I've added a "Multi-Vibe Mod" to it.
You can find all infos on this circuit or buy one of his PCBs here:
http://www.madbeanpedals.com/projects/index.html
09/11/2016 Layout Updated! Changed the charge pump daughter board.
Monday, 26 October 2015
Madbean Harbinger One
This is Madbean's version of the famous Univibe pedal.
I've added a "Multi-Vibe Mod" to it.
You can find all infos on this circuit or buy one of his PCBs here:
http://www.madbeanpedals.com/projects/index.html
09/11/2016 Layout Updated! Changed the charge pump daughter board.
There's also a different but verified layout by Savvas in the Forum section.
I've added a "Multi-Vibe Mod" to it.
You can find all infos on this circuit or buy one of his PCBs here:
http://www.madbeanpedals.com/projects/index.html
09/11/2016 Layout Updated! Changed the charge pump daughter board.
Rock on! Building this on PCB was daunting enough... haha
ReplyDeleteHey Luke, what was daunting about the PCB?
DeleteNothing really just a lot of parts, it took a while to populate. Madbean's PCBs are a breeze.
Deletemy first build was a vox tonebender my second was a red rooster my third was a madbean harbinger one.if you build this spend the extra money and get the most expensive LDRs small bear sells. I bought 8 and matched 4 testing them with a dmm picking the four closest in resistence readings .To do this use alligator clips hold them under a lamp then cover them and count to 3 or four then right down the resitence. the good ones hit 20 meg in about 5 seconds . the quicker they go to high resistence the better .the 7532 are good but the hermetically sealed improve this dramatically.Also i tried mounting the ldrs both flat and raised pointing at the bulb at a 90 degree angle.i prefered the raised and pointing at the bulb. this also makes the light shield less of a factor.Remember when biasing the bulb dimmer is better.you want almost orange or yellow not intense white light. i topped out at just the beggining of white light.
DeleteThanks Alex . i did the forum vibe mod to my savvas layout i did the .01 for all four for the phase 90 option. I noticed that the voodoo vibe has a tremolo setting. is it possible to mod this to be a tremolo as well?
ReplyDeleteHave a look at this link http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=76157.0
DeleteThis adds the tremolo section from the Shin Ei Resly Tone to the Neo-Vibe. I tried it, didn't really sound that great, not much better than the vibrato which isn't good either so I think I'll leave it out. When adding to this Harbinger build just remember some of the component designations are different.
Ah, I've changed my mind, I'm rebuilding my build and adding the tremolo section plus a few mods I've picked up from R.G.'s notes and tested with a Madbeans PCB I had lying around doing nothing which I just finished testing, sounds mint.
DeleteSo I've just finished rebuilding and added the tremolo section, sounds real good, super pleased with it! When I originally spliced it in as I mentioned above I had connected it wrong which is why it sucked. I fixed the error and now it sounds great.
DeleteMate I have added the tremolo mod into Alex's layout, it works great:
Deletehttps://www.dropbox.com/s/v8z73fev9cjgj4w/Harbinger%20One%20%28Modified%29.png?dl=0
Board had to be increased by 1 column and 3 cuts, few components including a 3P3T rotary switch (replaces the DPDT toggle). I have also changed R55 from 22K to 1m otherwise the rate LED doesn't work well and changed R2 from 47K to 4.7M to fix the volume drop and give you a lot more volume over unity, revert to original values if desired. I did not have room to include the charge pump on this document. Enjoy.
Hello, could a Harbinger One built with the Madbean PCB be converted with this mod without a lot of difficulty? I very much like the mod, but am worried that the overall build will be far too complicated for me, so am wondering about getting a Madbean PCB instead. Many thanks.
ReplyDeleteDid someone already have the time to verify this one? That would be so awesome!!!
ReplyDeleteI built it and it works, so it's verified I guess. The only thing that is not working properly is the 18V board. As it is it only gives about 14V. In the schematic of the Harbinger One by Madbean you can see that there are 3 pcs 1N5817. If you follow that configuration it will give you 18V.
ReplyDeleteThanks for verifying it!
DeleteI've updated the daughter board on the layout.
I forgot to mention that I used the upgrade kit for Univibe from Banzai. It contains the lightbulb and four LDR.
