tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post6330095712253206409..comments2024-03-27T15:26:01.893+00:00Comments on Guitar FX Layouts: Catalinbread GalileoIvIarkhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08416945174853142251noreply@blogger.comBlogger173125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post-4307091839540781562017-12-03T00:03:29.739+00:002017-12-03T00:03:29.739+00:00Built, and just spectacular. Independent boost is ...Built, and just spectacular. Independent boost is so useful with other effects.CthulhuOO7https://www.blogger.com/profile/11620887802621197436noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post-72436972932174079452017-03-27T15:51:48.651+01:002017-03-27T15:51:48.651+01:00Hi there!
I had the same problem and changing the ...Hi there!<br />I had the same problem and changing the volume pot from 100k to 250k brought the effect volume up. If that is not enough, try 500k or 1M.Jupnitski77https://www.blogger.com/profile/11582075821084193973noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post-5838457036985228212016-06-30T01:17:23.811+01:002016-06-30T01:17:23.811+01:00It seems like you have a mistake somewhere in your...It seems like you have a mistake somewhere in your buildTravishttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00836791717229314419noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post-75789982285716745442016-06-29T19:38:38.004+01:002016-06-29T19:38:38.004+01:00What must I change to get more VOLUME? Even on ful...What must I change to get more VOLUME? Even on full the sound is barely audible. Is a charge pump the only answer? Please help me Obi-wan, you're my only help!downBoyblueshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07526127286281784301noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post-42921117088857992862015-07-15T22:01:50.128+01:002015-07-15T22:01:50.128+01:00Hello... Is there anybody in there...Hello... Is there anybody in there...Benagrohttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06685586135209998994noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post-45467336517155718962015-07-05T21:14:42.297+01:002015-07-05T21:14:42.297+01:00Hello,
first of all thank you so much for the site...Hello,<br />first of all thank you so much for the site in general and for this in particular, I love the Galileo.<br />I build it and, after a little debugging, it works well. Nevertheless it is a bit far from the demo of the original, in term of volume but particularly in term of gain. <br />I solved the volume issue changing the resistor near Q3 with a 47K I had and with a 18V supply, but the gain is still low. <br />With my Red Special I can only have a clean sound from the CB30 section, while inserting the Naga give some crunch, but far from the Brian May saturation. Not to speak about my strat, that give me just mild crunch with everithing cranked up.<br />In this situation the Gain and Volume pots are useless, unless you want to go under unity.<br />I checked the schematics here:<br />http://freestompboxes.org/download/file.php?id=19604&mode=view<br />and I found a couple of differences.<br />First, the 47K resistor that goes to Gain 1 is shown identical, but it is written that it could be increased. Do you think this could increase the gain? I will try it btw.<br />Second, the 470 cap near Q4, is connected here between Drain and Source of Q4 itself, while in the other schematic is connected from Drain to Gain 3. Do you think this coud make any difference?<br />I'm too much of a noob in electronics to understand what does this can actually mean, but I'm confident the experts in this site will be able to explain.<br />Eveutally I will try both mods and post the risults, if someone can confirm I won't fry anithing in doing this.<br />Again, thank you so much for this site, there are no words to say what a difference it is to have such a huge resource for a poor guitar player like me!<br />Great Life to |V|ark, Miro and all the people working for this.Benagrohttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06685586135209998994noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post-80615620472932313822015-07-01T16:54:10.367+01:002015-07-01T16:54:10.367+01:00i build this pedal yesterday and it's awesome!...i build this pedal yesterday and it's awesome!!!! by the way, i have a question to make.... i try with 9v and 12v power supply and i can't feel a great diference, i have a 18v power supply, but when i tested the out voltage it shows 22v.... should i build a voltage regulator or there are no risk to mess up the circuit????Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16023896441480929011noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post-9994876459567307192015-07-01T16:51:44.308+01:002015-07-01T16:51:44.308+01:00This comment has been removed by the author.Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16023896441480929011noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post-2618155453194418262015-07-01T08:28:55.519+01:002015-07-01T08:28:55.519+01:00you're better off posting questions about debu...you're better off posting questions about debugging over on the forum in the open chat section. it's hard to keep up with posts on the main site as with each new post it pushes one off the most recent list. copy your voltages and put up some good pics of the top and bottom of the board so we can help with a visual.<br /><br />Q1 and Q2 do look funny to me. i'm going to first say that in a lot of cases i've found a poor ground or something grounded that should be that causes odd issues like this. so until you take some pics and may a thread that's all i got atm. Zachhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00044917566185720896noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post-25950240631742421782015-07-01T00:59:48.200+01:002015-07-01T00:59:48.200+01:00Oh my, I'm such a miserable and forlorn man.
