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Sunday, 27 January 2013

Suhr Riot - Fixed

I've put a couple of Suhr Riot layouts on here, one from Madbean's take on it, and one with jymaze's popular modifications, but it was always felt that something wasn't quite right.  Fortunately MarkGor on Freestompboxes traced his pedal and also removed some of the components so they could be measured to check the values, and the following layout is based on his schematic.  So thanks Mark!

A quick reminder:






at

135 comments:

  1. Anonymous27 January 2013 at 16:44

    Vince....one more try?

    ReplyDelete
  2. Unknown27 January 2013 at 18:02

    Hey Mark,

    Might I ask why use used 4148's in place of the BZV49-C51 (51Y) Diodes in D5 and D6.

    Is it just for convenience over the IC Zeners? Did they have similar voltage?

    I was trying to look at the spec sheets to see if they had similar specs when I realized I don't know what value to even look for.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. IvIark27 January 2013 at 18:46

      It's a leftover from the previous versions I did, I didn't even notice they were zeners in the fixed scheme. So yes use the zeners if you want to make it as per the original.

      Delete
  3. JaviCAP27 January 2013 at 18:03

    As soon as i get some DPDT ON_ON_ON, i'll build this one. Any source fot these switches with reasonable prices? Don't wirh to spend 4 euros / unit :P

    BR

    ReplyDelete
  4. Unknown27 January 2013 at 18:13

    yay, thanks for this, been waiting for another crack at this, was never really happy with my uproar pedal

    ReplyDelete
  5. Anonymous27 January 2013 at 18:18

    Haha.. I thought about it, Tim. But my hearts not in it anymore. I may have a bash at it if/when I have nothing else to do ;o)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Anonymous27 January 2013 at 19:58

      Heh...I figured you'd had enough of it. I just sold my Riot recently and already miss it. Going to have to give this one a go after I finish a couple other builds. I wonder what life is like outside of pedal building.....don't really want to know :)

      Delete
    2. Anonymous27 January 2013 at 20:44

      It sound a really nice, organic pedal. I might make this one as a bit by bit one in the background. Life? what the hell is that? .. I've just got a Les Paul too so there is no way I'm seeing daylight for a long while ;o)

      Delete
  6. JaviCAP27 January 2013 at 18:34

    I've seen that Chinese New Year celebrations start right now, I'll forget about the Riot until March....

    BR

    ReplyDelete
  7. Unknown27 January 2013 at 18:58

    Hi could someone pls explain hot to wire an LED, possibly with a diagram? thanks.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Anonymous27 January 2013 at 19:11

      http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.co.uk/2012/02/offboard-wiring.html

      Delete
  8. Fredrik Lyxzén27 January 2013 at 19:35

    Doh! I recently built my second Riot. Will have to built it one more time it seems... Thanks for the layout! :)

    ReplyDelete
  9. mah6227 January 2013 at 22:56

    Hi Mark, is this a fix on the madbean or the Jymaze version? Are the switching options of the former possible on this?

    Thanks, YA(Mark)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. IvIark27 January 2013 at 23:08

      It isn't a fix for either, it's a fix for the original Riot schematic. Madbean did his Uproar and jymaze did his mods to try to improve it, but this new schematic is based on a reversed pedal where the components were removed and measured. So I left those versions up because some people like them, but this is for the people who want to build a stock Riot.

      Delete
    2. mah6228 January 2013 at 00:29

      Gotcha! I'll give this a whirl. Actually, sometimes it can be too distracting when you have too many switches on a box. Cheers mate! Thanks for the quick reply. (as usual)!

      Delete
  10. hangingmonkey27 January 2013 at 23:49

    Hey Mark, how come you went with a 10kB for the tone pot when the schematic says 10kC?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. IvIark27 January 2013 at 23:57

      I haven't got any 10K anti log pots :o)

      Delete
    2. hangingmonkey28 January 2013 at 12:39

      LOL, fair enough

      Delete
    3. IvIark28 January 2013 at 12:54

      Actually I just didn't notice and left the pot values as per the original layouts I did :o)

      I'll update it, thanks for the heads up

      Delete
    4. hangingmonkey28 January 2013 at 16:14

      No problem. Hey, only 2 more schematics to go, hope youguys reach 100

      Delete
    5. hangingmonkey28 January 2013 at 20:11

      Does it matter if i use 3mm/5mm LEDS or diffused/waterclears?

