The often imitated but never duplicated thunder of the Red Llama is back! This is not a reproduction, but a continuation of where the groundbreaking archetype left off in 1999. Every single feature that made the Red Llama so mighty is still in place, right where Mr. Huge left them. Season to taste any amp, big or small, clean or dirty the Llama is the perfect compliment to them all, with a rich harmonic palette available on the austere control panel. Spin the drive knob and go from a gentle grind all the way up to massive distortion. Use lower settings for defined open chording or juiced clean tones. Go a little higher for crunchy power fifths, and crank it up for buttery lead tones and tight, bottom-heavy riffage. The volume control sets the desired amount of overall level, but be forewarned: The output capabilities of the Red Llama are legendary, with more than enough gain to force even the cleanest, most stubborn amps to submit their headroom.
Make sure you get the unbuffered CD4049 (CD4049UBE, MC14049UBCP etc). This one is verified:
Demo of Geiri's build:
That was fast :)
ReplyDelete+m
:o)
DeleteYou can cut pin 13 or just leave it unsoldered. It is shown in the datasheet as "No Connection" anyway, but I don't like taking 9V to a pin it isn't supposed to be at because I don't know whether the pin really has no internal connections or whether the unused pins are taken to ground or something like that. Better to be safe than sorry.
You mean pin 12? I think it would be the best to cut it from the socket. May be safer. Will build this at some point. I have "a few" projects going on :)
Delete+m
No I meant pin 13 where the 9V supply is and there is a cut shown at the pin hole. You could do the same with pins 10, 12, 15 & 16 too because they're unused, but pin 13 is the one which concerned me because it effectively is sat on the 9V line.
DeleteOf course I could have made the board 1 column wider to put a cut between the pin and the top of the 1K resistor, but didn't see the point in making it wider just for that.
I can only count it as 12. If left side of the IC is pins 1-8, then the fourth pin from the top on right has to be 12. 13 on the layout doesn't connect to anything.
DeleteI think we're talking about the same thing though. :)
+m
Think you're counting the wrong way :o)
Deletehttp://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j6/IvIark_2006/DIY/RedLlamaIC.png
Ooohh. So it's left from top: 1-8 and right side is 9-16 from the bottom.
ReplyDeleteThis is why i love this hobby. I learn something new every day. Does that only apply to CD-chips, or have i assumed every 14 and 16 pin IC wrong? :)
Yes i have. Just checked the datasheets of the usual IC's, and you're right. Like i said at some point, much of my knowledge is based on assumptions - and this was very bad assumption :)
+m
Would swapping a 220uF cap in place of the 330uF work alright? I don't have any 330's on hand, wondering if this would affect the circuit too much...
ReplyDeleteYes that would be no problem, I used a 100u I think in that build. It's just a power supply filter cap so anything above maybe 47u could be used.
DeleteWould swapping out the 51pf foe 47pf work??
ReplyDeleteYes. I don't think that would affect the circuit in any way. 47p is within 10% of 51p.
Delete+m
Ha Great got every thing in my stash for this...Should keep me busy....
ReplyDeleteHi guys..
ReplyDeleteHave built this, 1 problem as always when I build...
I am getting no drive. The 1m pot does not do anything at the min its like a clean boost any ideas????
I'm having issues with this too.. no drive, I have to really hit the string to a short sharp 'electrical' type of distortion?
ReplyDeleteI used 100uf in place of the 330u and a 47 in place of the 51p
Tried different IC's the IC i'm using is a CD4049BE.
B@&llocks... just read about the unbuffered IC lol.. would that be my issue?
DeleteVery probably mate. I've got some unbuffered ones if you want one?
DeleteNot to worry mate, I've ordered a couple from eBay. Thanks for the offer though ;o)
DeleteUPDATE; It was the IC that was the issue. The unbuffered ones arrived today, threw one in and bingo!
ReplyDeleteIt seems like 'add-dis' problem was the same as mine so maybe that would be worth checking ;o)
Finished this board today, build it simultaneously with Greer's Sucker Punch. I knew these two would have some things in common and i wasn't wrong.
ReplyDeleteWhen i started out, i ordered a kit for this and i liked it. At the time the kit came only with 125B box, wich i didn't like at all. So i sold it, but it felt like something was missing from my collection.. This is really nice, open, massively boosting, clear and articulate overdrive. Like the marketing jargon says, it's bound to open up any amp with it's massive volume. It's just really good and useful overdrive.
