The Acapulco Gold is a dirt-simple power amp distortion device that's based on the vibe of a cranked Sunn Model T.
You know what is awesome?
Simplicity. One button, one knob. How loud would you like it?
Just move the knob.
This is the spirit of rock and roll. Quit turning knobs and play that guitar like you mean it.
While playing, you may want to try ignoring our suggestion and try fiddlin' with your guitar's volume and tone knobs as these can drastically affect the sound of the Acapulco Gold.
The volume knob on your guitar cleans up the pedal nicely, but not too clean.
At minimum guitar volume settings, the Gold imparts a hazy, Nashville-sounding spank to your tone. At just-barely-backed-off, the Gold turns into a raunchy overdrive.
And of course when the guitar volume is completely open, the Gold roars like a Model T on the verge of explosion. It's not quite fuzz, but so close.
This is a very loud pedal.
As Nocentelli pointed out on the original FSB thread here, there are 2 types of videos:
a carefully produced one from PGS (where it's probably used to massively drive a nice tube amp)
and a more realistic one where the volume knob is set much lower
Verified ! just have some noise when the pot is fully clockwise but nice distortion ! Thanks !
ReplyDeletehi there.
DeleteThe 10uf input E-cap is well oriented???
Yes i have same problem, high hum n noise
DeleteCool! That was quick! Thanks to both you and Squirrels (from the Forum) for verifying the layout. Does it sound like the videos?
ReplyDeleteDon't get me wrong, the monsterous layouts are great but its nice to have a simple, low parts count build every once in a while! ;)
ReplyDeleteI agree (although me and Savvas love to draw gigantic layouts).
DeleteUnfortunately there are not many good ones left around.
Reminds me of the good old days when I was just starting out. Building a new vero almost daily just to try things out. Haha.
DeleteI used my tele and the sound is very close to Andy's demo. Very loud it is.
ReplyDeleteI do think it sounds close actually. A lot of gain and a lot of low end. I added a B500k pre gain pot in front of it and it's way more useable and versatile... I'm not sure if a different value would have different results but I needed a 9mm pot and it's all I had right now. Thanks again Alex. This is Squirrels by the way.
ReplyDeleteThanks for the testing and the suggestion Jim! :)
DeleteHow you wired it? I put 1M pot and it doesnt work as much as I was thinking it should...I soldered jack to pin 3 on pot and pin 1 and 2 to input on layout...
DeleteYour wiring is correct, technically, but if it doesn't effective in this circuit you can try:
Delete- input jack to the lug 3
- input of the layout to the lug 2,
- lug 1 to the ground or to a small resistor and then the ground ,for a low gain setting. The resistro could be 47k or smaller, you nedd to try the value you like.
You can find the resistor value you like soldering just the pot and set it at the lowest gain setting you like, then measure the value on your pot and use the resistor closer to that value.
This wiring will give you more or less the same effect you get with the volume of your guitar, usually the LM386 has a good respond doing this.
I have noise when the pot is fully clockwise. (I'm not very experienced)
ReplyDeleteIs the B100K could be a better choice ? Thanks
I just tested mine and all worked well. I'm not a big fan of it "as is". I think the pre gain pot is a good idea. It's much more usable with my guitar vol rolled back. I, however don't like having to adjust my guitar to suit a pedal. The extra pot would elementary that.
ReplyDeleteI think it sounds a lot like my Fuzz Bud which I prefer.
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DeleteIf the pre pot is supposed to replace the guitar pot, (a strat one in my case), I guess that a 250k log pot should do, right?
DeleteCheers, Gilberto.
I used a B500k because that's all I had that would fit in the 1590a enclosure I'm using. I still need to paint the enclosure so when I take it apart to finish it, I may try out a few other pots to see if I get better results with maybe a 100k and maybe in a log. taper. I'll order a correct 9mm pot if I like something better. The 500k works fine, try out whatever you have and let us know.
DeleteTo wire it, take the input wire to lug 3, lug 2 to the board input and lug 1 to ground.
Thanks, I'll try it.
DeleteDoes this pedal have that noise decay like some of the other 386 chip pedals?
ReplyDeleteI have a dozen LM386-4's laying around and I think 6 JRC386's as well. Nice simple layout here so I will have to try this one out. I am going to replace those 1uF caps with some panasonic metal film caps - I scored a bunch of the 50v panasonic metal films from ebay since they are obsolete now...
Thanks!
I plugged it in directly to my speaker cab (PPC112 w/ V30) and thought it sounded pretty cool for late night practicing, it was easier to control the volume with the pre pot, even with the pre turned up all the way, the master volume just shut it off. I'd imagine a smaller speaker may work better with it. Just thought I would add that to the discussion.
ReplyDeleteWhat type of resistor is that that is marked CLR?