      Delete
    6. hangingmonkey28 January 2013 at 20:19

      Just checked the original schematic and answered my question, 3mm LEDs. Still is there much difference between diffused and waterclears?

      Is the zener supposed to be 5.1v? On the schematic it says 1n4148, are they interchangable with zeners, like the 1n914s?

      Cheers.

      Delete
    7. IvIark28 January 2013 at 20:35

      On the fixed schematic they're marked 51Y which are 51V zeners

      Delete
    8. Unknown28 January 2013 at 21:43

      The zener diodes are just used like a normal diode, so it's Vf will be around 0.7V, very similar to a 1n914

      Delete
    9. Unknown29 January 2013 at 01:03

      anything showing that they have similar voltages? or is that a guess?

      Delete
    10. hangingmonkey29 January 2013 at 07:48

      Doh! Just realised i was looking at the idiot v1.1 schematic instead of the original one...

      Delete
    11. Unknown29 January 2013 at 21:40

      @Nicholas Schaffrin. No it's not just a guess, look at the data sheet for them, they all have similar forward voltage drops, it's the reverse breakdown voltage that determines a zener diode value. But in this situation the high reverse breakdown voltage will never be reached, so they are just being used like a normal clipping diode.

      Delete
    12. Unknown29 January 2013 at 22:43

      I wasn't saying you were wrong. I just wanted to make sure before I built it and ordered parts. Datasheets to me may as well be in mandarin.;-)

      Delete
  11. mah628 February 2013 at 19:13

    Verified, albeit, I've subbed a few parts until stocks are replenished:
    1n4148s instead of 1n34a; JRC4558 instead of 4580 and green LED instead of blue. Very nice, thanks


    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. IvIark8 February 2013 at 19:22

      Excellent, nice one Mark

      Delete
    2. mah628 February 2013 at 19:52

      ......oh, and BTW, I wasn't sure if 51v Zener was a typo but I may have wrongly assumed it was and put 5v1 instead. Please forgive my ignorance if I'm wrong! The schematic says 51y or something weird like that. Whatever that means!

      Delete
    3. IvIark8 February 2013 at 20:02

      Yes the original did have a 51V zener in it, but the way that it's used won't make a difference, they all have a similar voltage drop, you could even just use a 1N4148 if you wanted.

      Delete
  12. Unknown19 February 2013 at 16:40

    About the LED diodes.....will 5mm LED's work?...and...is the 'highlighted' side of the LED's plus or minus??

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. IvIark19 February 2013 at 17:09

      5mm are fine although 3mm will be easier to mount next to each other on the board. The highlighted side is the cathode.

      Delete
    2. Unknown19 February 2013 at 17:43

      Thanks. Sooo many builds. So little time!!

      Delete
  13. Unknown21 February 2013 at 19:42

    Man, this pedal sounds absolutely fantastic. This is my 2nd pedal build ever (have built an amp before) and it worked on the first try. I'm absolutely amazed at how close this sounds to the original.

    IvIark, thank you so much for this site and all contributors...I have a feeling my free time has just went down the drain.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. IvIark21 February 2013 at 19:55

      Very brave second pedal, and great that it worked first time, well done. It's that feeling of satisfaction that makes you want to do more and more, and you can never get close to that sense of satisfaction from a pedal you bought.

      Delete
    2. Unknown21 February 2013 at 21:29

      This is so true!
      I have a problem with OCD (not really, but sometimes it feels like it) so I always pay very very close attention to what I'm doing, to avoid having to troubleshoot...Helps for things like this!
      Really, you did all the leg work though! So thank you very much! Looking forward to trying more!

      Since we're here...I used a DPDT On/Off/On switch, I actually kind of figured it would do the same thing since it had 3 positions...but I'm wondering now if I should actually get an On/On/On?

