In January of 2012 I began speaking with Nicholas from Catalinbread about making us a dual overdrive pedal. I didn't have anything specific in mind. I wanted to begin the discussion of putting two of his drive pedals in one box. After a couple of meetings and many cocktails we agreed that it would make a great deal of sense to put the CB30 and Naga Viper together in one box and go after a cranked AC30 with a treble booster sound. A sound made famous by many Vox users of the 60's. We then began to think a bit more of a specific sound that we were looking for and the Galileo was born. Scaramouche! Scaramouche! Will you do the Fandango?!
Magnifico! Plug into the new Catalinbread Galileo and your brain may see stars. Catalinbread has created a hotter upgrade to their already phenomenal CB30, added a dedicated, fine tuned treble boost, courtesy of their Naga Viper circuitry, and housed it all in a single majestic gold pedal decorated with the well-earned insignia of rock and roll royalty. The Galileo delivers the regal, operatic sound you would expect from a wall of AC30s with all of the controls you need to rule your own creative realm. In addition to controls for Volume, Bass and Treble, the Gain control gives you a broad sweep of that singularly expressive overdrive while the Top Boost control lets you dial in all of the high end definition that will take your breath away. Two footswitches give you the flexibility to operate without the high-end augmentation, or opt for true bypass of the whole pedal.
Update: Oscar Jr below let me know the circuits are independently switched which makes the description bizarre. They are both apparently independent and the Naga is first in the chain from the input socket.
Update 2: It has been suggested that the 100K resistor at the bottom right near Q3 should be replaced by a 51K which inproves the sound. It may be worth experimenting here to see which you prefer.
Passive Bill of Materials:
Group Name Qty
Capacitors 100n 1
Capacitors 100n 1
Capacitors 100p 1
Capacitors 10n 1
Capacitors 10n 1
Capacitors 1n 1
Capacitors 1n 1
Capacitors 220n 1
Capacitors 22n 1
Capacitors 22n 1
Capacitors 22n 1
Capacitors 22u 1
Capacitors 2u2 1
Capacitors 2u2 1
Capacitors 330p 1
Capacitors 470p 1
Capacitors 470p 1
Capacitors 47p 1
Capacitors 47p 1
Capacitors 47u 1
Capacitors 47u 1
Capacitors 4n7 1
Resistors 100K 1
Resistors 100K 1
Resistors 100K 1
Resistors 12K 1
Resistors 1M 1
Resistors 1M 1
Resistors 1M 1
Resistors 1M 1
Resistors 1M 1
Resistors 220K 1
Resistors 2M2 1
Resistors 2M2 1
Resistors 390R 1
Resistors 390R 1
Resistors 470K 1
Resistors 470K 1
Resistors 470R 1
Resistors 47K 1
Resistors 4K7 1
Resistors 4K7 1
Resistors 4K7 1
Resistors 4K7 1
Resistors 56K 1
Resistors 68K 1
Resistors 8K2 1
Capacitors 100n 1
Capacitors 100n 1
Capacitors 100p 1
Capacitors 10n 1
Capacitors 10n 1
Capacitors 1n 1
Capacitors 1n 1
Capacitors 220n 1
Capacitors 22n 1
Capacitors 22n 1
Capacitors 22n 1
Capacitors 22u 1
Capacitors 2u2 1
Capacitors 2u2 1
Capacitors 330p 1
Capacitors 470p 1
Capacitors 470p 1
Capacitors 47p 1
Capacitors 47p 1
Capacitors 47u 1
Capacitors 47u 1
Capacitors 4n7 1
Resistors 100K 1
Resistors 100K 1
Resistors 100K 1
Resistors 12K 1
Resistors 1M 1
Resistors 1M 1
Resistors 1M 1
Resistors 1M 1
Resistors 1M 1
Resistors 220K 1
Resistors 2M2 1
Resistors 2M2 1
Resistors 390R 1
Resistors 390R 1
Resistors 470K 1
Resistors 470K 1
Resistors 470R 1
Resistors 47K 1
Resistors 4K7 1
Resistors 4K7 1
Resistors 4K7 1
Resistors 4K7 1
Resistors 56K 1
Resistors 68K 1
Resistors 8K2 1
The original has the switches as two independent effects. I remebering testing it and enabling the Naga as a Trebble Boost only.
ReplyDeleteExcited to build this one!
Are you sure? That certainly isn't how the description reads, or the labels on the pedal suggests. They've described that shockingly if they are switched independently.
ReplyDeletePretty sure, but now you got me thinking.... Well I`m building it right now. Will report once finished
DeleteI just asked a guy on FSB and he confirms what you said, he also said that that Naga is first and then the CB30. So thanks for the heads up. Really stupid way for them to describe it which bears no resemblance to how it actually switches.
ReplyDeleteYeah that`s what I thought.. So Naga INTO Galileo CB30. Populating the board now..
ReplyDeleteYep definitely the boost first
DeleteTOO COOL! Gonna get onto this rockin' box tonight! Cheers Mark ;0)
ReplyDeleteverified, my little ampmaker se5 is singing like an ac30 on steroids, absolutely awesome, thanks for anoer fantastic layout mate ;-)
ReplyDeleteAwesome, cheers matey
DeleteOK, VERY VERIFIED!! :-) One of the coolest pedals around for sure! Thanks MARK!
ReplyDeleteGlad you're both liking it!
ReplyDeleteHi there,
ReplyDeleteSounds like a really good choice for that super English rocking sound.
Did anyone here compare the Galileo to the Runoffgroove combination of the OMEGA+ENGLISH CHANNEL? It seems they should be quite close in terms of sound and feel.
I play a lot with the ROG combination and really love it, although using humbuckers makes it very difficult to get any clean sound on low settings when pedals are engaged. Did you guys find that the Galileo had the range of clean signal even with humbuckers? (I know the Treble booster "dirts" the sound a bit).