ReplyDeletethat's the resistor for the LED, CLR = Current Limiting Resistor, so you can use whatever you normally use for your LED's. some layouts have them on the board, others as you know already do not.
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteHere's mine all boxed up. I labeled the pregain as input.
ReplyDeletehttp://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj316/elessar820/IMG_0625_zps5u8wsk3k.jpg
I like the art work! Good job, What kind of a clear coat are you using Jim?
DeleteI have had a hard time finding something that does not flake off over time, I am thinking about getting into evirotex some day a shot.
Thanks. I use Rustoleum Crystal Clear Enamel. It'll chip if something bangs into it hard enough, but it works well enough for me. I use acrylics for the artwork.
ReplyDeleteMine came out noisy as hell, when i am not playing. Need to fix that. Isn't it like a stripped down tufnel from beavis?
ReplyDeleteMine is the same. Complete silence like it's gated for about half a second when I mute the strings, then suddenly really noisey. It works great though generally. I love it
DeleteSame with mine. Did you find out how to minimize the noise? Sound is fantastic, sustain is really nice and with a quick step on the switch the noise is not that much of a problem. But making it a little less noisy would be nice anyway.
DeleteHello,
ReplyDeleteI have try the 50k, du100k, the 250k and 500k in prégain, and I have the impression that the sound is a little less well .......... we will say more rough.
It is not obvious but it seems that the sound is less accurate.
I like not touching the volume of the guitar playing (because the next song I 'forget and it's not great :).
But this difference of his bothers me is that you have it see too?
For information, I have used 2 LM386N-1 and it works very well.
You mean "less accurate" compared to what you get when using the guitar volume knob as a pregain pot or compared to when the pre gain is fully open? Listening to the first video, cleaning with the guitar knob sounds very similar to what you've just described.
DeleteBy the way, I was wondering how good this pedal eats big muff variants...
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ReplyDeleteI'm using mine with an LSTR... Sounds bad ass.
ReplyDeleteThe output level is very High home, I think adding a minimum of 200k resistance output with a DPDT as I also keep the original sound.
ReplyDeleteOtherwise it will be unmanageable in the pedalboard because of the volume too High.
Regarding prégain not think I put ............
What about a bigger volume pot? (lets say 500k). Would it change the tone in a different way than adding a 400k series resistor?
DeleteCheers Gilberto.
Yes it is a good idea and after several tries I will opt for a potentiometer 1M Lin
ReplyDeleteI think the higher the impedance of a volume pot, the lesser the highs lost, (at least that s what happens with guitar volume pots...). Have you noticed any increase of highs/shrillness with the 1m pot?
DeleteCheers, Gilberto.
The potentiometer 1M works differently from the guitar volume and yes the sound is less shrill and less sheared especially high volume.
Deleteit will integrate more easily into a pedal pedalboard because for me the output volume is too high.
Add to my use of a potentiometer prégain is useless against by adding a volume of 1M is essential.
Since this can drive a speaker, could it be possibly refined more to be a badass alternative to the Noisy Cricket?
ReplyDelete+1
DeleteYep! I was monkeying around with mine, and didn't really get enough usable volume when plugged directly into my 112 cab (8 ohm Swamp Thang). I slapped another 386 on the end of it (basically just duplicated the second 386 stage in the original schematic), and it's great. I've actually yanked the board out of my old Cricket build and replaced it with this.
DeleteBig, throaty solid state tone not unlike a Beta Lead, with enough low end and volume to make it really satisfying to play at home. So yeah, it is basically a more badass alternative to the Noisy Cricket.
When you say "...duplicated the second 386 stage...", you mean 68k resistor, 4n7 cap, 386 and 1uf cap, right?
DeleteMy cab is a 2x12 working at 16ohms.
I just built this with the gain pot,i also added a mod to the input of the second op amp.Instead of using the 68k resistor i wired in a 100k pot,then out of the pot into a DPDT on/on switch and wired it to ground +input while sending signal to the -input and visa versa depending on wich way i throw the switch.so it now has inverted and non inverted signal on the last op amp.This makes alot more different sounds and tones along with changing the 100k pot to get more treble and it sounds like there some crossover distortion in there too.I love this circuit like this.I hope this will help someone else out if they decide to try it.I'm glad i did thanks guys
ReplyDeleteI want to try this but I don´t get it. The signal goes to +input after the 68k resistor and to ground through 4n7 cap. -input is on the same ground row, and here is where my understanding get stuck when talking about connecting anything there...
DeleteCould you please elaborate a little more about the dpdt switch configuration?
Thanks in advance, Gilberto.
