If you prefer to build this kind of circuit on PCB then the BYOC kit can be found here:
http://buildyourownclone.com/effects-pedals/silverpony.html
I don't know if they are going to start selling the PCB separately but you can of course enquire if you'd prefer to go that route.
Now I can hear some subtle differences when at the upper and lower end of the Treble pot, which will very probably be down to tolerance differences in the pot itself which could be as much as +/-20%. I have to say in the more central positions I can't really hear any significant difference at all. At most of the demo settings they sound identical to me, and at some the Silver Pony sounds a bit fuller. Personally I preferred the Silver Pony. Great job Keith.
and the corrected schematic
Damn. I had the Klon board on my bench for at least a month and just populated all the resistors last night
ReplyDeleteThe whole reason I built it was because I was inspired by the sound of my friend's silver "no horse" Klon, so I gotta change my board now
Did the version you built have the 1K8 resistor at Treble 1 or 3?
DeleteTreble 3
ReplyDeleteDo these changes and it will be a silver:
Delete1K8 at Treble 3 should be 4K7
4K7 at Treble 1 should be 1K8
2K at Gain1-3 should be 47R
27K at Gain2-2 should be 10K
12K at Gain2-2 should be 4K7
820p cap should be 560p
Volume pot is 10K Log
Thanks dude! I looked through and found the changes but your list makes it easier
ReplyDeleteGotta say I'm really excited to finish this build now. The demo sounded spot on, I know this will sound glorious in my rig
I see that you also rejigged the 100K going to the 3n9 and it's link but it looks like the connections remain exactly the same
ReplyDeleteGreat layout! Thank you for all your work!
ReplyDeleteCan you please post the schematics? At BYOC cannot be accessed.
Regards
Coi2001
Thank you for the schematic. I built it and it works, but I noticed that is less loud than another Klon that I built, I am going to have to test it with the audioprobe to see if there is signal loss somewhere. i'll keep you posted...
ReplyDeletecoi2001
Same with mine. It's working, but it does not have the normal amount of gain. Its acting more like a clean boost.
DeleteStrange because it's basically the same as the other layout but with just a few tweaked values. I'll go over it to check
DeleteWow....what a great layout. Still waiting for verification before I start building.mmmm
ReplyDeleteIt'll be good to go. It's based on my Rev 2 layout with just a few value changes, so I know the main layout is correct
ReplyDeleteNiceeeee! Now I'm really curious about the D9B. They are rated reverse voltage max at 10 V
ReplyDeleteI've got some D9B's and they're fine. Used is the way we do in these circuits there is never anything like 10V on them
DeleteJust ordered some Russian D9Es from an online vendor. I figure I can use 'em for other projects if they don't pan out for the Klon...
ReplyDeleteBy the way, I am planning to build a Klone using the Aion Electronics PCB, which I purchased a while back. It's a wonderful PCB and the instructions from the website are superb.
DeleteThis is no longer on hold?
ReplyDeleteNo, there were a couple of errors in the BYOC schematic which i've confirmed is the case so I'm confident the layout matches the schematic
DeleteAhh. What are the errors?
ReplyDeleteShould this be good to go? I'd love to take a stab at verifying this if the corrections have been made
ReplyDeleteThe original BYOC schematic had a couple of incorrect part values and one connection was different but that turned out to be an error so this should be good to go. It is based obviously on the last Klon layout which was verified by a few people and the changes aren't great so although at least one person doesn't seem to have got it sounding as it should, I'm pretty confident it matches the schematic.
DeleteThanks Mark. I populated all of the resistors on my board according to the changes you specified in your previous comment from July 26th
ReplyDeleteWhere any changes made since then? I'll be looking over my board now
I haven't made any since then. The resistor error in the BYOC schematic was a 100K instead of 10K at IC1 pin 5 which I think I always had as a 10K anyway. The cap error was an 82n at Treble 2 which I definitely never had in. My main concern when I saw the BYOC schematic is that they were showing the 15K at IC2 pin 2 connecting at the other side of the 47K at the same pin. But that was confirmed to be an error too.
