Original design by Dan Green from Commonsound and now a very popular DIY project, this version based on the Tonepad schematic and corrections. For optional Symmetry pot to give you a sawtooth LFO in each direction, take a feed from Speed 3 and inline, solder in an anti-parallel pair of 1N4148 diodes. 1 of the diodes will go to Sym 1, the other to Sym 3, then Sym 2 links to Smooth 3 or Fine 1 & 2. The 4ms versions removes the Fine pot if you opt for the Symmetry pot, but there's no reason you can't use both if you want to. The Symmetry pot would be 500K.
The LDR ideally needs to be wrapped with D1 (black heat shrink tubing is great for doing that) or at least mounted facing each other. I purposely placed only links and thin leads between the two components and I have left enough separation so they can lean into each other, lie flat and be wrapped comfortably.
3 knob version without Fine and Spacing control as requested:
4 knob version without Fine control, but with Symmetry control and Spacing trimmer:
Cool! Simple, I like it.
ReplyDeleteAny chance you know what spacing, smooth and fine do? I've got a vague idea in my head but I might be wrong.
It sounds good. Would it be hard to make it just as a two knob version with Speed and Depth and all the others at noon?
Spacing changes the width of the sine wave so for instance you could set it so the "on" state can last longer than the "off" state or vice versa. Speed is obviously the main speed control for the LFO, but the Fine control let's your fine tune it to get the speed absolutely correct. Smooth is "a blend between full on/off squarewave "chop" to smooth buttery sine-tri-round wave".
DeleteSo you could probably do without Fine and Spacing, but I would say the others are necessary. Fine can just be omitted with Speed 1 and 2 going directly to Smooth 3. To remove Spacing just omit the pot and swap the 220K resistor between 9V and Spacing 3 for a 470K and put it from IC2 pin 8 (where it currently is) to IC2 pin 5 instead of the row it currently goes to.
Thanks Mark, I like the way you explain things.
DeleteI hate to be a bitch but is there any chance for a layout with fewer knobs, like the way you just suggested? Some people might appreciate it, I think!
Added
DeleteThanks Mark, you're a gem, you know that right?
DeleteIncidentally, the way it is shown above in both layouts, the LFO LED which indicates the rate will run all the time, even when the effect is in bypass. Some people like this because the LED can allow them to set a tempo without even playing the guitar, but if you want to have that LED switchable so it only illuminates when the effect is switched on, just use the usual true bypass wiring but the 2 LED lugs of the switch will connect to the LED cathode and LFO LED- on the board. So the stomp will make or break that circuit rather than the usual constant illumination LED.
ReplyDeleteOh and another thing to consider. The 10K trimmer would be fine for a 5K/500K LDR, but if you use anything bigger then you want the mid point of the trimmer to match the light resistance figure of the LDR. So if you use a 10K/1M LDR which will work fine, go for a 20K trimmer so you can match the 10K light resistance with adjustment both sides. The ratio between those is what sets the gain of the following opamp stage and you don't want it to clip.
ReplyDelete
DeleteAny other easily-obtainable LDRs you could recommend? How high can you go and still have it function properly?
5K/500K and 10-20K/1M should be easy enough to find. I just bought a pack of 50 from eBay of the second type.
Delete
DeleteCare to share the seller? I've bought wrong things from ebay way too many times... :)
I got mine from here. It's worth stocking up on them because the EU may well ban them at some point in the near future because they contain cadmium.
DeleteThanks man!
DeleteWill be putting my order in tomorrow!
I assumed this was a harder build. All dem knobs all ova da place.
ReplyDeleteAwesome! I think I'll do one with no fine control and spacing as a trimmer.
ReplyDeleteAny suggestions for building this with no/minimal LFO tick? Any wiring tricks or anything?
The tick generally comes from, noise through vbias from the LFO, which should be covered because there are two separate vbias networks, one for each IC. The two 100K resistors create vbias for the audio IC, and the 220K resistor, Spacing pot and 470K creates the one for the LFO IC. Just give it a go and we'll worry about that if it happens! :)
DeleteThanks Mark! I don't have all of the values on hand so I'm ordering parts
ReplyDeleteThe ticking thing is just important to me because I run my amp pretty crunchy so it really magnifies a small amount of ticking noise. Drives me crazy.