Could you please
I took the 4n7 off the board and wired it befor the 68k on an SPDT switch to ground.this gives the option of another cap on other side of this switch.The DPDT switch is between the 68k and the + and - inputs on the LM386.I solder an X (2 wires) across the four outside poles of the switch then connect the +input to one of the middle poles and -input to the other.come out of the 68k into one of the outside poles that make up the X,then ground the pole next to the 68k wire.I'm sorry i don't know how to post a pic on the main page.If you google search reverse polarity diagram for DPDT switch the picture will explain alot better.This switch is DPDT on/on only.I hope this helps cause this really gives alot more tone variety IMO.
ReplyDeleteSo is there one or two switches, sorry I am a little lost in this one!
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteLooking at the pedal layout, I can see that -input lays on the ground row, (so it always remains grounded). I was wondering where did you take the -input from without getting sucked by the ground point.
DeleteCheers, Gilberto.
I'm sorry i forgot to mention i leave the ground link off the vero board.the link between the JRC386 and 4n7.sorry for the confusion my bad
DeleteThat makes sense now, thanks.
DeleteIve drawn a switch diagram that hopefully will work:
http://i1380.photobucket.com/albums/ah171/Thrashtop/2015-12-14%2003.15.58_zpslws7say0.jpg
I replaced the 68k with a 100k log pot.lug 1 connects to line 6 on the board where the 68k and 1U connect.Lugs 2&3 connect to the polarity switch.4n7 connects to lugs 2&3 other end of 4n7 is grounded.I can adjust the 100k pot to get the circuit brighter.I'll try to post a diagram in the forum section under this circuit name.
ReplyDeleteThat would be great.
DeleteThanks for your help!
I guess my diagram above just needs to erase that redundant 68k resistor. If we assume that the pot output, (lugs 2/3), just needs to get into one of the 386 inputs, (while the other one goes to ground), and at he same time to ground throught the 4n7 cap, I think I got it.
DeleteI´ve finally built this on a 1590a enclosure. It roars in a smooth way, it sounds great. I found the gain pot kind of useless; in my experience, the sound becomes dull and muddy in a bad way with my strat and the same happens when doing it from my guitar volume knob. Otherwise, I was wondering why the hell they didn´t include the tone knob as a stock feature, since it really makes this pedal much more all around amp friendly. You can get more highs yes, but also you can make it darker without getting mud, I love it. I didn´t wired the polarity switch, but maybe I´ll do. Does the inverted signal really makes a difference compared with the original?
DeleteCheers, Gilberto.
Where is Volume 2?
ReplyDeleteVolume 2 is the Output.
DeleteIt's written in the notes.
Center volume pot lug.
ReplyDeleteDidn't have a knob big enough for mine so here's the Big Wood distortion https://www.instagram.com/p/_1xEl-EqdO/
ReplyDelete"Dance floor knob" yeah jajaja!!!
DeleteWhat a tiny beast!! Massive fuzz-like drive with tones of low-end - thats a real spirit of cranked Sunn Model T!
ReplyDeleteI use it as preamp and its DOOM! Very good output. Uniquely best thing that i build. Minimalism as it is!
Thank you very much for this layout. I just finished testing this circuit, and it is beyond awesome. This pedal turned my 15W kmd testing amp from the 80's into a skull pulverizing doom machine. Incredible.
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteWhat does that green dot underneath the IC mean?
ReplyDeletethat's a double link. so you're going to have 2 jumpers in the same hole.
DeleteHow may I ask do you fit two jumpers in one hole?
Deletewiden the hole with a drill bit just bigger then the hole, so that you widen it, but not make a complete cut.
DeleteAny suggestions as to size? I believe the drill bit I used to drill out the holes was a 1/16"
DeleteWhere does the other end of the LED connect? Thanks!
ReplyDeleteFootswitch Pin 1 (if you use Mark's offboard wiring):
ReplyDeletehttp://tagboardeffects.blogspot.fr/2012/02/offboard-wiring.html
what is the value of CLR resistor on the vero layout?
ReplyDeletewhatever you would normally use if the LED was wired as seen in the offboard wiring, seen here
Deletehttp://tagboardeffects.blogspot.fr/2012/02/offboard-wiring.html
most people use between 1k and 4.7k. the lower the value the brighter the LED.
Can I take the CLR off of this particular board and wire it like in the offboard-wiring diagram? If I do that, does it change anything else in this build?
DeleteYes. Either leave it there and remove the LED+ wire or remove both. It makes no difference to the build. But I'd personally use it as it's shown. It makes your off board LED wiring easier/cleaner.
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteAnyone put 18v to this yet? Simplicity is beauty.
ReplyDeleteThe max voltage for the IC is 12V, but I would stick with 9V
ReplyDeleteMade this up today and damn... Amp crushing beauty. It also sounds great at low volume through my Blackstar HT1R which surprised me.
ReplyDeleteMade this up today and damn... Amp crushing beauty. It also sounds great at low volume through my Blackstar HT1R which surprised me.
