The other classic. This again is as per the original. Note, the layout has been done with 2N5088 or 2N3904 transistors in mind and that matches the orientation shown. If you use anything else, check the required orientation for the transistors you use to make sure the pins are C B E from top to bottom.
Slightly more compact version with external switch which will give you stock TS808 clipping, red LEDs for a more aggressive distortion and a centre "diode lift" position which will be louder and cleaner than the other two positions:
Update 27th September 2020:
For tips and tricks have a look at this fantastic build video from LoHi Sounds on YouTube. He's done a great job of the build and an even better job of showing what's required for the full process. Thanks for the vid!
HI
ReplyDeleteWhats the orientation of the JRC
If you look at the IC there is a faint semi circle at the top which represents this on the ICs:
ReplyDeletehttps://www.pc-control.co.uk/osc/images/8pin-dil-ic.jpg
In my layouts, pin 1 will always be top left unless I note otherwise, and as far as I can remember I've only orientated ICs the other way once in the tap tempo daughter board, and in that case it was only because otherwise the two ICs would have needed to be linked diagonally right across the board.
Many thanks
ReplyDeletei've built it but i notice that sound is attenuated with level pot to half and only in the final part the sound is boosted. is it normal?
ReplyDeletetry to put the transistor the other way around, it's shown the wrong way on the layout.
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
DeleteHow does the LED+ connection work into the offboard wiring layout that you have on this site? Any help is appreciated!
ReplyDeleteLED+ goes to the anode of the LED. The cathode then goes to the 3PDT and is switched to ground when the the effect is turned on which illuminates the LED.
DeleteIn the offboard wiring layout there is a resistor in series with the wire to the LED anode, but with this layout the resistor is already included on the board so you don't have to put a resistor "in line".
If I wanted to take the LED out, do I just remove the 4k7 resistor?
ReplyDeleteBasically yes.
Delete+m
Can N23954 use?
ReplyDeleteGreat stuff. Built this and after a little playing swapped the rightmost 1k resistor for a 2k2. Got a little more volume boost. My JCM800 is in hair metal heaven now, cheers :)
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteWell the circuit already has a pulldown resistor on the input and output, so the resistor between jack tips won't be adding anything. Just disconnect the LED and see if that is what is causing the popping
DeleteTried disconnecting the LED, no effect, still popping. Also changed pulldown resistor values to a bigger one, no effect either. I think its not the pedal that causes popping.
DeleteI have had some noisy switches in the past but if you're getting popping it still suggests something in the circuit. Personally I would try a new switch but failing that it means starting to swap caps to see if you have one that is causing the issue
DeleteHow do I adapt this for bassguitar? A friend of mine said he had a ts9 modded for bass many years ago...
ReplyDeleteHi everyone. I just built the version with external switch but cannot get it to work properly. In bypass mode signal goes through without any problem (no noise or hum). When I engage the effect, there is a volume drop and the signal is very weak. The led lights up, and tone, gain and volume controls do what they should, but all in a very weak and low signal.
ReplyDeleteSo basically everything works fine but the signal is lost through the cricuit.
Already teste IC and the trannies on other circuit and they are ok.
Any thoughts? Thanks so much.
same situation here
DeleteOk, I just checked and I have 9v everywhere (all IC and transistor pins). It's got to be a short, right?
ReplyDeleteOk, I was just being silly... these readings were made without any input and output jacks in the pedal. With the jacks, the readings are not so strange (I think):
DeleteIC
pin1: 4,44
pin2: 4,6
pin3: 4,6
pin4: 0
pin5: 4,45
pin6: 4,44
pin7: 4,43
pin8: 8,97
Q1
C: 8,88
B: 4,4
E: 3,8
Q2
C: 8,8
B: 0
E: 0
So something must be wrong with Q2. Any clues? Please, I need help and I need to learn.
Thanks.
Tempted to make one of these or a couple...
Deletefor clipping diodes, can you use germanium's? I have a few OA126's laying around and perhaps using sockets to play around with different diodes would be a good idea?