DeleteYou can tag this one. My board is working properly and sounding fantastic
ReplyDeleteThanks for the layout and all of the help Mark!
Excellent, nice one matey
DeleteI've been playing with this circuit for hours and it sounds amazing :D
ReplyDeleteIt's pretty tight with great clarity and smooth sustain and dynamics. Buffered bypass sounds great too.
I'm going to build the OD-820 next since I know some of you guys say it sounds even better than the Klon
I still haven't boxed this one (enclosures are in the mail), but I took it to rehearsal like this :P
ReplyDeletehttp://i825.photobucket.com/albums/zz176/Dub-T-123/92A13814-9CD7-4887-89FC-77C3BBBA3090_zpseobczexa.png
It works amazingly well boosting my ac30 and I left it on the whole time! Even messily wired to my breadboard and cranked up loud this adds almost no noise, just like my friend's original silver Klon :D
I really recommend this build. The max gain setting isn't quite as good as some other ODs but the low-medium gain settings are glorious!
And here's my finished build
ReplyDeletehttp://i825.photobucket.com/albums/zz176/Dub-T-123/290B1FE6-73E2-449C-BA05-6E084F530784_zpspe2jvhdc.jpg
Not the prettiest shot ever, but here are the guts (I ran out of all wire except red and black at the time lol)
ReplyDeletehttp://i825.photobucket.com/albums/zz176/Dub-T-123/9E3359F0-8355-4DE1-8364-9DC02693ECAC_zpspbtsndol.jpg
Great job, thanks for the pic matey
DeleteHeeeeeey, these are the f*ckin' knobs i need! Can you tell me where did you get them? Thanks!
DeleteThanks
ReplyDeleteThe knobs are Davies. You can get them from smallbear and probably mouser, etc
If you find the real Davies in that oxblood or white you have to tell me though :P
Yeah, sadly on Smallbear they are out of stock as in Musikding or Retroamplis :( I've only seen'em on ebay with massive s&h to Europe, or in Banzai Music (Germany), but these ones are very prone to sell what they don't have in stock and put the item on backorder for several weeks, plus, s&h costs are very high too being in Europe. I'll keep on searching, as Mouser ant their crazy minmums in order not to pay 25$ for s&h are out of scope for me :P
DeleteI got a quote from Davies about getting a batch of oxblood 1470 knobs made. The minimum order is 100, and the price for that is $3.617 each
ReplyDeleteSo that's not a great deal.
For 250 the price drops to $2.17 each
Finally, for 500 knobs the price is $1.428 each.
So for $500 you're paying about the same per knob as you would for the black ones from smallbear. But I guarantee you could sell a lot of Klones with those oxblood knobs, and I'm sure people would gladly pay $5 each for them. Personally I just want the knobs for looks, and would sell some to cover the cost
If anyone wants in on a group buy, those are the numbers.
I think I'll stay with the Banzai - Smallbear black ones. These prices for a bulk order are crazy, if we don't find 98 people more :P
DeleteJ.
I have a couple of 1N60s from the early 1990s, forward voltage measuring 0.32v. Are these close enough?
ReplyDeletethose should be fine. supposedly the russian d9e's are almost dead on to the original. i just measured some of mine and i got forward voltage readings of .45-.55V. the tone may be similar, but the output will be a little lower then if they were the original diodes or d9e's, but it should still sound great. if you want you can put a socket in place of the diodes, and try different diodes until you get something you like.
ReplyDeleteAttention: there's an error with a cut, in the image of the empty board:
ReplyDeleteFollow the longest link, in the 12th column, down to the 8th row. The cut to the right is 3 columns away in the board with the components, but 4 columns away in the empty board. Right where one of the diodes should go... :(
Since I verified this with a fixed version of Mark's first layout I didn't notice that mistake with the cut
ReplyDeleteYou can easily still make this board work though. Put the diode right through the cut and bend the lead so that it lays on the right side of the track when you solder it in
Or you can move the 47r and diodes over to the right one space
The top right cut is also differant?
ReplyDeleteYes, and I missed the previous correction too. Layout now corrected. Thanks for the heads up all
DeleteHey all!