Anyways thanks for the insight and I appreciate the thoughtfulness of your layout with the separate vbias networks. You guys are the best!
Any chance of someone posting a graphic of how to handle the diodes and connections for the Symmetry pot version, with sawtooth LFO mod?
ReplyDeleteLike this. It's a bit scruffy but you get the idea.
Deleteexcellent. Thanks yet again, IvIark!
DeleteNew version added with Symmetry pot and Spacing trimmer, but without Fine control.
ReplyDeleteJust assembled the 3 knob version. It seems to do everything but tremolo. I can see the LED comes on but doesn't flux at all. I have checked, double checked and rechecked the board and the components. Any thoughts?
ReplyDeleteCan you measure the voltages you're getting between all the IC pins and ground. I've been over it again and can't spot anything wrong with the layout
DeleteThanks, Mark. Here we go -
ReplyDeleteIC1
1: 2.38
2: 2.49
3: 2.2
4: 0
5: 2.4
6: 2.38
7: 2.3
8: 4.83
IC2
1: 8.3
2: 8.3
3: 8.5
4: 0
5: 9.88
6: 9.48
7: 8.85
8: 8.8
Some progress with that one? Has someone verified it? I ordered some of those LDR's the ones I had were 5k light/ 250k dark. But as soon as I'll reveive them I'll give it a try.)
ReplyDeleteI plan on building it but I have seven or eight others waiting to be built first. :)
DeleteThe parts are already ordered on Tayda, though...
This comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteI've also found this:
ReplyDeletehttp://commonsound.org/tremulus/pcb2.4.1/schematic.pdf
Hi Mark,
ReplyDeleteI'm not very good at this but following the previous schematic(http://commonsound.org/tremulus/pcb2.4.1/schematic.pdf), shouldn't Speed 3 be directly connected to IC2 Pin7? Also, shouldn't Smooth 3 be connected to R10(2.7k resistor) and then Sym 2 and Speed 1,2?
Thanks
I did this based on the Tonepad schematic here:
Deletehttp://www.tonepad.com/getFile.asp?id=84
With the changes noted on the Tonepad web site:
"There has been a couple of changes to the schematic since this project was posted, those are:
In the Audio path:
Change the two 47k resistors to 220k.
Change trimpot to a 10k, you may want to use a panel mounted pot for easier adjustment instead.
Add a 330pF capacitor across opamp pins 6 and 7.
In the LFO:
Change 100ohm resistor to 2k7.
Change the 100uF cap to a 10uF."
So they have the 2K7 on the other side of the speed circuit
I've connected Speed 3 directly to IC2 Pin7, Smooth 3 through the 2.7K resistor to Sym 2 and Speed 1,2 and it works!
ReplyDeleteI had clicking noise. I've swapped 4558 with TL062 and it's now gone!
Was the 4 knobs version verified?
ReplyDeleteI've double checked with this schematic from Daan Green:
http://commonsound.org/tremulus/pcb2.4.1/schematic.pdf
I think it has all the updates that you've mentioned plus the couple of changes I've written in the previous post.
I've also had to swap the 4558 to eliminate a clicking noise.
Does the 2.7K position make much difference?
ReplyDeleteIt shouldn't, it just adds a minimum amount of resistance in between IC pin 7 and the Smooth control no matter what position the Speed or Fine pots are in. I'm not sure how that affects the Symmetry pot though, but I suspect it is still OK or the Tonepad scheme and PCB would have changed.
DeleteThe five knobber is now verified.
ReplyDeleteI love this thing!
Thank you again for these great layouts.
Awesome, thanks for verifying AK :)
Delete+1 on the 5 knob, consider it double verified
DeleteHi Mark,
ReplyDeleteI've swapped the position of 2.7K resistor and it didn't make much difference.
The 4 knobs layout is verified.
Thanks for all the suggestions!
Excellent, thanks Alex
DeleteHi!
ReplyDeleteWould it be possible to increase the effect maximum speed?
Hi,
ReplyDeleteI would like to increase the maximum speed.
