The CB30 is designed to give you jangly, dynamic, responsive overdriven tones, just like it's British 30 watt counterpart. The tone controls work exactly the same way as the actual amp, where the more the treble and bass increase, the more scooped the mids become, making it capable of being quite hollow and jangly. The CB30 can be dialed in for that immediate attack, compressed mid range honk, finished by the shimmery high end jangle, an elusive sound for many players. Like all the foundation pedals in our line it sounds excellent on its own, or when stacked with other pedals (no really, just wait until you put a treble boost in front!)
As owners of the real deal know, the amp has an amazing touch sensitivity, with the ability to go from clear and chimey, to that unique overdrive character with just your picking dynamics. The CB30 has the same response, and cleans up extremely well with your guitar's volume control. The CB30 is true bypass, and comes in a rugged silkscreened case, has black aluminum knobs that feel great, and are easy to see on stage. If you're looking for an expressive, chimey overdrive, we think you'll enjoy the CB30 for years to come.
As owners of the real deal know, the amp has an amazing touch sensitivity, with the ability to go from clear and chimey, to that unique overdrive character with just your picking dynamics. The CB30 has the same response, and cleans up extremely well with your guitar's volume control. The CB30 is true bypass, and comes in a rugged silkscreened case, has black aluminum knobs that feel great, and are easy to see on stage. If you're looking for an expressive, chimey overdrive, we think you'll enjoy the CB30 for years to come.
I guess this should be built in a single box with Naga Viper and use just single stompswitch... :)
ReplyDelete+m
Yes when we've got the changed values I think the Galileo layout should be seen pretty quickly! :o)
Deletechanged values in what circuit?
DeleteEither circuit may have been tweaked, but the Naga Viper certainly has been because there is no Range or Heat pot. Some gutshots have been posted on FSB and I expect someone will post a confirmed BOM pretty soon.
Deleteoh yeh... i was thinking i would just include the 3 knob viper in there if there's room in a 1590bb. what do you guys think? 7 knob- two footswitch 1590bb? possible? looks to me like it is.
ReplyDeletethe only problem i might have is that i've really enjoyed most of these amp in box circuits running at 18v... the catalinbread sft is definitely money at 18v- as is the hiwatt box... anyone try the others at 18v? i think they only advertise the SFT as being good at 18v.
what's the deal with this one on biasing?
Only Q1 and Q3 could potentially need biasing and you'd need to replace their 390R emitter resistors with trimmers.
DeleteI'd definitely give it a try first though, these mu-amp circuits have so far seemed pretty forgiving.
7 knobs and 2 stomps won't be even close to a problem with BB. Example with 6 knobs, one toggle and two stomps:
Deletehttp://mirosol.kapsi.fi/varasto/boxes/Vuonna77.jpeg
+m
well, i had some issues with this baby haha:
Deletehttps://dl.dropbox.com/u/2828668/reaperpedals/dennis/inside.jpg
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/2828668/reaperpedals/dennis/front.jpg
btw miro, i need some more of your ideas on what to build next? i've done pretty much everything you told me about last time, im running out of ideas. what would you reccomend? pretty much anything is of interest. for now the keeley comp, naga viper and devifx hyperion2 is on the list, what else? :)
DeleteCool! Can't remember what i suggested last time, but during last weeks i've built and loved these: MXR Dyna, Ross Comp (both really good classics), Nick Greer Sucker Punch (LOUD), Red Llama (LOUD!), Ross Distortion (tan rocks and black one is still unverified!), MP/BJF Blue Sky OD, Repeat Percussion, Catlinbread Merkin, Wampler Black '65, MXR Phase 45 and yesterday i finished my first Boob Tube, which is amazing. Mosferatu is also nice. Don't remeber if i pointed this earlier, but DAM Meat Heat with switchable caps is really great. I stuffed it in a A box..
DeleteShould keep you busy for a week or two :)
I might take a crack on this one too, soonish.. Got just too many projects open at the moment. :)
+m
Sweet, thanks mate! Just printed all the circuits at work, my inkjet at home is out of ink :(
DeleteTime to go on a shoppingsphree tonight at Tayda :D
-jimmie
You won't find everything from Tayda :) At least you'll need CA3080s from Polida (http://www.ebay.com/sch/polida2008/m.html). They have some reasonably priced germ diodes and JFETs too. Just be sure to pay that extra 3,50 for the postages - otherwise you'll get your package in late october. I'm still waiting for my big batch of 1N5817s that i ordered and paid on 27th of june with free shipping... Yup. That's nearly two months and counting :)
Delete+m
Haha! I'm in the same situation, decided to get some MPAS18 from there couse i knew i would'nt buy from Tayda in a near future, and yeah, July 9th and counting here :p
DeleteVerified, works like a charm, fantastic pedal, great pick response, need to try a naga viper in front of this. Another great layout, Thanks Mark
ReplyDeleteExcellent, cheers for this. I've done a layout for the Galileo based on the two I've already done, but amjust waiting for the confirmed values before posting.