I always liked old tube screamers but never got around to making one LOL
You can use whatever diodes you want for clipping, as each one will have a different "flavor" of distortion. Changing from Si to Ge will usually cause you to loose some overall output, due to the lower threshold, usually ~.60V for Si and ~.30 for Ge. The only satay to combat that is to replace each single Si with 2 Ge's in that direction. My suggestion is to socket the diodes and start experimenting. You don't have to commit to one immediately, and you can always change them later if you change your mind. Oh, and Ge diodes are said to be warmer and smoother then Si diodes when clipped.
Deletemy q1 b and e have 0 volts q2 voltages seem to be normal. When the effect is on I only get humming. What could be the problem?
DeleteJust building this (the modded version) but where does gain 3 go to or is not connected? Thanks in advance.
ReplyDeleteGain 3 can be connected to Gain 2, or left unconnected. I'd just leave it unconnected
ReplyDeleteOk built this a week ago and it sounds weird not what i was expecting. Checked build and everything seems fine. I am getting extreme fuzz but it breaks up almost immediately. I built the switch version. One thing i did wonder about was that 27n capacitor is it meant to be that value. I put a 22n and a 4n7 in parallel to get as close as i could. Could someone tell me if this 27n is correct? Should it be 47n or 22n and this is what is causing it too sound weird? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
ReplyDelete20n or 22n is the correct value depending on the version of the schematic. That is just the input capacitor and bigger value just lets a bit more low frequencies in to the circuit. That cap does not contribute to your symptoms, no matter what the value is used.
DeleteThings to double and triple check:
1. Transistor and IC pinouts
2. All component placement
3. All cuts
4. Run a knife through the stripe gaps and triple check for solder bridges
5. Resistor values
6. Power supply (or battery etc) output voltage
If none of those yield results, then measure voltages from IC and transistor pins (multimeter black lead, or common lead to board grounds and red lead, or volt lead to the pins mentioned) and post the here. IC pins are numbered as such:
1--u--8
2------7
3------6
4------5
Pins 1-3 and 5-7 should be close to "reference voltage", around 4,5 volts. Pin 4 should be zero and pin 8 should be the supply voltage, around 9V.
+m
Thanks for the reply Miro. Checked everything and everything seems fine (apart from the gain pot only working in the last fifth).Here are the ic voltages
Delete1 - 4.66
2 - 5.64
3 - 4.58
4 - 0
5 - 4.87
6 - 6.57
7 - 4.88
8 - 9.17
Is this correct?
Cheers
G.
Hi friends! At the minimum level of the DRIVE pot the signal is never clean...is it normal? how could solve this problem?
ReplyDeletethanks a lot :D
I've tried this circuit vs. an original vintage ts9 and they are very different. the original has much more output volume and a much more "tube" response at low gain.
ReplyDeleteAlso the original has 20k tone pot and a 100k linear level pot.
I used a RC4558P, in the original there is a TA75558P.....Transistors are K30A...What do you think about it?
Ok came back to this one after a break to see if i could sort it out and again spotted it nearly straight away. Had one resistor end in a wrong hole. Amazing how many times you can look at something and you just can't see it. Anyway sounding a hell of a lot better. Get a dip in vol when diodes engaged but i presume thats normal due to the voltage drop.
ReplyDeleteWorks like a charm! Gratitudes lvlark!!!
ReplyDeletehi friends, if I read: 3.3v on pin2, 5v on pin5, 0v on pin6 & 7.. what should I do the first checker? thanks?
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
Deleteits ok now after change the other 4558ic, sounds great,
ReplyDeleteand thanks for the layout..
heres sharing my build..
Deletehttps://goo.gl/photos/XUvx4eeG9ogy6Ppx7
I made this pedal today and it sounds awesome. Thank you for this blog, Im gonna make a bunch of new pedals :D
ReplyDeleteGreat pedal, but I am not getting any clipping from the red LEDs, it is like the switch is in the off position. When I swap them for other diodes, the switch works perfectly (I have put in sockets). So I have some excellent distortions, but am interested to hear the red LEDs clipping. Any ideas?
ReplyDeleteCheck if they are working with battery.I have bought some LEDs from tayda and the legs were very brittle. It looks like they are ok but at the top the legs might be broken.
DeleteHi, I'm having the same issue. Clipping for LEDs is non existent. Any suggestions to solve this? Or did you find the reason why it's not working? Thanks
DeleteHey there !
