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Friday 18 October 2013

ZVex Distortron



Don't bother asking for a schematic. One doesn't exist. This layout is based on FSB thread on the subject....  (yes, you'll need to log in to see it)
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The thread at FSB got wind under its wings after this layout, so the questionable values are finally confirmed. Here's the final layout with updated values (56n -> 22n and 10n -> 100n).


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58 comments:

  1. IvIark18 October 2013 at 19:23

    I like it, nice one matey!

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    Replies
    1. mirosol18 October 2013 at 20:29

      Thanks.

      Probably could have been more compact, but with 3 pots and 2 switches the B box will the size. And this is quite comfortable fit...

      Should probably post it to FSB in case this would spring up the real values for the subs switch.
      +m

      Delete
  2. Adrian_Pavon18 October 2013 at 19:35

    Nice, so, this woud be like the distortion part of the Box of of rock?

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    1. mirosol18 October 2013 at 20:23

      1:1 with added switches for more gain and thinner low frequencies. With gain switch "off" and subs switch at "3", it should be exactly the dirt side of BOR.
      +m

      Delete
  3. onthetundra18 October 2013 at 21:31

    How about a Box of Rock with the switches?

    ReplyDelete
  4. Travis18 October 2013 at 22:07

    I would love to see a BoR with the switch options as well!

    Or would it be as simple as adding a Super Hard On?

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    Replies
    1. Guilherme19 October 2013 at 00:37

      Yep, just add a Super Hard On after it, and you got a BoR with the switch options

      Delete
  5. Anonymous18 October 2013 at 22:10

    Hi,
    my first comment on your blog, so first of all: Thanks for all this work you put in here, already took lots of inspiration!

    Here's something about the tone stack I found at a German forum (musikding). One guy wasn't happy about the sub switches either (his source too was fsb). So, he started experimenting with the 470k resistor and 470pf capacitor. (there's only one of each, you find them in the middle of the vero).

    They couple the first and second gain stage, if you have a look at the BOR schematic, but I'm not a 100% sure about what the resistor does actually, as I'm still learning.

    Anyway, here's the guy's results: (I translated it, hope you get it)

    - value higher than 470k makes it less "muddy"
    - increased 470p to 1n to not loose too much of deeper mids
    - experimented with other values, got lot of different sounds out of it:

    0k - comes closer to a fuzz, just a little more dynamic: sounds a lot like "queens of the stone age"
    (I've only tried this mod so far, but I really like it. Problem is that you can't hear chords really, it's just a lot of mud- which I like personally ;) Single notes are nice, though.)

    200k - sounds like a Marshall with it's output stage distorting; fat sound, muddy when cranked which is actually close to the original

    750k - sounds tight; if you change 470p to 1n it's starting to sound pretty modern

    1M - less "meaty/oomph" at low gain, but stays clear even with hi-gain switch engaged

    Cheers,
    Georg

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    Replies
    1. mirosol19 October 2013 at 06:25

      Thanks for this info. One could replace the 470K with a 1M lin pot :) Did he have any input on the subs switchx values?

      According to some rumours, Zach has stated that it is 1:1 with BOR with those settings...
      +m

      Delete
    2. Unknown19 October 2013 at 14:53

      I would love to see a layout with these options as switchable. I *think* a on off on could do it. Am I right?

      Delete
    3. Unknown19 October 2013 at 14:54

      For 3 options that is...

      Delete
    4. Anonymous23 October 2013 at 23:50

      @mirosol: No, he didn't have more info on the sub switch values other than what people where talking about in the fsb-thread.

      I'm also thinking of making the 470k a 1M pot, but wouldn't it be better to place a logarithmic one there?

      Delete
    5. mirosol24 October 2013 at 06:46

      Why?
      +m

      Delete
    6. Dave24 October 2013 at 09:04

      If in doubt over taper, I'd always go linear first, then you can change if needed.
      Cheers
      Dave

      Delete
    7. Anonymous24 October 2013 at 23:43

      I'm still a newby, so actually I don't really know yet when to use what...
      Since it doesn't have anything to do with volume, I think linear is probably the way to go then. Thanks for the advice, Dave!

      Delete
  6. jeff20 October 2013 at 18:33

    FYI this is just like Madbean's old Boomstick project. Could get a schematic/info there

    ReplyDelete
  7. jeff20 October 2013 at 18:33

    FYI this is just like Madbean's old Boomstick project. Could get a schematic/info there

    ReplyDelete
  8. BuGG22 October 2013 at 01:44

    This comment has been removed by the author.