ReplyDeleteI'm looking at the data sheet for the IC and it says that changing the 10u cap from legs 1 to 8 will change the gain from anywhere between 20 to 200. I haven't tried it yet, but wouldn't that bring the overall volume down? I know it would also change the sound and the saturation of the gain, but it's worth messing with. Might end up as a nice crunchy boost.
ReplyDeleteI'm looking at the data sheet for the IC and it says that changing the 10u cap from legs 1 to 8 will change the gain from anywhere between 20 to 200. I haven't tried it yet, but wouldn't that bring the overall volume down? I know it would also change the sound and the saturation of the gain, but it's worth messing with. Might end up as a nice crunchy boost.
ReplyDeleteIs the unity volume output for this supposed to be in the first 16th of the volume knob? It seems too crazy loud for practical use, more of a 'leave on all the time' kind of effect...
ReplyDeleteI found on the Guitar World website that unity gain/volume is at around 9 o'clock.
DeleteMade current layout with pregain B1M pot(B500K got am radio haha any thoughts?).. No issues with B1M. Also added a simple tone control (amz swtc )before volume. Also Works well.
ReplyDeleteSame! With the gain knob between 0% and ~60% dialed in, I can hear local Mexican radio stations. This is been pretty cool as an intro to our set. At least I know to turn the gain way up to at least 80% to ensure the radio stops. Funny stuff. I can see why Earthquaker decided to make this a one-knobber.
DeleteHow did you wire in the tone control?
DeleteI get volume 2 to output.
ReplyDeleteBut 'in > gain 3'?
What goes to the 3pdt switch lug 1 that usually goes to output?
I meant '3pdt lug 1 to input'
ReplyDeleteI'll reference Marks switch wiring in the Offboard section...
DeleteYour In jack goes to lug 9, the board in goes from lug 5 to Gain pot lug 3. The switch wiring never changes unless specified. While most layouts have their In connection on the board, this one has its In via the Gain pot. Volume 2 goes to lug 7, Output jack to lug 8, as usual.
thanks ciaran. i use an alternate 3pdt wiring but I see what you mean. the route is- in jack>>>>3pdt in lug to gain 3 lug.
DeleteI love Acapulco Gold!
ReplyDeleteBuilt it yesterday and man, it's loud. So loud that I worry I can actually damage a solid state amp. I found the sound a bit underwhelming (granted I was testing half on protoboard with some noise) but it's way too gainy and by reducing the input volume until it's usable you lose a lot of definition.
ReplyDeleteAbsoulte noob here so go easy on me. Instead of using the gain pot mod, would it make any sense to have a small preamp to control the gain before the signal gets through this? maybe something like the echoplex preamp you have here on the website!
ReplyDeletehey there, could you (or someone) please tell me what the green dot represents?
ReplyDeletethanks mark for all these awesome informative posts!
chuck french
It's a double link, two jumper wires in one hole.
DeleteGetting a lot of hiss when gain pot is up passed 12 o clock no matter what volume, Should I change the chips or the pot?
ReplyDeleteHello.
ReplyDeleteWhere i can find a schematic diagram?
i want build it with on-board 3pdt and pot.
Thank u.
I can't recommend this one enough. Really sounds great and convincingly tube-ish. This is what I kind of wished the BAT Witch Burner had sounded like when I first heard it. Shockingly loud indeed.
ReplyDeleteBuilt this up about a week ago - REALLY like it. The graininess... all of it. But it is ridiculously loud!! I absolutely love how it sounds when I dial the volume back on my guitar to about 50%. Rather than installing a second pot... could I increase the value of that 1M resistor? Would that do the trick of permanently lowering the input signal? I'm still fairly new and I did mess around a bit with sticking resistors here and there (LOL) but yeah.. because of Teh NOOB, none of them worked. Any advice on where and how much resistance to bump up? If it helps, I'm playing a Jazzmaster with 1M pots. Thanks in advance!
ReplyDeleteDo the 1uF cans need to be polarized or can I use some kemet box caps that i have. Looks like it probably doen't matter but want to double check. Thanks
ReplyDeleteAccording to this schematic, which I used, yes you do on the 1 microfarad caps.
DeleteOops
Deletehttp://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4GSq-G3N6HU/VmCyKkB1oNI/AAAAAAAABfg/Jvm0okKGJUY/s1600/EQD%2BAcapulco%2BGold.png
Built it, sounds cool! I would definitely recommend adding the gain pot.
ReplyDeleteTotal noob when it comes to pedal building.
ReplyDeleteI made this today on the fly after a trip to the electronic store to pick up a few things.
Cost me about $10 but the above schematic is totally foreign to me.
I made my mine off another image however I am confused as to the 2 pot connections along with the LED and input/output/switch.
Anyone have a link to what goes where?
Sorry for my ignorance, cheers.
Check the offboard wiring tab at the top of the page
ReplyDeleteAh! Groovy, thanks mate.
DeleteSo I am getting some weird stuff happening.