      Delete
    3. IvIark21 February 2013 at 21:33

      If you're using an on/off/on then in the middle position, the 1N34As aren't in circuit so you're playing it without any diode clipping. You need DPDT on/on/on with the 2 to 4 link for a diode set to be made in every postion.

      Delete
    4. Unknown26 February 2013 at 21:54

      Is it possible to modify the circuit so I could use dpdt on/off/on toggle switch? I can't seem to find any on/on/on dpdt switches and the ones I found online are very expensive about 20 euros.

      Delete
    5. IvIark26 February 2013 at 22:23

      The problem is, with an on/off/on you could only have 2 clipping options instead of 3. You can get on/on/on very cheaply off eBay:

      http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/180738971928

      Delete
    6. Unknown26 February 2013 at 22:47

      Thanks Mark for a quick reply, lightning fast as always :)

      Delete
    7. agitprop2 April 2013 at 21:05

      You are a badass, Bryan--the Riot is an impressive second build!

      I have 20 pedals under my belt, and I regularly fuck up/give up on builds less complicated than this one ;-)

      Delete
  14. Jens Lindell18 March 2013 at 16:27

    Hi mark i have a copule of questions on this one. ive finished this one but i sounds a bit strange to me and maby you or someone else have an idea whats wrong with it.
    1 it sounds like its working on half power sorta almost like an transistor that is getting the wrong voltage and gets blaffy or gated cold sounding.
    2 and the gain dosent increases when turning the pot until you get around 3 or 4 a clock.
    3 and this pedal is supposed to have alot of gain but mine dosent.
    ok thanks

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Jens Lindell20 March 2013 at 07:49

      anyone please!

      Delete
    2. Unknown14 February 2015 at 06:53

      Im having the same issue. It worked fine for awhile then started sounding farty

      Delete
  15. RAD1 April 2013 at 18:41

    Has anyone noticed that this fixed version of the Riot, when switched to the 2 red LED position, is almost exactly the same schematic as the MI Audio Crunch Box without the presence mod? Could any of you who have built this fixed circuit with the 3 position DPDT switch, and have also at sometime used a Crunchbox, comment on whether or not the Riot sound is different enough from the Crunchbox to warrant the effort of building it? Thanks.

    ReplyDelete
  16. Bliss27 April 2013 at 17:36

    Is it possible to put in other IC's? Since the JRC4580 are rare around here..

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. IvIark27 April 2013 at 18:29

      Yes, any dual opamp will work fine, JRC4558, TL072, NE5532 etc etc

      Delete
    2. Bliss27 April 2013 at 18:31

      Thanks!

      Delete
    3. Bliss29 April 2013 at 16:13

      Does the sound change? If so which of the two is closest to the original Riot?

      Delete
  17. Alltrax7428 April 2013 at 20:21

    I finished this one today, it sounds good everything works but on high gain settings i find the palm mutes to be a bit loose where i'd like them to be tight and cutting.
    Is this normal to this pedal ? (played it with an explorer with SD SH-6)

    ReplyDelete
  18. Anonymous29 April 2013 at 20:24

    I'm going to attack this one again. It still sticks in my throat and I wont rest until I have it... one question though,

    How important are the 51v Zeners? I've ordered some as I only have 9v.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. tinkercreak10 May 2013 at 01:19

      Hey Vince

      I wonder if the 51v will make a difference as well. I know in the original one that I built from Sabro's layout, those were simply 1N914 ( 1N4148 ). It worked fine so I know they will function in there. I can't imagine that they would affect the sound very much, but who knows? I gotta build this too as I sold my original and miss it now.

      Glad to see you're having another go at it.

      TM

      Delete
  19. Unknown2 May 2013 at 01:00

    Is BZV49-C51 the correct Zener diode part number???? If not, does anyone know the correct diode to use in D5 and D6? I'm new to building and in zener diode hell right now. lol

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Alltrax742 May 2013 at 08:47

      I got mine here : http://such002.reichelt.de/?SID=11UVQJHH8AAAIAAEOSCn87032e32720289156fcd0eb49cde896f7;ACTION=446

      Delete
    2. Unknown31 May 2013 at 01:58

      Thanks for the info but unfortunately the link did not work for me. Thanks to this blog, I have a much better understanding of the effects. I have since finished the effect and gave it to a friend who has a Riot permanently on his board and he likes this version better. Thank you also Mark.

