Info about the original:
This device has found its way into many of Eddie Van Halen's recordings, adding a shimmery velocity to lead passages or a more dramatic swoosh to muted strumming. Not just for guitars; it works well with bass, keyboards and even vocals. Vary the speed from a subtle, long cycle to a fast, watery warble...and myriad vintage vibrations in between.
[Updated 21st May 2014 - re-jigged to make better use of space but all connections as per the original verified layout]
Modified version with added depth control. The Depth 1 wire needs to connect in the hole under the link, so it's probably advisable to raise that link slightly to give you room.
Yeeeeeeeeeeeeees! I've seen a million Phase 45 layouts, but the EVH obsession in me needed this! Thanks!
ReplyDeleteany chance of a phase 100 layout.
ReplyDeleteWith 6 ICs and 4 transistors it's something that I would always use a PCB for. I may still do it one day but it's not going to be in the near future any time.
DeleteThe idea of a vero Phase 100 is super exciting though. That would be a fun challenge.
DeleteI have a version 2 Small Stone and a Boss PH-1r so I should take it easy on 4 stage phasers. Been curious about the Phase 100 since noticing the guitarist from Wooden Shjips uses one
Shit, 2N5952, and you need a quad! Sheer unobtainum! Phasers are a real bitch to build, so i'd recommend if someone's interested in the build, to purchase a previously matched quad, as for this kind of builds, the model and the match of the trannies is critical.
ReplyDeleteHave just ordered a quad at Musikding (4.50€), will check the build once the order gets here. I still remember getting two quads for the Phazex (2N5457 and BF244) and it was a real pain in the ass :P, never again, and even less with 2N5952, pretty scarce and expensive.
I think 2N5457 would work fine too. 2N5952 aren't unobtainium though, I've got hundreds :o)
DeleteLucky you, I have... 4 pieces :P, but no problem, the quad at Musikding is reasonably priced if you think that you'll have not to check about 100 pieces :P.
DeleteWill do some checks with the 2N5457 too when the board is finished.
J.
I think I either used 2N5457 or J201 as I have plenty of those. I got a larger batch of J202's too for nuts, I'll try them too at some point I think.
DeleteI've used the Musikding's quad for the pase 90 and it worked as a charme
DeleteBanzaimusic has 2n5952 and a lot other matched jfets and transistors...and good prices to.
ReplyDelete/Mortua
am build with j201, and bc550, so far so god, and 10uf +4,7uf for 15uf
ReplyDeleteI think I went with a 22u cap that actually measured about 17u. I also swapped the 1M resistor going from the trimmer to the gates of the fets to a potmeter, this gives you a nice depth control.
DeleteThanks for the tip about the depth pot
DeleteAlready done one with the sabrotone layout and it fired first shot but I do like the shape of this better, easier to box. I have to say that the script mod is a must. I won't even bother with the stock setting anymore as I really do not like how it sounds. Also I've always found this too bright and thin sounding - I'm more of a small stone guy. I did a few mods to it to make it sound more to my taste. To my shame I really cannot remember all of them (always make notes goddamnit!) but I'm sure that I upped the input cap for a thicker and creamier sound and it made wonders! Also I found that it boosts my amp so I added a master volume trimmer to the end of the circuit and dialed it down a little bit. Overall it's a great build!
ReplyDeleteThe 2n5087 should also work in place of the 2n4125
ReplyDeleteOr an easy and cheap to get 2N3906
DeleteAh, I sold the one I built with tonepads PCB and lately wanted to build another one.
ReplyDeleteMark, would you mind adding a layout with the deep control ?
It's very usefull and adds a lot of versatility to the phase 90
http://diy.musikding.de/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/phaserschalt.pdf
Basically I think it's just the 1M resistor going from the gate of Q1 to the bias trimmer that is splitted in a 500k rev log pot wired as variable resistor in serie with a 470k resistor
Added
DeleteAwesome !
DeleteThanks a lot Mark
I noticed the pinouts for the 2N5952 was the opposite to the normal arrangement I seem to use for the common JFETs, and so have reversed the JFETs in the layouts. Remember if you use something else like 2N5457, then they will need rotating 180 degrees
ReplyDeleteJust finished the normal version (without the depth control) - fired up first try(just had to adjust the trimmer), so this one's verified.
ReplyDeleteI also built it as per your layout with no substitutions - Thanks Ivlark!
Awesome Frank, thanks for verifying! Post a pic if you can please so I can add it to my collection :o)
DeleteHere's a pic:
Deletehttp://tinyurl.com/oraaemn
Excellent, thanks Frank
DeleteA few things look different from the layout. Like the 6th 47n, and the 2N4125 is in a different location, or am I overlooking something?
