Similar sort of vein as the Diefet, but this time based on the Bogner Ecstasy. It's a 9V circuit, but I thought it would again be worth including a charge pump with this and so have added the small daughterboard to allow you to supply it with 18V (or either 9V or 18V if you want to add an extra toggle switch).
The boost switch is intended to be a second stomp and so you just need a SPST, but can use a double pole if you want LED indication.
Here's the vids:
and a comparison vid between the Goosoniqueworx Seventheaven and the Bogner Ecstasy Red
Love to see a version of the bogner blue pedal.
ReplyDeleteThis one is up my alley since I own a bogner blue LOL
ReplyDeleteadded to the list :-)
This comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteYes post it please and I'll do the layout. I love these amp sims.
DeleteQuick question since I have never really dealt with the dreaded jfets YET, but I assume you set the jfet voltages with the trimmers and need to get the jfets into the 4.5v + or - range
ReplyDelete(or tune by ear) ?
You set the drains to half the supply voltage, so either 4.5V or 9V. JFETs gain stages are no problem in layouts with trimmers
DeleteI tuned mine by ear.
DeleteI built this from Haralds site but never get it to work properly, so I will definitly try this!
ReplyDeleteI found a schematic for Peavey 5150. Heres a link to it if youre intressted.
http://a.imageshack.us/img441/2018/fiftyone.jpg
/Mortua
Cool, saved :o)
DeleteThe "channel" switch... I think I read over at harald sabro's that it's a change in value of one resistor.. Which would it be on this layout?
ReplyDeleteI am think it's the 500K at top right, in parallel with the 470p cap. Am I getting warm?
DeleteI've just checked the original amp schematic which shows the channel used for this effect and it is basically exactly the same as the Seventheaven schematic. Absolutely identical. I can't see anything in that channel schematic which could relate to the Channel switch, and so I'm assuming that the amp's channels are very similar and the only difference between them is whatever that switch changes which will then have exactly the same effect as changing channels on the amp. I can't confirm that though until I can see a full Ecstasy schematic.
DeleteOk, I need to go with this one next week, I wanted the red but so expensive, great alternative :)
ReplyDeleteI preferred it to the Red in that demo
DeleteMe too, I'm really impressed, hope to do fast :D
Deleteoh my.. finally found this schematic!!!! uyyeeaahhh!!
ReplyDeleteJust in time now that J201s have gone extinct ;). I've built this from Sabro's layout. this layout is much smaller and cleaner. I'd love to eliminate the trimmers- could probably save a column or two by using fixed resistors determined with a trimmer or decade box. The "Structure" switch is the channel switch. It's definitely a huge difference when you switch it, roughly equivalent to the difference between the Bogner Blue and Bogner Red pedals--I recommend putting in three footswitches, boost and structure both change the pedal enough to warrant being stompable. Also this pedal really benefits from a buffer after it--I built one in (from this site) because it did not play nice with the pedals that followed it, it's got low input impedance and fairly high output impedance and wasn't working with my other pedals unbuffered. I have the Bogner Red pedal but have not used it since I built this.
ReplyDeleteI actually don't think losing the trimmers would save you any columns. If you look at it, if you removed the trimmers which take up 3 columns each, and used resistors instead, that would give you a theoretical saving of 6 columns, but it isn't the trimmers that are dictating the width, it's all the passive components around the jfets. I reckon at most it would save 1 column, although it could potentially save 1 or 2 rows as well.
DeleteAnd you're not going to gain much with your saved space anyway. With a 6 pot and (at least) 2 stomp build you're going to be using a 125B as an absolute minimum and the board would fit easily in that as it is with lots of room to spare.
