Picture of Simon's build (riffer on FSB)
BOM:
C1 - 22nF
C2 - 1uF
C3 - 47nF
C4 - 51pF
C5 - 220nF
C7 - 47uF
C8 - 1uF
C9 - 220nF
C10 - 100nF
C11 - 10uF
C12 - 100uF
D1 - 1N914
D2 - 1N914
D5 - 1N914
IC1 - JRC4558D
Drive - 500K
Level - 100K
Tone - 20K
R1 - 1K
R2 - 510K
R3 - 10K
R5 - 10K
R6 - 4.7K
R7 - 51K
R8 - 1K
R9 - 10K
R10 - 10K
R11 - 220R
R12 - 510K
R13 - 10K
R14 - 10K
R15 - 100R
R16 - 10K
R17 - 1K
R18 - 1K
R23 - 1K
Q1 - 2SC1815
Q2 - 2SC1815
Amazing site! Where it is possible to find the list of face values of details?
ReplyDeleteDoh, talk about missing out the obvious! Here's the BOM:
ReplyDeleteC1 22nF
C2 1uF
C3 47nF
C4 51pF
C5 22nF
C7 47uF
C8 1uF
C9 220nF
C10 100nF
C11 10uF
C12 100uF
D1 1N914
D2 1N914
D5 1N914
IC1 JRC4558C
Drive 500K
Level 100K
Tone 20K
R1 1K
R2 510K
R3 10K
R5 10K
R6 4.7K
R7 51K
R8 1K
R9 10K
R10 10K
R11 220R
R12 510K
R13 10K
R14 10K
R15 100R
R16 10K
R17 1K
R18 1K
R23 1K
Q1 2SC1815
Q2 2SC1815
If you build it let me know how you get on. Cheers.
Hello,
DeleteFirst of all, thank you for making all sorts of these diagrams for us. you make me enjoy my hobby to the fullest!
But I have a slight problem with the part list.
Since I live in Europe, I have encountered the problem that the IC JRC4558C and transistor 2SC1815 are American made.
I found a alternative IC chip (RC4558P) but I'm having trouble searching for a alternative transitor.
If you could help me out and give me some alternative Transistors options (if there are any) that are available in Europe would be awesome! If possible in the Netherlands that would be terrific ;)
Kind regards,
Koen
Thanks you so much =)
ReplyDeleteIf I will build - I will necessarily tell you about it. Actually, I only start to be engaged in it after very long break. Now I search for sites and the good veryfied schematics. I think to start to build with SHO. What do you think? =)
The SHO is a great place to start, or something like an Electro Harmonix LPB1 is another great sounding boost. It's worth trying something like that first and moving your way up to the bigger stuff.
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteThanks =) I would build this pedal with big pleasure, but, I can not find turrets anywhere. =( Therefore, I will build pedals on pays for a some time =)
ReplyDeleteIf you want to give the tagboard builds a try, you can get the boards from here:
ReplyDeletehttp://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250716864481
The TS808 will use up two of those, but you could make 9 different pedals (of the 5 or 6 column builds) with those three boards which makes it more reasonable.
Do you know if anyone put this together and how it worked out?
ReplyDeleteWhat does "VR" stand for?
ReplyDeleteThere is a voltage divider (VRef) created at the junction of R9 and R10 where the 9V supply voltage is halved. If you just link the bottom of R2 to the bottom of R9 then you're good to go.
ReplyDeleteGreat~ Thanks! I'm going to give the build a shot;)
ReplyDeleteExcellent, let us all know how you get on.
DeleteI've spent the last couple of days trying to verify this as a friend of mine asked if I could make him a Tubescreamer and I thought I might as well have a pop at trying to 'pop my verification cherry'. I'm beginning to wish I'd stuck to the regular TS808 layout. I've built the layout using two board and connected them together using the links shown on the circuit and I've got nothing coming out of it. I've got a couple of questions if anyone can help:
ReplyDelete1. I'm assuming that all the 9v connections can be daisy chained together and then connected to the battery/dc +? If not how should they be connected?
