Info about the Emma original:
A unique type of OD/dist. pedal that was designed to emulate as faithfully as possible the distortion characteristics of a real tube amp.
With the inclusion of a bias control the user is allowed to adjust the inner workings of the amplifier from class B ( far left) to class A ( far right) and anywhere in between, altering the harmonic structure of the signal and providing a much wider variety of tonal options than your standard OD/ dist. pedal.
Additional controls for Level, Gain,and a Hi Cut/ Hi Boost tone circuit allow the user to fine tune the Reezafratzitz to taste.
BOM:
Resistors | 120R |
1
|
Resistors | 10K |
4
|
Resistors | 22K |
4
|
Resistors | 27K |
1
|
Resistors | 100K |
6
|
Resistors | 150K |
2
|
Resistors | 470K |
6
|
Resistors | 1M |
4
|
Capacitors | 47p |
5
|
Capacitors | 100p |
2
|
Capacitors | 1n |
2
|
Capacitors | 6n8 |
4
|
Capacitors | 47n |
2
|
Capacitors | 150n |
4
|
Capacitors | 100u |
3
|
IC | CD4069 |
1
|
Transistors | BC549 |
1
|
Modified version with additional Bass and Mids controls
BOM:
Capacitors | 47p | 5 |
Capacitors | 100p | 2 |
Capacitors | 1n | 2 |
Capacitors | 2n2 | 1 |
Capacitors | 6n8 | 4 |
Capacitors | 47n | 2 |
Capacitors | 150n | 4 |
Capacitors | 100u | 3 |
Resistors | 100K | 4 |
Resistors | 10K | 6 |
Resistors | 120R | 1 |
Resistors | 150K | 2 |
Resistors | 1M | 4 |
Resistors | 22K | 4 |
Resistors | 27K | 1 |
Resistors | 470K | 6 |
Resistors | 47K | 2 |
IC | CD4069 | 1 |
Transistors | Q1 | 1 |
WOW! that was fast :) I am going on vacation, will be back 1st of November, then I will take a stab at this beast!
ReplyDeletethank you IVIark!
Doesn't Emma make a killer filter effect?
ReplyDeleteDiscomBOBulator
DeleteShit I gotta get me one of those, sound fkin awesome with bass too :-)
Deletei'd actually like to build the one with the bass and treble controls.
ReplyDeleteI've got a modified scheme with Bass and Mids controls. I'll have a look to see how easy it would be to adapt it, although it may end up a few columns wider and looking like a bit of a pig! :o)
Deleteyeah, i saw that one on Brigg's site. for me, those two extra controls would make it alot more useful.
DeleteAdded above. Wasn't as bad as I thought and could still fit in a 1590B sideways! :o)
Deleteawesome. thanks! now i just have to go pick up a 4069 for it tomorrow.
DeleteMark I love you!
ReplyDeleteI etched a PCB months ago, but forgot to flip it while printing.... So I tried to solder the IC and the tranny on the solder side. Never got it to work put it in my "check again" drawer....
So I´ll give it a go on vero. Thanks I was looking for a vero for a long time!
Cheers,
Chris
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ReplyDelete"Mark" the original layout as verified ;)
ReplyDeleteI like the sound a lot, but its a little noisy with gain maxed!
Awesome, nice one mate
Deletejust finished the one with the mids and bass control. it works to spec but the volume is backwards, as are the bass, mids and bias control.
ReplyDeletethe manual ( http://www.emmaelectronic.com/media/RF-1%20manual.pdf) says that there's a 'thump/whoosh' sound between 2 & 5 o'clock, but mine was between 10 & 7 o'clock. reverse those pots and it should be verified.
Awesome thanks John. I got the pot numbering off the schematic as well. AARRGGHH!!!!
Deletefantastic to hear the modified layout too is verified! mark, has the layout been updated?
DeleteYes
DeleteYeah that´s what i forgot to say....
ReplyDeletewhat's next, PisdiYAUwot? :D
ReplyDeleteYeaaaa it would be awesome !
