HYPER DISTORTION
Heavy distortion with a unique and driving sustain. A wide range of distorted frequenies that enable everything from neo classical solos to outstanding riff work, hyper distortion captures it all!
Excellent for single coil Pickups.
Note that the stomp switch isn't wired up in the conventional way. The effect includes a bypass buffer and so only a SPDT switch is required, or a DPDT if you want to include an LED.
I can almost hear Mirosol scrambling to his desk checking component stock and cursing at his soldering iron to heat up quicker! ;o)
ReplyDeleteLol.... Vince....
ReplyDeleteHa ha, actually this is a distortion pedal so I thought that might havebeen you mate. I'm sure some switches could be added somewhere! :o)
ReplyDeleteCan you verify that?
DeleteNo, I've only just done the layout. You requested it so verifying it is your job! :o)
DeleteHa ha... It's definitely on the list! Just a few others before it though... sounds good.. and yes, I'm sure a switch or two can be found in there ;o)
DeleteJeje thanks so much. I'll buil that later and ill tell you i that's verify
DeleteWhere have i to connect DPDT? I see SW1 SW3 but i don't know how to continue
ReplyDeleteSw1 is the buffered bypass position
ReplyDeleteSw2 connects to the output
Sw3 is the effect on position.
So the switch either connects Sw1 or Sw3 to the output.
The other pole can be used for the LED. Take the LED+ connection on the board to the LED anode, LED cathode goes to switch pin Sw6 (bottom right), Sw5 connects to ground.
i have a 3pdt Switch. Can i use that for the pedal?
ReplyDeleteYes of course, but you'll only be using two poles and not three. Use the outer two poles so there is more separation
ReplyDeletecould you make me an schematic like this? http://www.little-black-box.co.uk/images/uploads/wiring-diagrams/3pdt-wiring.jpg
ReplyDeletesend me to rockhound252 at hotmail dot com. Thanks
ReplyDeletehttp://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j6/IvIark_2006/DIY/DB-01switch.png
ReplyDeletewhat's D1?
ReplyDeleteAn LED
ReplyDeletei have built that. the tone and volume don't change
ReplyDeleteMust be something wrong with the build, it's hard for the volume control not to work. From the output of one of the opamps (pin 14) the signal goes through a cap and a resistor and then out to the volume control lug 3. Lug 1 is connected to ground and then lug 2 is the attenuated output out to the 1u cap. So the volume control is a voltage divider that dumps some or all of the signal to ground, and if it isn't working it suggests that lug 1 isn't grounded properly.
DeleteVince says: I can almost hear Mirosol scrambling to his desk checking component stock and cursing at his soldering iron to heat up quicker! ;o)
ReplyDelete:DDDDD
Just got back from our sailing trip. It's going to be tomorrow before i can start building anything :) Plus i'm low on all 10K A/B/C pots and 2 pole stompswitches.. Looking forward to build this, but the components above are ear marked for something else, so this will have to wait. I'm going to build something tomorrow that's for sure... :)
+m
i have the ic of a TS9 because the JRC4558 will arrive in two days but the pedal sounds fantastic. I can say that the pedal is "Verified" Thanks IvIark
ReplyDeletei have the ic of a TS9 because the JRC4558 will arrive in two days but the pedal sounds fantastic. I can say that the pedal is "Verified" Thanks IvIark
ReplyDeleteExcellent, thanks for verifying!
Deleteone question. in the schematic i sent you i don't see the resistance 8k2. what is that?
ReplyDeleteIf you look on the schematic there is a 10K and a 47K resistor in parallel from the 9V supply to vref. 10K and 47K in parallel works out at 8K2 so I used one resistor instead of an unnecessary two.
Deletein the schematic i sent you i don't see a resistance of 8k2. what is that?
ReplyDelete^^
Deleteso... it's correct?