2. I've not connected the LED at the moment as I've not wired the footswitch up, all the other connections such as output/input etc run to a breadboard which I use to test pedals before boxing them. Is this the cause of my failure? I thought it wouldn't matter as it's just an indicator and not part of the overall circuit.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for posting the schematic anyway, it's actually been a fairly easy build up until this point but all the connections between the boards make it a real bitch to tell if you've made a mistake.
Oh excellent! :o)
Delete1 - Yes all connected to 9V, so daisy chain them and then attach to the supply.
2 - No that isn't the cause of your failure, in fact you've done exactly the right thing. The switch and offboard components should never be soldered in until you know the circuit is working, especially with something like this.
What have you used for transistors and IC? Measure the voltages between all the transistor pin and the IC pins and ground and let us know what you get.
Hi, thanks for the info. I used an rc4558p for the IC and 2 2SC1815's for the transistors but I socketed the boards so I can swap them out as needed, the pinout for the transistors didn't match the circuit so I just bent the pins. I'll check the voltages tonight when I get back from work and let you know how I get on.
ReplyDeleteThe BCE pinouts should be right, or at least they are right with my 2SC1815's. The most you should have to do is rotate the transistor 180 degrees to the orientation shown, you shouldn't have to twist any pins around.
Deletehey! what does VR stands for up on the diagram?
ReplyDeleteVref, the half supply reference voltage. Just join them together, the 4.5V is provided by R9 and R10
DeleteHas anyone had any luck finding these boards? Or do you have to build them?
ReplyDeleteWhat case size does this build require?
I've bought them from here in the past.
DeleteI've bought them from eBay too if you want an alternative but I can't remember the seller I'm afraid so you'll have to root around for them
I've got them from this ebay seller. http://www.ebay.com/usr/hobby-electronics-1
DeleteYou can perceive the box requirement once you have the boards.
+m
The BOM is wrong, C5 is not 22nF, it is 220nF, check out any of the other true bypass schematics for the TS808, or the article on the original buffered layout by R.G. Keen. On that diagram follow the circuit from the LHS of the 20K tone pot down to earth. It's (C5) 0.22 uF aka 220nF.
ReplyDeletecheers,
Pedro26
That'll teach me to copy and paste bill of materials without checking. Thanks for the correction, BOM changed. Anyone who has built this I would definitely recommend making that change because it will noticeably affect the frequency response.
DeleteIvIark's BOM is wrong, as it is on his posting on another site.
ReplyDeleteBTW The resistors in the original are 1/2W carbon film, the 1/4 W variety looks puny when placed in the Tagboard. A couple of values are quite difficult to obtain in Europe @ 1/2W in this brown 5%, package (if you want to replicate the original as closely as possible) and they are the 51K and the 510K. For some reason they are relatively easy to get in the blue 0.6W metal film package. Maybe in the US Mouser and/or Digikey stock them ?
Hi. I'm riffer. It definitely works. In fact it worked first time. Definitely go for the 1/2 watt resistors. Here's a video of my band - I'm using a 1988 Gibson Les Paul Custom, the TS808 handwired, and a JCM800 4104 100-watt tube combo. The other guitarist is playing a Gibson Les Paul Studio through a Crowther Hot Cake into a Jet City 50W amp.
ReplyDeletehttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KXJ-j1CUfc4
This comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteAre the potentiometers "Linear" taper or "Audio"?
ReplyDeleteI'd like to know, too!
DeleteDrive 500K log, Tone 20K W, Level 100K lin.
Delete+m
New to this board (it's fantastic, BTW!). I'm wondering, where are the schematics?
ReplyDeleteAll over the internet. Schematics are intellectual property of those who have drawn them and we do not have the right to post them here.
Delete+m
hey IvIark, where does one acquire the tagboard that's shown in the example build? is it called something special? i've been looking around, can't seem to find any. thanks!
ReplyDeletehi, thinking of doing this and looking at parts on ebay, I cant find a 20k w pot, is that not lin or log?.......please help!