ReplyDeleteWhat would adding a 500k dual Lin for the gain do to this? It's all I have! Thnx...
Or could I split it to two 100k Lin pots?
ReplyDeletePersonally I'd do the 2 x 100K lin pots. Using 500K would change the gain too much and it would sound a different pedal. Using two 100K lin pots allows you to alter the dirt and dry sides independently and so could offer some interesting new tones that you couldn't get out of an original Klon, whilst still having the original sounds available to you by just keeping them both at the same point of rotation throughout the sweep.
DeleteAwesome thnx Ivlark! As for wiring the two pots. Would I wire gain 1-1 to lug 1, gain 1-2 to lug 2 and so on?
ReplyDeleteyeap. just imagine that gain1 and gain2 are two different pots. go as it was gain pot and drive pot.
DeleteAwesome thnx!
ReplyDeletemy take on the hypebox numero uno:
ReplyDeletehttp://s17.postimg.org/3sm2k52wv/IMG_0526.jpg
http://s17.postimg.org/b7beciosf/IMG_0525.jpg
not the best overdrive by far, but what a clean boost, wow, sweet bad mama!! jama :o
25 bucks for a pedal going for 1500 pistoleros cant be bad either :)
rockett pedals animal overdrive is the greatest there is ;)
tagboard effects site is the best, and it has become alive again recetlyso kudos to those too!!
I'm getting ready to build this. I have a lot of tantalum 1uf's and was wondering if I could use them in there? If so, what as the polarity on them? Starting from right to left. Thnx so much everyone!!!
ReplyDeleteAlso, is that a on/on switch? :)
ReplyDeleteOk, figured out both of the above. Found Answers in post of other klon.
ReplyDeleteHey everyone, I've never wired up a dpdt Ina stomp. Can anyone lead me in a good direction? Thnx!!!
ReplyDeletemaybe this is what you looking for?
Deletei have no idea :)
https://tagboardeffects.blogspot.se/2012/02/offboard-wiring.html
Hi,
ReplyDeleteOn the schematic there are two 47uF capacitor (c17, c18), and there's only one on the layout. Isn't it a problem?
Thanks
The layout uses a 100uf instead for extra power filtering.
DeleteHey Mark,
ReplyDeleteThis one might be a stupid question, but is there an easy way to modify this layout for true bypass?
Thanks,
Almos
Yes. Ignore the Sw1, Sw4, Output & Sw5 and Volume 2 & Sw6 wires completely. Omit the two 68K and the 100K resistors at the bottom left of the layout. Also ignore the stomp switch notes shown in the layout.
DeleteYou then wire up the stomp switch normally as shown in the offboard wiring layout. The green input wire to the circuit is self explanatory as per the offboard layout, the circuit output then goes directly from Volume 2 to the stomp.
The LED+ wire can then go straight to the LED, with the other side going to the stomp for indication. Again as per the offboard wiring layout.
Wow, thanks!
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
DeleteHey Mark,
DeleteThanks for the layout and the short guide for tbp wiring, after correcting a few bugs it works fine. Since I can't a/b test it with the original I don't know if it's a problem or not, so here's a thing:
With drive at min and max, it sounds pretty transparent, but in between it sounds a bit darker to my ears. Is it normal, or should I look after some kind of problem in the wiring?
Thanks a lot again!
This comment has been removed by the author.
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteHow would I test this circuit on the test box that is on the site?
ReplyDeleteWhat would I do with the switch wires?
You would solder the buffered bypass switch to the ciruit and take the in/out lead to the test box.
Delete+m
Got it
DeleteThank you!
Any alternative to 1N4742? I have BZV85C 12V zeners, how about these?
DeleteAny 12V zener will be fine.
DeleteHowever. i'd also suggest taking 100-150R resistor in series with the supply wire. I recently repaired one KTR which had received 12V supply voltage - burning the zener and pump chip with it. One resistor in series with the supply will make the zener able to tame higher voltages and thus, protect the supply circuit way better than stock version.
+m
Ok, thanks! Kiitän, näillä mennään!
ReplyDeleteEipä kestä. Kannattaa lisätä se vastustus sinne sarjaan kuitenkin, varuiksi...