      Delete
  20. mauroba9 May 2013 at 22:40

    Hi!
    Amazing blog! Well done.

    I want to try this one. This will be my first one! So... I need to know how much voltage must be the capacitors. Any advice?
    Thanks!!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. IvIark9 May 2013 at 22:46

      Have a read of this. If will answer that and maybe other queries you have

      Delete
    2. mauroba10 May 2013 at 13:23

      Thanks IvIark!
      It was very helpful!

      Delete
    3. mauroba12 May 2013 at 20:58

      Hi! Another doubt. The leds are hidden inside the box. Isn't it? Are they only to fulfill its electrical function?

      Why are they red and blue? Why not all red?

      Delete
    4. johnk25 May 2013 at 18:57

      diode color leds have different forward voltages, hence different clipping levels.

      Delete
  21. johnk25 May 2013 at 19:03

    I built one using this layout last night. I even had the 8K25 reisitor but made the 11K3 one using a 10K inseries with a 1.3K one. I also used the 51V zeners, 1N34A's (NOS telefunken ones!) and the correct color leds. IMO, like some have said about the the madbean version, correct schematic or not, IMO, this pedal was just way too dark when compared to the orginal. even with zero gain dialed in, it cuts a lot of the highs. as you turn up the gain it gets a bit brighter) but I still didn't think that it sounded like any of the orginal clips that I've heard, so i ended up modding a few cap values in mine and I really like it now.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. RAD20 June 2013 at 19:31

      Hi John,

      I too built this exactly to spec and agree with your assessment of the final product. I was planning to try to make some changes to brighten things up, but as you have already solved the problem, I was wondering if you would mind sharing the mods you made? Thanks!

      Delete
  22. johnk28 May 2013 at 20:43

    DONE!

    http://johnkvintageguitars.homestead.com/Effects/Fuzz-ODs/Riot/Riot-01.jpg

    http://johnkvintageguitars.homestead.com/Effects/Fuzz-ODs/Riot/Riot-02.jpg

    ReplyDelete
  23. Unknown28 May 2013 at 22:13

    John where can I pick up some LED lens like that?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Unknown28 May 2013 at 23:17

      They look like Fresnel lens to me...

      http://www.banzaimusic.com/Lens/

      Delete
  24. Anonymous25 September 2013 at 13:34

    Hi my friends, my UPROAR have a problem, the blue led don't lighting

    ReplyDelete
  25. Unknown23 November 2013 at 15:38

    hello,
    Im trying to make this pedal but i dont know how the wiring diagram is. Can you help me?

    ReplyDelete
  26. Unknown5 January 2014 at 00:54

    Hi, thanks for the layout. I have just completed the build. I used 1509B with battery option and 2 DPDT switch. I added the presence/facemelt mod. Overall, the sound is great, except for the facemelter which is too much. I just want a little more gain on this, I maxed the gain and is still wanting a little more.

    ReplyDelete
  27. Unknown7 February 2014 at 13:22

    hello, will there be any difference in sound as I use a 47v 0,5w zener diode in place of 51V?
    thanks

    ReplyDelete
  28. Unknown7 February 2014 at 13:36

    Another problem, in my country I can not find the switch on-on-on, I wonder if I can use the rotary switch (3 positions and 4 circuits), like this: http://www.julik.pl/userdata/gfx/6845a10e1ecd144c4369a50e3369ec7d.jpg

    ReplyDelete
  29. giudis7 February 2014 at 23:25

    Is it the new Suhr Riot Reloaded? :)

    ReplyDelete
  30. Jaemin Choi31 March 2014 at 07:38

    Finished it and I love it!
    Instantly this is my favorite distortion box.
    I only have JRC4558s.
    Will using 4580 change the sound drastically?

    ReplyDelete
  31. kekkofor24 April 2014 at 22:33

    sorry
    but what does it mean Tone 3 to Sw5? is Sw1-5?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. IvIark5 April 2014 at 00:04

      In means connect lug 3 of the tone pot to lug 5 of the switch.