ReplyDeleteI've just started on this one, looking forward to firing it up some day soon
ReplyDeletePlease watch the position of the LM7815: the flat metal side must point to the right ( as seen on the vero layout) so the picture as it is maybe a bit confusing. I hope you understand what I mean, and good luck with your build.
DeleteThanks for the headsup!
DeleteI do not think the daughterboard is correct. First of all in the madbean harbinger manual on page 9 it says to leave out D1 (D5 on this vero) when using 9V wall wart! This is also logical as you would (on this vero) connect +9V to D4 on both sides!! D5 could however be connected to pin 8 of the LT1054 (as done in the madbean roadrage) and you can leave out the jumper to the right of D5.
ReplyDeleteAlso, the 100uF from +9V to ground is missing (I know this is not the most important cap). Lastly in the Harbinger one schematic the 100nF is not on the +9V side but on the +18v (and other side to ground). This is not very important as in the roadrage the 100n is on the +9V side.
Also, you could leave out the zener. This only protects the LT1054 for an overvoltage as the LT1054 can "only" handle 16V at input.
More info can also be found in the Roadrage manual by Madbean.
Thanks. Main problem was D5.
DeleteNailed this one straight up! Built this to run on 18v no charge pump. I used Photocell Silonex/Advanced Photonix Hi-Dark TO-5 from Small Bear, I didn't bother matching them as some suggest may be an advantage. Sounds AWESOME! I set gain trimmer at max as much lower and the lamp flash was erratic and inconsistent, max was fine. Set volume and intensity to max and speed fairly low before setting offset. I found that having speed at low-min allowed you to gauge phase depth more accurately. If you set it when it's flashing fast you might find that when you slow it down the phase depth disappears. That's how it worked for me anyway. This one's a winner, thanks for the layout and what a great support this site has!
ReplyDeleteAh I just realised where I got the good advice from regarding LDR's and bulb biasing, thanks strassercaster for your advice above, you were right on the money.
DeleteJust saw your thank you. Thank You sir. Im working on another one im getting some unwanted chirp on my latest build its not really loud but its annoying and not acceptable I was fishing for a fix and saw your reply. Man I love univibes. With the small bear tio of the line ldrs its better than my uv1 and right there with a Mojo vibe.I did the 4 10n mod for phase but it sounds more like tremolo. I really want to figure out how to get this like a phase 90 somehow someday. Keep soldering
DeleteWith my build thankfully I didn't experience any real problems apart from the volume drop and rate led which I later solved (as posted below). Yeah I love univibes too and I plan to build more. In fact, I just pulled out the Madbean's Harbinger 1 PCB I bought last year (which got put away when I found this vero layout, I prefer to build it by hand as much as possible, better learning experience) and I'll build it into a 125BB with the multi-vibe mod if I can scavenge the space for that switch, gift for my youngest son. I wanted to implement the phase 90 as you have done into this one to see if I can get that 'phase 90' phasing with a more fluid-like effect. If I do I'll let you know how it turned out for me. I am going to use some GL5549 LDR's just for comparison, if they are no good I'll have to spring for those small bear ones. I'm going to build EQD The Depths in the next few weeks as well with the GL5549's. This way I will compare the LDR's and work out whether or not it is necessary for me to just use those awesome small bear LDR's everytime and suffer the shipping cost (which is the most expensive part for me). Hope you solve that chirping problem, I can't rest until I a pedal is functioning properly. I just spent a week and a half trying to solve the infamous 'tick' that accompanies the Vox Repeat Percussion based pedals like the EQD Hummingbird and Moosapotamus Skippy which I did, squeaky clean, that Hummingbird is brilliant!
DeleteI just tried 10N Phase 90 mod but IMO it was pretty weak, didn't sound as pretty and dramatic as stock does, and sounded thin compared to my phase 90 clone, less audible signal. Not nice so I reverted back to stock caps.
DeleteI have been messing with my build and comparing it to various videos of the original unit and the reproduction and other clones. The depth and clarity in the one I built is phenomenal, better than any I've found on the net so far, I have the intensity dialled way back otherwise it can be quite intense, which is a good option to have as opposed to not enough. Good combination parts may have helped. If the photocells have anything to do with it take note of strassercaster's post above. This is my most favourite build to date.
ReplyDeleteCan anyone do the tremolo mod on this one? Or at least explain how to incorporate it?