ReplyDelete1st build ever for me so bound to make some mistakes.
I made the 2 knob version but I only connected volume 1 out of the 2 and when I actuate the pedal my volume drops big time...it becomes quite fuzzy for sure but very quiet.
If I touch the wire to the additional volume pot that is supposed to have a 1M pot on it, the volume bumps up a bit but nothing significant.
I am just not sure where to connect the second volume pot to on the foot switch and if that 100k resistor vs the 68k is playing a part in this?
Cheers for the help!
Also looking at this, his footswitch is wired much differently from how it is shown on the offboard wiring section.
DeletePerhaps that is my issue?
http://johnkvintageguitars.homestead.com/Effects/Fuzz-ODs/AcapulcoGold/AGold-02.jpg
Made a version from this layout with added Big Muff Pi tone control. Check my youtube video of the build!
ReplyDeletehttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sPbZjd42Fl8
Hello!!! Do you have a schematic diagram or a photo that shows the wiring? Thank you
DeleteHi everyone, I'm kind of new into the diy world, just made 4 stomboxes to date, but very happy with them. I'm really interested into this one, but can't figure how to read some components. I can see the uF values of the caps, but can't know if they are 50V, 100V or whatever... how can I learn that? someone can help me? or, maybe, do a detailed list of components? thank you in advance
ReplyDeleteOne of the 10uF caps I used is 10v and the other 160v lol.
DeleteI think you would be safe with 20v or so tops as the original pedal's caps are quite small so they are obviously a lower voltage.
The larger (physical size) the cap, the higher the voltage.
oh great! I will try those values, thank you very much
DeleteNo worries... Good luck mate... It was my first build and it works well!
DeleteNoisy pedal when not playing and strings are not muted.
ReplyDeleteKind of a bummer because this pedal sounds so good when playing.
Perhaps a noise gate would help?
Is it possible that the noise that some people are reporting is from the 1M Gain pot? I'm inclined to say that there is a grounding issue. I'm relatively new at pedal building - how would one test?
ReplyDeleteI'm still trying to sort mine out. The noise gets better if I ground the shaft of the pot to the pedal ground. I'm not sure why that is, but all my grounds are clean on the board. Won't make matter once everything's boxed up but it's still strange.
ReplyDeleteMine is really fizzy and splattery and I'm not sure why. I built two simultaneously and they both sound the same so I know it's not a bad solder joint etc. Almost sounds like a low battery but the battery is at 9.6v. Will try a wall wart next.
Built it yesterday and did a quick (unboxed) test with no switch and led today. Sounds really good. Thick, fuzzy distortion. Not as loud as expected though and indeed on the noisy side. Going to box it on the weekend, maybe that helps the noise a little.
ReplyDeleteBoxed it tonight, used the offboard wiring from this page. Doesn't work anymore :-(
ReplyDeleteThe bypass is coming through, the led lights up when i hit the switch, but there is only humming noise. When i turn down the pot the signal goes humming goes quiet.
Here is a pic of the wired box:
http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x248/StephanCOH/3046800B-34FE-4116-97AF-A123FFDBB640.jpg
I guess it is some grounding issue but I cannot see what is wrong :-(
Hm... check if the tips of the jacks are touching the enclosure when you plug the cables (I once had that problem). The circuit may also be touching the enclosure on the sides or bottom, try using it with the circuit unmounted. Other than that, it looks good to me.
DeleteThanks for the reply. Did a check with the circuit outside the enclosure. Same effect. Cut the LED then and after that I wired the in and out of the circuit straight to the jacks. All the same. Seems like I broke something of the circuit itself while I boxed it.
DeleteGoing to take a closer look tonight.
You're stereo jack, jack on the left, is wired wrong and grounding the circuit when you turn it on. If you're not planning on using a battery just switch it out for a mono jack . I'll bet that when you make the switch it will work again.
DeleteHi Zach, thanks for the hint. It's an old jack I had around, going to put in another mono jack tonight.
Deleteno worries. you just have to remember that when using a stereo jack the point is that it's switching the battery on so that it doesn't drain when you've got your guitar plugged in. the way you've got it, since you don't have a battery snap wired up is that when you're plugged in you're sending the signal to ground.
Deletethe offboard wiring on the site does not include the battery snap, since most of us don't use batteries, unless it's a PNP build.
it happens to us all, so no worries. hope that fixes the build and you're up rocking quickly.
btw, if you want to see how to wire up a stereo jack with a battery check this out:
http://www.co-bw.com/Images_DIY/fig8.gif
Flipped the stereo jack for a mono one, fired up the pedal: same noise as before. Accidentally I put a little pressure on the bottom IC and -boom- beautiful distortion. Hit the bypass, fired of the effect: only humming. Fiddled with the IC - awesome sound. So I took out the IC and one of the legs of the socket came out right with the IC. There is jumper beneath the IC and I got the impression that the legs of the socket do not really connect properly. So I removed the socket and resoldered it. Cannot test it today, but going to do it tomorrow.