      Delete
    2. kekkofor27 April 2014 at 15:52

      Thanks!!!

      Delete
  32. Unknown9 June 2014 at 00:09

    Very nice layout, thank you Mark.
    I've just finished it and I like it :)

    Cheers,
    Felix

    ReplyDelete
  33. Unknown21 June 2014 at 07:00

    How does this differ from the Reloaded one? Any mods than can be done from the riot clone? or a new scheme?
    Thanks

    ReplyDelete
  34. Unknown22 June 2014 at 08:30

    This is the first pedal I tried building using madbean's layout (a couple of years ago) and failed misserably. Is it viable to use these component values on a madbean board?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. IvIark22 June 2014 at 10:07

      There were errors in the original schematic that Brian used, and that I used in the first version on here. This version corrected those errors. So although it's possible that you could adapt some of the connections on the old board to match this schematic, it would be a pain to do so

      Delete
  35. Σταύρος29 June 2014 at 21:42

    I have oscillation issues when I tweak tone and dist pots. I tried to increase those pico caps a little but no luck. Any guess?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Σταύρος30 June 2014 at 21:58

      Actually it was one of the two 100pf caps that I was not suspecting. I replaced it and its fine now...I wonder why it went bad though

      Delete
  36. Unknown30 June 2014 at 21:07

    Am I correct in assuming that the diode clippings goes like this.....
    Position 1 red LEDS
    Position 2 GE diodes
    position 3 Zener and blue LED

    ReplyDelete
  37. bart4 July 2014 at 12:50

    Hey guys! A quick question about clipping options: in my build, in position 1 I have 2 red leds lighting up, which is the way it shold be. However, in positions 2 and 3 the blue led lights up. Shouldn't it light up only in position 3? Thanks in advance.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Convergent Sound10 July 2016 at 20:05

      Sorry I'm late to the party. I had the same issue, but I discovered that there are two types of On-on-on switching patterns and I bet you have the same type of switch as myself. Basically you have to take the switch diagram at the bottom of the layout and mirror it 180 degrees horizontal.
      Link 2-5, the link to switch 3 goes to switch 6, the link to 6 goes to switch 3, etc. Hope that helps!

      Delete
    2. Convergent Sound10 July 2016 at 20:17

      *link 1-5, sorry*

      Delete
    3. josep28 April 2020 at 18:04

      please!!!! can you help me please!! Could you explain better how the DPDT connects on-on-on? I have an "inverted" model as you indicate, but it is not clear where to connect Tone3 to SW, and most importantly; How is the bridge connected?
      Is this still legs 2 and 4?
      Thank you!!!! I think that the central position does not work for me, I do not notice any change, only the positions of the ends (red led and blue led) work to know if the central position really works for me;

      Can i put diode LED's d1 to d4 to see if they work?

      Thanks a lot

      Delete
    4. IvIark29 April 2020 at 20:50

      You need to use a multimeter to see what on/on/on contact arrangement is. The ones I bought are as per the diagram above as follows.

      So in position one pins 1 and 2, and pins 4 and 5 are connected.
      In the centre position pins 2 and 3, and pins 4 and 5 are connected.
      In position three pins 2 and 3, and pins 5 and 6 are connected.

      This means that in position one the signal is routed via pin 1 to the red LEDs.

      In the centre position the signal is routed via pin 3 to the 470R resistor and then D1>D3, D2>D4

      In position three the signal is routed via pin 6 to the 220R resistor and then the blue LED in parallel with D6>D5

      Your switch may have the opposite arrangement as has been mentioned above. This will mean the contacts connected are mirrored, so Tone 3 will need to connect to pin 2

      Pin 1 becomes pin 4
      Pin 3 becomes pin 6
      Pin 6 becomes pin 3

      And the link will go between 1 and 5 instead of 2 and 4

      Delete
  38. David Jerome14 July 2014 at 01:00

    Could you post a link to the thread where this was freshly traced? I could not find it searching for "Suhr Riot" or user "MarkGor" on FSB.
    Thanks for another great layout.