ReplyDeleteMate I have added the tremolo mod into Alex's layout, it works great:
Deletehttps://www.dropbox.com/s/v8z73fev9cjgj4w/Harbinger%20One%20%28Modified%29.png?dl=0
Board had to be increased by 1 column and 3 cuts, few components including a 3P3T rotary switch (replaces the DPDT toggle). I have also changed R55 from 22K to 1m otherwise the rate LED doesn't work well and changed R2 from 47K to 4.7M to fix the volume drop and give you a lot more volume over unity, revert to original values if desired. I did not have room to include the charge pump on this document. Enjoy.
I'm building this one based on your updated layout. Fiew components to adds and I'm done. But I can't figure it out if I have to add the 100K, 47K resistors, .068uF and 1uF caps solder on the switch2 like seen in this layout:
Deletehttp://s100.photobucket.com/user/sonicvi/media/Neovibe_tremolo_mod1.jpg.html
I'm so excited by this build.
Thanks for your advise and sorry for my poor English I still learning :p
I just see that u add those components directly on the board. Brillant.
DeleteHey Alex, I seem to have stumbled upon an update to Madbeans Harbinger One build guide. If anyone else like me has noticed that the rate led would disappear completely somewhere after dialing the speed pot back after say 10 o'clock then this is update for you. To ensure that the rate led functions throughout the entire range of the speed pot (led disappeared as it got slower) then try replacing R55 (in the guide) which previously was a 22k resistor coming out the back of 2N5087 (Q15) to 1M resistor. I have just done this and it works for me! I was trying to figure out how to fix this when I came across the update in Madbeans guide. The update in the guide is dated 01/01/2016 but I can't tell when this fix was released to the general public, my pdf file was obtained much later than that. Now I have the new one. Built this a few months ago and it's working really well including multi-vibe mod. Added power switch to cut power completely when not in use, foot-stomp for chorus/vibrato mode. Thanks Alex for the layout man!
ReplyDeletePictures of my build: http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/Chance_N_Sarah/media/Pedals/Harbinger%20One_zps0mmuxm8z.jpg.html
ReplyDeletehttp://s1383.photobucket.com/user/Chance_N_Sarah/media/Pedals/Harbinger%20One%20-%20Rear_zpsgmq7fmka.jpg.html
http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/Chance_N_Sarah/media/Pedals/Harbinger%20One%20-%20Gutshot_zpsi2ix7my9.jpg.html
If anyone is experiencing a drop in volume when switching the effect on try replacing 2 resistors as per the advice in the NeoVibe project. In this build you would replace R9 which is a 3.3K with a 3.6K. Then also replace R10 which is 1.2K with 910 ohms. I found there was a drop in volume and even if I maxed out the volume it was below unity, now I have unity gain after replacing these resistors. Even modern mode struggled to meet unity gain. Resistor references as per Harbinger One guide, in NeoVibe the 1.2K is R8, the 3.3K is the same R9.
ReplyDeleteHi! Could you post a schematic for the Multi-vibe switch? I'm planning to build a PCB version and would like to incorporate this mod to it. P.S.: what's the 3rd mode, Resley?
ReplyDeleteRefer to this it may help, the mod details are in the back http://basicaudio.net/univibe-ForumVibe-final.pdf
DeleteAnd google SHIN-EI RESLEY TONE
Hi! I built that with the charge pump vero, and couldn't get 18v. I added a jumper between the upper pins of the LT1054, as it seemed normal, from what i know from my previous builds, and now it works. Can't speak too much about the sound, as i'm waiting for more adapted LDRs, but i'm getting 18v, and it's working in a promising way. So i think the second cut from the upper side shouldn't be there. Thanks again for the site!!!
ReplyDeletethat is strange... Only the 7660s needs pins 1 and 8 connected. Are you sure that you did not get "rebranded" 7660S's instead of genuine 1054's?
DeleteThe cut really needs to be there (between pins 1 and 8) in the chargepump when using 1054's.
Maybe you are right, it could be the explanation. Cheap LT1054, so who knows? Thanks, anyway, i will have learned something!
DeleteI had to jump my 1054 pins too. Weird because I bought it from Small Bear. Dunno.