DeleteCouldn't resist as it's not so common to see other finns here.
+m
Jep, vastustetaan...
DeleteFor the off board wires Labeled -- Vol2 & Sw6 -- is this technically 1 wire run to VOL2, then another wire run from VOL 2 to Switch position 6?
ReplyDeletecorrect
DeleteThank you.
Deleteanytime man.
DeleteIs Gain 2 POT technically the Treble POT?
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
DeleteI'm getting the following voltages from the IC pins on my build:
ReplyDeleteIC1
4.8
4.8
0.8**
0
4.6
4.8
9.2**
9.2
IC2
5
4.8
4.7
-8.9
4.7
4.7
4.7
17
IC3
9.2
4.6
0
-4.5
-8.8
5
4.2
9.2
The pins marked ** are the trouble spots. The value at pin 3 is especially perplexing since the only thing between it and the +Vb (4.5V) is a 1M biasing resistor. I double checked the resistor and it does measure to be 1 MOhm.
The pin 7 value is way too high. I first thought there may be a bridge somewhere between it and the next pin 8, but there is no continuity between the two so that's not it.
Is the under voltage at pin 3 causing the overvoltage at pin 7? Any ideas where the trouble could be coming from?
It appears that IC1 is faulty. After swapping 1 and 2 the voltage problems followed the chip. I'm getting replacements today and will verify that the chip was the issue.
ReplyDeleteThe IC was bad. All my voltages look good now!
ReplyDeleteNow that I've got a functioning pedal, I notice that if the Treble and Gain are both turned up I get a high pitched squeal, even if I hold the strings muted. If I back the gain down a bit I can leave the Treble full, or I can back off on the Treble and keep the Gain at full. Is this expected behavior?
ReplyDeleteI'm thinking of changing the C14 cap to 6.8nF to allow more bass response. Not sure if that will alleviate the squeal though. Maybe increase R21 to tame the highs?
Any thoughts?
Hi guys. I am having some troubles with this build and I hope that someone helps me out. I get no sound out of the pedal, only some weird oscillations.
ReplyDeleteThis are my measured voltages:
(9.18 POWER SUPPLY)
IC1
9,17
4,79
0
-3,71
-7,45
5,20
4,64
9,17
IC2
6,80
7,25
7,18
-7,50
7,24
7,26
7,50
9,51
IC3
8,48
8,48
7,48
7,79
7,27
7,45
8,60
0
If you need some pictures of the build i can shoot some.
I've just started building this layout and have used multilayer monolithic caps for the 1uf caps. Will these be ok or should I replace them with 1uf electrolytic caps?
ReplyDeleteAny 1uf should be fine, but don't take me too seriously since I built it with electros and it doesn't works. I am still waiting someone who helps me out ...
ReplyDeleteHi guys, I'm really struggling with this one. When I connect the power IC3 is getting really hot and I'm getting oscillating noises from the pedal. Any ideas why this is happening?
ReplyDeleteAre you using a 7660s? If you're using a 7660, you'll typically get oscillation and heat.
DeleteSo I rebuilt the circuit as I found a couple of faults. I now get a full sound when the pedal is bypassed but only a very very weak/quiet signal when engaged. Any ideas?
ReplyDeletemy voltages if this helps:
DeleteIC1
1: 4.72
2: 4.72
3: 3.62
4: 0
5: 9.43
6: 4.72
7: 4.72
8: 4.71
IC2
1: 4.72
2: 4.72
3: 4.71
4: -9.02
5: 18.03
6: 4.71
7: 4.71
8: 4.71
IC3
1: 9.43
2: 4.75
3: 0
4: -4.45
5: 9.43
6: 7.22
7: 4.66
8: -9.02
Looks like you are numbering your pins wrong. What you have as pin 5 reading is pin 8 actually. Voltage don't seem far off to me if that is the case. Chase the signal through the circuit. My cheap dirty sniffer was my iPhone into the was my amp and putting a signal into the pedal with my iPhone and an adapter. Any audio will do. Solder a wire to the output jack. The a cap to the other end to act as a do block. Use the unsoldered end to sniff the circuit. Use the schematic and layout to find your way. I found a solder bridge causing my issue.