ReplyDeleteBuilt this effect, and it sound so great !!!
Thx !
I built the version with the clipping switch. It's great; distorts nicely. But I'm getting a significant volume drop from both clippings. What can I do?
ReplyDeleteThat's usually normal, the diodes and LEDs limit the volume. The diode lift position will be significantly louder.
DeleteBuilt the stock version and I can really understand why this pedal is a classic! Thanks for the layout.
ReplyDeleteHi
ReplyDeleteI've almost finished the ts9 circuit but can't work out where to put the negative end of the led or one end of the momentary switch
do you have the original circuit diagram for this?
the ts9 ones i've found on google seem different to this.
regards
dan
Just finished, bypass sounds normal but when I engage the pedal I have a very low volume.. any advice?
ReplyDeleteTry probing to see where it goes quiet?
Delete+m
Hi and thanks for this layout!
ReplyDeleteJust finished the modded build but I can't seem to get any clipping from the LEDs. It's just the same as the "centre lift" position. Any ideas why it would do that? Thanks!
Maybe your switch?
DeleteI've finished the 2nd version with the toggle switch. There is a wailing sound and if I switch to the leds it gets louder. anyone care to show how the leds and diodes are wired in the switch? I soldered them like just how the parts were shown in the layout.
ReplyDeleteOkay so I found my mistake. I accidentally soldered jack ground to the 9v pin in the dc jack. Now it's working but it has very low output. Unity volume/gain is at full on the level pot.
DeleteI tested IC voltages and I think there's something wrong. Pins 1-3 & 5-7 jump around 0.8 - 1.40. pin 4 is zero and 8 is 9.2
This comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteI am revisiting this. I have signal. The volume and tone pots work, the gain pot does nothing; I have a slightly boosted clean signal. Any ideas?
ReplyDeleteThe gain pot varies the resistance between pin 1 and 2 of the IC, so if you're not getting any variation something must either be wrong with the pot (or connections to it), or the 51K resistor (or connections to it). If you have a multimeter, put the probes between pins 1 and 2 set on resistance and see if you can see any change in the value as you rotate the pot
DeleteI have two questions:
ReplyDelete1) I cant find certain capacitors - 27 and 50 - is it ok to get the closest value?
2) what about voltage on capacitors? If you dont write voltage to capacitor, does it mean it doesnt matter?
thanks to anyone who replies :D
1) I was able to find 27pF MLCC caps from Mouser , but I used a 47 instead of 50. It works fine, so yes for that one. Remember most caps have a 5% tolerance so the exact value is not always necessary. Mine was 44pF.
Delete2) At least 16V. Don't use less than what you are providing from the power supply (9V).
What's "CBE"? Please can help me..
ReplyDeletecollecter, base, emitter. they are the legs of the transistors. look at the datasheet to make sure you put them in the correct orientation.
DeleteArme el 808 clipping y me funciona perfectamente!! Gracias!!
ReplyDeleteHi there,
ReplyDeleteI have built this circuit with the clipping switch but am getting no output when turning the pedal on. I get the bypass signal fine. Here are my voltages:
IC
1) 4.58V
2) 4.76V
3) 4.64V
4) 0V
5) 4.59V
6) 4.59V
7) 4.59V
8) 9.42V
Q1
C) 9.42V
B) 4.08V
E) 3.68V
Q2
C) 9.42V
B) 4.11V
E) 3.71V
Thanks very much for any help and also for all the layouts!
So I didn't realise the 1uF capacitors I was using had polarity, so switched them for normal ceramic ones. I now get an output using a function generator and a scope but the gain doesn't even reach unity. Any ideas on where to look for the problem? Going to follow mirosols advice as above
DeleteHi guys, need some advice. Just finished and fired up the first version (without diodes switch). Everything works fine despite drive pot. It does nearly nothing. Double check the wiring, everything's fine, double checked the board, every part is on it's place, no shorts, no cold joints. IC and trannies are oriented correctly, voltages are in norm.
ReplyDeleteKnowing that the drive pot varies resistance between IC 1 & 2 lug I put my multimeter there and while turning the knob resistence variation was minimal between min and max. Pot, on its own, works good.