DeleteToday I just finished modding and re-boxing my first effort. The most notable mod is adding the tremolo section as per the Shin Ei Resley Tone which I sourced from here: http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=76157.0 where a chap added it to his Neovibe, I just adapted it to this build and it works like a tremolo should. Added a power switch too, a number of tweaks to improve overall performance. Here are some pics:
ReplyDeletehttps://www.dropbox.com/s/1yw5ycd4pi01efp/Univibe%20Modded%201.JPG?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/pai5cn277nrr7zu/Univibe%20Modded%202.JPG?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/tvbeu2ng0vtwmrb/Univibe%20Modded%20Gutshot%201.JPG?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/jo4oibppn47vl5i/Univibe%20Modded%20Gutshot%202.JPG?dl=0
I want to build but without the mod, because I do not get 4P3T
ReplyDeleteWhat components do I have to remove from the board? please
thankss
you can do the mod voodoo vibe with dpdt switch?
ReplyDeleteNo. If you want the voodoo vibe configuration then use the capacitors connected to the voodoo vibe poles on the 4p3t.
Deletethanks for answering Arnold!
Deletewhat should I do to not have mod voodoo vibe?
only remove the caps of board?
a little more than that I'm afraid. What do you exactly want? Switch between univibe and resley? Or no switch at all and caps set for voodoovibe?
DeleteHi all , I need a little help on the off board wiring . Can I use two stomp switches like the Dual off board wiring but without the use of a second board .
ReplyDeleteYes and depending on what you want to switch. Just use regular offboard wiring for the effect on/off and a second independent footswitch for switch chorus/vibe or for modern/vintage. If you want to use a second footswitch then I suggest to use it for the chous/vibe.
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Deleteyou mean modern/vintage or chorus/vibe? I advise the latter.
DeleteThanks Arnold i will wire up the other way . One more thing where do I run the input wire. Does it go from lug 5 on my main foot switch to switch1-2 on the toggle.
ReplyDeleteYou do not need to connect the main foot switch to switch 1. They need to be independent.
DeleteHi , Need some some help again. My input wire is running from centre lug on stomp switch normal (off board wiring) and going to lug2 on switch 2 is this correct. I have wired Rotary switch as shown on diagram am I missing any caps that need mounting to rotary .
DeleteNo, !all! switches are independent. In out are on a footswitch (see off board wiring) and Sw1 and SW 2 are separate not interconnected switches. Wire as indicated on the vero.
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DeleteMany thanks Arnold I got it !
ReplyDeleteI have added the tremolo mod into Alex's layout, it works great:
ReplyDeletehttps://www.dropbox.com/s/v8z73fev9cjgj4w/Harbinger%20One%20%28Modified%29.png?dl=0
Board had to be increased by 1 column and 3 cuts, few components including a 3P3T rotary switch (replaces the DPDT toggle). I have also changed R55 from 22K to 1m otherwise the rate LED doesn't work well and changed R2 from 47K to 4.7M to fix the volume drop and give you a lot more volume over unity, revert to original values if desired. I did not have room to include the charge pump on this document. Enjoy. Hope this is ok Alex, thanks for doing the hard work on this layout!
Reference for this mod I found here, the writer extracted the tremolo function directly out of the Shin-Ei Resley Tone (near identical circuit to uni-vibe?) and adapted it to his Neo-Vibe build. I just had to adapt to the Harbinger One schematic. I meant to say above that you need to substitute the DPDT (chorus/vibe) toggle for a 2P3T rotary, but you could use a 3P3T rotary like I have to wire up leds to indicate function.
DeleteI forgot to paste the reference above:
Deletehttp://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=76157.0
Really a big thanks chance for your work!
DeleteNo worries, I just contributed the hard work already done by others, if anyone has a go, let me know how it goes. I like the fact that we now have a 2 well-respected vintage effects (at least the tone/functionality and with some slight mods) in one circuit!
DeleteI have ordered all the parts needed for the build so i'll try the aventure soon. It will be a pleasure to share my experience too. I take the lamp and photocells kit from Banzimusic ( im living in France) and not sure it will be well suited for the purpose. Banzai support tech give me thoses specs:
DeleteArtikel VT83N2
RL 12...36
@IL 10
RD5 500
@IL 0
Ptot 175
Tamb -40...+75
What you think about that?