Thanks,
Doron
The Galileo dinamycs are top5 the best I`ve ever heard in a pedal. Even with the Top Boost engaged if you`re playing PAF style pickups it cleans nicely to that throaty jangly VOX sound. Really really cool!
DeleteI don`t know the ROG combo, but this is by far the best VOX in a Box pedal I`ve ever played.
Thanks for the info and recommendation. I might have to try this one out after all. Never could resist that jangly AC sound.
ReplyDeleteI'm having trouble sourcing a 500K Log pot for the gain. Is there a way to make a 1M Log into one, or should I use a 470K Log pot as a substitute?
ReplyDeleteCheck taydaelectronics.
DeleteOr you could use that 1M log with 1M resistor soldered between lugs 1 and 3. That makes the pot 500K, but the taper gets some deviation from the logarithmic curve - i don't think it'll work any different though.
+m
I've built 2of these and used a 470k pot in the second build as I had run out of 500k too, I haven't noticed any real difference between the 2 so I'd go with the 470k log pot.
DeleteYes I often use 470K where 500K is shown in the schematic. It's within 10% so I wouldn't worry.
DeleteBuilt the pedal, sounds awesome. Getting a bit of clicking/popping when using the 3pdt's, more so with the boost switch when the main board is also on. Can I add a cap or resistor somewhere to eliminate? Second question. Can the boost stage be built separately and what would be included (or excluded)?
DeleteSolder a 1M resistor on the switch between the board input lug and the ground for the LED. That is a pulldown resistor which will sort out any pops due to the input cap. If you still get pops then you need to look at this and adapt your LED wiring:
Deletehttp://www.muzique.com/lab/led.htm
Thanks!
Deletetry at Smallbear - SKU: 1005A
ReplyDeleteIt would be awesome if every build had a parts list. I know this is a ridiculous imposition.
ReplyDeleteA few people have mentioned this and I agree that it would be useful to some people, but I haven't generally done it for a couple of reasons. The main reason I don't is because I originally started doing these layouts for myself only and I've got quite a big hoard of parts and so I know that whatever is in the circuit, at whatever value, I will have. So for me I never wanted to have to cross reference R1 being a 10K resistor like in a lot of the layouts, and make the extra work for myself. I just wanted to quickly see what value is in what position, stuff the board, turn it over and solder. Fair enough for the past couple of years I've been sharing the layouts on here and so they're not just for my benefit but my old routine has stuck based on how I prefer to use the layouts myself (selfish I know :o). There is a bill of material output for DIY Layout Creator V2, but if I had to fill in components number and value in each component I simply wouldn't get as many done because It'd mean extra cross referencing with every layout I do.
DeleteSo yes I could do it and in some cases I do like with the Klon so that the resistor and capacitor values and quantities are shown which is helpful with it being a bigger circuit, but haven't done it with every layout because I thought that if the layout took me 2 hours to do, I'm sure someone wouldn't mind spending 5 minutes putting their own bill of materials together if they don't stash components like me and need to buy specifically for every build. Because even with the layouts which include a bill of materials in components number order, you would still have to dissect it to count up how many resistors and capacitors at each value you needed.
With larger layouts like this I may include the BOM for all the passives though. That wouldn't take much more work. But I only want to do it if the format it is in adds value to the layouts. For instance, this is the passive BOM export of this layout which shows values but would still need work to come up with the final quantity list for each value:
Group Name Qty
Capacitors 100n 1
Capacitors 100n 1
Capacitors 100p 1
Capacitors 10n 1
Capacitors 10n 1
Capacitors 1n 1
Capacitors 1n 1
Capacitors 220n 1
Capacitors 22n 1
Capacitors 22n 1
Capacitors 22n 1
Capacitors 22u 1
Capacitors 2u2 1
Capacitors 2u2 1
Capacitors 330p 1
Capacitors 470p 1
Capacitors 470p 1
Capacitors 47p 1
Capacitors 47p 1
Capacitors 47u 1
Capacitors 47u 1
Capacitors 4n7 1
Resistors 100K 1
Resistors 100K 1
Resistors 100K 1
Resistors 12K 1
Resistors 1M 1
Resistors 1M 1
Resistors 1M 1
Resistors 1M 1
Resistors 1M 1
Resistors 220K 1
Resistors 2M2 1
Resistors 2M2 1
Resistors 390R 1
Resistors 390R 1
Resistors 470K 1
Resistors 470K 1
Resistors 470R 1
Resistors 47K 1
Resistors 4K7 1
Resistors 4K7 1
Resistors 4K7 1
Resistors 4K7 1
Resistors 56K 1
Resistors 68K 1
Resistors 8K2 1
I just checked and I can use a fixed width font in the main posts (see above) so if people think this is worthwhile I'll start doing it from now on, and will add it to older layouts as and when I get the chance (but probably only for big layouts because otherwise it would be a huge amount of work).
DeleteYou are frickin' amazing! This kind of BOM is a godsend for those of us who are trying to make the transition from building kits, to trying our hands at building from scratch.
DeleteOh, and if anyone here is near San Francisco and is willing to hang out and solder some circuits with me, please ping me! I have strong soldering skills, but really crappy electrical-engineering knowledge. I would love to sponge off your experience, to get myself to the point where I can knock out my own pedal-builds competently.
This is very helpful. Thanks for all your hard work.
ReplyDeleteHere's the way I like to look at the BOM to make sure I have everything or before I order parts and see what I have and what I don't. I also like to sort the values bottom to top. The columns are tab delimited if you want to Excel it later.