Reducing the 10uF cap between Smooth3 and ground would achieve that?
Thanks
Yes experiment with the 10u value. It may be worth putting in a lower value and then using an external toggle to add other caps in parallel with it to change the range.
DeleteHi Mark,
ReplyDeleteThanks for your reply.
I've reduced the value and it worked!
The only problem is that the Smooth pot doesn't seem to do much anymore.
Does it only work on slower speeds?
Is there anything I could do to fix that with those new speeds?
Just finished 3 of these five knobber boards. Cool circuit. I'm going to do a ten knob 1590BB box - "Two Moons" :)
ReplyDelete+m
DeleteOh crap... dude, stop reading my mind!
:D
:D
DeleteI just recently built two Schaller trems, one for a frind and another to replace the insides of my very early build.. When i finished them, i just thought i'd try what those would sound like in series. With two different speeds, the form of the output is pretty much, well, out there :) Then i thought i'd need to do one of those. And this puppy here will make on hell of a dual trem :)
+m
Dumb Question here - when you put the LED and LDR together and wrap in shrinktube, how close together do you place thes components? Ae the right next to each other? Do you leave some space?
ReplyDeleteI always have them right next to each other
DeleteSame here. Put them one against the other and use a shrinkwrap or few winds of electrical tape to hold them together.
DeleteI find that, once boxed and without ambient light exposure, electrical tape is quite enough.
Two.
ReplyDeletehttp://mirosol.kapsi.fi/varasto/boxes/2Moons.jpg
+m
Nice!
DeleteI've just built a 5-knob version. Any tips as to what to do with the trimpot? How can I tell what the position should be?
ReplyDeleteIt's just a gain trimmer, so adjust it until the effect matches your dry sound, or gives you a slight boost if preferred.
DeleteThanks man!
DeleteI have one of those multiturn trimmers and I just couldn't figure out what it did. :)
Mark, one more question... any way of making "fine" pot have a bit more influence on sound? Bigger value?
ReplyDeleteMark?
DeleteI've not had too much time to devote to this for the last couple of weeks and that will probably last another couple of weeks more because of work I have on, so I'll just try to answer queries as and when I can. To be honest the fine pot by it's very nature will never have a big influence on the sound. All it will do is fine tune the tempo set by the Speed pot by between 0 and 1K and so making the total speed resistance between 0 and 11K. If you increase it's value then you will have more control over a wider range, but what's the point, you may as well just increase the value of the speed pot. To me the fine pot is only useful to fine tune the speed to get a tempo exact, and personally I wouldn't bother with it.
DeleteHey man!
DeleteThanks for the answer! I certainly wasn't trying to twist your arm into answering, I just thought to capitalize on the fact that you were obviously on the board at that time. :)
I'll probably dispense with the fine pot as well when boxing time comes around...
Hey folks!
ReplyDeleteI have a problem with my build. All the connections are made and there are no cold solder spots. Still, I get no signal when I engage the pedal.
The LED/LDR is working (measured), but the LFO LED will just light up right when I plug the pedal in, then blink once or twice. After that, it won't light up.
Any ideas where the flaw could be?
DeleteCould be something as simple as one of the opamp chips being faulty, especially if you get absolutely no sound or lfo excitement. Try exchanging them and see if that helps. Also check the voltage on the IC power pins.
Is the actual lfo led blinking and you get no light on the offboard lfo led?
An audioprobe would come in handy to see where exactly is it that you lose signal.
The offboard LED isn't working, the one on the board works perfectly fine! I will try exchanging the opamp chips and see if that helps.
DeleteAlright so I exchanged both opamps at a time, then one at a time. The problem remains the same.
DeleteMeasured voltages are:
IC1:
1 4,53
2 4,55
3 4,55
4 9,05
5 4,51
6 4,55
7 4,53
8 0,00
IC2:
1 3,34
2 3,80
3 4,43
4 9,10
5 3,67
6 3,67
7 3,42
8 0,00
Whereas the voltages on IC2 sweep over some area, I pointed out the peak values. The only steady values were Pin 4 and pin 8
OK check this out
Deletehttp://fuzzcentral.ssguitar.com/tremulus/tremulusschematic.gif
Let's try to narrow the possible scope of the problem. You say that LFO/LDR led blinks as you play. Looking at the bottom schematic, it would appear that most of the lfo circuit must be in perfect working order because that led is at the very end of the lfo path. If only the visual led is not working, check the part below depth pot for issues.