I'll continue with Sucker punch on it's respective post :)
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HAHA Vince your right,, working great now....
ReplyDeletehttp://mirosol.kapsi.fi/varasto/boxes/RedLlama.jpg
ReplyDelete+m
Put the board together but when time came to link in the pots I realized I've been sold linear 10Ks instead of logs. Not very keen on linears for volume, so would using a 100K volume pot work just fine? Or would you rather go linear and stick with the 10K value?
ReplyDeleteFor this circuit, i believe that 100K is way too much. 10K lin means just that you'll be getting more volume sooner on the sweep.
DeleteIf those two were my options, i'd definitely go with B10K.
+m
http://ubuntuone.com/3GeP88G3W7bLUuAhP4Szyb
ReplyDeletehttp://ubuntuone.com/0Izo8d11ckxwCWE3poaXia
James
very nice
DeleteJust curious, is this the original red llama from the early days of way huge, or the new reissued one??
ReplyDeleteCan anyone give me a pointer?
ReplyDeleteI built this thing, but all I get is a huge volume drop when it's engaged. When it's turned off the signal is fine, but as soon as I turn it on the volume drops to almost nothing. I've verified all the wiring and component placement. I verified that I didn't have a solder short between traces and I verified the 3PDT switch was wired correctly with no shorts. Any ideas?
When I've had volume drops the problem has predominantly been because of a less than perfect solder joint. Just try reflowing the solder to make sure all the joints are good, including the pots.
DeleteI figured it out. I was misinterpreting the jumper from 1 to 7 as two jumpers from 1 to 2 and 7 to 9. Once I corrected that it works great.
DeleteHow would I know if I'm ordering the unbuffered chip, is there a specific code
ReplyDeleteYup. The CD4049UBE is unbuffered, while CD4049BE is buffered. Seems like the UBE is more common. You can get those from Tayda for relative cheap.
Delete+m
I read somewhere that the Red Llama doesn't work well with humbuckers, is that true? I hope not, I really think this could be a great overdrive
ReplyDeleteI just finished building the Red Llama and it sounds pretty good. I haven't really experimented a lot with it, but from what I hear, it's a nice od/fuzz. I did post the making of this pedal on my pedal building blog http://pedalprojects.blogspot.ca
ReplyDeleteI've got some high resolution pictures and in depth explanations of every step
Great stuff Dimitri, I love seeing build guides like this. Good job
DeleteBuilt this one last night and it sounds great!
ReplyDeleteIts a bit noisier than I would like though. Is anyone else experiencing that?
Maybe it's just that I have it very loosely wired in my test box right now. It's not so noisy that it affects performance but it's annoying
I have the same issue. My build is pretty noisy as well. It's not that I did anything wrong, I think, but maybe it's just the nature of the effect.
DeleteShouldn't be noisy, it's not that high gain. Try it with a battery and see if that helps.
DeleteAlso, keep the wires from the board to the jacks short, and keep the jacks apart more than an inch or 2cm.
I've built a few of these and they were never noisy.
DeleteIt might be that thing about having the jacks too closed
DeleteI tried shortening the input and output wires, as said above, and it didn't seem to change anything. It still has a hiss in the high frequencies. The effect it's self works beautifully. the sound is incredible. It's just producing some noise. Are there any other suggestions
DeleteYou could try smaller power filter cap. 330 is quite big.. 100µ or 47µ should tame it down..
Delete+m
The weirdest thing happened. I took off the back plate and plugged it into the amp and no hissy noise. So then I put the back plate back on and still no noise. At this point I thought I might of had a loose wires or something, so I shook my pedal around (I know, not the best Idea) but still no noise!!!
DeleteI don't know what changed to make this thing stop making noise, maybe something was touching it wasn't supposed to be, but now it's hiss free and I couldn't be happier!!!
I've just built this one for a client..... shit, now I have to build another one for me, sounds f*cking great!
ReplyDeleteLovely distortion and wild boost. Never had curiosity about this effect but, now I HAVE to get one for my own XD:)
BR
Been on the fence about this one. I think you just talked me into it :)
DeleteEsquire?? :P
Delete?
DeleteSorry, I thought that you were a friend of mine using a different nick :) He asked me a few days ago about this effect, so I had a wrong conclusion :P
DeleteAnd, yeah, you won't regret if finally build this effect, I'm really loving it!