ReplyDeleteBill of Materials:
Value Qty
Resistors
390R 2
470R 1
4K7 4
8K2 1
12K 1
47K 1
56K 1
68K 1
100K 3
220K 1
470K 2
1M 5
2M2 2
Capacitors
47p 2
100p 1
330p 1
470p 2
1n 2
4n7 1
10n 2
22n 3
100n 2
220n 1
2u2 2
22u 1
47u 2
Pots
10kB 1
100kA 1
500kA 1
1MA 2
Transistors
2N5457 5
2N222A 1
Thanks for that
DeleteHi Guys,
ReplyDeletewould you say that i could safely use a 50uF axial electrolytic instead of the big axial 47uF in this layout? I just stumbled upon a nice Sprague Atom 50uF in my parts bin and would like to use it here...
My guess is that from 47 to 50 uF should be no problem and might even be in the range of usual differences in manufacturing tolerances, right?
I would say that the difference is not an issue here. Make sure you get the polarization orientation right.
DeleteI would say that the difference is not an issue here. Make sure you get the polarization orientation right.
DeleteI would say that the difference is not an issue here. Make sure you get the polarization orientation right.
DeleteI would say that the difference is not an issue here. Make sure you get the polarization orientation right.
DeleteSolder up the stomp as usual, but instead of lug 5 going to the input of the board (assuming you're using the offboard wiring layout here), take it to a 2 position DPDT switch first which will be be the true bypass switch for the booster. The output of that switch then goes to the input connection of the board.
ReplyDeleteHi Ravian, a few quick questions, as i am also currently building a Galileo:
ReplyDelete1. Did you just omit the 47k going to gain lug 1 completely? Or did you put in a jumper wire instead?
2. Is the bass pot wiring confirmed like you say then? I prewired my pots yesterday (added the cut-to-size wires) and connected bass 3 and treble 1 already, but haven't added the pots into the board, as i am still waiting on a few final components to finish the board.
That's why i won't be able to test this!
Sorry, i got one more question regarding this build:
ReplyDeleteI'm using 3pdt wiring boards for both of the 3pdt switches, which include connections for a status LED including their current limiting resistor.
So i could just omit the two 4k7 resistors top left on the layout and the LED+ connections, right?
Thank you!
Thank you Ravian! :-)=
Delete1. A jumper would do the same, as the 47k is connected to ground anyway...
ReplyDelete2. Confirmed, rewiring the bass pot makes bass increase when turning it CW. The taper of the pot is much smoother wired this way, so....
Indeed, i´m very impressed by the tone of this pedal;-). Did you test it at band or bedroom level?
ReplyDeleteMark, do you know if we have to bias these 5457s like we do for J201s? I didn`t check on my build, but was just wondering and thought I`d raise the question.
ReplyDeleteThey are muamp pairs and from what I've read it seems they aren't as susceptible to biasing issues so I'd say not to bother. You could replace the 390R source resistors for Q1 and Q3 with trimmers if you want to experiment, and the 4K7 at Q5 source. You can ignore Q2 and Q4.
DeleteI thought of that too. Just asking cause mine works fine, but when I boxed it up the volume seems to be just equal to line when MAX... Maybe it's just that i'm running it in 9V, but I thought I could have some bias issues..
DeleteThanks
OK, put the charge pump in and it does make an immediate difference. More HeadRoom sounds bigger overall and balanced. I also put a 100k resiste in paralel with the 100k resistor close to Q3 to make a 51k(ish) and it also does improve the sound. Not as harsh in the high I think. My only concern is with the volume of the pedal. Still with the charge pump just over the line volume. Is that what you guys are perceiving as well?
ReplyDeleteHi, my build is now finished too (just awaiting the ordered knobs), a really awesome pedal! Thank you so much for your vero layout again Mark!
DeleteNow regarding output volume, my build has the same "issue":
You have to fully crank the volume pot to have equal volume compared to the bypass state. This pot seems to be able to cut output volume only?
If i also crank the gain and maybe use the trebleboost, then the signal gets a bit louder than the perceived bypass volume.
The pedal sounds great, so i don't consider this a fault, i'd just also like to know if you other guys having built one also experience this behaviour with your builds?
I also used a 51K resistor at the bottom right near Q3, btw.
@Oscar Jr.: Did you build your charge pump circuit onto an extra vero board? Which layout did you use and how did you connect it to the Galileo board then?
Cheers! :-)=
Yeah maybe that`s a characteristic of the pedal. It`s supposed to be a AmpLike pedal and not really a Distortion/Drive/Boost type of effect actually. I built my charge pump on a separate board using Marks layout with the 7660S IC. The pedal really beneffits from the 18v to really behave like an AMP!!
DeleteOk, so Blend from FSB says:
ReplyDelete"from manual Galileo :"The Volume knob sets the output level of the left side, AC30, channel. Depending on your guitar, amp, and
other eff ects used, you’ll fi nd unity about the same volume as pedal on between noon and 3:00."
I guess our "problem" is not really a problem. It does have low volume!
Thanks for the info Oscar
DeleteDone. Awesome ; most amp like pedal ever played....Bass pot wiring is still reverse I think, needs to be changed. To reduce the treble if I replace the 1MA pot with a 500KA will it work? and thanks a lot Mark, for another wonderful layout.
ReplyDeleteGot a confusion in wiring up the pedal...Can I use the wiring scheme as here only , by using 2 3pdt switches and common ground wires?
ReplyDeleteSorry, this one
ReplyDeletehttp://www.generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/two_in_one_wiring.pdf
Yes you could use that no problem. TB Input and TB Output to the first switch, and Input and Vol 2 to the second.