Yes the J201s and other jfets disappearing is a real pain. I stocked up as best I could but even for personal use I'm sure I'll run out one day. But all is not lost, at least there are SOT23 J201s and 2N5457s plentifully and cheaply available now. I bought some SOT23 to through-hole spaced DSG adapters that papasmurfsharem shared the layout for on diystompboxes through OSH Park. They are a bit fiddly to solder but once you've got them the supply of JFETs in endless again. As an added bonus I saw someone mention that the SOT23 J201s have very closely matched characteristics and so there's the chance that they will be even better to use for things like phasers where that is crucial if you want to avoid time consuming and laborious matching.
Oh and thanks for the info about the buffer, good to know.
DeleteGo to TAYDA for 201's.
DeleteI wouldn't do that. Tayda J201s are well known for being nearly defective.
DeleteBest option is to walk local stores to see if they still have something available or locked in their back rooms.
This way I could find some hundreds of J201, 2N5457-58 and 2N3819, besides lots of germanium transistors and diodes, (like the AA143, best germanium diodes I've ever tried), and many other vintage components hard to get. Mnay of them at the price thay had in the 60's :P
http://thumbnail.image.rakuten.co.jp/@0_mall/ninevolt/cabinet/kihon3/img62540633.jpg The Red version seems to have 6 transistors, more resistors and capacitors.
ReplyDeleteAnd also a dual channel (with bicolor led)
DeleteAfter what charger said above, it probably has an output buffer. Just add the one of your choice. One thing is for sure, the Seventheaven matches the amp schematic exactly, so there's no way the Bogner Red is a closer circuit match.
DeleteActually, looking at the front panel it obviously has a bit more going on in terms of the switching options which will account for some of the additional components, but the most important thing to me is the main audio circuit, and as I said that won't be any closer to the Ecstasy than the Seventheaven.
DeleteWhen I speaked about red, it's the Red 7th (limited edition that it's probably the same than the white), I was just disapointed to see differents gutshots of this pedals, some with 5 transistors on , some with 6 (the new oneà, different channels on one toggle with the white one. etc.
DeleteBut I read what Charger and you say, and I understand the switches options (structure it's the dual channel on the new one, boost is missed in the one) but I'm really impressed by this pedal, I'm going to build next week, thanks a lot for your job.
Aah right, I didn't even know he was making them as a commercial product, I thought it was just a DIY circuit. But no matter, anyone can add switching to do anything if it's going to mean the pedal works better with their gear. The important thing for me as someone who has always loved the Ecstasy is that the main circuit matches that and so should be as close as possible that you can get with JFETs.
DeleteIf I can find a full schematic of the switching options of the amp I'll post a few suggestions about other mods that could be done in terms of additional switches and pots. One that immediately comes to mind is making it an 8 pot pedal with 2 gain and volume controls making it a much more controllable "2 channels". Then you can have one setting for rhythm and one for lead or whatever you want. It would be a cool project for a 1590DD or similar box, with bypass, channel, structure and boost stomps. That would be a real monster.
From the goosniqueworx website: "Another new feature on the 7thvn will be the dedicated Jfet output buffer with low impedance output that is easily capable of driving long cables and capacitive loads assures flawless integration with external units and not suffer degradation or high frequency loss." So that explains the new JFET.
ReplyDeleteI'm seeing a couple of differences on the web--one version has a second switch that switches between "feedback" and "presence." Another version replaces the "character" switch with a "Pre-eq" switch (probably to match the Bogner pedals for some reason). For my money, the version that has the schematic out there is good as is, it's essentially a direct clone of the Bogner Ecstasy circuit with JFETs replacing triodes. You can add your own output buffer, or build one into the vero, I used this buffer because it was small - http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/diyuser/Sundgist/Jfet+Buffer+Stripboard.gif.html - and I think I used 1.8M resistors in R2 and R3 for a 900k input impedance.
Won't a 9/18 v switch mess up the transistor biasing?
ReplyDeleteNo it won't. The bias will stay correct when the voltage changes. If it is correct with one voltage, it will be correct with others too.
Delete+m
So, I see two toggles on the original but only see one here. Am I missing something?
ReplyDeleteHe must have added an extra switch in one of the later versions he sells, we only have the schematic for the original circuit and won't know any further mods he's done unless someone gets hold of one and takes a look inside. We've got the important bit though.