Hmm, not sure what to make of those specs but the kit should work fine if they have recommended it. Refer to the Madbean Harbinger One build guide for a prime reference regarding this build. I used the recommended 12v lamp and for LDR's I used a set from smallbear, I think they were quite expensive, they worked well. I have also made another build using a smaller lamp recommended by smallbear and some dirt cheap GL5549 LDR's and another similar device (Earthquaker Devices The Depths) using the GL5549 LDR's. They all sound good and I get the same effect when I tweak the settings.
DeleteThx for your reply. If my build is working maybe I'll try some LDR form smallbear for comparaison...
DeleteDont u have some sound clip of your great chance's
univibe? :)
Not at this stage but if I do I'll let you know here
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ReplyDeleteHi ,Looking for some help . Every thing is working as it should , Only one problem there seems to be a strange like tweeting sound.
ReplyDeleteI have never come across the tweeting sound and I'm not smart enough yet to help out here, I wonder how that would occur? Maybe check the Madbean forum.
DeleteThanks anyway I will give them a try .
DeleteDid you also try a different LT1054? did you buy it from a reliable source? There are a lot of fake LT1054's out there and they can give a lot of interference and whining.
ReplyDeleteHi Arnold , No I am using a 18v power supply.
DeleteTry adding a 100n between 18V and ground.
DeleteNo still the same .
DeleteFound out it was my 18V adaptor 2000ma was far to high .That's what I think gave it that strange tweeting sound . All is working great now . thanks Stu
DeleteI just finished my build and he worked first run! The sound was very promising :)) but I forgot to put a resistor behind the anode of the rate led so he burnt. Next I put a resistor and something go wrong. My lamp just stop blinking. Apparently the 470uf capability just died... I'm wondering why? The cathode of my rate led is connected to the ground of input jack, cause I doesn't know where to plug his ground. This can be the problem? Or maybe something made a shortcut somewhere...
ReplyDeleteI got it! I traced out the lfo section and test the components involved. Finally it was q12 who died. I replace it with and blink is OK. 470uf seem to work finally but he seems to have inflated a little.
DeleteI'm so happy with this build take a less more then 16hours to complete. Thanks Alex and Chance for your incredible layout!
ReplyDeleteI'm just experimenting some volume drop on tremolo section. Im wonder how to deal with it and how to get much faster blink capability too. Otherwise this effect sound so good!!
ReplyDeleteI never experienced a volume drop. However, with lower resistance LDR (eg vintage ones) you will notice that the tremolo is very faint. You can remedy this by using a higher resistance spec-ed LDR like the Gl-5539 and the rest as 9203's
DeleteGlad it's working, I'd swap that 470uf electro out sooner rather than later though for peace of mind at least. Like Arnold said, try GL5539's or GL5549's (which work well for me in other builds I have) , you do notice a difference with different LDR's. Also make sure if you lay LDR's flat try and cover them with a reflective cap if you can manage or stand them up and angle directly at lamp. If you want more speed there are some resistor changes that will do that, I'll try and find the locations. It is not designed to go all that fast, especially with an incandescant bulb.
DeleteThanks to enlightening my mind :)). I cover my LDR with two sort of cover 1 square angled cut in a piece thin metal box and an other from a perfume cap gold colored. For the moment I don't have experiment enough to tell the difference. I'll try other LDR soon as possible. Mine goes like something to 2m in dark.
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ReplyDeleteIf I change one the resistors to the extremes of the tremolo switch, would that affect the sound level of the effect? This safe to try?
ReplyDeleteYeah I've used some very good LDR's from Smallbear (as mentioned above in earlier comment) and the GL5549's. Both good but you can hear a difference in the sound produced, the way it is processed. The GL5549's gave a very deep throb at the lower end of the sweep which I kind of liked. I'm not sure about the resistor change so if you like have a go and see what happens, that's my philosophy anyway. I don't have a volume drop on mine when tremolo is engaged, I can only assume that at some point you may have made an error in the build in that particular section, hopefully you can solve it!
DeleteIt works! I swap the 100k resistor for a 64k. I change the 1uf at the other side for a polarised one for good mesure because I saw it was the case on the initial mod layout. Vibrato got more volume and killer tone now :))
ReplyDeleteGreat man, thanks for verifying the modified layout. If you can locate the 4.7k resistors that are connected to SPEED 3 and SPEED 6 (next to the voltage regulator) reduce the value to get faster speeds. Mine are currently 2.7K, you'll know when you've gone too far when the LFO stops all the time. Nice work!