Delete{\rtf1\ansi\ansicpg1252
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\outl0\strokewidth0 \strokec2 Hi Mark,\
\
Regarding the wiring about, does the input go to the centre lug of the CB30 switch and the wire from volume 2 go to the lug on the top row/far right (up one, right one from the centre lug)?\
\
First stab at a from scratch so all is rather confusing at the moment!\
\
}
The input and volume 2 are the input and output of the main CB30 circuit. The TB input and TB output are the in and out for the Naga boost section. They go to separate stomp switches and are wired as per the layout shown in the Offboard Wiring page in the main menu above.
DeleteAnd the boost section is first in switching order.
Thanks Mark
ReplyDeleteI might just attempt to build this pedal in the near future, but I have a question I hope someone could answer for me before I do it all wrong. Regarding the switch wiring, do I use the dual-effect example or the switchable boost example?
ReplyDeleteDo it as a dual effect, then you can switch the boost on independently. And as the Naga Viper is well regarded in its own right, it's well worth having the ability to do that.
DeleteThanks, Mark, and well-done on such an amazing site.
ReplyDeleteHi there,
ReplyDeletei'd like to show you guys my finished Galileo pedal:
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/2696342/diy/Quasimonobread-Galileo.jpg
I finally added a switchable 18V charge pump in there too, this thing really shines with the 18V!
A fantastic pedal, thanks so much again for supplying the layout Mark! :-)=
Oh, and i tend to believe that the mammoth russian K42Y-2 PIO (100n at the input) cap helps with the sonic capabilities too! ;-D=
DeleteAwesome, looks really good. And I've got a lot of those Russian PIOs, I'm going to have to come out with a few layouts specifically for them.
DeleteHas anyone uploaded a video of a completed build to youtube? I'd love to see how this layout sounds compared to the catalinbread original
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteI've just built this up but didnt have a 100p cap and used a 120p cap instead, is that OK? All the other parts i've used were correct. Thanks for the awesome layout.
ReplyDeleteYes no problem
DeleteI managed to get the Galileo quite comfortably into a 125B, however, the top boost seems to be playing up. The first third of the pot produces a hum, the middle third gives clean sound, and the last third produces that same hum, any ideas what's wrong? I've checked the wiring (three times) that's okay, I've checked the pot, it's a 10k Lin. Can't think what the problem is. Help, please!
ReplyDeleteIs there anyone who can help?
DeleteThe layout is definitely right so the issue is either a problem with the build, or a component. You're going to have to closely check for an unwanted bridge, maybe with a loupe or similar so you can get a goodclose up view. Also try reflowing the solder which will sort out any potential cold joints. Pay close attention to where the TBoost lug 1 connects which is the ground connection, and also the link attaching to that row. Redo the track cuts so you know they are true.
DeleteIf in the end you are 100% positive that the build is good, then
that only leaves a problem with a component which will mean checking them all.
This is just a though, but.. I recall one issue i had with completely different build - I had pot lugs touching the enclosure in a bad manner. That made the pot act up in a similar way to yours. Does the pot work when it's not attached to the box?
Delete+m
Not tried it out of box, miro, did all the soldering with pots in situ. So, yeah, maybe a drop of solder ran down the lug and is contacting with the box. I'll have a look at that before I dismantle it completely. Thanks, miro.
DeleteMark L.
Might not help here, but i've learned to solder all pots before before screwing them in. That way i can get cleaner joints on the lugs. Only downside is that it's too easy to assume wire length incorrectly - resulting in too long or too short. Nowadays i use heat shrink tube over the pot lugs, so that there's less chance for unwanted connections.
Delete+m
Certainly worth thinking about, miro. I'll get back to you if I find the problem, it might help others in the future.
DeleteMark L.
Thanks, Mark, I really have no doubt that your layout is right, and agree that it could be my fault or a component issue. But if someone had come across this problem with another build, they may have known what was causing it and offered a quick-fix. But I will go over the build as you suggest, maybe even change the pot in case that is faulty.
ReplyDeleteThanks again for your help, Mark, it's very much appreciated.
Mark L.
So Catalinbread's site states that this is a "souped up" version of the CB30. I was thinking itd be way cooler to build at least the 3 knob naga viper with the CB30 in one box- or even better... a germanium treble booster like the keeley java head! I'm not that big of a fan of the naga viper- anyone else think it sounds nothing like a rangemaster?
ReplyDeleteregardless, i'm interested in knowing whether the CB30 in the Galileo circuit is different from the stand alone cb30?
This comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteOkay, I found what the problem was. I was using a switchable voltage PSU, and that seemed to cause the humming I've been experiencing. I plugged in a regulated 9v PSU and WOW!!! This has to be the best sounding pedal I have ever heard in my entire life. Thanks, Mark, for the layout, you're the best. And now I'll just HAVE to get a "Red Special" for crimbo, to give this pedal the tones it was created for.
ReplyDelete"Well chuffed".
soo... i find it interesting that the comments for the CB30 layout on this site are all "this sounds nothing like the catalinbread original"- and several people going on about how bad this circuit sounds. but the galileo has tons of praise! has the cb30 been corrected since it first debuted here? arent they the exact same circuits?
ReplyDeleteanyone enlighten a brotha? I was hoping to put a cb30 in a box with a rangemaster instead of the naga viper
A couple of pics of my build.
ReplyDeletehttp://ubuntuone.com/1KGlqDMfSbpCRXy1er9tpW
http://ubuntuone.com/42QVUZ33TT9VVySHbV4iDV
James
Excellent jobs James, thanks for all the pics
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
DeleteThank you for all your and Miro's efforts.
Deleteas painted designs please someone help!
ReplyDeleteHi, I'm having some trouble with the off-board wiring on this one, could you direct me to a diagram or give me some guidance? At the moment whenever i engage the top boost it cuts the signal out, when i run it on its own its very quiet. First time i've done a dual stomp pedal so just a little confused with the pedal having 2 inputs and outputs from the board. Cheers :)
ReplyDeleteHi, check out the dual effect example at http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.co.uk/2012/02/offboard-wiring.html
DeleteThanks, it turned out to be a wrongly oriented transistor that was confusing matters :)
ReplyDeleteThis one is my current Holy Grail, after building SHO, ZenDrive, and Landgraff D.O. Can someone recommend the best enclosure size? I have about 20 enclosures, but can't figure out which would be best.