Now for the signal path, it's the upper schematic. In absence of an audioprobe (you really should make one if this is more than an one-off build), you should try swapping 072 for another and see if it helps.
Naturally, it could still be a wiring error or a tiny solder bridge grounding your signal. Did you knife the gaps?
Just saw your post after posting mine. Luckily my build is still not boxed (or given away :) ) so I can check the voltages but again, consider slapping together an audioprobe and tracing your signal path. After all, it's only one capacitor and some wire. :)
DeleteThe gaps are knifed, I double checked on the board before wiring up the pots and double checked on them as well. All the cuts are complete and all the links work perfectly fine.
DeleteWhat I experienced by accident: upon putting LFO LED to ground (the one outside) it worked just fine and blinked as it should, also when I readjusted the pots.
To me it seems like a grounding error, but I will consider building an audioprobe.
I'll check the voltages tonight and report back. I find it strange that you get absolutely no signal, that certainly points towards the signal getting grounded somewhere along the way.
DeleteOK, here are my voltages. First of all, your numbering must be off because there's no way that pins 4 are anything other than 0V with them being, well, grounded. :)
DeleteIC1:
1 4.65
2 4.65
3 4.63
4 0
5 4.63
6 4.66
7 4.65
8 9.34
IC2:
1 5.76
2 5.77
3 5.85
4 0
5 6.05
6 5.9
7 5.82
8 9.34
All pots fully CW.
DeleteThis is how you number the pins:
http://www.st-andrews.ac.uk/~www_pa/Scots_Guide/datasheets/Opamps/072dia.gif
pin 1 is top left on this layout. measure with all pots cw and compare.
New Measures are:
DeleteTL072
1 4,55
2 4,55
3 4,53
4 0
5 4,55
6 4,53
7 4,53
8 9,1
JRC4558
1 5,34
2 5,34
3 5,33
4 0
5 5,34
6 6,89
7 5,36
8 9,11
So they are not off by a lot. I've built an audioprobe, just need to read the schematic and properly transfer it to my build.
Judging by the voltages the ICs should work fine. What else could it be?
Yes the voltages look pretty good to me, so assuming all else in terms of placing is good based on that, you're looking for maybe a faulty component. You really need that audio probe and to follow the path from input to output to see where you're losing the signal.
DeleteJust go through the schematic from the input to the output and see where your guitar stops sounding good. Given that the lfo circuit is operational (lfo/ldr led blinks) I'd first concentrate on the signal path from input to output (upper schematic) to see where the signal gets lost. When we solve that problem we can tackle the offboard lfo led.
DeleteI have that audio probe built and will go through the schematic tomorrow, let's hope for the best!
DeleteAlright, upon audioprobing I saw that I made a mistake in the LDR Placement, everything works perfectly fine now.
DeleteThanks for taking the time and helping, I'll post pics as soon as I'm done boxing this thing!
So this is what my build looks like:
Deletehttps://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/3363612/Gitarren-Forum/DSC01824.JPG
DeleteExcellent! Audioprobe FTW! :)))
Is that picture printed on OHP transparency glued to painted enclosure?
Yup, it is!
DeleteDidn't work that well this time, I still need to find the right clear coat lacquer.
But I really like the outcome of this build, gonna give this baby a spin through my amp on friday.
DeleteFeeding this pedal into a delay is really fun, thanks for the layout, one of my favourite builds so far!
ReplyDeleteAfter having those initial problems with it, I figured I might as well shoot a video of it:
ReplyDeletehttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5f9Ug4FUfvs
Enjoy!
Nice one Chris!
DeleteWhat's in your vactrol, your TL sounds way better than mine...?
Hey Goran!
DeleteSorry for getting back at you so late, I was stuck at work.
I used a photocell whcih is on at 1,2k and off at 500k and a 3mm red LED. Other than that I used electricians tape to darken it.