ReplyDeleteNo need to thank me it's a real pleasure for me. It was really a big moment for me when I first put the voltage on this box. Led light came on then I adjusted the variables resistances and the light bulb start to blink! Eureka!! He's alive!! Lol was so good and intense. Thanks for this moment. Thx for the speed trick!
DeleteWell here's another trick. See that 2M2 resistor just above the 1N914 diodes coming out of the BASE of a transistor (in fact I think it's the only 2M2 there), increase the value to achieve a slower speed when rate pot is at zero. Just keep in mind that this is proportionate to altering the speed by decreasing the resistance on the 4.7k resistors mentioned above. So if you increase max rate by lowering the 4.7K's then you will decrease the maximum achievable slowest speed. And it goes the other way, if you decrease the maximum speed then you can achieve a much slower speed at when rate is all the way down. You can experiment and see what range best suits you. I replaced the 2 x 4.7k resistors for 2.7K and that 2M2 for 5M6. That suits me and you can only go as fast as the incandescent bulb can respond anyhow, once again the LFO will give up if the range is too wide. The default values are pretty good for most useage. I really like this effect myself, happy new year from Australia!
ReplyDeleteHi, thanks again for this trick !
ReplyDeleteI didin't have time to try it. I wanted to shoot out some sound demo but i wanted to first change the 470u capa which seem to have suffer a bit for a new one, a panasonic NHG 50V and this one dropped a badly smelling brown juice after 5 mins of use! Wow something wrong here... I got to investigate and if u have any idea i would be very pleased.
Hello from the french riviera !
Ooh it was simple. The 470u is shown upside down on your layout.A little mistake ')
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DeleteAh ok, I have corrected the layout and here is the new link: https://www.dropbox.com/s/zddl0amwym51tdj/Harbinger%20One%20%28Modified%29.png?dl=0
ReplyDeleteOld link deleted!
Cool!
ReplyDeleteI took the opportunity to change all the 1uf from electrolyte np muse for film wima. Just curious to ear the différence. It looks like There is less overall gain, less growl and bass. Maybe a bit more hifi like. Less character overall im a bit disappointed. I see you a mix of electro and film. Is it wanted and thought?
The schematic of the original Univibe shows these 1uf polarized electrolytic capacitors, so I would stick with them. I was reading about electrolytics vs film capacitors and each have their advantages, depending on the application - I don't know how siginificant these can be when talking about pedals and low voltages, but I'd use what the schematic shows anyway.
DeleteCheck out Madbean's Harbinger One build guide for more info, I think it contains an explanation regarding the choice of those 1uf film caps.
DeleteAfter a lot of time studying and trying to understand this circuit, I know and understand in the main line the function of each part of the circuit. It has become a bit of an obsession to want to understand more and optimize. After the Banzai LDR + lamp kit, I ordered Photocells Silonex / Advanced Photonix Hi-Dark TO-5 from smallbear and a 7371. It is registered SL-04-17090 1422 on LDR. I took 8 and sorted them.
DeleteVery beautiful these photocells :))! I have noted a greater progressivity of the incandescence of the 7371. As for the multimeter, the LDRs are also more reactive and have a larger resistance range. The rendering is improved but not as significant proportions as I could have hoped. Which leaves me a little pensive ...
By the way, I always fight with the tremolo mode. It has always been a little weak in depth and especially in output volume. I had managed to find a compromise by lowering the value of the 100k resistor in series with the 68nf condo but in the end it was not a panacea either. After changing photocells I tried a return to the values indicated on the Chance diagram. But by doing this I have a saturation oscillation on all the presets. This is where I seek help because I still can not understand the phenomenon. A capacitance story or something? But I do not understand much yet. Do you have prospects?
Does your tremolo mode work perfectly? With a signal level similar to chorus and vibrato modes?
Yes mine works fine and I have updated the layout as per below. When I built mine I didn't use the layout I modified, I just wired everything in to see if it would work first.
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ReplyDeleteBye the way, i changed all the phase capacitors to 10uf (c8,c9,c11,C12,C13,C15,c16 on the harbinger schem) like suggest in the RG report.
