The wiring for each toggle is shown on the layout, and the offboard is essentially like a true bypass looper with the signal going from the stomp switch to the first effects toggle, with the toggle send and return going to the effects inputs and outputs shown on the board. It should be pretty straight forward with one toggle going to the next and then ultimately back to the stomp switch.
I think the order Martin has the effects is Rangemaster (R), Mosfet (M), Opamp (O) and JFET (J).
Info about his original.
This is an exciting 4-in-one boost that gives you a choice of four distinct flavors of boost to suit any occasion or style. Pushbutton switches allow you to choose any combination of the four, which allows for many “stacked” sounds that result in a diverse range of overdrive, distortion, and fuzz tones. This is where it truly stands apart from other boosts… it’s like a dozen pedals in one!
The boosts are as follows:
R – Rangemaster – a modern recreation of the classic Rangemaster treble boost. I have painstakingly replicated the signature vowel-peak slightly dirty boost using modern components for lower noise and higher consistency and reliability.
M – MOSFET – my version of a popular boost known for its super hard sound. Not a simple copy, I’ve redesigned the circuit to feature my noise free “non-crackling” gain control and use a lower-noise transistor. The tone is clear and clean at low gain, and loud and fat when turned up.
O – Opamp – an original design boost circuit using an opamp. Designed to sound neutral and clean at low gain, but becomes a hot overdrive when turned up. Can be used as a high-quality buffer at minimum gain.
J – JFET – this is a hot boost based on the SRPP topology and utilizing Toshiba 2SK117 JFETs. The sound is an intense boost with a slightly lean low-end. When overdriven by the other boosts, it has a very tube-like character that makes it ideal in the last position.
Original version with Crackle Not OK instead of the SHO circuit.
And just to make the offboard wiring a bit simpler:
Never heard of this before.. This looks way too fun
ReplyDeleteI agree, this is definitely going on the list of things I need to build soon. Looks like 741 or TL071 could be subbed in for the LF411 I believe (although do your own research to confirm until I verify... I'm not a smart man...).
ReplyDeleteYes most of our usual single channel opamps should do the trick
DeleteDefinitely going on the list. Sweet!
ReplyDeleteOh my goodness!! Still got some NKT275:s left. This one is up on the list.
ReplyDeleteLooks very interesting !
ReplyDeleteJust to be sure about the DPDT wiring :
In and out to each boost in & out, send to input jack / previous switch and return to next switch or output jack ?
No I did it the other way around so it matched up with a true bypass looper so that people could relate to it that way.
DeleteStomp switch >
First toggle:
In > Send > R Input (vero) > R Output (vero) > Return > Out
Second toggle:
In > Send > M Input (vero) > M Output (vero) > Return > Out
Third toggle:
In > Send > O Input (vero) > O Output (vero) > Return > Out
Fourth toggle:
In > Send > J Input (vero) > J Volume 2 > Return > Out
> Stomp switch
I may have made it more confusing but it seemed to make more sense to me like that.
Ok, thanks !
DeleteSo each circuit has its own input and output jack? I would prefer to just wire each circuit "true bypass" with DPDT toggles with one master bypass switch
ReplyDeleteNo, the output of one toggle goes into the input of the next. So one input and output socket which wire as usual to the stomp, and then a chain of 4 toggles from the stomp that can true bypass each effect in turn.
DeleteOk ok, that's what I was thinking, even your explanation confused me. I'm on break at work though so I'm not thinking too hard
ReplyDeleteCheck out the offboard wiring overview I've added to the main post ^
DeleteThat's just what I was thinking, but you improved it by adding input grounding. Awesome.
DeleteYou're the best, Mark have a nice Valentines Day
Yes I think I'd always do true bypass switching with that same method now whether it be stomps or toggles. It just makes sense to use any method that helps to keep noise at bay.
DeleteHey Mark,
ReplyDeleteIs there a way to have the "Crackle Not Allowed version of it"?
Is just that a simple mod or do that implies big changes in the veroboard?
Thanks!, amazing stuff!
I'll see if I can fit it in the same gap
DeleteOriginal version added
DeleteThanks Mark!, you are the best!
DeleteOops, noticed I have the J Volume 3 wire one row too high, it needs to drop a row. Layout updated.
ReplyDeleteSoulsonic's website says that they are "now using 2SK880! WAY BETTER!" Is this a direct substitution for the 117, or would other changes be needed?
ReplyDeleteI’m new to this forum, but I definitely want to try this one out. Which one is better? The SHO or “Crackle Not” version? Are there schematics available for both? I like to see what I’m building. Keep up the great work. I’ve already set aside parts for two other layouts of yours!
ReplyDeleteI think there should be a cut to isolate pin 5 of IC2 from pin 4 of IC1, with a link from that pin to ground. It's now working perfectly, many thanks.