Sound could also be the guitar, which is equipped with custom pickups that respond to picking dynamics very well!
What are D2 and D3 diodes on the symmetry control versions?
ReplyDeleteI don't see it written out anywhere?
d'oh... it's right up there in the writeup... :)
DeleteI added the ramp up/down mod switch and found it useful to switch the speed & fine pots to 50k/5k for slower settings and better control (credit Mick Bailey circa 2006).
ReplyDeleteIs the mark on the LED on the layout the anode or the cathode ?
ReplyDeleteI can never remember...
Thank
Cathode. It's marked on the LED rim too.
Delete+m
Thanks for the fast answer Miro, now that i reversed the legs it works like a charm ! (3 knob version)
DeleteCheers
This comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteDumb question : what is the plate with a little screw just above the output in layout 1 & 2 ?
ReplyDeleteIt's a trimpot. a little potentiometer.
DeleteIt's a trimpot. a little potentiometer.
Deletethanks :)
DeleteMark, would Geofex's 'LERA' (the rotary speaker simulation circuit) work in this pedal replacing the speed knob? Unfortunately i can't link you to Lera because of the way his site works but i'm gonna guess you already know it.
ReplyDeleteAnd i can't tell in the video but is the smooth knob a square/sine wave knob?
Scratch the square/sine wave question, just found the answer at the very top.
ReplyDeleteHi Mark! there are a way to change the Smooth potentiometer for a Switch on-on to select the waveform?
ReplyDeleteYes just use the same connections to a SPDT on/on toggle. Smooth 1 to switch lug 1, Smooth 2 to switch lug 2 and Smooth 3 to switch lug 3.
DeleteIs it just me or is there a discrepancy between the layouts and the schematics?
ReplyDeleteOn the second row it looks like smooth 3 is hooked up to fine 1,2 (with symmetry control it's the smooth 3 to symmetry 2).
On both schematics these lugs are not connected but only via the 2k7 resistor in series.
Any chance of something which I am missing here?
Ooops....I guess it's just the 2k7 in series with the pot which means it doesn't matter on which way it's hooked up.
DeleteHi guys,
ReplyDeleteSorry to spoil the verification fun here but I think the SPEED pot is 100KB. I will try 100KA and see if it has a better taper, but according to the schematic and Sabrotone's notes it's definitely 100K.
This is the schematic I did it from
Deletehttp://oi59.tinypic.com/2z7li5c.jpg
Oh, Sorry. I thought you used this schematic from commonsound which looks great and uses 100K pots for the speed.
Deletehttp://commonsound.org/tremulus/pcb2.4.1/schematic.pdf
Could you comment on the differences between the configurations?
No I did it off the Tonepad layout. Not sure how they differ, I haven't built either, but its easy to adapt if you want to try both.
DeleteJust checked out the 100KB pot as a RATE knob and it is completely worth it.
DeleteI even left the 10KB pot as a FINE knob which is very useful now that the range is huge. The higher end of the scale is very manageable with the FINE knob and it also helps with the interactive behavior of the RATE and the SPACING knob. I have come to the realization that a 3 knob is very nice for a tremolo, but these 6 knobbies really give you shaping that makes the circuit quite endless and amazing.
One thing I did not succeed is implementing a double rate switch to shift rates with a quick momentary stomp. Can be very unique sounding.
This is quite a nice little trem. at first i thought it was going into the scrap bin but i realized that i completely missed two pins from the lower ic. Once i added solder, it came to life and made my day.
ReplyDeleteGreat job fellas.
Finally got it just the way I wanted. Great build, Thanks everyone.
ReplyDeleteIt's a super capable piece of history and a really high quality sounding pedal.
Here's my post on this great pedal. Audio clips on the bottom of the post:
fuzzquest.blogspot.com/2014/11/the-tide-looney-tremulus-lune-super.html
I recently noticed i had two boards of the Lune ready, but without pot wiring. Wired one of those up, but omitted the fine control by just using 20k lin pot for the rate. It offers sufficient sweep and control..
ReplyDelete+m
Hi ! Did someone tried the 3 knobs version ?