ReplyDeleteI've seen someone put this in a 125B box, but I'd probably recommend a 1590BB which will give you a bit more room and should make things easier.
DeleteI just finished soldering the boards for two of these and tested the CB30 side of one of them on my prototyper. It sounds absurdly good. This is a phenomenal pedal.
DeleteVolume is definitely a bit weak. Would be nice to pair this with a good, clean boost.
Am gonna try to fit these into 125B enclosures. . .
Uh oh, I just drilled a 1590BB and am about to wire everything up, but I suddenly realized that I am not sure I understand how the offboard wiring should take into account that the Naga Viper is first from the input. I am using the "Offboard wiring with switchable boost" diagram.
ReplyDeleteShould I assume that the boost and effect stompswitches are exchanged in the diagram?
Okay, I tried wiring the Galileo as in the "Offboard wiring with switchable pre-boost" but I ran into following problems:
ReplyDelete1. What connects to Lug 7 on the Bypass switch? Should I connect it to Volume 2?
2. Should I still connect Lug 8 to the Tip on Output jack?
This is my first time doing offboard wiring for a double-effect and I am a bit confused :-(
Please help!
If you wired it up like this guide:
Deletehttp://2.bp.blogspot.com/-J3EhMIZQLck/UH6a8ZnzSFI/AAAAAAAADHE/ewTfTXuvTYA/s1600/!Offboard+Wiring+with+switchable+pre-effect+booster.png
Then volume 2 connects lug 7 of the bypass switch. And yes. Lug 8 to output jack.
+m
Thanks, Mirosol! To clarify:
DeleteI only need to run one 9v connection, to the board. I don't need to run the extra 9v connections, in the Offboard diagram, because the board powers the LEDs and connects to Lug 1 on both switches?
Yes the layout diagram is representative and needs adapting to any layout to take into account current limiting resistors already being present etc.
DeleteOkay, I am officially an idiot: both effects work fine--just having a bit of LED wonkiness on one side that made me think I had bigger problems.
DeleteCB30 effect sounds great, but is anemic. I am definitely wiring up some charge-pumps for this one. Unfortunately, I used 16v tantalum 22uf, and 25v 4.7uf and 47uf, so gotta pull those off the boards and put some higher voltage caps in those spots, before adding voltage-doubler.
The Vox effect would be really nice with a SHO or 3-knob Naga Viper in the same box. Much prefer a full-spectrum boost to just the treble-boost. My ears start to bleed ;-)
Thanks again, Mark & Mirosol! You guys are a godsend for n00bs.
I find the booster side too treble-y. I know it's a treble booster but how can I change that?
ReplyDeleteTry experimenting with the 4n7 to the right of Q6
DeleteI replaced it with a AMZ Booster and I like it a lot more!
DeleteHi,
ReplyDeleteMade this little beauty this week and like it heaps.
Its different than other O/Ds because its not smooth and warm ,its trebly and have to experiment a bit with treb,bass controls and guitar pots which is good.
Like the booster as well,sort of has a half cocked wah ,nasely sound,when cranked.
This is a great different O/D if youre looking.
Whats that big 47uF cap for ? I just used a small 50v can cap for that and it sounds good.
Wiiiiiiicked,Cheers. :-)
Can someone explain exactly how I'd work this out with the full 3 knob Naga-Viper in place of the pared-down version?
ReplyDelete... Or can someone explain how to eliminate the naga viper entirely from the schem? I might want to put this after my other ODs, and put a boost in front of all of them (if that makes any sense). From what I understand, the CB30 side of this unit sounds much better than the actual CB30 schem does.
ReplyDeleteSo what is the final conclusion on these bass and treble pots? I also wired it both the original way and rewired it as someone else here suggested.
ReplyDeleteThe way marked on the guide makes it so the bass knob is kind of unpredictable, turning it fully clockwise is not the highest bass position, in fact, bass seems to be highest somewhere in the bottom third of the pot (it interacts really strangely with the treble pot).
Rewiring it has made things normal, but now I would like to know how the original/actual galileo pedal is wired. what was the source for these instructions? Thanks.
I'm getting a lot less gain than in the video, any other trannies I could try? What kid of HFEs should I be aiming for here?
ReplyDeletehi,
ReplyDeletefirst thanks for this great homepage! i have just built this little bastard and having some problems. the tb is working, also the top boost. unfortunately the cb30 thing wont make any noise. ive double checked my wiring and cant find any mistage. ive checked if there are any bridges, nope. offboard is like the "dual wiring". any advice how to detect the mistake? has anyone already measured the voltages on q1 - q6?
thanks!
Hi,
ReplyDeleteDo you have a PCB layout, ore a the schematic of this effect?
Hi Jasper, I'm working on a single-sided PCB of the Jubal81's Voxy Brown pedal, a clone of the CBread Galileo.
Deletehttp://juansolo.demon.co.uk/stompage/schematics/Jubal81/Voxy%20Doc.pdf
In fact, I've checked and re-checked my layout but I'd like it to be verified by another DIYer(s) before etching any board.
Would you like to have a look at it?
Of course, this question is for any of YOU ALL!!! ;-)
DeleteBeen looking for a pcb for this too, I`ll look at it if you want to post or email your layout
DeleteHi dexxyy,
DeleteYou can find it here:
http://www.casimages.com/img.php?i=131129064150176651.png
Components are numbered as in the Voxy Doc linked above.