Deletefinally got my 'reeza' mounted in an enclosure tonight. i built the one with the mids and bass control. since i use mine for bass, i also added an 18V charge pump so i can switch it between 9 oand 18 Volts. on 18V it has more dynamics and sounds smoother. here's a pic of it:
ReplyDeletehttp://johnkvintageguitars.homestead.com/Effects/Fuzz-ODs/ReezaFRAT/Reeza-01.jpg
since this pedal has a buffered output, it makes it a perfect candidate for a clean blend control, so i modded mine today, added the clean blend and converted the stomp switch to a ture bypass. this pedal is awesome as a bass overdrive set up this way.
ReplyDeletehttp://johnkvintageguitars.homestead.com/Effects/Fuzz-ODs/ReezaFRAT/Reeza-01-1.jpg
How did you implement the clean control? Sounds and looks amazing!
ReplyDeleteit was super easy. just wire the stomp 4 and 6 leads to the outer lugs (1 & 3) of a 100K linear pot. then lug 2 is the output, and that goes to a 3PDT stomp switch.
DeleteHi,Ivlark! Great schematic but a little bit noisy! I want add speakersim to this layout and upload here. Can you send me layout? my mail sashurkin@ukr.net
ReplyDeleteFor BC549 B or C???
ReplyDeleteIt doesn't matter, either would be fine
Deletethanks
DeleteIt's just a unity gain buffer and so it'll be 1x gain no matter what transistor you use.
Delete"It's just a unity gain buffer and so it'll be 1x gain no matter what transistor you use."
DeleteMight be a silly question but can I use any transistors ie. 2N2369, 2N2222, 2N70000 or 2N2907? That's all I have in my house...
Thank you.
You can use any NPN bipolar transistor that has the correct pin out. 2N7000 is a mosfet, 2N2907 are PNP and so you can't use those. 2N2369 and 2N2222 would be fine though, just make sure you connect the correct pins.
DeleteThank you so much!!! will do.
DeleteIt sounds better (and louder) with a BC546
DeleteRF-1 .... sorry
ReplyDeleteStupid question... Is the Dpdt in the layout the bypass switch?
ReplyDeleteYes, it's buffered bypass and so doesn't use conventional true bypass wiring which is why I included that. If you don't want LED indication you could do it with a SPDT stomp
DeleteThanks Mark, great build. As others have said it is a bit noisy... Do you think replacing the ceramics with silver micas would help? If so looks like the 47pfs are "tamers" so would 22-68 be acceptable values?
DeleteYes I think anything from 22-68 would be fine, with higher values cutting more high end. You could certainly try the mica's, ceramics can be noisy
Deletenoise caused by chip. Try to change first stage by common source JFET.
DeleteIvIark, I asked about vero layout file for great upgrade. Can you send it?
ReplyDeleteWaiting for your ansver. Thank you!
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ReplyDeletepls need help with this one.
ReplyDeleteI soldered the board time ago and did a tidy job.
I wired everything up but all I can hear is a whistling noise (high pitch).
LED switches with stomp but noise remains in both on and off positions.
Any clue?
I used a DPDT and wired as you advised (1 to LED, 2 to ground, 3 empty, 4 to the board where indicated, 5 to output on PCB, and 6 to where indicated). I've done the modified version, and used DC 9v power... any help will be appreciated!! Thanks.
anyone please?
DeleteHave you boxed it yet? That often helps out with oscillation. If you have then you're just going to have to check for the usual suspects, most probably a poor joint somewhere or maybe an unwanted bridge.
DeleteCheck the IC pin voltages to see if that gives any clues.
thanks Ivlark, I boxed it and then took it off. Can you confirm I soldered the DPDT properly and that pin 3 needs to be left empty? Thank you again, Dom.
ReplyDeleteBuild this and it sounds wonderful! Only issue is the noise this circuit produces Compared to some other distortion pedals (Stone Grey, Dyna Red, OCD....) it puts out almost double the noise.... Any ideas how to tame it a little bit?