DeleteGotcha. Thanks!
DeleteI built this one today. the only errors are that the presence and treble pots work backwards.
ReplyDeleteI also added the extra 100R as per the schematic.
http://johnkvintageguitars.homestead.com/Effects/Fuzz-ODs/7thHeaven/001-7thHeaven.png
Mark's charge pump fried one of my ICL7660S's so I just used the standard one. the 100uf filter cap on the charge also caused mine to whine/squeal so I removed it and it's good to go.
it's a great sounding emulator. thanks for posting it Mark!
I always get the presence pots the wrong way round, even when the lug numbering is marked on the schematic. :o) But I'm confused about the treble pot. This is a classic Marshall tone stack, exactly the same as is used in the Modern SLO, Diefet etc, and it's always Treble 3 that connects from the stage with Treble 1 connecting to Bass 2 & 3. Will you check what you did there?
DeleteI just checked the treble pot again. it definitely has treble 3 connected to bass 2&3 to work properly, and treble 1 goes to the main board.
Deletei built this one today too.. replace 500k resistor to Gate Q4 with 1M to add more gain, because when Gain full CW sounds not like high gain distortion.. nice works ivlark.. thanks
ReplyDeletehello .. does this mod affect unity volume ?
DeleteI tried something silimar on sabrotone´s layout but with what I think would be the 10K resistor of Q5 source (R17 on Sabro´s) , increasing it to 1M.. There was a slight volume drop, but easily compensated with the volume pot
Awesome! I'm populating my board now. Does Mids 1 not connect to anything? If there's only a connection to lugs 2 and 3, I'm not sure I understand how it would do anything. I'm probably missing something :)
ReplyDeleteThanks!
It goes to ground but I missed it off the notes, now added
DeleteThanks!
ReplyDeleteGot this built and the character of the gain is awesome--very responsive. Is anyone else finding the pedal to be extremely bright, though? With the bass at max and the treble and presence at minimum, it's still pretty shrill. The only substitutions I made were 510k resistors instead of 500k--would that have a drastic effect?
ReplyDeleteThanks!
I first used 510K's in mine too, but that doesn't make much difference since I also later tried 500K's as well.
DeleteI changed the 3 coupling caps in mine to higher values since I use mine with a bass and it now has a TON of low end.
pics:
http://johnkvintageguitars.homestead.com/Effects/Fuzz-ODs/7thHeaven/7thvn-01-2.jpg
http://johnkvintageguitars.homestead.com/Effects/Fuzz-ODs/7thHeaven/7thvn-02.jpg
BTW, my earlier comment about the treble pot working backwards was wrong. I just forgot to install the 470P treble cap (doh!)
Nice! Any recommendations for values on those caps? Thanks !
DeleteHi all.
ReplyDeleteA 4.75K resistor. Go to http://www.electronics2000.co.uk/calc/series-parallel-resistor-calculator.php and use the 'calculator' to reach rare values of capacitance and resistance.
I used the - '2 resistors in parallel' - section to learn that a 10k and 9.1k in parallel equals exactly 4.75K!! Might make a difference in the build sound quality.
It's a very handy sight to save errors and/or shipping for a resistor value you might use 2 times in a thousand.
jeff
I built this thing per the values in the picture and it took a while (by ear) to tune it but it sounds great. I sat for maybe an hour turning trimmers until the shrillness was gone and the tone became very tweekable from the top pots.
ReplyDeleteNot electronically versed but tweeking the trimmer closest to the 18v out spot and the one closest to the gain 3 out spot are critical to eliminating the shrill tone issues. They highly controllable and highly unstable! The other 2 trims are master volts and master distortion trims?!?! I guess.
The Openhaus is next..still trying to reach nirvana.....another 30 or 40 drive/distortions might do it. Thanks Mark.
Can you post voltages?
DeleteJust finished it!!! Thank you!!!