DeleteHas anyone an opinion on soldering the IC straight to the board? The legs of the IC seem to be longer than those the socket and poke right through to the solder side.
Gave it a quick try before heading off to work. Looks like the faulty soldered socket was causing the failure. Roaring little box it is. Looks like I used a log pot, so dialing in a sound is a bit tricky. Probably going to replace that sometime.
ReplyDeleteAnyway, thanks for the help. There is a great community on this site.
The input cap is reversed, just sayin'...
ReplyDeletePlease explain. If it was, there would be negative DC voltage at the non-inverting input of the 386. And that just isn't the case.
Delete+m
Where does the LED+ go? I can't find it on the Offboard wiring topic. Does it go to the longer leg of the LED? If so, where does the short leg go?
ReplyDeleteShort leg goes to pin 1 of the footswitch.
Deletewell it works!!! i built the one knob version but it's so loud!!
ReplyDeletei just turn the knob a little and bam!!! massive distortion...
somebody have the schematic of the 2 knob version?
Just add the Gain knob as it shows in the second diagram, works great.
DeleteI have a few questions I can't seem to wrap my head around and this is my first vero build so I am going to ask.
ReplyDelete1. What direction to the IC's go??
2. The off board wiring is a little different. Volume 2 to out?? Does that mean the middle lug on the volume pot goes to the Output lug on the switch, or does it go to the output jack??
3. Same with In to Gain 3. Does the 3rd lug of the gain pot go to the input jack or the input lug on the switch??
4. Why are the directions reversed?? IE. Volume 2 -> OUT and IN -> Gain 3
Thanks for your help!!!
To answer you're questions
Delete1: if you look at the board you'll notice that on the image of the ICs there's a little half moon on it, this matches up to the same thing you'll see on the IC in real life. so in this pedal that part should be facing towards the top of the board.
2: the offboard wiring isn't different then many other pedals. when you see a mention of output it goes to the output lug on the switch. in this pedal the output from the pedal is off lug 2, middle lug, of the volume pot.
3: the same concept as 2, but with input on the board goes to the input of the switch. so lug 3 of the gain pot goes to the input lug of the switch.
4: I don't understand what you mean by they are reversed, rather why you think they are reversed. the gain pot controls the gain of the effect, not the overall volume, while the volume controls the overall volume of the effect not the gain.
I used a100k for both pots. Is there something that works better?
ReplyDeleteLook at the build notes on the layout. Volume 100kA (Log), Gain 1M C (Reverse Log)
DeleteDoes anyone have the schematic for this?
ReplyDeleteThis is mad late, so sorry if you no longer need it. Also forgive my crude handwriting, but here's the schematic I worked out http://imgur.com/a/mbDYY
DeleteI tried working it out from the Vero layout but had zero luck. sounds too different.
ReplyDeleteregarding the blue caps, 1UF 10Uf etc. Are they non polar?
ReplyDeleteAlso, i didnt see anything in the build guide about the small blue dot in the jumper.. Anyone know what that is? I apologize, i am quite new to this.
ReplyDeleteThe blue caps are electrolytic with the -ve side marked with a white line. The blue dot in the jumper is a double link.
DeletePerfect, thanks
ReplyDeleteHi guys.
ReplyDeleteSo i have built 3 now and im getting the same result. Insanely loud and buzzy, a bit quieter when i removed the gain mod and went with the single knob schematic. Its not clear and distorted just very very fuzzy and messy sounding.
I made this and it sounds great but it is oscillating really badly even when it is turned right down. Could anyone help?
ReplyDeleteWhat's the value of the current limiting resistor?
ReplyDeleteHi, I am from Argentina and here not be aware of the Jrc386d, what other IC can I use as a replacement?
ReplyDeleteSaludos!!!!!
Ariel.
None of us rely solely on local sellers, you will need to order the part online. The 386 is not a typical op amp, I'm not aware of a substitute that would drop in
ReplyDeleteAye, cheapos sadly isnt the way to go i have found with this circuit. You do need the jrc386
ReplyDeleteLike some others said, mine is really buzzy and it squeals as i turn the volume up. Havent try to box it yet, it just lies on my table. Does this pedal (as it is so loud) have some special requirements for grounding? I have grounded everything to output sleeve. Also, I used lm386n1. Because this is a simple pedal i soldered it before doing breadboard but i guess i will try it with same parts to exclude soldering mistake
ReplyDelete"half" boxed it (wires not soldered and pcb out of the box) and it is definitely better :)
DeleteDid you get it sorted?