ReplyDeletetia Heiko
You could try increasing the 100u caps to maybe 220u to see if larger filter caps will do more about the noise.
DeleteThanks Mark! Maybe you got me wrong (because i`m not a native speaker;-)), i meant hiss that might be there by circuit design(?). It`s no power supply or grounding issue....
Deletethe noise(which is mostly hiss)is kind of the nature of the beast with pedals that use a CD4069 chip. mine's not too noisey unless I crank the gain all the way up.
DeleteThanks John, might running it at 18V help (as you do)?
Deletewhat do stomp 4 and stomp 6 stand for in terms of circuit? i mean, what is their funtion? thanks.
ReplyDeleteIt means you have to solder a wire to lugs 4 and 6 from where it says on the board. The stomp switch bypasses or engages the effect. Hope this helps
DeleteDave
Thanks Dave. Lug 4 is the effected output, lug 6 is the buffered bypass output, and the state of the stomp switch decides which is linked to lug 5 which is the main output to the socket.
DeleteThanks Ivlark and Dave, I am totally new to all this and your advise is vital to me. I wasn't sure what they represented in terms of signal stages...
ReplyDeleteI still need to fix my attempted pedal. Cheers.
Hi Mark!
ReplyDeleteWhat means this: "and also ignore the 2.5mm pitch 150n and 470K at the top right hand side."
I don't understand it :-(
Regards,
Marcell
Can nobody help me? :-(
DeleteIt means if you want to use true bypass switching instead of buffered you don't need to include the 2.5mm pitch 150n and 470K resistor at the top right hand side of the board.
DeleteThanks Mark!
DeleteNow i've to found the mistake why my pedal won't work.
All cuts, bridges, connetions etc are right. When I conneht the pedal, there coming just synthesized sounds when I turn on the poti's.
Sounds like a theremin :-D (I had many fun with it, but this isn't what i want)
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ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteHi. Is there a need for a pull down resistor to prevent popping when engaging/disengaging the footswitch? On my true bypass pedals, I usually have a 1M or 2M2 resistor to ground at the input. As this is my first pedal build with a buffered bypass, I was wondering if that somehow took care of the popping as I don't see a pull down resistor here. Thanks for any insights.
ReplyDeleteWhat kind of buffering are you using?
Delete+m
Hi mirasol,
ReplyDeleteFor this build I am going to try the built-in buffered bypass that Mark mentions in the pedal description at top. Because I've never done a buffered bypass before (only true bypass), I was unsure if a pull down resistor was needed in a buffered bypass pedal such as this. Thanks.
I think it's taken care in the circuit, as that doesn't have same type of switching.
Delete+m
I thought it might be. Thanks for the clarification.
DeleteI built the version with bass and mids controls a couple days back and it sounds great! Only issue I have (apart from the noise with the gain up, but I guess that's just the nature of the beast) is that the 'tone' control starts at 'decent amount of treble' and goes up to 'ear-destroying treble overload'. Even set half-way it sounds insanely bright - is that just how this schematic sounds, or could there be something wrong with my pedal? If so, any ideas as to what it could be? I've attempted a pretty thorough diagnosis and I can't find any bad connections or bridges or anything. I'm not too sure where specifically to look though, I'm still a bit of a noob when it comes to the actual schematics. Thanks for any help!
ReplyDeleteNever mind, spent another couple hours poking and prodding with a multimeter and a soldering iron and I seem to have fixed the problem - think it was a dodgy connection on a capacitor. Regardless, this thing rocks! Thanks for the layout, and all the hard work IvIark!
DeleteJust finished this build (bass/mids version) with a few small mods:
ReplyDelete1) Added another 120R resistor (power section) which is on the schematic but appeared to be missing on the vero layout;
2) Changed pedal to be true bypass using a standard 3pdt switch;
3) Added a 2M resistor to ground at input.