ReplyDeletehttps://soundcloud.com/diminalbantov/diy-bogner-ecstasy-pedal-preamp
Thanks for sharing Dimi, sounds fantastic
DeleteHere is a video :)
ReplyDeletehttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dcn1t0iCzs4
Excellent :o)
DeleteI've been struggling for a month to get mine to work. I've tried 2 vero layouts and now have a coppler clad layout per Goose's schematic. I have no distortion at all. I have my clean guitar signal, all pots and knobs work. I've replaced all Jfets. I can't find any wiring or parts issues (values or misplaced) I'm pulling my hair out. Any help would be great, thank!
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
DeleteHi, after tweaking the trimmers, I had a better result with the following voltages at the drain of every J201:
ReplyDeleteWall @9.05, POTS CRANKED ALL THE WAY UP AND BYPASS SWITCHED ON
BOOST SWITCHED OFF
Struct.OFF
Q4 4,52
Q3 4,43
Q2 4,41
Q1 4,33
Struct.ON
Q4 5,48
Q3 4,35
Q2 1,87
Q1 4,30
BOOST SWITCHED ON
Struct.OFF
Q4 4,60
Q3 4,43
Q2 4,41
Q1 4,33
Q4 5,18
Q3 4,35
Q2 1,91
Q1 4,30
It's still to be improved but I hope it'll help those who've been seeking less shrill and more gain/distortion.
Hi,
ReplyDeleteFirst and foremost, thanks for an awesome site, and for all the people on here will ing to lend a hand!
I built this, and works as it should at 9v, but when I run it at 18v, all the biases are way off, it it squeels through most of the gain range range, especially with structure engaged.
For the bias issue, when I step up the voltage, it jumps from 4.5v to 13.4v. I've tried using an isolated power supply as well as the charge pump, and the results are always the same.
I'm going to go through the offbard wiring and all the solder joints on the board for the 6th time now to see if I can get rid of the squeeling, but in the mean time, any thoughts on where the weird voltage stuff is coming from?
Thanks in advance!
just a feeling here...
Deletei believe that what you're getting isn't your fault.i think that this mod "9v either 18v" can't work well with this effect. my English are not too good to explain that but i'll try. if you follow the 18v wire on the layout, there is a 100r that provides voltage for the first trimmer witch biases q4.from that 100r, there is an other one 100r provides less voltage to the next 2 trimmers that bias q2 and q3. and finally from the 2nd 100r an other one provides much less voltage to q1. all this "100r chain" has a different affect in voltage drooping between 9v or 18v, and that means (to me) that this difference, could also affect the biasing.
i could be wrong cause i'm not an expert, but i guess that if you bias your fets while providing 18v in the circuit, it will work just fine. and if then turn it to 9v it won't work correct again.
i know Miro said a few comments above that this won't mess the biasing, but i j u s t feel that this would work only if ALL fets get the same 18v/9v without those 100r.
am i way off?
again. i'm not a mathematician..!
Savvas
Thanks for the input. It actually makes sense, and it's ironic that what I was neglecting to consider was Ohm's law :) I guess the basic problem with the voltage conversion is that for the 100R resistors to provide a voltage drop in proportion to the change in voltage, the current would have to change with it. Whether or not the fets *should* draw twice as much current when the voltage doubles is beyond my understanding, but at least in my case, they definitely don't.
DeleteThat said, The voltage drop across those resistors is pretty minimal... the most I measured was 0.2V, so given that, the biases shouldn't be radically out. Again, I don't know much more than the absolute basics, but it seems there is something else in play in here. The only fet that I can't bias properly after this is Q3. I ended up installing a 1k resistor in place of the middle 100R, which brings Q3 down to just a hair over where I'd probably leave it.
The squealing/whistling I have only really kicks in with structure engaged, so outside of replacing the input and output wires with shielded ones (I tried to cheat, and cheaters really never win ;) ), I might just adjust the cap and resistor that connect Q2 to ground to add a little less gain.