T...Oh my, I'm such a miserable and forlorn man.<br />The Gods of Tagboards ignore me, and I'm left in pain and sorrow!<br />Seriously, this stuff is driving me mad. Does anybody can, at least, tell me something about the voltages, so that I can restrict a bit my research for faulty components?<br />Thx in advance.Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/01110842370954770580noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post-36701888965091942802015-06-28T22:00:13.908+01:002015-06-28T22:00:13.908+01:00Hello everyone,
after a lucky start as a vero effe...Hello everyone,<br />after a lucky start as a vero effect builder (I've got more than 10 effects working in and out of my pedalboard), I'm afraid Galileo, my favorite son, the one I waited to build so that I could do it with more experience, has beaten me without mercy.<br />I've checked circuit, unwanted bridge, soldering, components, polarities, everything I could think about it, I found and corrected some fault, and I admit I did a small adapting by inserting two 100nF caps in parallel instead of a 220 nF that I didn't have, but everithing seems to be fine.<br />Still... nothing, it remains mute.<br />The Naga Viper section works properly, and connecting the Galileo section to an amp I discovered that touching the treble pot contacts produce some noise, but that's all.<br />Gods of the DIY, I offer you my voltages, please, PLEASE help me :-)<br /><br />Q1: D=7.13 - S=0.03 - G=0.00 (looks weird, but I can't understand why)<br />Q2: D=9.05 - S=7.14 - G=3.00<br />Q3: D=6.01 - S=1.65 - G=0.00 (again, looks weird, but I can't understand why)<br />Q4: D=9.05 - S=6.02 - G=3.01<br />Q5: D= 9.05- S=6.57 - G=2.15<br />Q6 omitted as NAGA VIPER works :-)<br /><br />Many thanks for anything you can do, this site changed my musical life!<br />Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/01110842370954770580noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post-70467356345740087782015-05-28T09:35:09.795+01:002015-05-28T09:35:09.795+01:00Hi there. Is there a schematic or a PCB layout fo...Hi there. Is there a schematic or a PCB layout for this? It looks too much for vero for me.Nick Jameshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07170462613229593902noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post-63524884830499604972015-02-21T12:02:04.798+00:002015-02-21T12:02:04.798+00:00Hello. Thank you very much for this pattern.
But ...Hello. Thank you very much for this pattern. <br />But I can get only very small sound from this on LTSpice simulator with correct FET and PNP models.<br />I can get sound very big and fuzzy before 100n near Q4...<br />And how can i use upper booster with no signal cable from or to CB30? Free connect?Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05856462388535029192noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post-19386796096949728412014-11-04T07:05:18.313+00:002014-11-04T07:05:18.313+00:00For those interested in modifying your existing bo...For those interested in modifying your existing board to have a stock Naga Viper driving the Galileo...<br /><br />In a nutshell, I removed 3 resistors, changed 2 caps, moved 1 of the caps, added 4 links, 3 cuts, a 68nf capacitor, 2 potentiometers, and wired up the CLRs offboard. <br />I also drilled 2 new holes for the Heat and Range controls. <br /><br />Sounds like a lot, but it was fairly easy considering the board was already populated. Cost about $2.25 and took about 45 minutes start to finish.<br /><br />You will need the following: A 68n cap, a 1K linear pot, a 500k log pot and a 40u cap if you have one...or can get one...or can make one (otherwise you can re-use the 47u that you will be removing from the board). You will also need an enclosure that will accommodate the additional 2 controls/knobs and you'll need some heat shrink or electrical tape if you don't use daughterboards for the LEDs and CLRs. <br /> <br />Here is how I did it: <br /><br />1. Remove the 470R, both 4k7 CLRs and the radial 47u.(You can reuse the 4k7s and the 47u if you don't have a 40u) <br />2. Remove LED+ and TB LED+ wires from the board. (You will re-attach them to the now offboard CLRs later) <br />3, Add trace cuts at R3C3, R5C3 and R10C5 (Topside view - new trace cuts at Row 3, Column 3 and Row 5, Column 3 and Row 10, Column 5)<br />4. Add links from R3C2 to R4C2, another from R5C2 to R6C2 another from R1C3 to R1C5 and one more from R10C3 to R11C3. <br />5. Change the 4n7 cap to 3n3.<br />6. Add a new 40u cap from R1C7 to R3C7, negative lead on R1C7 (if you don't have a 40u, just re-use the 47u you removed earlier)<br />7. Add a 68n cap from R2C3 to R2C5<br />8. Re-connect the LED+ wire to one of the now offboard 4k7 CLRs, then connect a wire from the other side of that 4k7 CLR to R11C1. (Be sure to use heat shrink or wrap resistor with electrical tape if not using a daughter board) <br />9. Re-connect the TB LED+ wire to the other offboard 4k7 CLR, then connect a wire from the other side of that 4k7 CLR to R10C1. (Be sure to use heat shrink or wrap resistor with electrical tape if not using a daughter board)<br /><br />Heat 1 & 2 attaches at R1C1<br />Heat 3 attaches at R5C1<br />Range 1 attaches at R2C1<br />Range 2 & 3 attaches at R3C1<br /><br />Done. <br /><br />Before you fire it up, check continuity across the new trace cuts you have added to be sure the cuts are good. While you're at it, probably should check for continuity across the new links too. <br /> <br />Heat = 1K LIN<br />Range = 500K LOG <br /><br />Here's a picture showing the changes:<br /><br />https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Qr9TRj1VXUg/VFh09oWEyrI/AAAAAAAAASw/cVXEM4RN0_U/w537-h551-no/Galileo%2BBoard%2BMods.png<br /><br />Now that I think about it, it probably would have been easier to just wire up a new Naga Viper daughter board and connect the boost stomp switch to the new daughter board rather than the TB Input and output!MAOhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16009444316767677263noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post-22878140933297619332014-09-12T17:15:09.017+01:002014-09-12T17:15:09.017+01:00Hi,
I find what was wrong: Boost needed pulldown r...Hi,<br />I find what was wrong: Boost needed pulldown resistor on input AND output.<br />No pop at all!<br /><br />For now, on a second build (wanted to try the "51k" mod), I have a problem with the "Treble" pot. It acts like a volume pot and as if it were inverted: the more I turn it CW, the less I have volume with a little touch of crap in the sound.<br />CCW, the pedal sound's like the same pot is fully CW on a correct build. :-$<br /><br />I've been working on it for 3 hours today, but I don't find anything wrong.<br />So pot is in the right way and fully functionnal, and I made continuity tests looking for bad solder joints and micro bridges. But problem is still there.<br /><br />What does it sound like for you?CheapChiphttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16438940367965810832noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post-52097079126740664642014-08-25T14:35:27.322+01:002014-08-25T14:35:27.322+01:00Hi, everyone!