DeleteI updated it a few weeks ago, but just rejigged things to make a better use of space as per the note under the video. All the connections remain the same though, so if you have an earlier version of the layout that's good as well.
DeleteHi Mark!
ReplyDeleteLooking at Tonepad's schematic, shouldn't Sw1 of the script mod go to pin 6?
No. I don't follow the opamp channels specified in schematics unless the opamp types are different and used for a reason, because there is no reason to, and the results will be identical. Instead I always use the channels that allow the best flow of the layout. So I used the left hand channel for that part of the circuit. 2 is the inverting input of the left side, 6 is the inverting input of the right side.
DeleteCool! Thanks!
ReplyDeleteJust wanted to double check before I give it a go.
what do u thing 2n5458
ReplyDeleteThey may be ok but you can only try and see. The problem is that the cutoff voltage in the 2N5458 can be higher than in the 2N5952 and so they may need to be more carefully selected.
Deleteok,about elco 15u, cant i change to 22u. thank before
ReplyDeleteIt's part of the LFO and so any change may affect the timing. Personally I'd get the correct value unless you just want to socket and test
DeleteI just finished this one (depth knob, script mod) and during the build I found out that the schematic has a fault. There is a 4 point link in line 15 (from left to right) on the second pic of the schematic which is just showing the links and cuts. If you look at the full schematic including all the parts, you can see that this link is in line 16 (from left to right).
ReplyDeleteI built the effect based on the full schematic.
The problem I now have is that the effect is not working. When I turn it on, the signal just gets weaker and there is a repeating noise coming temporally in the background like on - off - on etc.
What could be the reason for this?
Thanks for the heads up, I'll correct it. I assume you have altered yours, or put the 150K on the other side of the link?
DeleteIf you've corrected yours post all the IC and JFET pin voltages to see if it gives any clues.
I just used the schematic on the left and took out the link of line 15 after I saw that it was supposed to be in line 16. I did it the same way you just corrected it.
DeleteThe voltages are:
IC (upper)
1: 8,13 (sometimes 1,51)
2: 1,66 (sometimes 5,87)
3: 3,73
4: 0
5: 0,72 (sometimes 3,68)
6: 3,69
7: 5,87
8: 9,07
IC (middle)
1: 3,73
2: 3,73
3: 3,73
4: 0
5: 3,73
6: 3,74
7: 5,8
8: 9,07
IC (lower)
1: 3,73
2: 3,74
3: 2,53
4: 0
5: oscillating 3,26 and 3,37
6: oscillating 3,99 and 4,05
7: oscillating between 3,77 and 4,27
8: 9,07
2N5952 (from left 1)
D: 3,68
S: 3,68
G: 1,40
2N5952 (from left 2)
D: 3,73
S: 3,73
G: 1,40
2N5952 (from left 3)
D: 3,73
S: 3,73
G: 1,73
2N5952 (from left 4)
D: 3,73
S: 3,73
G: 1,40
2N4125
C: 0,91
B: 3,3
E: 3,73
I noticed that the voltages on IC1 change and they are not oscillating like on IC3. How can that be?
Well the obvious thing straight away is pin 1 of the top IC. If that is changing intermittently between 8.13 and 1.51V then it makes me very suspicious of the cut between that and pin 8 which obviously has 9V on it. Redo all the cuts to make sure there are no burrs in them which could be causing the issue, and to make sure they are complete. See if that affects the voltage on pin 1.
DeleteI changed the IC and it works perfectly now. The only thing that was still there was the background noise. Surprisingly it was the LED which was a rainbow one. The background noise was the changing from one colour to the next one...
DeleteAah, yes the LFOs in those LEDs are well known for being noisy and so not recommended in an audio circuit. Glad you got it going.
DeleteThank you so much for your help and all the great layouts! I'm enjoying them a lot :)
DeleteStruggling to get a hold of Rev Log pots. Can I just use Lin if I don't mind the "sweep" being different?
ReplyDeleteNevermind. Found some. :D
Deletehttp://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/260944290247
DeleteHi,
ReplyDeletePerhaps a silly question since I am rather new to electronics, but can I use a spdt switch for the script instead?
Yes you could, just use the middle lug and one of the other lugs, only single throw is required though. Although you do see more SPDT toggles and so you could probably get those cheaper even with the extra throw.
DeleteThank you very much. The site I purchase from has pretty much anything (http://www.newtone-online.nl/catalog/) but spst toggleswitches aren't in their arsenal.
DeleteMay I just say that I love what you do here and I am glad I found this place early on in my new found addiction. You'll probably keep me busy for many moons to come. Thank you for your amazing work :)
Just finished building, and mine sounds fine, but the level is a hair low. It doesn't sound as if anything is wrong with it, just a slightly diminished output. The phase effect is working great. Is this typical of this pedal, or might there be something slightly off in my build?