    ReplyDelete
  39. David Jerome14 July 2014 at 01:05

    sorry! I found it. I was searching w/o logging in!
    Thanks again

    ReplyDelete
  40. Gius7 December 2014 at 00:38

    I have the same questione of Bart about clipping diodes:
    in position 1 I have 2 red leds lighting up, which is the way it shold be. However, in positions 2 and 3 the blue led lights up. Shouldn't it light up only in position 3?

    Reply

    ReplyDelete
  41. Unknown17 December 2014 at 17:49

    Can I use 1N4148 or 1N914 for D5/D6? Many thanks.

    ReplyDelete
  42. Unknown20 January 2015 at 04:48

    I just built this with all the parts on the diagram and man it sounds awesome! Sounds just like my original riot i used to have.

    ReplyDelete
  43. Unknown5 May 2015 at 22:50

    does anyone know what font is on the label?

    ReplyDelete
  44. badoogie8 July 2015 at 21:58

    I built this with the fixed layout and at first got no sound. I wondered if it was the cheap JRC4580 chips I got on eBay, so I swapped them for some TL072s and it worked (and sounded great!) But here's the puzzler; I tried both the cheapo JRC4580s one at a time in a TS7 Tube Screamer I keep handy and they both worked. Why would they work on their own but not together in the Riot?

    ReplyDelete
  45. GsrrettVD24 July 2015 at 23:02

    Hey IvIark, wondering if you could have a look at my post on your forum -- I'm having a bit of trouble! http://guitar-fx-layouts.42897.x6.nabble.com/Help-with-the-Suhr-Riot-quot-Fixed-quot-Schematic-td22892.html

    Thanks

    ReplyDelete
  46. Unknown4 August 2015 at 18:21

    Guys can somebody please assist me...
    I had this working like a charm, until today, when i opened it to change the input jack, and stupidly though, it fell to the ground.... i thought it was nothing but now it doesn't work well, and the ICs are getting hot.... It sounds quieter and thinner like half of he sound has been shorted. Can somebody give me a suggestion on what could have been damaged by dropping it? It wasn't dropped from the 3rd floor i mean... just while i was standing....

    Assistance much appreciated :)

    ReplyDelete
  47. fred24 August 2015 at 04:33

    This comment has been removed by the author.

    ReplyDelete
  48. fred24 August 2015 at 04:37

    This comment has been removed by the author.

    ReplyDelete
  49. fred24 August 2015 at 05:09

    Hi guys, 1u is tantalum? or 1uf monolithic? which is the positive side on the board? can I use zener diode 1N4746 18V?

    ReplyDelete
  50. Ciaran Haslett24 August 2015 at 15:11

    Hi Fred

    The 1uf can be any non polarised cap. I'm not sure which side is which regarding polarity but you should be able to probe it when powered up to find out. And yes those diodes are fine.

    ReplyDelete
  51. Unknown10 January 2016 at 22:40

    Hello, I have question about blue led, marked side is the cathode or anode?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Zach11 January 2016 at 05:01

      cathode. but if you look at the LED's you'll notice they run anti-parallel, so as long as you keep them that way it doesn't matter which the cathode going to the switch as long as the other has the anode on the same row.

      Delete
    2. Unknown11 January 2016 at 13:06

      Thank you for the explanation, I did not think over the red because there is no meaning, but with the blue I was wondering and installed a wrong, even though it sounds great :) especially at low gain.

      Delete
    3. Unknown11 January 2016 at 13:22

      Now better :)

      Delete
  52. HGE Contraptions8 February 2016 at 08:01

    Here's mine, VERY nice pedal! One of my favs so far :)
    The person I built it for is very pleased :D
    Thank you guys!

    http://hgecontraptions.blogspot.ro/2016/02/suhr-riot-distortion-clone.html

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Anonymous28 April 2016 at 17:04

      your wirings and solderings are so NEAT!
      very good.... mine is a lot more messy....