If my layout is correct, I'll post a PDF document with a good scaled "ready-to-print" image.
Thank for your help!
Just finished. Not a great Vox fan, but this pedal can get some really interesting sounds with the two effects ON.
ReplyDeleteHope you like it:
https://scontent-a-mad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/1474500_579739568764562_1724855059_n.jpg
Ha ha, great job. I saw it on Facebook before :o)
DeletePlease can someone help me on this one? :-(
ReplyDeleteI have build second one and it stops (test with probe) on same spot, at 330p cap upper lug...it is definitely problem with my build but I can't find the solution. Here are pics:
http://tinypic.com/r/15xv68n/5
http://tinypic.com/r/ih3b42/5
http://tinypic.com/r/2ew1qo4/5
Maybe some of you will know what is wrong.
Anyone? :-( I have ditched naga switch out and kept only CB30's but no change...please can anyone help me...:-((((((
ReplyDeleteMark, Miro,...please can You guys just take a look at this?...I could really use your help...
DeleteAm I being ignored?
DeleteYou're not being ignored by me, I just don't know the answer to your question. The layout works so there is a problem with your build which is very difficult for us to fix looking at pictures unless there is something obvious, which there isn't to me.
DeleteThanks...ok but it does same on both builds and I have change even a pots. I have ordered to-92 2n2222a's, is it maybe in metal 2n2222a? I don't know what is wrong I hoped that some hawkeye will spot something I missed...can you give me some advice tough sound stops on 330p cap? I don't have any more 5457's and can I substitute it and with what?
Deleteif the signal stops at the upper lug of the 330p then it seems like something is wrong early in the signal path as the signal only has to pass the 100n to reach the 330p. try checking the 100n cap, the input wire and knife the tracks either side of the input row and the 330p,
DeleteHmm...sorry but I don't understand...how can it be wrong with 100n if signal goes trough it?
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
Deleteoops my bad, I didn't spot the cut under 1n
DeleteAre you getting signal at lower leg of 330p?
DeleteYes which side of the 330p do you lose signal, and where did you get the 2N5457 from? If you've had the same problem in two builds, and considering your parts placement seems to be good, then it straingly suggests a faulty batch of components, and alarm bells always go off for me where JFETs are concerned.
Deleteat bottom leg i get signal, it is low on volume but it is present. also i have bought jfets from tayda, is there a some voltages that i can check? what are the values? i don't doubt in this vero, i know that i have faulty component but can't find what is it. can I put in some other jfets just to test whole circuit?
DeleteWell the point where you are losing it is a good guide to the faulty component OR a problem somewhere else on the same track, So check the other components attached to the same section of rail, micro bridges and cuts. You could also be losing it at the top part of the 330p (the signal path goes from the drain of Q1 through the 470p to the Gain pot.
DeleteBut as I say I'm always suspicious of JFETs now, if you have any others you can try then I'd certainly recommend it especially if they are confirmed to be good with another circuit, but I'd also seriously recommend getting a few of these:
http://www.taydaelectronics.com/connectors-sockets/sockets/sip-sockets/30-pin-dip-sip-ic-sockets-adaptor-solder-type.html
To use, particularly with something as temperamental as a JFET. You need to have the ability to quickly swap them because desoldering and resoldering can get old very quickly. I wouldn't dream of building an effect up without them. Even for non temperamental bipolar transistors it's useful to audition different types with different gain to get the best sound you can out of the effect.
I was searching for this but didn't know how is called, thanks I will order it now. Also about this build, I do get signal on bottom left jfet on ground leg but on source and drain no. I have two of 5457's more and will try them out. I will report back with my find.
DeleteI have swaped q1 and nothing...this is really confusing...
Deleteswapped q1 with what? Have you checked the other components on the rail and checked for bridges etc as Mark suggested? You also need to be careful not to apply too much heat when soldering jfets, ic`s etc directly to the board as they can be damaged, another good reason for using sockets.
DeleteSwaped it with another...I'm cerful with heat, I know how sensitive they are. I have double checked rail, nothing. Can you guys tell what can be reason to sound not pass capacitor other than it is faulty? is there other comoponent on path that is pulling sound from it or the sound runs on its own? I'm was looking forward to place this on my board but still no solution for this...
DeleteThat capacitor isn't in the main signal path, that goes from Q1 drain through the 470p cap to the gain pot
DeleteIt isn't? I was talking about 330p...ok but I general what can be a reason? cause? (I'm refering to a question I asked in last post).
DeleteDodgy JFETs (your entire batch could be suspect which may be why replacing one doesn't help), or something else on the same row pulling it down, misplaced component, unwanted short, cold joint.
DeleteAs you've done it twice it's unlikely to be a short or misplaced components so that leaves a faulty component. Personally I'd get new ones of all the components in that first section and measure them to see if any may be faulty. All caps and resistors. If you rule that out then it points even more to the JFETs.
Then it is jfets...I have done that check today. I have ordered new jfets with sockets and will report back....thanks for help.
DeleteHave you got treble 3 to bass 3? it should be treble 1 to bass 3. I can't see that being the problem but maybe check all offboard wiring too.
DeleteI have put sockets and new jfets and it is the same. I don't know what is wrong...sound ends on upper 330p cap and on naga part it ends on 1nf cap...
DeleteI have wired it as two in one box with naga first from input...
I get sound on ground lug of q1 and on base lug of q6 (naga part)...also on 330p down lug sound is low on volume....
does this give anyone a clue what can it be wrong?
Anyone? Any idea?...I don't like to ask this but is layout ok? I know it is, but just to make sure...I'm so sad for this...I really don't know what it is with this...
Deleteyeah the layout is definitely correct, there are numerous confirmed builds. I`m almost finished building another I`ll re-check it when done as my other build was "borrowed"
DeleteOk. Thanks for help.