    ReplyDelete
  9. BuGG22 October 2013 at 01:46

    The Boomstick schematic doesn't use the 3-way Subs switch and has a (possibly) incorrect value for C7.

    This schematic should match the layout above. (modified from the Madbean schematic)
    http://i40.tinypic.com/kejina.png

    ReplyDelete
  10. Alessandro23 October 2013 at 19:00

    Hi, i want to build this Pedal, but can't find any 2nF cap on Tayda. is it possible to use a 2.2nF cap without any change in the result?
    Thanks

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    Replies
    1. Dave23 October 2013 at 19:26

      2.2 would be fine, I doubt you'd notice any difference.
      Cheers
      Dave

      Delete
    2. Alessandro23 October 2013 at 20:48

      many thanks!

      Delete
  11. Dave25 October 2013 at 16:23

    Built this, it's neat!

    I would describe the sound as a "cleaner" distortion compared to something like a Rat. Very crisp and bright.

    Tonnes of low end, even on the lowest sub switch setting.

    ReplyDelete
  12. nicolas.lesage5223 November 2013 at 13:05

    Does anyone know the differences between the Distortron and the Basstortion ?

    ReplyDelete
  13. SimonB23 December 2013 at 06:35

    Just finished this as my first pedal build (took a couple of attempts and a week of debugging), but it's finally done and working and it sounds really great! I'm getting a huge range of sounds from it, from subtle warming/thickening, through to overdrive, bluesy crunch, modern rock and really dirty grungy sounds. I probably could do with several on my pedal board to make use of all the options :)

    I included the mod someone here mentioned replacing the 470K resistor with a 1M pot, and that really allows a lot of extra tweaking.

    I think I'm hooked on the pedal building, got parts on the way to try several others designs from this site :)

    ReplyDelete
  14. Alessandro12 January 2014 at 23:02

    sorry the dumb question: which is the naming convention for the SPDT On-On wiring? Hi/Lo2 has to be connected at the center lug or at opposed of the 1? thanks

    ReplyDelete
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    1. SimonB15 January 2014 at 08:16

      Yes Hi/Lo2 would be connected to the center lug, and hi/lo 1 connect to one of the lugs next to it.

      Delete
  15. Unknown18 March 2014 at 22:39

    I was about to finish this project :) I have found out that Gain 1 connection is missing- Should it be connected to the input or the 1 and 2nd log of the Gain pot are connected together? Thanks

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    1. mirosol18 March 2014 at 22:49

      It's not connected. If you want, you can chain lug 2 with lug 1, but that won't affect the operation in any way.
      +m

      Delete
    2. Unknown18 March 2014 at 22:53

      Хвала!!!Thanks Miro!!!!

      Delete
    3. Unknown18 March 2014 at 23:06

      Works like a charm! It's too late in MKD to play loud and nice, soon I'll post pics;) Thanks a lot all of ya!

      Delete
  16. Unknown27 May 2014 at 00:22

    Hi, trying to make a Double Rock which I believe is two of these cascaded. However it doesn't have the hi/lo bit but has a switch to turn each one into an SHO. Any idea how to do this??

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    1. IvIark27 May 2014 at 00:29

      Q1 in this is basically a slightly modified Super Hard On so a switch that bypassed the rest of the circuit would do exactly what you describe. I'd at least want to see a high resolution gut shot before doing a layout though so I can see any other differences which Zack is bound to have made, I wouldn't ever want to guess at a layout without having something tangible to go off.

      Delete
    2. Unknown27 May 2014 at 20:21

      Cheers - I think you are right.

      Delete
  17. Unknown27 May 2014 at 00:35

    This comment has been removed by the author.

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  18. Unknown6 June 2014 at 03:37

    What mods are needed to make this a basstortion?

    ReplyDelete
  19. horseman8 July 2014 at 17:44

    My build is working otherwise perfectly, but the SUBS-switch isn´t doing anything... Any suggestions? By the way, this is one of the better sounding distortion-units.

    ReplyDelete
  20. johnk14 August 2014 at 15:15

    I just finished mine. I went with a vertical layout and did the 'crackle not okay' mod on mine, and it sounds awesome.

    pics:

    http://johnkvintageguitars.homestead.com/Effects/Fuzz-ODs/distortron-BOR/Distortron2-01.jpg

    http://johnkvintageguitars.homestead.com/Effects/Fuzz-ODs/distortron-BOR/Distortron2-02.jpg

    ReplyDelete
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    1. hitokirimnb14 August 2014 at 20:05

      John, where do you order your mini switches? They look nicer than the ones I've ordered from Tayda and other Ebay sellers.