DeleteHey iviark and the rest of my fellow pedal geeks. Getting tired here. Just built this thing and found a few issues already. But now I'm almost there. When the gain is full sounds good and loud. When I turn the gain down I loose lots on volume and as I approach the 0 gain the level creeps back up to a similar level as full dirt but clean. As I said tired and going to bed. Hoping someone can point me in the right direction by the time I finish work tomorrow. I suspect I have a solder bridge or a bad solder joint somewhere.
ReplyDeleteOh and love all the layouts.. my favourite site by far
DeleteHey guys, just built this and it was working for an hour or so, i hadnt properly mounted the board and it would cut in and out when i moved the pedal and now theres nothing at all. when it is bypassed i get a clean signal coming through but as soon as i engage the led comes on and it goes silent with a tiny bit of clean signal bleed if i crank the amp. i have gone through and checked solder joints etc, any ideas?
ReplyDeleteI had a go at measuring the ic's
9.48 power supply
Ic1
5.64
5.64
5.03
1.8
5.66
5.68
5.89
9.48
Ic2
7.86
5.7
5.65
6.16
5.65
7.46
7.87
8.45
Ic3
9.48
6.4
2
5.73
6.16
6.33
6.5
9.48
Maybe silly question, but can i get away with using a 1n4744?
ReplyDeleteGot this built, tight squeeze because of how i like my pedals laid out, but managed to get it to fit by laying down caps. I quite like the pedal, especially when combined with other pedals. The purple plexi combos great with it in my opinion.
ReplyDeleteI used 1N4001, 1N4742A, and 1N34A for my diodes. The 1N34A aren't great if you're looking to get that exact Klon sound, but they sound alright.
When I first got mine assembled I accidentally used a ICL7660 instead of the required ICL7660S, whoops. There was a high pitched whine, so if you have that problem double check you have the right IC. Once I got the right IC it fired right up.
Boxed in a 125b, I went for the classic brown and silver look. https://imgur.com/a/6hyyM
Thanks for the layout IvIark!
Is there a simple way to add a switch to kill the clean mix, so that I could see what the clipping sounds like on its own?
ReplyDeleteHello,
ReplyDeleteI've got the archer and infortunatly powered it 18V instead of 9V...
I haven't any signal yet :'(
Does anybody have an idea about wich component should have blown first ?
Thanks
OK, I finished mine as shown in the diagram. No substitutions. It works. Its right. But I am left asking, this is what the hype was all about? The only good sounds I can get is with tone down between 0 and 1. Any higher than that and it is too shrill to be usable. Granted this is at loud bedroom levels, not stage levels. I've seen people talk about how the klon only really shines if you can open the amp up wide.....but still, there is so much treble.....does anyone have any thoughts for me?
ReplyDeleteLate to the party as usual..........
ReplyDeleteBuilt two pedals - the Klon with buffer and the MXR DynaComp. Took a side bet with the wife that the Klon would fail first time but the DynaComp is so easy, you'd have to try hard to get that one wrong. So, guess what happened?
Yup, Klon started up first time and the DynaComp is lying in a dusty corner of my workshop, waiting for me to sort it out or re-build the bloody thing.
Klon sounds good at low gain settings - makes the sound 'bigger and wider' somehow - bit like when I kicked in the Fulltone FatBoost. It is a bit nasal/cocked wah-sounding on the higher gain settings though - would messing with diode values change this? or do I need to look at the caps? Or do I just need to keep building overdrive pedals until my board is ten feet wide?
Equal amounts of joy/exasperation/enlightenment/surprise/booginess, as I steadily work my way through the many, many pedal circuits you lovely people have produced. Mind you, the neighbours don;t take kindly to me road-testing gain pedals at 11pm - might need to insulate the workshop.............
Hey any chance to see here the Rev 2.0 from byoc? The one with added switches. All their pcb are sold out unfortunately
ReplyDeleteProbably a daft question, but what exactly is the DPDT switch for?
ReplyDeleteOh wait hang on. That's the foot switch isn't it? Can I just use two 3rds of an 3PDT?