DeleteOk, built another one and again it works fine. You should be getting signal at the upper leg of 330p so there must be something wrong in that row. check that area again for micro bridges, faulty components or cold solder joints.
DeleteOk. Just to be sure, by "that row" you mean entire row of upper leg of 330p and components are 22nf, 470p and source of q2? do you get sound on all legs of q1? and on all legs of resistors on down left side around q1? is sound on bottom leg of 330p a bit of low volume? Mine is, does that mean anything?
DeleteHi again,
DeleteI must say that I can't find anything wrong on row that you said...this is very frustrating...what can common go wrong, besides solder bridges? What sort of switch wiring scheme do you guys use?
I am thoroughly pleased. it took longer to build than anything I have ever built --mostly because there is so much to be careful about not mixing up that I took it easy, which payed off cause nothing went wrong-- and is also the most rewarding. I have never played a solid state that sounded so tube as this. gorgeous. thank you so much for the best 20 dollars I have ever spent.
ReplyDeleteExtremely good! As we say in Portuguese "Really Cool!" or "Muito Foda!!!"
ReplyDeleteExcellent dynamic... Sounds perfect!
Is it possible to add a volume pot in the output of "top boost" to prevent changes in volume when the naga viper is triggered? Does it make sense? what would be the appropriate value in case of positive?
Yes, just take the TB Output wire to lug 3 of a new volume pot. Take lug 1 to ground, and then lug 2 is your new output to the switch
DeleteMuito Obrigado! (thanks a lot!)
DeleteI chose to use a 4PDT switch on CB30 and 3ptd on TB ... So the TB does not work alone ... If anyone interested in sending the wiring schematic. Congratulations again for your work. It's a good lesson for us all to see someone share knowledge so generously : )
This comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteDeleted last comment - it was a bad cap. This pedal is amazing. I had to reverse bass-pot wires to get the proper CW=more. The knobs are very interactive. Got a great Tie Your Mother Down tone.
ReplyDeleteI am liking this pedal but the treble boost is just not doing the pedal any favours in my opinion. I might up the values for the input and output caps around the 2n2222, but what is the 47pF cap from collector to base doing? I very very vaguely remember reading something about the miller's effect (or some other name) but i'm not sure.
ReplyDeleteYes it's the Miller effect. Basically that cap creates a filter which rolls off top end, so if you want to lose some brightness then you could try increasing it. Personally I'd socket it to let you audition a few.
DeleteAwesome, i'll give that a shot first and see what the result is. Thanks Mark.
DeleteI finished this one yesterday evening and it's sounds very nice, my little tweed 5f1 sang like an AC30 :-)
ReplyDeleteI built it with a 18v charge pump, without volume unity was around 4 o clock which didn't feel right to me.
Here is a pic of my build : http://nsm08.casimages.com/img/2014/05/27/14052712053514005912269485.jpg
Nice job! Thanks for the pic
DeleteHi, everyone!
ReplyDeleteMy stomp is wired with the IvIark "Switchable Pre-Boost" layout, and when I switch the boost on while OD is engaged, I get a LOUD pop, as a few people here.
I tried everything listed above as Muzique's LED wiring, switch swapping, etc... and nothing makes any difference. Except a 1M pulldown resistor on Boost input that makes pop a little lower. But it's still here.
BTW, when I tried millenium bypass 2 (that was inefficient), LED was always on. Exactly, on first seconds, when switch was "off", LED was off but slowly returning to "on". After that, Led was always on.
Any idea about all this?
Hi,
ReplyDeleteI find what was wrong: Boost needed pulldown resistor on input AND output.
No pop at all!
For now, on a second build (wanted to try the "51k" mod), I have a problem with the "Treble" pot. It acts like a volume pot and as if it were inverted: the more I turn it CW, the less I have volume with a little touch of crap in the sound.
CCW, the pedal sound's like the same pot is fully CW on a correct build. :-$
I've been working on it for 3 hours today, but I don't find anything wrong.
So pot is in the right way and fully functionnal, and I made continuity tests looking for bad solder joints and micro bridges. But problem is still there.
What does it sound like for you?
For those interested in modifying your existing board to have a stock Naga Viper driving the Galileo...
ReplyDeleteIn a nutshell, I removed 3 resistors, changed 2 caps, moved 1 of the caps, added 4 links, 3 cuts, a 68nf capacitor, 2 potentiometers, and wired up the CLRs offboard.
I also drilled 2 new holes for the Heat and Range controls.
Sounds like a lot, but it was fairly easy considering the board was already populated. Cost about $2.25 and took about 45 minutes start to finish.
You will need the following: A 68n cap, a 1K linear pot, a 500k log pot and a 40u cap if you have one...or can get one...or can make one (otherwise you can re-use the 47u that you will be removing from the board). You will also need an enclosure that will accommodate the additional 2 controls/knobs and you'll need some heat shrink or electrical tape if you don't use daughterboards for the LEDs and CLRs.
Here is how I did it:
1. Remove the 470R, both 4k7 CLRs and the radial 47u.(You can reuse the 4k7s and the 47u if you don't have a 40u)
2. Remove LED+ and TB LED+ wires from the board. (You will re-attach them to the now offboard CLRs later)
3, Add trace cuts at R3C3, R5C3 and R10C5 (Topside view - new trace cuts at Row 3, Column 3 and Row 5, Column 3 and Row 10, Column 5)
4. Add links from R3C2 to R4C2, another from R5C2 to R6C2 another from R1C3 to R1C5 and one more from R10C3 to R11C3.
5. Change the 4n7 cap to 3n3.
6. Add a new 40u cap from R1C7 to R3C7, negative lead on R1C7 (if you don't have a 40u, just re-use the 47u you removed earlier)
7. Add a 68n cap from R2C3 to R2C5
8. Re-connect the LED+ wire to one of the now offboard 4k7 CLRs, then connect a wire from the other side of that 4k7 CLR to R11C1. (Be sure to use heat shrink or wrap resistor with electrical tape if not using a daughter board)
9. Re-connect the TB LED+ wire to the other offboard 4k7 CLR, then connect a wire from the other side of that 4k7 CLR to R10C1. (Be sure to use heat shrink or wrap resistor with electrical tape if not using a daughter board)
Heat 1 & 2 attaches at R1C1
Heat 3 attaches at R5C1
Range 1 attaches at R2C1
Range 2 & 3 attaches at R3C1
Done.
