i use that had them are ebay and aliexpress. it will be about three weeks before i get them. im excited about this one.
ReplyDeleteThanks for doing my request again Alex. I like these ota phasers. I used to have a peavey classic with built in phase. it used the ota type phase similar to the small stone i assume. Man i cant wait to do this one . ill start it soon. I have three or four pedals to build for some customers. Man they are coming out of the woodwork. Its how i fund my keepers so its worth it.Thanks again.. I ordered 5 lm13600 just in case you decided to do the daughter board on tonepad. that would be a nice addition.Thanks for fueling the fire ha ha .
ReplyDeleteYou are welcome.
DeleteI'll add the "quite large" Extra Phase Stages board in the Forum Contribution section.
Thanks Buddy. I ordered 5 in all so I should have enough. Ill definitely build the daughter board . It will be a few weeks before the chips come in from china. I need to get caught up on some boxing and trouble shooting before then anyway.
DeleteHello Everyone,
ReplyDeleteHas anyone built this using LM13700's? Thanks Heaps!
Thanks for the layout!
ReplyDeleteI am a newbie, and I have built the modded version with LM13700 and it doesn't work preperly. I can hear my clean signal, but it sounds like the LFO is changing the gain instead of the phase.
I don't have any cold solder joints or solder bridges, but I suspect that it happens due to a silly mistake I don't know yet.
These are the measurements of the chips:
TL072:
1: 2.95 | 8: 9.35
2: 2.95 | 7: 3.7
3: 2 | 6: ~3 - 3.22
4: 0 | 5: 2.95
Top Right LM13700:
1: 1.18 | 16 : 1.1
2: 0.1 | 15: ~0.15 - 0.16
3: ~2.1 - 2.95 | 14: ~2.1 - 2.95
4: ~1.6 - 2.95 | 13: ~1.6 - 2
5: ~2.1 - 2.95 | 12: ~2.71 - 3.05
6: 0 | 11: 9.36
7: ~2.07 - 3 | 10: ~2.75 - 3.01
8: ~2.07 - 3 | 9: ~1.65 - 2
Top Left LM13700:
1: ~1.11 - 1.14 | 16: ~1.11 - 1.14
2: ~0.08 - 0.12 | 15: ~0.23 - 0.24
3: 2.95 | 14: 3.08
4: 2.95 | 13: 3.53
5: ~4.32 - 4.5 | 12: ~1 - 1.24
6: 0 | 11: 9.36
7: ~4.32 - 4.5 | 10: ~1 - 1.24
8: 2.95 | 9: ~1.42 - 1.63
Bottom Left LM13700:
1: ~1.11 - 1.14 | 16: ~1.11 - 1.14
2: 0.15 | 15: ~0.11 - 0.12
3: 2.94 | 14: 2.97
4: 3.8 | 13: 2.97
5: ~4.78 - 5.2 | 12: ~0.68 - 0.8
6: 0 | 11: 9.36
7: ~4.77 - 5.2 | 10: ~0.68 - 0.8
8: ~4.66 - 4.7 | 9: ~1.26 - 1.3
(Tested with DMM, black lead to circuit ground)
Is something looking not normal?
Thanks!
(Sorry for spamming, I wasn't sure how to edit a comment)
Found it: I somehow managed to forget to solder one end of one of the jumpers. I can confirm that this circuit works with lm13700.
DeleteAnd the rate pot should be flipped, it is reversed.
This circuit uses the LM13600, not the LM13700. Try it with the right ICs
ReplyDelete13600 and 13700 are interchangeable. That won't cause any issues.
DeleteI'd suggest triple checking all component locations and knifing the strip gaps. A tiny solder joint short would be my first bet.
+m
Built, tested and verified with LM13700.
ReplyDeleteSeems very quiet (noise-wise) and subtle compared to the Mutron Phaser 2, works best with a high input level and some adjustment like any ota-based layout.
Good enough to box, this one. Thanks for the layout Alex and keep them coming!
building this next, I can't find 50n caps from my usual place, Will there be much difference if i use a 47n instead?
ReplyDeleteI am working on the modded version of this pedal. Couple questions on this one. Can I use 1n4148's instead of 1n914's? I was all out of 914's so I tried the 4148's. So far all I am getting is clean, uneffected signal. I can hear a bit of a mid-range bump when I switch the vib/phase switch. Other than that the controls don't do anything to effect the tone.
ReplyDeleteI tried with both 13600 and 13700. Both sounded the same, no effect. I checked for solder bridges and knifed all the gaps like crazy.
I am going to reflow all the solder joints and can take voltage readings later today, just thought I would double check if using the 4148's would cause an issue.
Thanks!
Mate I have just built the modded version and I get similar results to you although I used 1n914's and tried with both LM13600's and LM13700's; same result. I added the extra stages which required 2 more cuts to the main board and splitting a jumper into 2 and then wiring the extra stages board and I got next to absolutely nothing. Quadruple checked EVERYTHING and re-flowed all solder, no difference. I took the extra stages off and reverted back to the modded version and yeah the most subtle phase/vibrato effect, back to the drawing board with this one...