With structure out, though, this thing roars :)
Hello everyone!
ReplyDeleteI want to know from IvIark or by other users, if instead of the resistor 4K75, I can use a resistor 4K7?
And instead of the 500K resistors, I can use resistors 510K?
Instead of the pot 20K lin, I can use a 25K lin?
I also wanted to ask which of the two layouts occurred and running?
I ask this to be sure to choose the right one.
http://johnkvintageguitars.homestead.com/Effects/Fuzz-ODs/7thHeaven/001-7thHeaven.png
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1xn3n9wFckk/U61vXSYXDMI/AAAAAAAAH_8/HcOzBzitOj8/s1600/Goosoniqueworx+Seventheaven.png
Thanks, I hope to have an answer to my questions.
I'd like to know the same thing too please. I'm certain I saved (and built from) the image from here, which is the same one from JohnK's site, but the one currently up here is different.
DeleteSpecifically, the one at JohnK's site has different EQ labeling and is different around Q4. It also lacks "Structure 2" and has more cuts and links. It's dated 6/18/14 and marked as verified.
I think I read some comments about updated tone pot connections...
From another commenter:
Delete"Hi all.
A 4.75K resistor. Go to http://www.electronics2000.co.uk/calc/series-parallel-resistor-calculator.php and use the 'calculator' to reach rare values of capacitance and resistance.
I used the - '2 resistors in parallel' - section to learn that a 10k and 9.1k in parallel equals exactly 4.75K!! Might make a difference in the build sound quality.
It's a very handy sight to save errors and/or shipping for a resistor value you might use 2 times in a thousand.
jeff"
That said, I'm sure 4.7k would be fine.
Personally not too worried about a 50r difference between 4.7k and 4.75k when I'm already using 510k instead of 500k (can't get 500k locally).
ReplyDeleteI suppose I could always use two 1meg in parallel to get the 500k.
I also guess I'll have to try it first anyway, but is it worth setting up a footswitch for different gain+volume levels as mentioned before, or just use a footswitch for structure to work as a channel switch (also as mentioned before) - or maybe both? I'm definitely looking at a 3 stomp DD enclosure at least anyway (bypass, structure, boost).
Hi everybody, thx a lot for this great layout and all the others on this fantastic website!!
ReplyDeleteI finished mine work and sound awesome!!
But I have got the same squeal problem than describes on previous comments when Structure switch is engaged ; anybody have a solution to solve this ?
I had same squeal with the Catalinbread DLS MKIII ; I replace the 7660S with a LT1054 and the squeal was gone !
Can I you an LT1054 with this charge pump?
Thx for your help
Geoffroy
Hmm... I really want this one to work as I loved the video demos.
ReplyDeleteI've built this version of Johns:
http://johnkvintageguitars.homestead.com/Effects/Fuzz-ODs/7thHeaven/001-7thHeaven.png
but while I've got the voltages all on 4.5 (running off a fresh 9v battery), it sounds ok, but has a fuzzy "blat" to it, especially/mainly when the boost is on. The structure switch doesn't seem to make much of a difference, but the boost definitely does.
It sounds way better with a klon buffer after it but I'm getting a squeal with the boost on when a buffer is in the chain. I can get rid of that squeal if I turn the treble right down... (everything is up flat out for testing purposes).
Any ideas? I'll go through and check joins and the like in the meantime. Non boost, it sounds pretty good, now if I can just get rid of the "blat"..
Putting a buffer before and after does a lot of good. No squeal now, but the boost is still a bit blatty.
ReplyDeleteThink I'm pretty happy with this. I'm running a jfet buffer before and after, and also running at 18v using a MAX1044 as the charge pump. It was still a bit blatty, so I engaged the boost, turned all the knobs up flat out and trimmed by ear, which took a while, until the max gain with no blat was found.
ReplyDeleteSo, I think it's about right, or as close to.