BR
Boxed!
ReplyDeletehttps://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=491596734245513&set=a.404470492958138.93220.404417189630135&type=1&theater
Very nice Javicap! I've got two 1590s that have been sitting unused for almost a year. Maybe I'll get my nerve up and use one for this. There's just little room for error on those things. I did find Madbean's 1590A drilling template recently though so hopefully that will help.
ReplyDeleteThank you!
DeleteYeah, Madbean's templates are great, but he uses 9mm pots and low profile jacks.
I use 16 mm pots, and regular open frame jacks, so extremely carefull measurement is mandatory, as you can fit 3x 16mm pots, 2 open frame jacks, led bezel and a 17x12 holes vero board.
Using 9mm pots and low profile jacks, you can fit even 6 pots and a 13-14x22 holes veroboard, but the expense is very high.
The Red Llama is very easy to fit, as there are only 2 pots and a rather small board (15x9) so no need to look for expensive components.
Placing both pots at the same height is tight but doable if you take off the plastic cap that Tayda's ones use to have.
Time ago, I used 9mm pots for all 1590A buils, but finally realized that it was not neccesay at all, so I do in this format just the ones that will be doable with regular parts and 1590B's for the bigger ones.
One day i'll try a Fuzz Factory in a 1590A, as soon as I get reasonably priced low profile jacks :P
BR
Good information. I forgot he was using the smaller pots so I would've probably goofed. I tend to buy my pots from Mammoth. I just don't like those split shafts on the Tayda pots - the knobs sit weird for me on them. Just a personal ocd thing - I'm sure they are fine for most builders - and I buy a lot of other parts from Tayda. And you can now buy the pot "condoms" cheap from Small Bear if you want them ( which I occasionally do when fit isn't an issue ).
DeleteFuzz Factory in a 1590A - we'll definitely need pics of that one when completed!
Thanks
And btw, these dc jacks really help in tight spots because most of the jack is on the outside instead of the inside. I have no problem with this aesthetically. I use them in all my builds regardless of space.
Deletehttp://www.taydaelectronics.com/hardware/dc-power/dc-power-jack-2-1mm-enclosed-frame-with-switch-external.html
What a fuck, the one I published on Facebook, (the one that was supposed to be for me), it's sold too! :P. Will I be able to keep the third one? XDDDDDDDD
DeleteBR
Just got my first pedal compoleted with kind help from Miro.
ReplyDeleteHere it is: https://www.dropbox.com/s/j16vg57dhnhqq4c/Blackout%20Electronics%20Red%20Llama.JPG
Heehee :) No problem man!
Delete+m
Is there any differences between the CD4049UB and the CD4049UBE ?
ReplyDeleteregards
Look at some of the previous posts, this question has been asked before
DeleteI made this along with an EM Drive.
ReplyDeleteI really like it but it doesnt sound as good with my single coils.
I might do the gain mod that i saw Dimitri do on his blog.
http://youtu.be/OWTejXQTNdE
http://i.imgur.com/ux8Mr0Z.jpg
DeleteGut Shot
This comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteI'm trying to reconcile this layout with the Craig Anderton Tube Sound Fuzz (I want to add the lead/rhythm switch, which requires toggling the 100K off the drive pot up to 10M). The schematic (and other layouts) seem to have that 100K hitting pin 14 of the chip, but I can't seem to read it that way here--am I reading it wrong (probably!)?
ReplyDeleteRemember this IC has 6 independent buffers, 2 are used, 4 are not used, and it doesn't matter which ones you use. 14 is the input to one of them, 5 is the input of the one I used as per the GGG schematic.
DeleteAh, great. I knew there was something I was missing! I knew it made sense, but couldn't figure out why. Thanks!
DeleteBased on my experience that drive pot is useless when its connected to 10M res.
DeleteHi . I tried this one multiple times recently, never succeed. Have no signal when pedal is on . I suspect bad soldering. Precisely because of the ic position. I think the chip is hard to solder because of the jumpers under. The leads are too short and my soldering skills are bad. Do you have any advices please ? Thank you
ReplyDeleteMaybe using an IC socket would help?
DeleteYes an IC socket will help because there is a slight gap under the body which will accommodate the links. Another bonus is you never have to apply any heat to the IC itself.