DeleteBass wires need flipping as they currently work in reverse.
ReplyDeleteI'm a little disappointed, Much prefer the WIIO.. Is this whats in the Galileo? along with the Viper? If thats the case I'll leave that and just use the viper straight to amp as I get a mean Sabbath tone with that :)
Whoops, meant to mention the bass wires, bring on the Galileo :-)
DeleteMirosol
ReplyDeleteIn regards to your suggestions for Rudeez, did you like the Mosferatu? I think it's supposed to be similar to Zendrive but with more gain. Is that how you would characterize it?
Definitely... Actually. I boxed it today, and it's going to need some changes. I'll be writing to that post in a bit...
Delete+m
I had a friend call today with his original of this pedal and I gotta say mine is nothing like it. There is a huge volume and gain drop in this. I went through shed loads of 2N5457's but none of them made a difference. All components I used are exact. Still possible that is could be a failure on my part but next to an original, this was really tame and dull sounding with no where near the volume and gain of the original.
ReplyDeleteVince
ReplyDeleteThanks for the info. Hate to waste time and parts - I'll pass on that one.
No worries Tim, I don't want to put anyone off. It may of been a faulty component or many other possibilities. Although the I didn't like the original anyway lol... The WIIO is great pedal if you haven't tried that one from catalinbread, and the RAH.
DeleteCool. Maybe I'll revisit those. Kinda burned out a little on dirt boxes though. Think I may have a go at the Deep Blue Delay. Been putting it off for a while so maybe now is a good time to throw that one together. Cheers
ReplyDeleteDoes drain voltage need to be checked? I know it usually should be when using j201's. Think 5457's are just low gain j201's. Maybe 201's could be popped in for more gain/volume?
ReplyDeleteThanks Mirosol
ReplyDeleteI'll check out your changes there.
i built this one yesterday, and while it works, it has a very low output (with volume maxxed it's at unity at best). i find it very hard to believe that the original works or sounds like this (since it sounds good in the video clips). IMO, the tone controls are too interactive too, since when you turn the treble down, the level rises a ton and it's all mids. it doesn't sound anything like a vox AC30 to me, but rather a mediocre dirt pedal, lacking gain, volume and tone, so off to the bin she goes..... ;-(
ReplyDeleteMine also has a very low output. When I connect drain of Q3 with the output, I get a normal volume level. But after the EQ (Treble 2) the signal is very quiet. I checked every wire and also every component with a component tester but can't find any errors.
ReplyDeleteCan it be a biasing problem?
I am shocked. I did not have the issues those mentioned above at all. Check your JFETs, that's probably the source of your problems. I think there was some finicking I had to do to get mine working right. Plenty of volume on mine. It sounds bloody amazing. My new favorite drive pedal!
ReplyDeleteI pulled mine out again and got it working perfect. thanks for the word of confidence.
Deletewhile the pedal sounds great by itself, i decided to make my CB30 a Galileo of sorts so I could have even more gain on tap if I want it. instead of using the Galileo vero, I made the CB30 and Naga Viper separately so mine would have the Naga's heat and range controls too. it's an awesome pedal now.
ReplyDeletehere's a couple of pics of it:
http://johnkvintageguitars.homestead.com/Effects/Fuzz-ODs/CB30/CB30-NV-02.jpg
http://johnkvintageguitars.homestead.com/Effects/Fuzz-ODs/CB30/CB30-NV-03.jpg
Hi John, your Galilieo looks very nice!
DeleteI built the CB 30 and i have the same problems with low volume and gain and a dull sound.
How did you solve this?
The drain at Q2, Q4, Q5 is 9 volts. is that ok? in the Schematic it looks like they are directly connected to the 9 volt supply
The drain of Q1 & Q3 is 4.77 & 4.43
Are the voltages ok?
Great,really beautiful !!!
ReplyDeleteHow did you do the writing ?
A sticker ?
thanks. and yep. I used a brother p-touch for the labels.
DeleteCool !
ReplyDeleteThere are many,which model did you used ?
...and which tape did you use? A standard laminated white on clear tape?
Deletea PT-2100 with white on clear 3/4" tape.
DeleteI'm sold... going to order one of these now!
DeleteOne more thing, do you spray over those or do they just stay on?
Deletethey stay on, I don't overcoat them.
Deleteany info on biasing the jfets with this circuit? or is it one of those ones that doesnt need to be? i have enough 2n5457's that I could match them and just find one resistor value to use for each stage
ReplyDeleteQ1, Q2 and Q3 ,Q4 are in a muamp configuration and shouldn't be as susceptible to biasing problems, although you could always swap the source resistors of Q1 and Q3 to trimmers if you wanted some tweakability. Q5 may need biasing though and so again you may want to swap the source resistor for a trimmer. Personally I'd just socket the JFETs and build it as is and maybe swap a few about and see how it affects the sound
DeleteMaybe a silly question - "treble 1 to bass 1" means the treble 1 wire soldered to treble 1 lug then jumpered to bass 1 (or 3)? Or treble 1 wire directly to bass 1?