My stomp is wired with the IvIark &q...Hi, everyone!<br />My stomp is wired with the IvIark "Switchable Pre-Boost" layout, and when I switch the boost on while OD is engaged, I get a LOUD pop, as a few people here.<br />I tried everything listed above as Muzique's LED wiring, switch swapping, etc... and nothing makes any difference. Except a 1M pulldown resistor on Boost input that makes pop a little lower. But it's still here.<br />BTW, when I tried millenium bypass 2 (that was inefficient), LED was always on. Exactly, on first seconds, when switch was "off", LED was off but slowly returning to "on". After that, Led was always on.<br /><br />Any idea about all this?CheapChiphttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16438940367965810832noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post-36978936537598216962014-05-27T11:18:08.315+01:002014-05-27T11:18:08.315+01:00Nice job! Thanks for the picNice job! Thanks for the picIvIarkhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08416945174853142251noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post-48143157897466981662014-05-27T10:59:39.941+01:002014-05-27T10:59:39.941+01:00I finished this one yesterday evening and it's...I finished this one yesterday evening and it's sounds very nice, my little tweed 5f1 sang like an AC30 :-)<br />I built it with a 18v charge pump, without volume unity was around 4 o clock which didn't feel right to me.<br />Here is a pic of my build : http://nsm08.casimages.com/img/2014/05/27/14052712053514005912269485.jpgAlltrax74https://www.blogger.com/profile/13079701857494829507noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post-22700261481581842862014-05-24T07:21:48.687+01:002014-05-24T07:21:48.687+01:00Awesome, i'll give that a shot first and see w...Awesome, i'll give that a shot first and see what the result is. Thanks Mark.Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09423619749260980539noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post-86045783194331235412014-05-23T13:31:18.370+01:002014-05-23T13:31:18.370+01:00Yes it's the Miller effect. Basically that ca...Yes it's the Miller effect. Basically that cap creates a filter which rolls off top end, so if you want to lose some brightness then you could try increasing it. Personally I'd socket it to let you audition a few.IvIarkhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08416945174853142251noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post-27706420825555060822014-05-23T07:38:46.421+01:002014-05-23T07:38:46.421+01:00I am liking this pedal but the treble boost is jus...I am liking this pedal but the treble boost is just not doing the pedal any favours in my opinion. I might up the values for the input and output caps around the 2n2222, but what is the 47pF cap from collector to base doing? I very very vaguely remember reading something about the miller's effect (or some other name) but i'm not sure.Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09423619749260980539noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post-28840221672048300652014-04-26T20:47:00.215+01:002014-04-26T20:47:00.215+01:00Deleted last comment - it was a bad cap. This peda...Deleted last comment - it was a bad cap. This pedal is amazing. I had to reverse bass-pot wires to get the proper CW=more. The knobs are very interactive. Got a great Tie Your Mother Down tone.Soporifixhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11285224042368983404noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post-48249885921829613222014-04-26T09:26:05.153+01:002014-04-26T09:26:05.153+01:00Muito Obrigado! (thanks a lot!)
I chose to use a 4...Muito Obrigado! (thanks a lot!)<br />I chose to use a 4PDT switch on CB30 and 3ptd on TB ... So the TB does not work alone ... If anyone interested in sending the wiring schematic. Congratulations again for your work. It's a good lesson for us all to see someone share knowledge so generously : )Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05340601738103175235noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post-49743905036594675772014-04-26T02:29:13.103+01:002014-04-26T02:29:13.103+01:00This comment has been removed by the author.Soporifixhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11285224042368983404noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post-65983883088015467872014-04-25T18:16:56.729+01:002014-04-25T18:16:56.729+01:00Yes, just take the TB Output wire to lug 3 of a ne...Yes, just take the TB Output wire to lug 3 of a new volume pot. Take lug 1 to ground, and then lug 2 is your new output to the switchIvIarkhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08416945174853142251noreply@blogger.com