ReplyDeleteYes
Deleteif someone has built that can this person try using the IC1 a TA75558P instead JRC4558D
ReplyDeleteThat's the Toshiba version of the JRC4558. There are a number of ICs you could try which will work fine in there, TL062, TL072, TL082, NE5532, LF353N, LM1458, LM358N, LM833N, NJM062, NJM072, NJM082, NJM4558, OPA2134, OPA2604AP, RC4558P and plenty of others. How it sounds to someone else with their gear probably won't tell you very much though, it's something that you really need to try for yourself and use the one that works best for you and your setup.
Deleteand what happens with the resistance 8k2?
ReplyDeleteI don't understand your question. 10K and 47K in parallel equals 8K2
Deleteahhh okok!! Thanks. I didn't know
ReplyDeleteIve changed the ic with atl072 but the drive tones and volume don't run. The sound of the pedal are correct but the parameters no...
DeleteDo you have another pedal you can test the TL072 in? Mirosol recently built a Klon and had to go through 4 or 5 TL072's to find one that worked. It has the same pinouts as the JRC4558 so that isn't a problem and as we know the layout is good it must be an IC problem.
Deletehe built the klon of that pedal? or another?
ReplyDeleteHe built a Klon, but the pedal doesn't matter, the point is that he had trouble with 4 or 5 TL072's.
Deletei can't put an ic to can change tone and volume...
ReplyDeleteHas anyone trie the klon? Does the pots change the colume and tone?
ReplyDeleteYou're more likely to get an answer if you post it on the Klon thread then someone who has built it is more likely to see it.
Deletei just discovered the problem i had. It was a resistance. Now my klon runs at 100% :D
ReplyDeleteHey, I built this and last night, compared it with my actual Sobbat DB-01. I'm happy to say it sounds identical through the range of settings, with one small issue. I'm 99% sure I have the pots wired as in the image, but both the treble and bass pots work backwards--more bass and treble counterclockwise. Is the solution to swap the wires (gain3/treble3 and gain1/treble1) at the board, or to rewire the pots?
ReplyDeleteAlso, I added a clipping switch which has the stock 1n914 pair on one side and a pair of infrared LED on the other side. Since the forward voltage jump is not drastic between Si diodes and infrared LEDs, it gives a subtle but noticeable change in headroom to the clipping character, but it's not a drastic volume jump like you get with red or yellow LEDs.
Did you wire the pot numbering as shown here:
Deletehttp://tagboardeffects.blogspot.co.uk/2012/02/offboard-wiring.html
If so thanks for the info and about the diodes, I'll update the layout. And just take the Drive 1 wire to Drive 3, and the Drive 2 & 3 wire to Drive 1 & 2. Then swap the Treble 1 and 3 wires over. You could do it at the pot or the board, but if you do it at the board remember to snip the Drive 2 & 3 link and place a new one between Drive 1 & 2.
Yes, with the case upside down they go 3,2,1 from right to left--I'm careful to the point of painting the 3 and 1 on with a paint pen. The gain and volume knobs work right.
ReplyDeleteI switched the wires to the board only (treble3/bass3 and treble 1/bass 1) and it works as it's supposed to... not sure about the drive switch, but I left those as is, and everything works right. I highly recommend to anyone building this that you use infrared LEDs as the clippers. They just sound better... cleaner down low, but still a lot of gain up high. It's not as much gain down low on the knob, and not as much insane grind up high, but it's pretty awesome...
ReplyDeleteHi, thanks for the vero layout. I like the pedal very much because it gives me something i was looking for a years and now i finally found it. Have anyone a schematics also? If so i'll be glad if someone could send it to me. Thanks.
ReplyDeleteGreat pedal, however i have an issue with it that drives me insane... On its own, works perfectly - no noise when not playing. When i place it in a loop of my fx switcher and power it with an isolated psu - insane noise (not with other pedals in that spot, so it is not the loop). When i daisy chain the power from this pedal to another the noise also flows to the daisy chained pedal - regardless if the Drive Breaker is bypassed or not... Can this be due to the buffer? (I checked the grounding of the enclosure = ok, all GND connected starlike on the output jack). Thanks in advance!
ReplyDelete