ReplyDeleteverified, great sound. I've build with 2N5457 and 2N5087 . I noticed only one problem - I dont hear any differences when I use switch. I've build phase 45 previously,but this one sounds much better for me. 45 has only one great setting - max pot - vibrato
ReplyDeleteIs it possible to build phase 90 and get the vibrato from 45? It would be the best phaser on the world :)
IvIark hello, I'm very interressado to mount the pedal, I would like to know if you already fixed the defect in the layout mentioned by Manuel May 28, 2014 16:46?
ReplyDeleteYes I always do corrections as soon as I see them
Deletefired at once!great pedal!i've used 4x2n5458 and a 2n3906 as javi mentioned.
ReplyDeletegreat effect. it's really good to build and have one...
i haven't played with a phaser since 2003 when i through my zoom707II out of my life... FOR EVER...
thanks Mark!
Hey guys do you think a 2n5245 could work? I wasn't able to find any 2n5952
ReplyDeleteHey Mark, can you tell me which schematic you used? I've checked several ones, and none fits this layout. The most similar is the GGG, but the trimmer and pot sections doesn't fit either.
ReplyDeleteJ.
OH, I see is the tonepad one, sorry :P
Deletehow much of a difference is there from the other ones?
DeleteIn the LFO and bias trimmer, there are many differences. I'd say that every schematic is different :)
DeleteThree hours deguggin when the problem was clearly isolated :P Plugged, battery on.... and a low and distorted output, nothing even similar to you would expect.
ReplyDeleteQuick voltage measurement:
ic 1
8,22
8,22
0,77
0
4.95
4.40 -5.40
1,50-8
8.94
So something's wrong on IC1a side, anyway, I probe it: sound gets distorted on the very IC1a output. Just 5 components to check... eveything seems ok, cannot find the problem: I measure the rest of ic's and trannies, with really strange measurements.
I started to check ALL the fucking layout, cannot find a bridge, or a cold solder, everything seems OK, I swap ic's with 4558 ones, swap the 2n3906.... nothing.
Three hours debuggin and can't find anything wrong.... but the signal still gets distorted and with low output, at the IC1a output... I'm stupid? Yes! 470k resistor from Ic1 3 to trimpot and so on, was not soldered at the ic side :P And knowing where the probem is, was unable to see it for 3 hours XDDDDDD
By the way, I used 4x BF245B that I had in a bag, in order not to risk my 2N5452 quad... and holy shit, the phaser sounds really great wit the BF! I've not measured / selected them, so I don't think that 4 trannies you get from the bag are even remotelly matched..... but sound great! Not sure still if should i use the quad, or stay with the BF's
J.
Haha see it can happen to anyone! :o)
DeleteHi there! I just build this one! :) But it sounds like a ambulance siren.... Can anyone tell why?
ReplyDeletewell, I'm with the flu and I can not work, and I remembered the matched JFETs that pedi month, I spent a long time waiting for this project and it started on the first try and it sounds incredible, Realise the first design, I'll do the other controlled deep. one more time thank you very much for making this possible
ReplyDeleteGreetings
Thanks for the layout! I built this, but it sounds bland. It isn't getting the full deep sweeping sound, just a mild one. Is there anything I might do to get the full-on phasing sound? Can you help me find whatever the problem is and fix it?
ReplyDeleteDid you use matched JFETs ?
ReplyDeleteYes, I bought a set from general guitar gadgets.
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteive built this without the depth control, sounds great!!!
ReplyDeleteim just curious, because there are 6 ICs in the script, reissue and latest version of phase 90... could this be just a buffer?
http://s196.photobucket.com/user/wahwahwells/media/IMG_0559.jpg.html
The photo shows six 741s, and the layout here has three dual opamps. The number of effective opamp channels is the same.
Delete+m
The UA741 is a single channel op amp. Mark drew this using the TL072 dual channel op amp to keep the size down. It makes no difference to the sound.
Deletemirosol and ciaran... thanks for the info...
ReplyDeleteim actually a newbie... i just follow whatever is drawn to this blog... still learning though,.. thanks for the help!...
just wanna share my build :D im so happy with this and i will definitely use this for my gigs
ReplyDeletecredits to the maker of tagboardeffects.blogspot.com, IvIark and mirosol!!!
-vahnrondel from philippines
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dpePntGB75Q
Would matched J201s be ok with this build? Would I need to somehow compensate for the additional gain the J201s have over 2N5457s?