ReplyDeleteI don't have any sound, it's loud but no trem (no Guitar sound too),
I've used a VTL5C2, should I use a VTL5C3 ?
The LFO Led works properly
Thanking you by advance !
same here! clean sound but no trem, i use vtl5c1
DeleteHi, does anyone know , or has experimented different IC?
ReplyDeleteI've tried a coulple of TL072 and it's really noisy (tickings...)
Someone above apparently solve it with a TL062 ? Any clue ?
I've built a few with 4558 for both ICs. Works.
Delete+m
Works but not noisy ? I've a big ticking noise
DeleteEverything appears to be working (Led LFO + Signal)
I'll try TL062s
I've never exprecienced LFO bleed/ticks on any of my lune builds, so i'm thinking you should knife the gaps just to be sure. Also, 4558 is the LFO on this layout and 072 for that may be the reason for ticks...
Delete+m
I've had ticks with two 4558s, I really don't know from where that could come...
DeleteDon't you think if that ticking problem is there, that because the 9v goes directly through the LFO IC ? I've built several Tremulus Lune clone before but by using kits, and they had a 100uF capacitor just after the V+ connection ?
DeleteI'll try it and let you know what will happened if anybody can answer me .. ;)
I think the supply can be the root of my issue, I'll try a 9V battery
I've triied a battery and nothing changed,
DeleteI've also triied another LFO, nothing better,
I really think the issue comes from the LFO IC
Built it twice and also had ticking noise. Perhaps it´s the optocopler (led/ldr), have ordered some others and will try soon. On DIYstompboxes.com there are some perhaps useful advises for ticking elimination (http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=84020.20), rising the 330pF cap above gain to 1nF or higher could be the solution. And Mark gives an explanation why the TL062 could be a better choice for IC2 (http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2013/04/culturejam-shoot-moon.html?showComment=1382971934199#c8331528295150319839); ordered some and will give it try.
DeleteBut apart of the ticking noise my builds both sounds flat and the bass and mids are less in comparison to the dry signal / bybass. Does anybody has an idea what could be wrong here? Could I try to change any cap to bigger value or could it be a wrong ldr?
Many thanks for answers.
Just finished my build and works great! Thank you for the vero!
ReplyDeleteI have a question: I did the symmetry mod instead of the fine pot. Is it normal that speed increases when the symmetry pot is fully on the left/right?
(not sure if I did not send this post twice)
Here is some more interesting information why to use a low-current opamp and how to decouple the LFO and audio path (and why) to eliminate ticking. I`m a newbie in things like that and im still learning but maybe it would be not a bad idea to put the 100K resistor from the shared +9v source to the V+ pin of each of the both ICs and from these pins a 100uF to ground like figured out in point 3.
ReplyDeletehttps://sites.google.com/site/flofxdiy/deticking-lfo
I would be glad if i could change the layout by myself. Mark?
Built the 4 knobs version and it works and sound great! :)
ReplyDeleteI just changed the speed pot to 25k, as it did not get as slow as I wanted...
I had speed increase in extreme symmetry values too...
I also went for a 25k pot for speed in a 3-knob build, and have a 4.7k resistor in place of the 2.7k. Works great!
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeletehave I constructed of 5 knobs, connecting spacing 2 to spacing 1 the smooth was not doing anything from what I have connected spacing 2 to spacing 3 and it seems that it works ok, but with the subdued pedal noise of the tremolo is listened, it sounds at the speed of the knob speed, does a light noise that slips in in the bypass, some idea to remove this noise? thank you
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteHas anyone tried the only LDR that Tayda has at the moment?
ReplyDeleteDoes it work with the lune?
http://www.taydaelectronics.com/resistors/photoresistors/photo-conductive-cell-resistor-ldr-650nm-radial-ke-10720.html
It is a 10k light/500k dark...
Here is the datasheet:
https://www.digchip.com/datasheets/download_datasheet.php?id=475506&part-number=KE10720
It worked fine for me!
DeleteThanks mate! I'll give it a shot...
ReplyDeletehmm i've built it up and it's not sounding.... led on lfo lights up. used for both TL072 ics.... ...