DeleteAh, fixed it. Even if you checked the layout 100 times, check it again. So I had a 100k resistor where a 10k was supposed to be, works perfectly now. Everything as per layout, it works with either LM13600 of LM13700, I thought the LM13700 had a slightly stronger effect but I could have been hearing things. I built the modded version first but it didn't really appeal to me, the intensity mod won't be useful for me and I couldn't understand the phase/vibe switch being connected to the intensity switch. I actually wired this switch as per Mark Hammer's advice "As per usual, vibrato would be achieved by lifting one end of the 27k resistor between pins 1 and 6 of IC1" and it works fine. Added a 10k log to adjust the width as per more of Mark Hammer's advice which works really well to narrow the width and added a 10uf electro between GND and the LFO, again Mark Hammer, thanks mate. Last but not least I built and wired in the extra stages making it an 8 stage phaser. It sounded great with out the extra 4, but the 8 stages does sound impressive. Probably more than what I need but they are in there now and it's not worth removing the board now, the effect can be tamed nicely with the depth and width control. Fit the whole lot in a 125B with room for a battery with not 0.5 of a millimetre to spare, seriously just squeezed the main board in solder side up right at the bottom where the box is widest. Reverse the RATE Sounds damn good, this is the phaser I have been looking for. Alex, thank you my friend for your time and genius. Just a note though, when I added the extra stages as per your layout it didn't work initially, so looking at Tonepad schematic everything checked out except R, I couldn't see a reference for that on Tonepad schematic nor could I relate it to yours so I removed that link and the unit then functioned perfectly! Have I made a mistake, I don't know but it works like a charm, thanks!
ReplyDeleteAh I was trying to say above, reverse the RATE pinout as suggested by others so that it works as you would expect it too.
ReplyDeleteI didn't have any 50N caps So I wired a 47N and 3.3N in parallel to get close. The sound of 8 stages started to remind me of the ADA Flanger I built.
ReplyDeleteBuilt the modded version of this and I really like it. Couple of notes-the rate pot is reversed, and the lugs shouldn't be linked. Also, if you build the modded version, the toggle doesn't seem necessary. It sounds like it just switches the intensity pot to zero, kind of redundant with the intensity control. Also, I just used 47n for the 50n and it's fine.
ReplyDeleteLugs need to be linked on the rate pot to get it to work. I tried both ways.
DeleteAnyone know how to get the rate of (what I assume is) the LFO to go a bit faster? With the rate at max, my build isn't "swishing" as fast as the demos of the originals. Making it go super fast might make some interesting sounds.
ReplyDeleteLowering the 4.7k resistor in the top right corner does the trick. I used a 10k trim pot to find the max speed of my liking and then measured it. I ended up subbing the 4.7k for a 3.6k.
DeleteWhich mods exactly have been implemented in this layout?
ReplyDeleteBuilt this one for sure! More power! Regards fr Philippines! Jun.
ReplyDeleteIf I get have the voltages on pins 5 through 8 on the 072, correct voltages on all the pins on the top right lm13700 and half voltages on the 2 others - where should I start checking?
ReplyDeletedoes anyone have a schematic for the modded version ? thanks
ReplyDeletebuilt the 'original' version. sounds fantastic. better and more useful than my phase 90 vero build.
ReplyDeletereferring to schematic:
http://home-wrecker.com/ross_phaser_black.png
it appears there is a superfluous (additional + unnecessary) 10K resistor in the layout.
not sure if any other builders have noticed.
to be clear - in this layout there are x2 10K resistors that are going from 'vref / +4.5V bias' point to ground. there only needs to be x1.
i left out the 10K that sits to the right of the bottom-left IC, and immediately to the left of a 1K8 resistor.
the other 10K that is already part of the voltage divider (to form the +4.5V/vref), is the 10K resistor positioned furthest to the top-left.
if both of these 10K resistors are left in, this results in a lower vref - as can be seen in the voltage charts posted by @moyiz
eg. TL072 pin 5 (2.95V - should be ~4.5V)
leaving out the unnecessary 10K will result in a correct vref/+4.5V
also, the rate pot is still reversed in the layout. (just need to swap lug 1 with lug 3).
evidence of operational build:
https://soundcloud.com/alexshriffs/ross-phaser-vero-demo
That green/white circle in the 8th row 23d column, what does it mean? Is it a link? How should I wire this? Thanks!
ReplyDeleteIt’s a double link soldered in the same hole. One link going up, one going down
DeleteThank you very much! I couldn't find info anywhere about this! :)
DeleteThanks for the layout! When I finally found and corrected my misstakes it works great. I find the C500K rate only works like the last 10%, can't find any one else mentioning that tho, am I the only one?
ReplyDelete