ReplyDeleteHi, well I finished my phaser 90 works well, only prob I have discovered, its noisy when I use a power supply, quiet when I use a batt., Same power supply used for all my pedals, all seem to be fine, So, any one have any ideas how to fix this, I was thinking to replace the 47uf electro cap with a 220uf , any thoughts on that , regards Peter
ReplyDeleteYes a bigger filter cap may help. Is it boxed yet? That always helps with noise too, and you could try a low value cap from input to ground as well, maybe around 100p
DeleteI just completed this recently and just discovered the same problem, a slight high pitched whistle. It doesn't do this on my other pedals, power supply is a good one, battery is fine. I tried changing filter cap to 220uf and also adding 100p cap from input to ground but no change. Any other suggestions?
DeleteTry adding another cap of a different material from 9V to GND. Something like a 100n ceramic or poly. I've found this helps sometimes.
DeleteThanks Ciaran Haslett for the suggestion. I inserted a 100N monolithic ceramic between 9V and GND on the board and it didn't make a difference. I might just make a whole new board and see if it goes away. It it does great, then I'll inspect the first one and see if I can weed out the problem. If it doesn't change then it might be related to the power supply. Apart from peter lewis and myself, it doesn't appear that anyone else has experienced this problem.
DeleteSo I fixed it and guess what, it was lead dressing issue. It didn't seem right that I should have this problem when using DC only and it's a great power supply. I pulled the guts out which seperated everything and presto, silence. I rushed this one and the DC socket was cramped against script switch, audio jacks and board which resulted in noise getting through. Anyway, it works great now and I learn again that you can always make the simplest mistakes.
Deletehi everybody,
ReplyDeletei've just finished my phaser ! Houaaaa what a super effect ! i love it, really warm effect !
When i've connected it, no work at the first time… when i've pot my finger on transitor, worked whith low noises… So, I welded it and work very good at first time !
Any idea about the the electric consummation in ma of this stompbox ?
Franck
Hi,
ReplyDeleteDo you think that this veroboard would fit in a 1590B enclosure? I would like to build a small phaser stompbox, but I prefer the phase 90 in comparison with the phase 45 :D
Thanks
I just figured I'd find out by myself by cutting a 21x23 veroboard and trying it in a 1590B enclosure. It fits exactly in, but I won't have enough room for a switch AND a battery :/
DeleteI usually use batteries for my pedals, so if you know a trick to spare space and get everything inside the box it would be more than appreciated!
Or else I'll just have to stick with a DC jack
Can I use 200K trimmer with this?
ReplyDeleteCould I put a pot in place if the 150k resistor between the collector and base of Q5 to get somewhat of a volume/gain control?
ReplyDeleteI just built this one and it works. But when the speed knob is on full it's not very fast at all. More like what a regular phase 90 sounds like when the knob is about centre. Any idea why this is?
ReplyDeleteI used a 500k rev log pot (c500k alpha).
check to make sure you have no bridges, and that the pot is wired correctly. there's definitely a build error. even if you don't see any bridges take and run a knife in the trackts to be sure. if that doesn't fix it, take some good pictures aof the top and bottom of the board and create a thread on the forum under the "open topics" section.
DeleteI'm 100% sure there's no bridges now. Still the same problem. Seems strange that the knob works.. but slower.
Deletedonde va pin 1 speed y pin 3 pot depth
ReplyDeletewhich will speed pin 1 and pin 3 pot depth
ReplyDeletenot sure about your question, but for the speed pot you will only use lug 2 and lug 3 (lug 1 is not used at all), and for the depth pot you will only use lug 1 and lug 2 (lug 3 is not used at all).
DeleteFinally ordered some 2N5457s and answered my own question. (from Feb 2015)
ReplyDeleteMuch, much better with the 5457s!
The matched J201s resulted in a weak, shallow effect. The matched 2N5457s produce a much more lush phaser.
BTW, the J201s had resulted in such a weak sound, I didn't even realize I had wired the depth control backwards! The depth control has come alive with the 5457s.
If you used J201s and are not thrilled with the sound, swap them for 5457s.
What does the script switch do???
ReplyDeleteScub that, I figured it out.
DeleteCan someone help me? I built it, and works right away, but no phasing at all. I triple-checked every component, and looked for bridges 100 times, so that should not be the issue. I matched the 2n5457 JFETs with the JFET matcher on this site, but also tried with several different ones (2n5457, bf245c, 2sk117, j113).
ReplyDeleteI checked on lower IC, and the 5,6,7 pins are oscillating the way it should.
Whatever I change on the pots or the trimmer, nothing really happens, I only hear the clear guitar sound (adds a bit of low end, and some clarity), with no phasing at all.
Can someone help me, where to look the error?
I built this a few weeks ago, and like you i had nothing but clean signal when i first fired it up. I found that the trimmer position was critical and quite sensitive, i'd start there. Once the trimmer was set right it worked fine. I also brought a matched quad set of 2N5952's from germany.