      Delete
    2. johnk14 August 2014 at 20:22

      I get them from smallbear.

      Delete
    3. Harold3 January 2017 at 22:13

      > did the 'crackle not okay' mod on mine

      Did you replace the SHO in front of it with a "Crackle not ok" SHO?

      Delete
    4. giudis7 July 2017 at 09:43

      Hi John, could you explain what did you do in your layout to eliminate the crackle? Have you connect the input directly to gain1? and have you changed the gain pot value? thanks in advance, :D

      Delete
  21. Unknown13 March 2015 at 14:52

    I have build several Bor's and Distortrons but they all sound harsh to me. Earpearcing high frequenties when you build it as above or as in the schematic that's going round. Why is nobody complaining about this or are my ears high sensitive? Complete useless in this way, and it is not what I hear on You Tube. Maybe the schematic is not complete and there must be a cap of 470 pF between the drain and gate of the first gainstage mosfet. Try it and be suprised.

    ReplyDelete
  22. joeychickenskin13 March 2016 at 12:49

    Hi

    I'm a strat Fender Deluxe guy and needed to fake some Ramones songs for a covers night. I built this and it nails it.

    I just want to say I've been building pedals for a couple of years now and learned most of what I needed to know from here having started with a bitsbox Hearthrob kit.

    There's something relaxing about making pedals and it's great to have stompboxes that you couldn't otherwise afford but the opportunities to explore new guitar sounds is the real joy.

    Thank you once again!

    ReplyDelete
  23. Steven25 September 2016 at 00:30

    Just built this and ...HOLY CRAP... this thing has some balls! I love it.
    Only change I made was subbing a 10K Rev Log for the gain as I found that, even on the LO gain setting, the bigger pot gave me more control range. At the bottom (10K) I can get a nice crunch, while the top (0K) is super thick fuzz-like.

    I love this one.

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    1. Steven25 September 2016 at 00:31

      Edit: the 10K gave me crunch to fuzz on the "HI" gain setting...

      Delete
  24. Unknown7 July 2017 at 01:51

    hey! i'm looking to build a BoR/distortron, but i'm struggling to source a c5k pot. would a b5k pot be a fair replacement for it?

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    1. mirosol7 July 2017 at 06:38

      Sweep will work, but won't be as usable as with C-taper.

      http://www.geofex.com/Article_Folders/potsecrets/potscret.htm
      So normally B10K + 10K resistor would do the job. However. Altering the taper for a pot that's wired as a rheostat isn't as simple.

      Anyway. Why don't you check tayda for C5K pot?
      http://www.taydaelectronics.com/potentiometer-variable-resistors/rotary-potentiometer/anti-log-reverse/5k-ohm-c5k-5kc-anti-log-taper-potentiometer.html
      +m

      Delete
  25. Unknown5 March 2018 at 07:46

    This comment has been removed by the author.

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    1. Unknown5 March 2018 at 07:50

      This comment has been removed by the author.

      Delete
    2. Unknown5 March 2018 at 08:26

      This comment has been removed by the author.

      Delete
  26. Esppse29 April 2018 at 09:57

    I am also getting high squealing like one of the posters above, does anyone know how to rectify this? I did exactly as shown on the layout.

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    1. Justin26 September 2018 at 21:32

      Did you ever find a solve for the high squealing?

      Delete
  27. ISPITNAPALM9 December 2018 at 21:44

    Did someone change the layout?? Ive built this and its just a low noise signal generator.. sounds like there is voltage on the signal..

    And Ive built A LOT of pedals so its not my first one ...

    I checked traces, values, jumpers, EVERYTHING!

    Funny thing is that i can modify the noise with all the knobs and switches like its supposed to be.
    When i plug out the input from my test box, the noise remains..
    There has to me a major mistake somewhere!! Damn... i even triple checked everything with photoshop, marking all the components and cuts..
    :( i am really frustrated!

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  28. Paul_518 January 2019 at 10:13

    Mine sounds great, but can’t achieve even unity output, even with everything maxed out. Will post voltages late on.

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  29. jon q12 September 2019 at 21:28

    I just built one, this thing sounds amazing... and it's LOUD. I need to keep the level at about 9:00. It's got a really satisfying feel, cleans up great and I now wonder how I went this long without one. I recently had a Smallsound Bigsound Fuck Overdrive on my board, but this sounded so sweet I had to remove it.

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  30. Alamondm8 August 2020 at 14:54

    What would one need to do to make this more like the Basstortion. It doesn’t sound bad on bass but I am curious. Still in the learning process.

    ReplyDelete