Drop me an idea guys, where should I looking for troubles now :)
Hey. I tried to make first version and I didn't worked. Bypass signal works normal but when I turn on effect I hear only loud humming. I check everything and even made second board. Have anybody any advice?
ReplyDeletehello, this is my first build, im getting no output, im literally getting 0 volts; the voltage on my ic are v v v different as compared to everyone else...
ReplyDelete1-0.03
2-0.03
3-0.65
4-0
5-0.22
6-0.22
7-0.22
8-8.1
i have triple checked the circuit, where should i recheck??? please help me
Are you powering the board with a battery by any chance? 8.1V is a little low, but I don't think it explains the lack of Voltage on the other pins. Double check that the are no shorts with a continuity check using a multimeter, other than that, double check all cuts and links are correct and ensure components are laid out correctly.
Deletehello, update...i changed the battery, (i had a 12v adaptor, i tried 9v battery....just got a 9v adaptor and i changed the 4558 ic with tl072...i have 9v on 8 pin and some 4.5 volts on 5-7 pins, 9v on 8 pin
Deletestill dont have an output
As far as changing the 4558 for a tl072, it shouldn't make much of a difference in terms of getting an output. It may affect the tone but that's a different thing.
DeleteHave you wired up the off-board components? If so, what sort of wiring did you use for the bypass switch?
Other issues that may affect the output could include solder bridges or something shorting the input or output to ground (check with a multimeter - continuity setting).
Also, what voltages have to you got on the transistors and pins 1-4 on the IC?
Finally, which layout did you use? The standard TS9, or the one with the clipping switch?
i have used the second circuit(clipping), at the moment, i havent used a bypass switch, i have connected the input to input and o/p to o/p...giving common ground, the transistor voltage are, ic
Delete1-4.5
2-4.6
3-4.54
4-0
5-4.5
6-4.5
7-4.5
8-9.01
transistor 1 (left)
c 9
b-8.3
e-8.36
t2
c-0
b-9.3
e-4.5
and yes, i did check with the multimeter (continuity mode)
Okay looking at your voltages, the Op Amp looks fine as far as I can tell. Power looks okay, and the biasing for the I/O looks correct. The transistor voltages on the other hand look wrong to me. I'm no expert but I would expect both collectors to be the same 9V, so unless you have a stray cut between the two collectors, something about the transistors is wrong. The Base I would expect to be a low voltage due to the high resistance going into them. The emitter should be lower than the collector voltage, but I would say higher than the base voltage.
DeleteCheck the components connecting to the transistors, ensure they are correctly placed. Check your cuts around the transistor, which I have a trick for:
- Copy the layout given and put it into MS Word or similar.
- Using the picture tool, invert the picture horizontally
You now have a picture showing you how what the pattern of cuts actually looks like when you turn the Veroboard over (and have the board round the correct way)
Look for a short between the Base and Emitter in Transistor 1 potentially. Other than that, ensure the transistors are correctly oriented C B E downwards using the datasheet for whatever transistors you have used.
Good luck with it!
Yes Padster is right. If you look, all the collectors are connected to the 9V rail either directly or via solid links (depending whether you used layout 1 or 2). If you're not getting 9V on one of the collectors then you must have mis-soldered, or maybe forgotten to solder one of the collector pins.
DeleteThank you so much for taking out ur time! And I'm actually using a gpcb.. I tried v hard but wasn't able to get the horizontally shorter version... So i have manually shorted all the horizontal pins... Any better method on building where I m not able to get a horizontal shorted vero board.
Deleteidk how i got 0 volt on c earlier, im getting 9volt on collectors, 8.3 volt on both base and emitter of both transistors, what should be the ideal voltage on q1&q2?
update: i changed the transistors and everything works great! thank you so much, loved the bite
DeleteTo turn this to ts 10 what need to be done ?Thank you all
ReplyDeleteHello friends, unfortunately all pics are gone, if you have them, can you please share it with me. Appreciate it.
ReplyDeleteMay I ask why the pots are different between compact and normal version?
ReplyDeleteHi, I need circuit schematic for pcb, can u share ? Like altium, proteus schematic.
ReplyDeleteJust finished and verified. Small note that, I hear nearly no difference between no-clip and red led mode. I've used 5mm red leds, maybe that's why.
ReplyDelete