ReplyDeleteThanks for the reply, but with really slowly changing the trimmer, every setting gives me only the clean signal (maybe I hear just a tiny phasing effect, but I bearly hear it when I really listen).
DeleteI had the same issue: clean guitar - no effect.
ReplyDeleteI went through testing voltages and connections. Then I realized that the transistors (1-4) were in backward. The pinout on the 2n5457 causes it to have the flat side on the opposite side (facing left side). I thought I had checked but I must have looked at the wrong document. Now it is working beautifully.
If you are still having the problem double check your transistor placement.
Note: the Trimpot has a small window to work with. I turned up the speed to gauge the sweet spot.
This comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteI have great phasing but a 'tick' goes along with the rate setting. Any thoughts?
ReplyDeleteI am getting the tick as well, only when switched into Script mode. Has anyone tried switching ICs to TL022's to remove the tick?
DeleteHow's your wiring, do the wires from your switch run close to the board, crosstalk? In my Boss CE-2 whenever I moved the stereo module which had a JRC4558 dual op-amp near the LFO on the main board it picked up the sweeping from the TL022, very loud tick. Moved that daughterboard and silence. I'm not an expert though, I just try anything and everything.
DeleteDone mine, very nice tweakable Phase. Although...I can't say I hear a MAJOR difference between the two positions of the switch...just a little fatness in the script mode, but that's it.
ReplyDeleteAlso, it kind of depends on the place where the depth knob is.
But, it is great, so here is another clean build from me (HGE Contraptions)
Thank you Mark!
https://hgecontraptions.blogspot.ro/2016/12/mxr-phase-90-clone-with-added-depth-pot.html
Completed this just now, version with depth control exactly as per layout with the exception that I don't have 2n5952's on hand (just ordered a set from banzaimusic for backup) but I matched a set of 2N5485's (bought about 20 from Tayda) within 5 millivolt range and used them. I built R.G. Keens FET improved matcher (from this site, thanks!) and used 2N5485's as reccomended substitute by R.G. Keen. Bought 15uf cap from http://www.diyguitarpedals.com.au/shop/index.php this guy also sells low profile elec caps if you need them. Works mint, turned up speed to dial trimmer to that sweet spot. Beautiful phase, now it's on the frontline in my setup. Thanks for the layout Mark!
ReplyDeleteAs per above I completed this recently. I have since matched a quad of 2N5457's at 233, 235, 235 and 234 millivolts each. I replaced the 205485's I originally matched and wow the phase depth is extreme. I previously had the depth maxed out with the 2N5485's to come a close match to my Mooer Ninety Orange (phase 90 clone, quite nice). With the 2N5457's the phase shift is fantastic if not quite extreme. So extreme if I back the depth control right off it sits at the same level as my Ninety Orange maxxed out. I believe there is a useful mod to help me match these 2N5457's (adjust the phase shift), the 2N5485's are good but these sound better. Sounds awesome anyway, clearer than the Ninety Orange. Looking at R.G.Keen's tech page at the moment.
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteHi, all I her is a very low distorted signal. I checked everything a thousand times but I couldn´t find the mistake.
ReplyDeleteHere are the voltages from the IC´s
1
1. 8,63 V
2. 7,07 V
3. 2,81 V
4. 0 V
5. 9,40 V
6. 0,03 V
7. 4,31 V
8. 2,80 V
2
1. 8,77 V
2. 5,1 V
3. 2,80 V
4. 0 V
5. 9,53 V
6. 8,62 V
7. 4,31 V
8. 2,80 V
3
1. 1,488V
2. 1,488V
3. 0,95 V
4. 0 V
5. 9,54V
6. 1,42 V
7. 1,257 V
8. 0,884 V
2N5952 (from left 1)
D: 0,284 V
S: 0,282 V
G: 0,4 V
2N5952 (from left 2)
D: 0,284 V
S: 0,282 V
G: 0,4 V
2N5952 (from left 3)
D: 0,284 V
S: 0,282 V
G: 0,4 V
2N5952 (from left 4)
D: 0,284 V
S: 0,282 V
G: 0,5 V
2N4125
C: 1,031 V
B: 3,68 V
E: 32,82 V
Do you have any suggestion where I should look at?