ReplyDeleteYes that's exactly what you need to do, wire from board to Treble 1, daisy chained out to Bass 1
DeleteThanks!
DeleteDamn it sounds good.
DeleteI built this, but am getting no sound. Just a high pitch whine noise. I'm gonna get out the audio probe. Hopefully I can debugg this bugger.
ReplyDeleteI got rid of the whine noise. It was my power supply. But I'm still not getting any sound. My transistor voltages are:
ReplyDeleteQ1 Gate:5.0 Source:7.2 Drain7.2 Q2 Gate:3.16 Source: 7.2 Drain: 9.46 Q3 Gate: 3.30 Source: 7.19 Drain:6.17 Q4 Gate: 3.14 Source: 6:17 Drain: 9.46 Q5 Gate 3.72 Source 9.41 Drain 9.46
If any one can help, it would be much appreciated.
You shouldn't have anything like 7.2V on your sources, I think you need to check over your connections, check cuts are complete and no burrs and creating shorts
Deletethanks for the reply! I checked every thing and can't find any solder bridges. I pretty stumped on this. Is there any other suggestions, where I should start debugging?
ReplyDeleteif you don't have a scope to do a signal trace, i'd start looking for a misplaced component or link.
DeleteThanks John! I got my probe out. And I am losing signal at the 330pf cap. I replaced the cap but still am losing signal. If I pull Q1 I can keep probing past 330pf. I'm still stumped, with this one.
ReplyDeleteI still can't get this one. Everything looks correct. I triple check it. The only thing I can think of is a faulty componet or something. If anyone can help, that would be awesome! I posted my voltages in the above comments.
ReplyDeleteDoes this one have the same low volume issues that the Galileo? I had built the Galileo but at max vol it is only a bit above unity. I thought about building this with a full naga in front but don't want to bother if it's basically the same on the CB30 side of the circuit. Thanx for any info.
ReplyDelete100k at input dropped to 10k, 47n for 22n on Q2, skipped 200k altogether following EQ, used J201 @ Q5 - better performance with 18v supply; works a treat with already built treble boost ( Ge Dallas Rangemaster )
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteI had the same problems with volume as many of you. After few days of experimentations, I found that my pedal works best with these changes:
ReplyDeletehttp://i65.tinypic.com/2rdj9ld.png
Changed gain and volume pots to anti-log, Q2 470pf capacitor to 10nf as someone suggested, jumpered 4.7k going to volume 3, input cap from foil to electrolytic as in original, 220nf foil film cap on Q4 to electrolytic (both caps positive side oriented to top side of layout).
Cheers!!!
Very late to the game here, but I wanted to contribute some findings I stumbled upon with this build.
ReplyDeleteIt seems like low volume is a very common complaint with this build (and also the first version of the Galileo), and one that I also encountered. I couldn't find any well-described solutions here, @ FSB, or elsewhere on the inter web; some people seemed to have luck with the circuit, and others didn't. There seem to be some circuit tweaks floating around the web, but I think the circuit is pretty well correct as Mark laid out here.
I think that the role (and particularly the biasing) of the 2N5457 trannies has been underestimated. I couldn't find any info on biasing 2N5457s that was useful to a relative noob like myself. Luckily I had about twenty 2n5457s to experiment with, and i ended up ranking them all by drain voltage (relative to ground) when in the Q1 position (I just left everything the same in the circuit and swapped out each tranny in the socketed Q1, one at a time, and recorded the drain voltage of each of the transistors). I found that if relatively low drain-voltage transistors are placed in Q2 and Q4, and relatively high drain-voltage transistors are placed in Q1 and Q3, there is a tonne of volume to be had (with gain full CCW, and volume full CW, it is much, much louder than unity). With that combo, the lower mids are really pushed, and the circuit sounds a bit boomy and muffled, and also has too much gain that can't really be tamed with the guitar vol knob. If I reversed that, and put the low drain-voltage transistors in Q1 and Q3, and the high drain-voltage transistors in Q2 and Q4, the circuit was really quiet and anaemic, with much lower volume than unity when the gain/vol settings were as described above.
What sounded best to me was putting my lowest drain-voltage transistors in Q1, Q2 and Q4, and one of the highest drain voltage transistors in Q3. The EQ is still mids-forward, but very manageable with the EQ, and the gain was easily tamed by backing off on the guitar volume. The circuit actually sounds pretty awesome, and still has plenty of volume on tap. Incidentally, this is the first pedal that sounds good with my germanium rangemaster clone pushing it!
I'm sure someone out there understands what's going on. I've biased J201s before to half the supply voltage, but in this case, the maximum volume of the circuit i obtained was when I was getting drain voltage readings >6V at Q1 and Q3. I'd love to hear anyone's thoughts on this if it makes sense to them!