      Delete
    2. HGE Contraptions3 May 2016 at 07:07

      Btw, I just built another one, here it is:

      http://hgecontraptions.blogspot.ro/2016/05/my-second-suhr-riot-clone-ready.html

      Here are some samples:

      single coil: https://forums.rgc.ro/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_id=262915

      humbucker(2 samples):

      https://forums.rgc.ro/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_id=262914

      https://forums.rgc.ro/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_id=262913

      Delete
    3. santravler6 October 2016 at 03:23

      nice

      Delete
  53. Anonymous28 April 2016 at 17:02

    Just built one, playing chords seems ok but when I play individual notes, it sounds a bit loose, dull and also a lot of high end is cut off....
    did I do something wrong here?

    also, when I turn up the gain, it's getting really loud...

    any advise will be very much appreciated.

    do I have

    ReplyDelete
  54. MichaelPolutta8 August 2016 at 03:52

    Mine was also very dark. With 22nF on the tone control and a 2nd 22nF to ground right after I felt that was a bit much. So I changed the 22nF on the right edge to a 4.7nF. Much better response. Recommended - but I wouldn't go any smaller. Try not quite that small first.

    Thanks for the layout!
    Michael

    ReplyDelete
  55. DiegoHino9 September 2016 at 04:56

    Have some trouble building this pedal, can someone help me pls?

    ReplyDelete
  56. Eli_Klngsmkt13 April 2018 at 01:36

    Oh my god, this layout is perfect! Just finished the pedal and when compared to my original Riot, I don't hear any difference. Also looks good in a 1590B ;-)

    I used two RC4558P op amps and 55V zeners

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. HGE Contraptions13 April 2018 at 15:35

      Funny, because you should. The 4558 is quite obviously noisier than the 4580. I hear that clearly when I swap them around in mine. I did a few for people so far, and you should hear a difference.

      Delete
    2. Eli_Klngsmkt21 April 2018 at 06:56

      My build really isnt noisy at all. But as soon as I get some 4580s I will compare them!

      Delete
    3. HGE Contraptions21 April 2018 at 13:08

      Yes, I know, it isn't inherently noisy, but try 4580, you will be surprised. I quite liked how it clearly took out hiss. Make a recording before and after. It is slight, but it really does take away the hiss. I used to mod old Ibanez GE9 Eqs with 3 x 4580 instead of the 3x4558 stock, and they were not noisy at all after.

      Delete
    4. Eli_Klngsmkt22 April 2018 at 21:57

      Very cool, thanks in advance! There was a huge improvement in my Timmy pedal when I changed the 1458 to a 4559. Always a reason for celebrating when there's less hiss and more sound ;-)

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    5. Eli_Klngsmkt12 May 2018 at 12:08

      Finally I got to compare the 4558s to 4580s and 5532P. It may sound shocking but I'll stick to the 4558s :-D.

      The 4558s sound the closest to my original Riot (I doubt anyone could distinguish one from the other) while the 4580s and 5532P add a little whistling (very quiet and not noticable when playing).

      Maybe I just got an outstanding pair of 4558s :-D

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    6. HGE Contraptions12 May 2018 at 13:15

      Hello again. Yes, soundwise the 4558 it's much cooler for sure!I totally agree, but the customer wanted to be as noise free as possible. I personally like the 4558 in it also :D

      Delete
  57. pinkster11 March 2019 at 19:12

    if ya socketed the chip, try an op275, will bring touch sensitivity to the circuit and sounds great. ;)
    peace!

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  58. ariosto2 June 2021 at 14:07

    Hi, can somebody tell me, why in my build it only works when I coonect "Tone 1-2" to the ground of the output?

    ReplyDelete
  59. ariosto2 June 2021 at 14:08

    Hi, can somebody tell me, why in my build it only works when I coonect "Tone 1-2" to the ground of the output?

    ReplyDelete
  60. Harris7 October 2021 at 09:57

    Hi people, i've built this and sounds fantastic.
    Can anyone explain how to do the presence/facemelt mod, or provide a link that explains how to?
    thanks

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  61. Unknown26 January 2022 at 19:55

    Hello ! I wanted to know if FX link could be cloned or replicated ? That system is really cool. It allow me to control the Riot from my switcher, without Loosing the ability to switch the pedal manually. I would love to add Such system to other pedals...

    Thanks

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  62. Jun d11 February 2023 at 09:39

    Built this a year ago and it is sounding nice to me. Very versatile to say. For the switch i used a rotary switch,.

    ReplyDelete