Delete(also see my post below)
I used this offboard wiring -http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-W-Qb4sAO4Tk/ViUQQsZEsOI/AAAAAAAAGaI/NsdlAc49bls/s1600/Off%2BBoard%2BWiring.png
DeleteAll grounds are connected through output jack sleeve, input jack is grounded through enclosure (like in the picture).
Sounds OK like this.
Also, when i tried battery, it was really silent so a lot of noise comes from electricity source in my place.
I built the version with added gain pot. when gain is past 10 o' clock I get a constant hiss in the background. Is that expected?
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteHi, I found this layout and gave it to a friend who built the pedal but it doesn't work almost at all. I don't understand nothing about circuits so i can't tell what is the problem, so is there anyone who can help me if I send him pictures?
ReplyDeleteHas anyone found a solution for the squealing?
ReplyDeleteI am using two LM 356N-1 which by someone elsewhere was supposed to be a better alternative than the JRC 386D if you have squeal. I have ordered JRCs aswell so I will test them when I get them.
The squeal appears at different levels depending on guitar and or amp it seems.
I have checked and double checked the circuit and re-soldered all the joints.
How can i add a switch rather than potentiometer for a gain control? Woulldnit be a resistor too? Do i limit the input with a resistor?
ReplyDeleteHo, how Can i mod It to let more low end pass? More suitabe for downtuned bass riffs?
ReplyDeleteNo need. That will pass everything you feed to it. You could of course, up both 1µ caps to 10µ.
Delete+m
I'm very much a novice pedal builder. Is the 4n7 an axial cap? also, would a linear taper or audio taper be more well suited for the volume pot?
ReplyDelete4.7nf is a simple polyester cap, best suit for vol pot is audio taper.
DeleteThanks! Any input on what replacing the diode with an LED or something else may do?
DeleteThat's a series polarity protection diode, and thus, replacing it with any other diode will work the same. But the voltage drop will be higher and the circuit will run at lower operating voltage.
Delete+m
Hi,
ReplyDeleteCan I replace 1n4001 with another shottky ?
Any help out there?
ReplyDeleteI have put this together, and everything looks to be cleanly soldered to the board, the IN & OUT wires are put where they should be, but as of now the Bypass works fine when the pedal is off but as soon as i turn it on, the LED lights up but there is no sound of wild distortion, just pure silence. anyone know what could be up?
Ok, I build it, but it's a little bit puzzling...
ReplyDeleteThe fact is I owned an EQD Acapulco Gold v1. Loved it, but the increase of volume with gain made it hard to use. Finally sold it a few monthes ago.
So I build yesterday th "added vol pot" version. Although it produce a nasty fuzzy distortion, the volume is hardly at unity with both pots maxed, so it's totaly different from the devastating output level delivered by the original.
I triple checked evrything, but can't understand...
Any help?
Just finished the two knobs version, fun and simple build, great sounds !
ReplyDeletehttps://imgur.com/a/p4Ybvcq
Thank you for sharing the layout :)
Hi Everyone, I need some help, I built this pedal and it sounds great, but for a weird reason it sounds gated, a lot gated, like a gated fuzz, someone knows what it can be?
ReplyDeleteWhich variant of LM386 did you use? I've gone through N-1, 2 and now 4 and have found LM386N-4 to have the least of that gating or noise off and on thing happening.
DeleteFinished wiring this up but haven’t boxed it yet. I made just the one knob version and at full volume on my guitar even with the one knob on the pedal at 8-9oclock the sound is too trebly. i used two les pauls on this and it really hurts my ears. Any one tried adding a treble cut switch? or what do I need to change here to lessen treble, the 4n7 cap? lower the value? I didn’t want to add the gain pot coz I wanted to the pedal to look simple on a 1590A enclosure.
ReplyDeleteA capacitor between output and ground to tame the treble I think could be help to tame the treble, but I guess it will be interactive with the Volume setting, and maybe you will use a larger cap than usually before hear some treble cut.
DeleteYou should try to insert a resistor after the output cap, I think 1k will be fine. You need enough room on the board to insert this resistor after some movement of the output cap, a jumper and a cut track.
You can put the cap between the lug 3 (signal) and the lug 1 (ground) of the Volume pot.
I say that a 2.2nF until a 10nF will work. It depends how much you want to cut the treble.
Thanks Elijah! I put a cap across lug 1/3 on my EQD Acapulco Gold as it was way too bright with my strat single coils and Musicman RD50. I settled on a .33uf cap and it really made the pedal perfect with my bright rig. So Cheers!!! 🍻
DeleteI've gotta say, the LM386's in these make a huge difference. I have an EQD Acapulco Gold that came with two socketed JRCLM386's. I swapped in two N-4's and its way sputtery like a gated fuzz! Not what I wanted though so I tried one of the N-4's and one N-1 that I had. Sputter/gate gone and it seems to me a little warmer/less harsh. So my point is, it may be worth thrying different variations of this chip as they really sound/react differently from each other!