DeleteYes no problem
DeleteJust built the bare bones had the standard not loud enough/unity gain issues so I built this and got the same issues. My 7660s’ whine but I think that’s down to faulty batch I got. Substituted a few parts that was within good range, nothing crazy. But yeah gain on zero and need to crank the volume just to get unity. Sweep of the gain is fine but it’s missing the boost aspect I was looking for. Any ideas?
ReplyDeleteHello, this is an old post, but still. I see in the layout "SW4" appears in 2 different places. One at the top right and another at the bottom left. Which one is good?
ReplyDeleteBoth need to be connected to SW4
DeleteThat was my guess, but thanks! You saved me some head scratching.
Delete
ReplyDeleteHi!
I've been making Silver Edition recently, but I have doubts.
What's the point of changing R10 from 2K to 43R in Silever Edition?
I think this change has the negative effect of reducing the change in gain from 7 o'clock to 10 o'clock.
Here's a list of what the different values do:
DeleteMore gain
- R3: 47ohm (stock is 2k)
Increased volume & treble for clean signal
- R13: 10k (stock is 27k)
Tweaked wet/dry ratio on Gain knob
- R14: 4.7k (stock is 12k)
Shift range of Tone knob
- R21/R23: 1.8k/4.7k (stock is 4.7k/1.8k)
Slight increase in overall brightness
- C12: 560p (stock is 820p)
I'm planning to build one this week. Personally after reading alot up on this I've decided to make it as gold but with the 43R instead. Going to also add the fat switch, diode changes from the rev 2 vero and I've also sketched out a boost switch/knob too that's inspired by BYOCS Silver Pony II. Keeping treble 1/3 as they originally were, I think it's going to make the Klon muddy (and maybe part the reason why the other values were changed to add brightness and treble back in)
I had a look at the schematics for Silver Pony on BYOC and they don't have the corrections that are listed on the one on this post? The parts on the silver ponies they sell look exactly to look exactly the same as the gold?
ReplyDeleteI've answered my own question...
ReplyDeleteFrom BYOC themselves.
"BYOC Silver Pony
"In 2014, Keith from Build Your Own Clone degooped a silver Centaur (serial S2207) and released a kit called the Silver Pony. Keith found a number of discrepancies from the Soulsonic schematic, which were attributed to Gold vs. Silver differences. This was latched onto by the DIY community, and these “Silver Specs” changes were widely distributed within a few days of his posting.
However, someone later pointed out that of course S698 was a Silver as well, so we were definitely not looking at the “Silver Specs”, at least not in a manner that contrasted with S698’s “Gold Specs” as was commonly claimed for awhile. In retrospect, no one’s quite sure what to make of the Silver Pony situation, whether the trace was inaccurate or whether it was an experimental unit built by Bill—which was not unheard of.
So the “Silver Pony specs” are as a curiosity, maybe worth socketing and testing out if you’re interested. Some people definitely like it, but just know that it’s not representative of a silver Klon Centaur. The BYOC Silver Pony kit was discontinued in early 2015"
So the alterations are NOT a silver Centuar, and the treble 1/3 situation is wrong. It was correct in the original schematics and the one Keith had was likely the wrong one, meaning it's now wrong in all over Klon builds here too?
Any ideas of how I can wire this one up to a soft patch true bypass relay?
ReplyDeleteI love this site. This is the latest choice for me. I've had one of the NUX dual gold/silver clones on my board since i got it. Sits on the front and I think of it as the upgraded clean. I have a lot on my board and have also added a small KLON buffer after modulation part of my line. I always use the silver option seems to have more response. I sourced some 1N34a diodes from Aliexpress believe it or not. Cant guarantee they are genuine but they are germanium with avg forward V .35V and are heat sensitive. Look & act the same. HQ-Mart are the seller if anyone wants to place a good bet. I had to make this a couple of times. First one had a squeal I couldnt find the fault. Got sick of looking- make it again, be faster- you know the feeling. 2nd attempt is working perfectly.
ReplyDeleteMore natural/raw sounding than the NUX. Perfect for me.
Thanks again to Mark &co.