DeleteHi, I have built his pedal which works fine but I find it a bit trebly compared with the dry signal, I don't know if it is filtering out some of the low end or maybe boosting highs. My question is if this is how it is supposed to be, thanks.
ReplyDeleteCan i use CD4069UBE? i found some info that they are the same just 4069 has 2 less pins
ReplyDeleteNot all cd4049ube chips are created equal. Not even all ti cd4049ube chps. I have 2 chips marked ti cd4049ube 02e5fpk-e4 chips that sound amazing in this circuit, and a batch of 10 marked ti cd4049ube 11hmk7j-e4 that make a terribly crappy sound on release. However, the good chips do sound really really good.
ReplyDeleteWould anyone care to share their sources? I got a pair of Tayda CD4049UBE's with the texas instruments logo, and both of them are behaving like the previous descriptions of the buffered chips (though these are clearly marked "UBE") with the volume working, but no drive except for the tiniest short sputter.
DeleteThis is my first time using an IC in a pedal, so maybe they were damaged by my handling somehow? But why would the volume still work properly if it were damaged?
In any case, I need to buy more but don't want another round of junk. If you have any sourcing suggestions, I'd appreciate it!
I choose this pedal for my first build and I'm really happy, it sounds very nice. Thanks for
ReplyDeleteyour great job.
Hi everyone, I have some boxing issues for all my first builds.I followed the advices to rock it before box it ! The pedals sound good. Then I try to box them using Ivlark's schematic. I have for both pedal an horrible noise when the pedal is engaged. In each case VOLUME 2 (pot) is going to output, so I linked VOL 2 lug to the 3PDT lug (top right lug). Is it the good way to wire ? If so what could be wrong ? Thanks !
ReplyDeleteThat is the right way to wire the output (to the 3pDT) - but for your noise, I suspect a grounding problem.
ReplyDeleteThe trick is just to make sure everything is grounded; in/out jacks, circuit board, LED, etc. One way to test your grounding is to take an alligator clipped lead (one clip at each end) and connect one end to ground (at the DC jack) and then try grounding various different places. If the noise goes away you have found the problem. Are you trying to add a battery clip by any chance?
Another succesful build after a few hiccups. Its amazing how many times i wrongly position a electrolytic capacitor leg during a build and its always the last thing i check. Might have to concentrate a bit harder. Anway, great pedal even though a bit loud. I think either this or the other build i did today, Orpheum Fuzz, may have been my 50th. Still can't get enough, what next i wonder.
ReplyDeleteDamn this thing sounds good. Ran it through my 68' Bassman and a 4x12.. it's so good. This is in my top 5 favorite pedals ever. Easy.
ReplyDeleteHi, can I use another 10uF capacitor other than electrolytic? Is electrolytic causes the sound to change?
ReplyDeleteThank you
I've been pulling my hair over this build. Please be advised there is a MASSIVE error in the layout. Pins 7, 8, 9, 11, and 14 should be connected to ground but are all connected to the V+ rail!!!! Check against the madbean schematic. The sad part is the pedal "kind of works." The bad part is there's a ton of white noise when turning up the volume by any significant amount. I would recommend to make a brand new layout, or buy a commercial board. This one is corrupt.
ReplyDeleteI hacked the layout and corrected it to the verified schematics. I had to move the 1K resistor and 330uF cap to a different place on the board, and make some cuts, and run some jumper wires. Pin 1 of the IC is the ONLY pin that should be getting the V+ rail. I am noticing a bit less noise, but also more output volume, which helps again with the noise floor since I can leave the volume knob at a lower setting (less backround noise, more guitar signal coming through). I'm not sure if my IC was damaged in any way, it's a Tayda CD4049UBE TI chip. I'm going to try a Motorola NOS piece from eBay next week and see if there's any improvement in performance. Right now the pedal is "acceptable." Took me 48 hrs to get there. Ramming the front end with a clean boost does not affect the noise floor and is an easy way to get a good high gain sound out of this circuit. I am trying to use this pedal as an improvement over the Klon for my Marshall amp. I might have to buy a Way Huge pedal just to see how the "real" one works. Being a broad-band distortion, I guess I expect some white noise, but I am very sensitive to that and would still like to minimize it even more. I wonder if the different IC's will have different noise floors. All of my in and out cables are shielded, that was my first attempt at fixing the broken layout. Playing with the filter cap value and placement was a fool's errand, but did produce minor differences. 100 uF works fine. It would be really cool if someone could post a correct, verified stripboard layout for future builders ;-D
DeleteConnecting the unused pins to +9v is NOT an error in the layout: Unused inverter inputs can be tied to ground OR supply voltage, and I believe there is a reason for choosing supply rather than ground (lower current draw, perhaps?) as per the original llama: This is not the source of your woes.