Thnaks
Recently I completed this layout and had issues with noise (which feature in earlier comments) which after some investigating it came down to the way it was boxed up and daisy chain cable I was using: circuit has now been re-boxed and mentioned cable eliminated, problem solved. Phaser completed as per layout with matched set of 2N5952's from Banzai Music, sounds as good as it should, excellent. Never experienced the tick in this build. I have matched my own 2N5485's and 2N5457's which I will use in subsequent builds. I have incorporated a RATE LED circuit which pulses with phasing. After some searching I tested 2 methods. First method was simply connecting your LED cathode to well, ground, and anode with a 3K current limiting resistor to IC3 pin 7 or SPEED 3 as per layout. Works fine, doesn't affect operation of the phaser although the LED simply flashes ON or OFF rather than pulse/fade. I ran across a proposed circuit tested by a fella on DIY.stompboxes.com which was originally implemented in an unrelated device which should provide more of a pulse/fade effect. I designed a little layout based on the schematic and tested it. Works really well, doesn't affect operation and actually has more of pulse/fade rather than simply ON/OFF. It is now integrated with the ON/OFF LED so it functions only when switched on. Alternatively you could have both ON/OFF LED and RATE LED. I'm not really a whizz with this stuff and I couldn't tell you exactly how this circuit works yet, it maybe tweakable for your own purposes. I hadn't come across this before so I thought I'd share it for those that find it useful, forgive me if this is old news to anyone! Links to pictures of my build (note the LED circuit top-right above switch) and to a vero layout of Rate LED circuit. I can finally kick my Mooer Ninety Orange off the board!
ReplyDeleteMy clone: https://www.dropbox.com/s/q9kfrx0wuqa0e4j/MXR%20Phase%2090.JPG?dl=0
Gutshot: https://www.dropbox.com/s/533qzxfz3shneam/MXR%20Phase%2090%20-%20gutshot.JPG?dl=0
Rate LED layout: https://www.dropbox.com/s/6ify328o8pe513o/RATE%20LED%20Circuit%20-%20Phase%2090.png?dl=0
This is where I obtained the info regarding the RATE LED: http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=38259.0
DeleteI spoke to Larry from www.DIYstompboxes.com who provided the information above about the LED driver. He provided me with a copy of the circuit (no longer available on DIYstompboxes.com) on which the idea was based to share. Thanks Larry. Here is the link: https://www.dropbox.com/s/hcacric1thbujbw/Panning%20Rate%20LED%20Drivers.jpg?dl=0
DeleteHi, Chance.
DeleteYou built the Phase 90 long time ago, but I would like to ask you something.
I can see in the gutshot of your Phase 90 two socket pins (in the left-bottom corner, input and ground I think).
What did you try to socket?
Thanks!
Hi , is the SPST switch for the Phase 90 script mod a (On-off-on)
ReplyDeleteIt described here as a SPST (single-pole, single-throw) and yes you could use a on-off-on but that would give you one extra position with no use. On-off-on means there are three positions on the switch.
DeleteI am gathering stuff for my own build and I will use a SPDT toggle which is on-on and then simply not solder anything to one of the end poles.
Hi fellow builders , I don't know what to do about the 15uf Capacitor. If I use a 10uf is this to low .
ReplyDelete22µ. That could be better.
Delete+m
Normally I would have suggested placing a 4u7 parallel to the 10u but it's a bit tight for space there.
DeleteHowever, It looks like there is enough room to place two 33uf in series. That in theory would get you 16.5uf. In reality, probably close the 15uf.
Just solder the + from one 33u to the - of the other 33u and trim that soldered joint close. I would bend the joint off the the side before soldering and trimming. Then treat the outer 2 legs as a single capacitor.
Should get you close to the 15u.
Or use a 22u as mirosol suggested.
This comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteI know this is an old post, but I had a question:
ReplyDeleteThe original circuit for this pedal uses 2 diodes, why does yours only use 1?
This might help https://www.electrosmash.com/mxr-phase90
ReplyDeleteThe additional 1n4148 is reverse ploarity protection, i'm not sure if it is needed or not
ReplyDeleteHey, guys! I finished my circuit here (the modified version) and tried it with my bass and my guitar but it's not working: it only makes a distorted sound when a strum the strings really hard... I tried to resolder some components, used a little knife between all the copper strips to make sure there are no unwanted bridges between them and checked the transistors orientation (they are soldered in the opposite direction from the schematics because they are F410D instead of the 2N5952) and also tried it without any offboard wiring, connecting the tips of the depth 1/depth 2, speed 2/speed3 and switch1/switch2 wires together (they would be connected if the pots were turned all the way up and the switch was on, right?) but nothing seems to work!
ReplyDeleteCan any of you please help me?
I have created this blog to post some pictures of the circuit if you guys think it can help...
https://blogintil.blogspot.com.br
Thank you a lot for your help!
Great phaser! I had problem with LFO tick in "normal mode" (22k in feedback circuit). In Script Mode no LFO tick. I used tip of Mark Hammer on diystompboxes forum that creating current reservoir might solve the problem. So I removed link between 9V and pin8 of last IC (the lowest one on the layout). I connected 9V to pin 8 of this IC via 100R resistor and at the end I installed 22uF cap between pin8 of this IC (+) and ground (-). Ticking has been completely removed.