ReplyDeleteNo that cut shouldn't be there, pin 4 of IC is being fed -9V by pin 5 of IC2. But I can see what the problem is though. There should be a 1M resistor from pin 3 of IC1 to ground so I'll have to wriggle things about a bit to add it.
DeleteHow you have described it would work as well, but you'll have more headroom if you do it as per the updated layout that will appear soon :o)
That's great, thanks. I'll look forward to the updated layout.
DeleteIt might be a bit of a pain to move things about when you've already built the main circuit, so if I was you I'd solder a 1M resistor between pin 3 of IC1 and ground on the back of the board just to save you messing about too much. You should be able to do that quite easily by just attaching to existing solder points.
DeleteLayouts are now updated.
Thanks - I reversed the changes that I made earlier and added the resistor as above. As you suggested it is working better with the resistor than with the cut and link I made earlier.
DeleteExcellent, so are the other 3 sections working ok as well then, can it be tagged?
DeleteYes, all the sections are working - so it can be tagged.
DeleteExcellent, nice one matey!
DeleteThanks, it's been great to be able to build effects from the layouts here and I really appreciate the work that goes into them.
ReplyDeleteHi, could you tell me what the Diode with 9V1 is please?
ReplyDeleteI can't work it out with my baby brain
It's a 9.1v zener diode
DeleteWhat could be used instead of the S2K117s?
ReplyDelete2SK170 is very similar and I think you can still get both from Futurlec. Otherwise try any JFET but you may have to twist pins over to match the orientation. It's probably a good idea to socket them
DeleteSettled on 2N5952s for the JFETS, has to twist the pins on them. Stuck this in a box with 2 buffers and 3 loops for a nice utility peal. Thanks again Mark.
DeleteManaged to squeeze this in a 1590b. I think this is my 5th vero build (not counting my box of absolute fail) and it worked in one go :o)
ReplyDeleteMight try some different transistors for the Rangemaster. Anyway, thanks for all the great work |\/|ark!
Should you want it, here's a gut shot for your collection: https://www.flickr.com/photos/dannyvandam/14129477205/in/set-72157642356692863/
Great job Danny thanks for sharing, but I couldn't save it :o( Could you email it to me at guitarfx at hotmail.co.uk. You also officially have the blog's coolest name :o)
DeleteI'm having trouble with this one. Built it according to the standard SHO layout above, but the only effect that works is the op-amp-based effect, and it doesn't work very well at all. I get sound, but it is super compressed and faint. The effect LED goes out altogether when the R, M, and J effects are on, unless the O effect is on, too. That has to be a short on the board. I have knifed between all the rows and cleaned out my cuts really well.
ReplyDeleteI substituted a MAX1044 as the voltage converter, 2N5457s with the leads bent in the J effect, an OC44 for the R, and an LF356 for the op-amp. All my ICs, semiconductors, and caps are oriented correctly. All my off-board wiring is correct. I verified all resistor and cap values. None of my transistor leads are touching somewhere they shouldn't be.
You need to post all the transistor and IC voltages to see if that gives us any clues
DeleteWith O active (with or without any other effect), using a battery with 8.3V, I have as follows:
DeleteMAX1044, pins 1-8: 8.3; 4.21; 0; -3.93; -8.03; 4.4; 3.87; and 8.27.
LF356, pins 1-8: 0; 0; 0; -8.05; 0; 0; 8.32; and 014.
Q1, EBC: -0.68; -0.74; -6.13.
Q2, DGS: 4.48; 0.65; 0.39.
Q3, DGS: 4.6, 0.34, 1.0.
Q4, DGS: 8.26, 2.78, 4.82.
With O inactive (with or without any other effect active), the LED turns off, all voltages change to 0, and the battery starts getting hot. I've paid particular attention to Row 7, as all effects but O are connected to it. I resoldered it twice now, and made sure that there are no microscopic bridges. I can't think of any other causes but a short somewhere on that row.
I had a bad 4u7 cap. It's awesome now!
DeleteI built this and everything appears to be working. With my single coil pickups I’m having to turn up the knobs high to get the overdrive sounds that I’ve heard on the sound samples to the point that the volume level is much higher than the straight signal. (Actually each one of the four effects boosts the signal above the straight signal even at the lower settings.) Has anyone else had the same problem? I’m thinking of putting an attenuation circuit at the end of the signal chain to rebalance the signal level. Great sounds!
DeleteHaré este proyecto entonces ya que stratman66 dice que le funciono..... espero terminarlo pronto
ReplyDeleteI will make this project so as stratman66 says he worked ..... I hope to finish soon
Hello, I want to make this effect but having trouble understanding the wiring. I know it was discussed earlier. I still don't get it. Not the smartest tool in the shed. To be clear is the send and return off board the input/output of each circuit on board? Thnx!
ReplyDelete