Swapping Q4's 500k resistor for a 1meg is a monster change. Stacks more dirt now. I'm still fiddling with this though. Boost doesn't make as much difference with the new resistor, but I'm also still fiddling with the trimmers. Setting them all for 9v or so (running with the charge pump) is probably a bit too much. Doing it by ear is probably the best way... dunno.
ReplyDeleteI'm also finding that the gain range on the pot is substantially more narrow. It's basically "crazy" to "slightly less crazy"
What I do know is that the structure switch doesn't make any difference to my build, and hasn't since I first tested it (with, without buffers, 9 or 18v).
Using this layout, my treble pot works in reverse:
http://johnkvintageguitars.homestead.com/Effects/Fuzz-ODs/7thHeaven/001-7thHeaven.png
WHICH SCHEMATIC IS THIS MADE FROM
ReplyDeleteYELLING IS THE BEST WAY TO GET ANSWERS!
Delete+m
This comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteHi everyone - greetings from Australia. Thanks to everyone who has contributed to this forum, particularly those who take the time and show the patience to share their knowledge with everyone - its greatly appreciated, and i have learnt so much in a small amount of time.
ReplyDeleteI'm a bog fan of 70s metal - particularly love the tones of Judas Priest Unleashed in the East album, so surprise surprise, my first projects were treble boosters and mxr D+, then onto the fabled cornish ss2. All successful, so then i decided to take on this beast based on Brett Kingmans demo.
So how did i go? Well, I took on the 9V version Mark has posted above and biased the jfets to around the 4.5V mark. So i plugged it into my trusty Albion TCT50 and held my breath. Bugger, no sound. Nothing. Then i saw a small problem - no battery. D'oh!!
Bloody hell this thing cranks - after playing around for half an hour or so, i took the advice and rebiased Q3 and Q4 by ear to take away the top end - much sweeter.
So thanks to everyone -I took Marks further advice with the idea of a DD box. As a bedroom basher only, i used a DD box with the pots and toggles all side mounted (no footswitch)so now i have an always on / amp top box in the tradition of the rangemaster.
So in answer to qs above:
1. Yes, the schematic above does work and is verified
2. Take the time to bias by ear - well worth it
3. Don't forget to put in a battery - they work better that way.
4. common 510k and 4k7 are fine
5. cornish booster AFTER seemed to tame it a bit, so I would take other peoples advice and consider a buffer
Thanks again to everyone who takes the time to trace schematics, share them and keep us educated. You are all bloody legends!! I think after this one, I am ready to take on the Signal Pad. Cheers
Are there anyone like me thought that the presence knob doesn't work at all?
ReplyDeleteAny mods to increase the gain of this pedal?
ReplyDeleteChange the 500k resistor on Q4, up the gain pot to 1meg.
DeleteHey guys!
ReplyDeleteCould somebody help me where to start seeking for any problems?
I just don't have enough gain from this pedal, it's like a crbunch stuff, not a hi gain monster (I replaced the Q4 gate 500K resistor to an 1M). And it's strange but I hit the boost switch, it becomes less distorted and less loud. (The boost is ON when it's 2 wires are connected by the switch?) If all of the pots on the max, structure is on, bypass is off(?) it has the maximum gain, but it's still not high gain, just not enough ie for simple smetal riffing. I use an active guitar anyway.
I tried it on 9V, and my voltages are:
BOOST OFF, STRUCTURE OFF
Q4: 4.54
Q3: 4.47
Q2: 4.49
Q1: 4.50
BOOST ON, STRUCTURE OFF
Q4: 4.54
Q3: 4.46
Q2: 4.48
Q1: 4.52
BOOST OFF? STURCTURE ON
Q4: 3.90
Q3: 4.44
Q2: 2.12
Q1: 4.49
BOOST ON, STRUCTURE ON
Q4: 4.19
Q3: 4.40
Q2: 2.22
Q1: 4.50
I've checked for wiring, pots, component values, placements many times (I found a misplaced cap that I fixed), cold solderings and everything seems to be ok, and i have no idea where should I continue troubleshooting...
hey Mark and all other good ppl of the forum
ReplyDeleteabout the squeling treble feedbacky sound I throw a ds-1 front of 7th Heaven and the squeking stopped. Buffer in front (and probably at the end of 7th heaven) definetely works. Keep that in mind when biasing the circuit at 18V. (Y)
I used the boss input and output buffers on vero with this build and it killed the squeal.