DeleteSomeone else (in some below comment) told that N-4 was gated, and N-1 solved the problem.
DeleteI really don't know it, but I think the LM386 are sensible to something. On my breadboard every time I tried one it sounded wrong: gated, harsh... Once on stripboard it worked fine.
Well, the guy below said the N-4 solved his gating problem. They were fuzzy and gated in my EQD, but I ended up using one plus an N-1. Basically, these things are a mystery to me so you just gotta try a few different types!
DeleteBuilt it into a 1590A with one knob and I had to put a capacitor between output and ground to tame the treble. Now it sounds huge but I forgot what value I used :-D
ReplyDeleteNonetheless thanks for the layout. Now I have to practice some stoner riffs.
Has anyone tried it at 18v yet? Just curious.....(and am checking mine to make sure all caps are higher than 16v)
ReplyDeletePay attention with the 18v, because the LM386N-4 should be the one can support max 18v.
DeleteI've just upgraded to N-4s in mine which has eliminated the annoying gating effect the N-1s gave me and a few others on the thread. I'm going to leave it the way it is now that that glitch is resolved.
DeleteHi,
ReplyDeleteI take it LM386L isn't compatible with this build?
I built the two knob version LM386L tonight. Of the 4 I had two had awful noise like I'm not used to hearing. The two decent ones are still extremely noisy at higher gain settings, but the circuit appears to function properly otherwise.
DeleteCheers Don, just so this reply! Ended up using LM 386-3's. Went through a few to find the most 'noiseless' pair.
DeleteI found that there are some mistakes on the layout, the D1 to pin 6 of the IC, one side should be to ground,and the 1M resistor to pin 3 of the 386, also one side should be to ground
ReplyDeleteThe layouts are correct. They are really simple and they've been verified long ago. D1 is a protection diode and there's no 1M resistor going to pin 3. There is just one at the input.
DeleteHey guys, this page has been my bible for the last 18 months. made a bunch of stuff. Dwarfcraft noise thing is the greatest schematic ever printed.
ReplyDeleteI need help on this one, its tricking my brain. The CLR, is that just a LED for like 'hey im powered up yo!' or is it a LED thats being used like a diode?
if its just a power on LED I can just leave it out yes? if its a Diode like LED do i need a CLR. I looked at the links that were sent to the similar questions to mine. but i still cant guess it. Im gonna start it tomorrow.
All involved with this website. FUCCCCC ! I cant ever thank you enough. This page helped me get healthy.
I know this is old, but CLR is short for Current Limiting Resistor. The lower the value the brighter the LED will be. Start with 2.2k maybe and tweak from there.
DeleteWeird one.
ReplyDeleteMade one with the pre-gain pot, used a 500k as all I had, worked great, insanely bassy.
Realised I'd used a 4.7uf instead of the 4n7, figured that's making it bassy.
So I made another, had a 1m pot this time, and put the 4.7uf and the 4n7 on a switch. But now, the 4.7 renders the effect clean, the 4n7 causes squeal / oscillation. You can dial down the pots to deal with it but still.
Couldn't find the problem so made another: same problem.
In the end I used a 0.47uf and a 0.047uf on the switch, the 0.047 squeals but not as much, so bunged a resistor after the pre-gain pot to reduce input gain to below squeal levels. Works fine for me, but other guitars and other pickup combinations will undoubtedly squeal it at full throttle. But is awesome anyway.
Still don't understand the problem; would love it to go away. The original 4.7uf build is way bassier than the 0.47uf on the last build, but every build since, a 4.7uf cleans out the effect and a 4n7 squeals to high heaven.
I'd like to try the 4n7 you need the original build but I ain't gonna touch it! Coz it's sweet
Does anyone know what this circuit is based on. Was it the Bravo's Audio Tufnell ?
ReplyDeleteSounds great with no “squealing” with lm386-n1 on top and lm386-n4 on bottom.
ReplyDeleteHeres my take on this pedal. Cheers for the great layouts:
ReplyDeletehttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wFYKqfbIoXQ
I just finished building this one and i can say it s awesome!Verified.
ReplyDeleteTnx. Jun fr Philippines
Hi. I've built the version with the gain pot and I find the pedal to be very noisy. There's quite a lot of static noise if I turn the pots up beyond1/3 as well as a hum I can't get rid of (the kind of hum you get when the end of the guitar cable is not connected to the guitar). I reckon the static is a feature of the pedal but the hum does bother me. It's only there with single coil pickups (which is sort of expectable, but not to that amount). I've checked the ground connections and the grounding of all the parts and the casing. Any idea?
ReplyDeleteRemove the gain potentiometer and the static noise and hum will stop.
DeleteI had trouble with the LM386's; whenever I would palm mute and chug the volume would get real low. Threw in the JRC386D's and that went away :-)
ReplyDelete