ReplyDeleteWould the led on the diy vactrol side light up when there's input? in that case, mine's not lighting up...
ReplyDeleteIt should be pulsating no matter the signal input. If it's not pulsating, then it's either reversed (cathode/anode), or the LFO is not working as its supposed to.
Delete+m
Ah! seems like both ICs are fried. Cool, got the led on the vactrol side lighting up. now waiting for the 20k trimmer... fingers crossed!
ReplyDeletealso should the led on the left side of the board blink when moving any knobs? mine's not blinking, maybe it's because of the missing 20k trimmer...
That trimmer only affects the signal recovery stage volume - so yours will not come alive with that trimmer. The LED should blink and speed should control how fast it's blinking. Depth should control how brithly it blinks.
DeleteSo the LED should be blinkin all the time the effect is getting power.
Missing the trimmer will mean that you won't be getting any signal through the second half of the signal opamp.
+m
lfo is not blinking when moving any pots. I'm attempting to build with symmetry control, 5 knobs. with spacing being the 5th.
ReplyDeletewhat should the value of the diodes?
mine is D2, 0.909 and D3, 0.898.
(tested with still no trimmer on left side yet) maybe it's the ic...
This comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteHey |v|ark, thanks for posting this one. Any comment on marrying two of them together for a Tremulus Panneur?
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteis there anyway to add lfo out control voltage?
ReplyDeleteBoa tarde! Estou tendo problemas com o pedal, quando ligo o efeito ele perde muito volume.
ReplyDeleteTensõe:
Ic1
P1 9.1
P2 9.1
P3 8.2
P4 0
P5 19.0
P6 9.1
P7 9.1
P8 8.2
Ic2
P1 9.6
P2 9.6
P3 6.6
P4 0
P5 18.8
P6 10.1
P7 11.4
P8 6.8
Hello neighbors!! I figured out how to use 2 of these boards to make a stereo panner. The modifications are in the forum.
ReplyDeleteI also found that my gain trimmer wasn't very helpful, so i took some measurements on my LED/LDR and found the light side resistance of my LDR to be around 125ohm. Increasing the 330ohm current limiting resistor in series with the LED to 2.7k brought the LDR resistance to around 14k, which will play much nicer with my 25k gain pot.
Excellent tremolo, and very good layout, thanks !
ReplyDeletecould someone help me?? My lfo leds internal and external are always on, doesn't blink. Potentiometer dont works, I get clean sound with the effect on, but no modulation ..
ReplyDeleteI built the five-knob version. It works for me but the spacing and depth knobs need to be in very specific settings to work. Spacing needs to be almost off, or just slightly on. Depth works more like a volume, and only works when set at ~80 per cent. Also, it seems to be backwards, getting louder as you turn it down, even though I triple checked pot values and wiring.
ReplyDeleteAlso, fine and smooth make practically no changes to the sound.
The wildcard in all this is my LDR, which came from tayda with no resistance rating or data sheet. I'm going to try ordering a better one.
Hi and thanks for the layout! I built the 4 knob version but have a little problem. The led inside the vactrol assemby isn't flashing. It stays on all the time. It does vary in brightness with the depth knob though. The external status led does flash and vary its speed when the speed knob is turned. Any idea what might be wrong with the ldr/led assembly?? Thanks and keep up the good work!
ReplyDeleteI got my Tremulus Lune working!
DeleteAfter testing, the culprit happened to be a bad solder from a wire going to the depth pot! :o
The pedal sounds very nice and has a very cool vibe to it!! Really recommended tremolo build.
Thanks a lot Mark!
NXT in line,,,,,
ReplyDeleteBuild the six knob trem and for me i can say its verified! Nice sounding trem!Jun fr Philippines.
ReplyDeleteI used tl072 for both chip.
ReplyDeleteThis is my first pedal project and its sounding very cool. The pedal seems to have an overall high-pass effect on incoming audio. Is this normal and perhaps due to the quality of the parts in use, or does this mean that I've done something wrong? The high-pass effect isn't terrible, but it does noticeably subtract from the overall perceived audio quality compared to the input. I also wonder if anyone has added any gain to the end to make up for lost gain in the circuit?
ReplyDelete