DeleteBit of a necro revival, bit I built this again, this time from the layout at the top of this post but only on 9v, and it's working great - no buffer, no squeal, structure and boost switches are making noticeable differences. I was going to build this with just the boost on a footswitch, but the structure is possibly a better move. Both would be ideal...
ReplyDeleteYour revival is very convenient as I'm about to start mine. So, a straight build from the layout on top worked?
DeleteSorry for the 2 years between comments.
DeleteYes, the image at the top of this page works great.
By the way, it looks like the only significant difference between Red and Blue is that Blue has one less gain stage.
ReplyDeleteThe Bogner XTC amp schematic: https://i.imgur.com/qMPYiRC.jpg
It was suggested in this post that the Structure switch was Red/Blue, but to me it looks more like it changes the second tube/transistor's gain and EQ. From my limited understanding, lowering the resistance to ground lowers the gain.
The Bogner channel switching uses a relay which toggles between 2 pairs of pots; one pair of gain pots and one pair of level pots, allowing you to balance the two channels. Those aren't really necessary for a pedal, of course.
The significant difference is that the third tube/transistor (V3b/Q3) is skipped.
It should be pretty easy to recreate this feature in this stripboard layout. I'll try it once my parts arrive and report back.
Okay, I've just traced it out, here is the Red/Blue mod:
ReplyDeletewww.puzzlefactory.uk/Bogner-XTC-pedal-Goosoniqueworx-Seventh-Heaven---Blue-Red-switch.jpg
As you can see in the inset section on the right, the 500k+470p that are in parallel feeding the Gate of Q4 have been moved to new tracks, that connects to the new SPDT switch's common (pin 2). Pins 1 + 3 come post-Q3 (the pink X) and pre-Q3 (the pink circle), which is the point where the 100n+500K meet.
When you relocate one side of 500k+470p, you will need to break the track to avoid bridging a connection to somewhere we don't want.
The only other significant difference between Bogner's and Goosoniqueworx's designs is that Bogner has post-gain EQ whereas Seventh Heaven is pre-gain. (And that it uses transistors instead of tubes, of course!)
I'm looking forward to building this! Thanks everyone who's contributed so far!
(Incidentally, apparently this circuit is much more stable at 9v than at 18v, so I'm planning to start it as a 9v build.)
This comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteso, i built this great layout - but when switched on i'm getting no sound, and drain voltages are at about 11-16 volts, except on Q1 where they're normal - where do i even start looking?
ReplyDeleteOK - Q4 is OK
DeleteQ3 = 12V
Q2 - 9.6V
I've finally gotten around to boxing my build of this tonight into a DD. I've put the boost and structure on separate footswitches, and included a switch for 9-18v using the included charge pump in the layout.
ReplyDeleteI was messing around with a buffer, but there's no squeal even with the gain at full. It's substantially louder at 18v, and while I haven't tested it completely, at 9v it might struggle to get to unity.
I do like this drive a lot.
Howdy Folks! I love this guy so much, I've built two of them now. I decided to build them without the charge pump and just run them at 18V.
ReplyDeleteI am having an issue with both of them squealing like mad if the treble and/or presence knobs are set kinda high and I try to move the tone knob on my jazz bass past say 2 o'clock-ish. I have included a Cornish buffer on the output which helps a little bit, but really just changes the frequency of the squeal more than anything. Otherwise operates and sounds like it should.
Also, this whole thing is crammed into a 1590BB. Might it benefit from having a little more room to breathe?
Any suggestions on how to further tame this little piggy would be greatly appreciated. THANKS!!