ReplyDeleteFor FET I used J201 (1,55; 1,6; 1,61; 1,61 VgsOff) and it works really well. Much better in my opinion than Small Stone.
Not to be rude but that is just a high pass power filter...
DeleteNot to be rude, but it's a low pass power filter...
DeleteI am having the same issues as some of the other guys. No matter what I do, I just have a clean signal out of the pedal. I've triple checked my transistor placement, messed around with the trim pot and purchased a matched set from Guitar PCB. Not sure where to go from here.
ReplyDeleteFirst post on this forum, before anything else I just wanted to thank all of you for this amazing site and community. Already built a few pedals so far and totally lovin the results!
ReplyDeleteSo I had an interesting issue with this one. I built the basic version with no depth and it went off without a hitch right away. I used a 2n3906 and matched BF245Cs for the transistors, I feel like the 245s give a slightly grittier sound but I totally dig it. If anything the effect was a bit too strong for my tastes so I thought why not go for the modded version with depth? Only a resistor swap, extra cut, and the pot.
Oddly the effect was completely gone. Went through everything a few times and ended up breaking my cheap trimpot in the process. Decided to revert back to the original deign and swapped the trimpot. Now it has a slightly different tone then before, could be the trimpot or something else, but it still sounds great to me, even if still slightly strong.
At this point I'm convinced that even resoldering certain joints can give a slightly different tone, because I really can't explain why it sounds different now. Perhaps I need to go to bed :)
But I think the moral of tonight is that if you like the sound, keep it. I didn't think the tone it originally had was better, I just couldn't figure out why it sounds different now. But it still sounds great so I'm going box it tomorrow and play the hell out of it :)
Cheers
hi, thanks for this layout. One question...
ReplyDeletefor what is the Script Switch?
I should use the script switch and the 3pdt?
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ReplyDeleteHello everyone,
ReplyDeleteNovice question, how to match fet, what are the criteria to take into consideration?
what should we measure and match?
Hi all. I'm troubleshooting a build using this layout. Volume was too low where you'd have to turn the amp volume to almost full to hear a sound that has also no phase effect. I'm not good with tracing using audio probe and was wondering what part to start and w/c ones are the next up until the output?
ReplyDeleteThanks in advance. :)
Hi, i’m Recently finishing my phase pedal and sounds great, the only problem is when I press de on and off switch and the scrip sw it makes a noing click sound. There is any solution?.,,,,
ReplyDeleteRegards
Gabriel
Built one of these just now, and I get a very weak phasing effect, and depending on where the trimmer is set to I can get a little more phasing at the expense of excessive distortion. Jfets are 2N5457, are matched, plus I tried a second set of Jfets and a set of MPF102's (that don't do anything really). Previously had problems with a couple of my cuts not being fully cut, but I've gone over it again and checked for no continuity across each break and no shorts from strip to strip. Any other thoughts?
ReplyDeleteVoltages:
Top IC:
5-5.2 9.32
5-5.2 5-5.3
5-5.2 5-5.2
0.00 5-5.2
Middle IC:
5-5.4 9.32
5-5.2 5-5.1
5-5.2 5-5.2
0.00 5-5.2
Bottom IC:
5.02 9.32
5.02 1.3-8.0
4.77 4.2-5.6
0.00 4.0-5.8
Fets:
Drain 5.0v
Source 5.0v
Gate 4.1-4.4 oscillating
BJT
Emitter 0.81
Base 3.00
Collector 5.03
I think everything "looks" ok, but hard to say.
PS: I matched the fets on one of those Amazon transistor testers, then built the stripboard fet matcher and double checked.
DeleteFixed it. Missed a cut. Doesn't have nearly the headroom of the Small Stone I just built, but it sounds good. Distorts with strong humbuckers though.
DeleteSo, adding to my previous post, it took a lot to get this one working for me. I tried using a nearly matched quad of 2N5457's (Vgs measured between 0.388 and 0.391 volts, so pretty close) and while it gave me a nice deep effect, the sweep length was crazy large - from ~100hz to 15khz (measured on a spectrum analyzer), where Phase 90's are usually around 100hz-1khz, plus the pedal distorted pretty badly. Every set of 5457's I tried were about the same. I eventually found on another site that it's best to get fets with Vgs over 2 volts, so I subbed in a set of J211's (that weren't even perfectly matched - 2.962-2.998), which brought the sweep to a normal range AND reduced the distortion. So if you build this, don't feel like you absolutely need 2N5952's, just make sure you have reasonably well matched fets with Vgs over 2 volts.