DeleteI finally found the problem with the tremolo. Apparently it misses a cut between the resistance 100K and the 4.7k on the connection SW2-A3 on your scheme Chance. I realized this by looking at D Means' Neovibe Resley-Tone Tremolo mod scheme. In doing so, the tremolo no longer starts to oscillate. Moreover, lowering the value of the 100K resistance accentuates the tremolo effect. I tested by putting a 50K variable resistor in series with a 47k. At the bottom is the best. I have to test even lower to see. But it's already excellent!
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DeleteI also swapped the 1uf's for 10uf's at some point. I am not sure if I heard any difference though. I will try your tip regarding the 100K resistor, great work!
DeleteHi francois, you are 100 percent correct, I left out the cut at board reference AG-3. It was always meant to be there but I see I forgot. Here is an updated link which shows the cut in the bottom left corner between the 100K and 4.7K resistors: https://www.dropbox.com/s/x1o2dycei5758xv/Harbinger%20One%20%28Modified%2004.05.2018%29.png?dl=0
DeleteJust an addition that might help some people :
ReplyDeleteSwitch 3-A corresponds to the 1st phasing stage
Switch 3-B corresponds to the 4th phasing stage
Switch 3-C corresponds to the 3rd phasing stage
Switch 3-D corresponds to the 2nd phasing stage
From what I ve heard I like the Rotovibe a lot, and the values it uses are 330pF, 1.5nF, 15nF and 3.3nF in that order (according to this schematic : http://schems.com/bmampscom/dunlop/Rotovibe-1.jpg )
So, if you want to try those values, the correspondence should be
SW3-A -> 330pF
SW3-B -> 3.3nF
SW3-C -> 15 nF
SW3-D -> 1.5nF
I am going to modify mine to add the cancel functionality by connecting the middle lug of the 250k offset knob to ground when the unit is in bypass.
Btw, the effect almost disappears on mine in slower speeds when the intensity is low, anyone has noticed something similar? I think it must be one of the peculiarities of the univibe :)
Enjoy :)
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ReplyDeleteI have updated the modified layout as per francois's discovery of a missing cut, thanks francois, it can be brainwashing trying to work on these large circuits. Here is the link: https://www.dropbox.com/s/x1o2dycei5758xv/Harbinger%20One%20%28Modified%2004.05.2018%29.png?dl=0
ReplyDeleteHow would I remove the "Multi-Vibe Mod"? I'm only interested in making a univibe clone.
ReplyDeleteSimplest way... do not install SW3 and on the vero connect SW3-A1 to SW3-A, SW3-B1 to SW3-B, SW3-C1 to SW3-C and SW3-D1 to SW3-D. Yes that leaves a bunch of excess capacitors, but this will work just fine.
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ReplyDeleteHas anyone successfully built this using this charge pump? Only way mine is working is if I jump pins 1 and 8 on the 1054. I know that shouldn't be, but it's the same with 1054's I know are real. Anyway, its working but sounds compressed and distorted if I play hard. I'm stumped.
ReplyDeletewhich Photocell model works best in this circuit?
ReplyDeletehttps://a.aliexpress.com/_mMcmo3C
5549 and/or 5539 a mix is also nice. But buy a set of all of them and test. They are cheaaaaaaap.
DeleteI built this awhile back and just pulled it back out. Everything "works" but it sounds really compressed and distorted. I've knifed it, reflowed solder, checked it a million times, but I still can't figure out where my problem lies. Short of probing the circuit, does anyone have an idea of what might be causing this? It's super frustrating.
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ReplyDeleteHaving trouble with this one. The 2n5088 next to the gain trimpot overheats. The intensity pot has no effect whatsoever. I've checked over this thing dozens of time... no micro connections and all component values are as stipulated. I'm getting around 17.8 volts from the charge pump. The only thing I'm not sure of is the lamp. I've just bought a 12 volt lamp from Jaycar and don't know whether the lamp makes any difference.
ReplyDeleteHave built the "Chance" version and it works. There are a couple of minor issues though. The 470uf cap (on the diagram) is spread over 4 holes when it should be only 2.... 13U to 13V. The cut shown at 25E should be at 26E as per the diagram with parts on it. Also, it shows the cuts as 33 x 34... when the norm would be to have it written as 34 x 33.... Though I should have looked before I cut the vero :(. With that it works well and thanks for a great job.
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