ReplyDeleteJust use linear, W tapers aren't very common
DeleteI built this on perfboard, and it sounds great. Problem is I can only hook up a 9 volt battery to it. I soldered up a dc jack, but I just put the hot wire straight through my true bypass switch and to the hot rail that all the 9 volt nodes are connected to. I tried to plug in a 12 volt dc wallwart (that's all I had on hand) and it was powered, but it made a high pitched noise, so I unplugged it to prevent damage. Is there a diode or a filter cap I need to put in to get rid of that high pitched whistle, or do you think the power supply was just to big? I tested it on my multimeter, and although it is rated 12 volts it was putting out 14. I didn't think that would be a big deal for this circuit, but I've been wrong before.
ReplyDeleteIs there already a filter cap in this circuit? Just looking at it I see the polarized caps just before the ground line. Since I built my circuit on breadboard I just connected each grounded component lead directly to a ground rail, so do you think that might be my problem? I can solve that issue pretty easily if that's the case, I'll just jumper the negative leads on c7 and c12, and then connect my power supply ground to that node.
Maybe I just have a bad wallwart. It seems to me that the way I jumpered each negative to ground directly shouldn't have any impact on the function of those capacitors, it's all one node no matter how you do that.
Anyway, if anybody else had this problem and solved it, please let me know.
Thanks a ton to the original poster, this thing sounds SWEEEEEEET.
The TS808 should take 12V fine providing the caps are rated appropriately. Are you sure it isn't just a noisy adapter?
DeleteYes, it was just a noisy adapter. Pure awesomeness now. Thanks Mark, I want to build an audio mixer next... how hard do you think that would be?
DeleteGlad it's sounding great now. What sort of mixer are you talking about?
DeleteHi I've tried this with the 2n3904 transistors. And my gain pot does nothing. Please help
ReplyDeleteThe transistors are just buffers and are unaffected by the gain pot. So if the pot isn't working you must have an issue with the gain section somewhere around the opamp. The layout shows transistors with a BCE pinout but the 2N3904 has a CBE order. Did you twist the legs to accommodate change in pin order? If you have connected the wrong pins on the buffers that would stop the pedal working even though it is unrelated to gain.
DeleteHi,
ReplyDeleteDo you have to use the led to switch off the tag board or can i wire as usual with the true bypass switch with a 3pDT switch. Thanks
The usual 3PDT stomp is what the layout is referring to, the CLR is onboard and so the LED cathode just needs to be connected to the stomp as per the offboard wiring layout.
DeleteCheers Mark, sorry thats what i meant. Cheers Luke
ReplyDeleteThis is my TS808HW layout...
ReplyDeletehttp://handwired-effects.blogspot.ae/2016/07/ts808-handwired-layout.html?m=1
Hello, could you please tell if there any difference between this and stock ts808 in schematic or some components values?
ReplyDeleteHi, whats the switch wiring?
ReplyDeleteHi, I build this one but sounds too quiet, do someone same problem with this?
ReplyDeleteHey... How do you wired the switch?
Deletenow it's without switch, just sraight in and out
ReplyDeleteI have a TS808HW that I was poking around in today. There are some slight variations in the real one (the one I have, at least) and the layout, most are just minor move a wire here/there, but I have a couple of notable observations:
ReplyDeleteIn Ibanez's pedal, the .022uF caps are also of electrolytic type. I'm guessing they were changed here because these are more common in poly film varieties or because there is no DC across the cap, in which case using electrolytic is pointless (or even detrimental).
Also,
R23 on the layout (the LED resistor) is listed as 1k. I believe this needs to be more like 10k..
Doesn’t matter. All it does is deal with how bright the led will be.
ReplyDeleteI agree, doesn't have any effect on tone. If you use ultrabright's though, you're going to have a pretty bright light with just a 1k no? The ones I have can get bright enough they hurt to look at. Plus I like to run this circuit at 15 volts. Those are the only reasons I care, otherwise, yeah, doesn't matter. I'll probably use a 10k like Ibanez does though.
DeleteAnybody know the consequences of using a 25k tone pot instead of the 20k?
ReplyDeleteNot sure why everyone is asking about the boards for, they are a standard RS components part usually have plenty in stock Orange build their AMPS with them just worked on a Retro 50 had two of em very neat and loud LOL
ReplyDelete