Before you fire it up, check continuity across the new trace cuts you have added to be sure the cuts are good. While you're at it, probably should check for continuity across the new links too.
Heat = 1K LIN
Range = 500K LOG
Here's a picture showing the changes:
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Qr9TRj1VXUg/VFh09oWEyrI/AAAAAAAAASw/cVXEM4RN0_U/w537-h551-no/Galileo%2BBoard%2BMods.png
Now that I think about it, it probably would have been easier to just wire up a new Naga Viper daughter board and connect the boost stomp switch to the new daughter board rather than the TB Input and output!
Hello. Thank you very much for this pattern.
ReplyDeleteBut I can get only very small sound from this on LTSpice simulator with correct FET and PNP models.
I can get sound very big and fuzzy before 100n near Q4...
And how can i use upper booster with no signal cable from or to CB30? Free connect?
Hi there. Is there a schematic or a PCB layout for this? It looks too much for vero for me.
ReplyDeleteHello everyone,
ReplyDeleteafter a lucky start as a vero effect builder (I've got more than 10 effects working in and out of my pedalboard), I'm afraid Galileo, my favorite son, the one I waited to build so that I could do it with more experience, has beaten me without mercy.
I've checked circuit, unwanted bridge, soldering, components, polarities, everything I could think about it, I found and corrected some fault, and I admit I did a small adapting by inserting two 100nF caps in parallel instead of a 220 nF that I didn't have, but everithing seems to be fine.
Still... nothing, it remains mute.
The Naga Viper section works properly, and connecting the Galileo section to an amp I discovered that touching the treble pot contacts produce some noise, but that's all.
Gods of the DIY, I offer you my voltages, please, PLEASE help me :-)
Q1: D=7.13 - S=0.03 - G=0.00 (looks weird, but I can't understand why)
Q2: D=9.05 - S=7.14 - G=3.00
Q3: D=6.01 - S=1.65 - G=0.00 (again, looks weird, but I can't understand why)
Q4: D=9.05 - S=6.02 - G=3.01
Q5: D= 9.05- S=6.57 - G=2.15
Q6 omitted as NAGA VIPER works :-)
Many thanks for anything you can do, this site changed my musical life!
Oh my, I'm such a miserable and forlorn man.
DeleteThe Gods of Tagboards ignore me, and I'm left in pain and sorrow!
Seriously, this stuff is driving me mad. Does anybody can, at least, tell me something about the voltages, so that I can restrict a bit my research for faulty components?
Thx in advance.
you're better off posting questions about debugging over on the forum in the open chat section. it's hard to keep up with posts on the main site as with each new post it pushes one off the most recent list. copy your voltages and put up some good pics of the top and bottom of the board so we can help with a visual.
DeleteQ1 and Q2 do look funny to me. i'm going to first say that in a lot of cases i've found a poor ground or something grounded that should be that causes odd issues like this. so until you take some pics and may a thread that's all i got atm.
This comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeletei build this pedal yesterday and it's awesome!!!! by the way, i have a question to make.... i try with 9v and 12v power supply and i can't feel a great diference, i have a 18v power supply, but when i tested the out voltage it shows 22v.... should i build a voltage regulator or there are no risk to mess up the circuit????
ReplyDeleteHello,
ReplyDeletefirst of all thank you so much for the site in general and for this in particular, I love the Galileo.
I build it and, after a little debugging, it works well. Nevertheless it is a bit far from the demo of the original, in term of volume but particularly in term of gain.
I solved the volume issue changing the resistor near Q3 with a 47K I had and with a 18V supply, but the gain is still low.
With my Red Special I can only have a clean sound from the CB30 section, while inserting the Naga give some crunch, but far from the Brian May saturation. Not to speak about my strat, that give me just mild crunch with everithing cranked up.
In this situation the Gain and Volume pots are useless, unless you want to go under unity.
I checked the schematics here:
http://freestompboxes.org/download/file.php?id=19604&mode=view
and I found a couple of differences.
First, the 47K resistor that goes to Gain 1 is shown identical, but it is written that it could be increased. Do you think this could increase the gain? I will try it btw.
Second, the 470 cap near Q4, is connected here between Drain and Source of Q4 itself, while in the other schematic is connected from Drain to Gain 3. Do you think this coud make any difference?
I'm too much of a noob in electronics to understand what does this can actually mean, but I'm confident the experts in this site will be able to explain.
Eveutally I will try both mods and post the risults, if someone can confirm I won't fry anithing in doing this.
Again, thank you so much for this site, there are no words to say what a difference it is to have such a huge resource for a poor guitar player like me!
Great Life to |V|ark, Miro and all the people working for this.
Hello... Is there anybody in there...
DeleteWhat must I change to get more VOLUME? Even on full the sound is barely audible. Is a charge pump the only answer? Please help me Obi-wan, you're my only help!
ReplyDeleteHi there!
DeleteI had the same problem and changing the volume pot from 100k to 250k brought the effect volume up. If that is not enough, try 500k or 1M.
It seems like you have a mistake somewhere in your build
ReplyDeleteBuilt, and just spectacular. Independent boost is so useful with other effects.
ReplyDelete