DeleteSecond Nocentelli. I've built number of these circuits and for most hex inverter-based distrortions, the unused pins ARE definitely tied to supply.
DeleteHowever. I've seen tons of out-of-spec chips that perform ok as inverters for home burglar alarms, but do not work for audio applications. It's far more likey that the device is bad than the layout is at fault.
I'd suggest doing a bit more research before using terms like "corrupt".
+m
How involved would it be to add a treble cut control, as in the new 25th anniversary version that Dunlop has issued?
ReplyDeletehttp://www.muzique.com/lab/swtc.htm
DeleteI put a treble cut (SWTC) in mine (per the link above). What I found was that I had to change the values of the volume pot considerably, as just adding a 1K for the SWTC, as suggested by the design of that SWTC, didn't work correctly. It just stayed always full on (or SOUNDED like it was). There was some interaction with the IC that was causing the problem, the consensus seemed to be over at DIY Stompboxes.
DeleteWhat I ended up doing was using a 500K for the Volume and a 50K for the SWTC (and I think a 100R and a .22uF). THAT worked well and as expected. It MIGHT be that you could lower those values a bit and still not get the interaction problem, but 500K is what I had handy and what I used.
Good luck!
Thanks for the tips on the SWTC, Andre. That could come in handy.
DeleteHi!
ReplyDeleteI am an absolute beginner, so excuse my question.
The Red Llama circuit only uses 2 of the 6 amplifiers in the CD4049.
Could it be possible to use the 4 remaining to power a Baxandall tone stack?
ive built a couple of these and there is not aas much drive as there should be and the pedal sounds kinda good but not quite right it has to be the 4049 chips I have. I think there junk.
ReplyDeleteI built this one just the other day with a 4049UBE from Tayda, wroks just fine, tone and gain are in the correct level. I'd use a 1M A pot for gain though.
ReplyDeleteHow would you go about adding an LED to this circuit?
ReplyDeleteUse the offboard layout here:
Deletehttps://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2012/02/offboard-wiring.html
Basically the LED connects to the stomp switch and then to the 9V supply via a resistor. The resistor value depends on how bright you want it but I tend to use around 2K ohms.
Hello, I would like to add a SAG-STARVE control to power supply section for adjustable +5 to +9 Volts.. Is there any suggestion of how that mod could be built ?
ReplyDeleteAlso, is it true that if the electrolytic caps have rating above 25 Volts max, could the power supply of a circuit be 18volts? If it's true better to build a SAG control from +5 to +15 Volts like variac... Thanks a lot
From what I seem to remember is that using a higher supply voltage is not especially worthwhile but lowering it yields some nice variety. Did you every try out your idea?
DeleteHi, just made this tonight and fired up first time which is always nice. Though its not as gainy as I would have thought, the only thing I changed is I didn't have any 68nf caps to hand so I used a 47nf instead. Would this have made a difference?
ReplyDeleteNot massively no. I'm surprised that you say is not gainy. Do you mean in terms of overdrive sound or overall volume? The Red Llama has to be one of the loudest pedals I've ever built.
DeleteHow would I mod this to be as dark as the 25th Anniversary model (the one with Hi-Cut knob) on its darkest setting?
ReplyDeleteBasically, is there a way I can swap a resistor or cap to make it as dark as the 25th Anni model with Hi-Cut knob maxed?
If you want to modify this layout to sound dark as the 25th Anniversary with the Hi-Cut at maxed you have to add a 27k on the first stripe, between the 10uF negative side and the output lug 3 wire. And add a 33nF cap between lug 3 and lug 1 of the Output pot.
DeleteI have built and like the original red llama, but i was wondering if the tone knob of the 25th version does much-given what i know about using cmos chips in the past- what have others found? And did anyone know what changes were made for the MK3 smalls edition, apparently it is more usable and generally nicer?
ReplyDeleteBuild this one last year and yes it sounds od/fuzz stuff!
ReplyDeleteVerified!
Replacing that 1k res fr the 9v supply with 100ohm res would give you clear od/fuzz output.
ReplyDelete