ReplyDeleteI created the GGG mxr phaser phase 90. When I set the trimpot stage, I set the sweetest point to the more prominent phase point, but I get a distorted sound scratching distortion sound how can I get rid of this situation I want to get a clean phaser
ReplyDeleteI created the GGG mxr phaser phase 90. When I set the trimpot stage, I set the sweetest point to the more prominent phase point, but I get a distorted sound scratching distortion sound how can I get rid of this situation I want to get a clean phaser
ReplyDeleteI used j113 and 2n5457 fets but the problem didn't go away
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ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteHi, I have seem a schematic using a 100k lineal instead rev C500K, does somebody knows if this linear pot works properly this way?, Rev Log Pots are almost imposible to get where I live.
ReplyDeleteI think to use 100K there must be other component changes too, almost certainly changes to the resistor values at Depth 1 and Speed 2. Personally if I was struggling to get reverse log pots I'd just use linear and live with the more sensitive controls.
DeleteMine works properly with 2n5485 trans,, tlo72 chips and there goes the sweet sound of mxr phase 90. Regards fr Philippines. Jun.
ReplyDeleteDid you make the modded version, or standard?
DeleteThe standard version
DeleteI tried 2n5457 before but it didnt work. So 2n 5485 fill the gap and it works. Jun.
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ReplyDeleteHello,
ReplyDeleteIf I wanted to build w/o switch, and make it a stock script, do I just omit the switch? I'd like to make a P90 based "vibe"
Thanks!
to make it a stock script you would just omit the switch and the 22k resistor.
DeleteAnyone making this on the 5.1v zener be sure and get a 500mW not the 1W type. You want the 1n5231 not the 4733. The 4733 you actually end up closer to 3.5v for your vref, sounds much better with the 5231. Also try a 3.3M instead of the 3.9 for a wider sweep.
ReplyDeleteHi everyone!
ReplyDeleteI have a MXR/Dunlop Phase 100 pedal (built in 1997) which is making a siren sound periodically as others have reported in this thread. This siren sound occurs with no instrument input, also when injecting a sine wave as an input, also with an instrument input. It occurs sometimes for a few seconds, other times several minutes -- but usually stops eventually. Sometimes it happens when the pedal first turns on, other times the pedal has to be one for minutes or hours before the siren sound starts. The pedal works fine otherwise.
I have not been able to find an accurate schematic for this MXR Phase 100 pedal built in 1997. My board has TI TL062CP opamps and VTL5C3/2 photocouplers. I see the siren sound waveform show up in both - and + inputs of one of the op amp stages, and then it flows through the rest of the circuit (but am not sure which op amp is for what part of the circuit exactly since I don't have a schematic). Based on that it looks like the op amps are fine. I also see the signal on both the input and output of each of the 3 photocouplers -- so don't think they are the issue either.
Any ideas of what to try based on similar "siren" sounds from other phaser pedals?
This comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteDid anyone have the LFO tick on the Script setting and was able to resolve it? I have it boxed up and it is still and issue with the depth pot above being nearly fully CCW.
ReplyDeleteHow can I include the mod for phase 45 in this diagram with switch script?
ReplyDeleteHi all. I've just completed this and gotta say I'm so stoked I have to write it up. I've got it sounding equal to if not better than my original. If you can play around with the bias for the phasing enough you can carefully pick different variances of the sweet spot, I found anyway brighter to darker ( possibly more slightly out of phase) worth the time to find the perfect spot its touchy. This ones singing. I've used matched 2n5457's and 2n4125 from Tayda. Matching was done with both the jfet analyzer Mark has kindly made available here and with my cheap $15 aliexpress TC1 transistor tester . Both readings showed matching. The cheap testers worked for me matching before. I've added a volume control to the output and included the pulsing LED setup suggested by Chance earlier in this thread ( works a treat )Ive put it through a switch so you can choose to have the extra pulsing light or not. Squeeeeezed it all in a 1590b with shielding everywhere I thought it needed it inside the box. and it works soo well. I've made a few pedals now and this is a no brainer keeper. Love it. I tried a few other matched sets in it once I had it working. I bought 100 J201's off Aliexpress ages ago from annueochip ( something like that) thought theyd be crap before i even got them and lo and behold they all tested in range and I got multiple matched sets out of the 100. Used in a few pedals now alllgood. These worked in this pedal, also had some J113's matched- worked. I had to adjust the bias a bit differently for each. I also have some smd j202's that i havent "adapted" yet but I believe they work to. No squeals, squeaks or ticks. Build it carefully and it works beautifully. Thank you Mark. and every contributor here. Yous guys are awesome.
ReplyDeleteA request if any of you reads this - a super rat- similair to beavis audio FKR MKii- looks like you get every rat in 1 - challenge ?