As many have commented, the pedal is very hissy and noisy at full gain. I also find that there is not much volume boost above unity when pedal is engaged and volume/level is at full (which is not a problem, just a comment) as compared to other pedals.
That all being said, the sound of this pedal is phenomenal, the distortion convincing, and the range of tonal options is huge considering the interaction of the 3 tone controls and bias knob.
This pedal has not yet hit my pedal board. As long as the noise gate on my board can control this hiss, then this pedal will have been well worth the effort. Thanks for this one!
I have maybe one stupid question. On all of your projects, including this one... I can't figure out... Are the stripes on the side of the components or the opposite?
ReplyDeleteThe board looks as it would look on x-ray. The stripes are on the opposite side from the components and when you are making your cuts you need to mirror the image left/right.
DeleteMind you, there are some instances where you also get the "flipped" strip side but then you usually get both so it's not hard to tell.
Have a look at the build guide here:
Deletehttp://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2012/04/vero-build-guide.html
You'll then be able to relate the layout to the actual build.
Niiice! Thank you very much!
DeleteDo I HAVE to put it in a box? Because I can't get it to work.
DeleteI get small hiss and low volume "retared" clean when I turn Bias pot on the right. I don't really know what the Hell I am doing wrong here...
DeleteDoes it work correctly with the bias set higher?
DeleteI for one am strongly against having bias pots outside the box, as those are in 9,9 cases out of 10 just useless and they can kill the signal. Here, i think it is a feature.
That pot just basically acts as variable resistor determing how much resistance there is before the voltage reaches the CD4069. I suspect that too much resistance (10K in this case) will make it unusable.
If the pot works ok in lower settings, i'd suggest to swap it for smaller value - like 5K or even 2K.
+m
IMO, on the Reeza, the bias pot actually is quite useful on the outside of the box.
DeleteDoes it kill the amplification on yours if set "wrong"?
Delete+m
nope. it just changes the way it clips and amount of gain.
DeleteJesus... Finally made it to work. Very nice pedal! I had two contacts soldered by accident. Only bad things I noticed it was a little more noise than expected and volume pot issue. Linear pot is maybe not ideal, because when it comes to almost full volume already on 50%. Thanks for the help guys, the pedal rawks, I strongly recommend it.
DeleteHi Stevan, I'm listing all parts to build this one so did you end up using a log volume pot instesd of a linear one? Thank you
DeleteWhat if I replaced the CD4069 with the C4069. Both are CMOS Hex converters. Does anybody know the difference?
ReplyDeleteThanks!
Anyone please?
DeleteThanks
Thank you for this layout, it sound amazing, love it. Pictures of my build:
ReplyDeletehttp://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff176/pm7300/01_zps04ea0446.jpg
http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff176/pm7300/02_zps3983c005.jpg
http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff176/pm7300/03_zps17ccef5b.jpg
http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff176/pm7300/04_zps4d66a03a.jpg
Nice looking build. What type of box is that?
DeleteThe box: http://www.pedalenclosures.com/ProductDetail/tabid/104/rvdsfpid/yy-polished-finish-5/rvdsfcatid/yy-1/language/it-IT/Default.aspx
ReplyDeleteThanks
DeleteCan you do a layout of the Pisdiyauwot? from what I've heard it should be a heavily modded Reezafratzitz.
ReplyDeleteNo schematic available, so no.
Delete+m
is the jumper on column 5 actually 2 jumpers that both go into hole 13?
ReplyDeletehere? http://prntscr.com/3yu3q1
on the modified version, sorry.
DeleteYes. That's the symbol I use for a double link, one going up and one going down from the same hole
DeleteHello ,
ReplyDeleteI need some help to debugging mine , the signal go through , led is on , but no effect , the sound stay clean. Only the tone and bias control seem to work , gain and level doesn't change anything.
Any idea ?
I changed the DPDT for a 3PDT circuit , same thing , no effect , the signal stay clean . Something wrong on the vero , but I double checked evrything , solders seems to be right . If you have suggestions about this kind of bug ... Thank you for your help.
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ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDelete