tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post3891500361736945108..comments2024-03-27T15:26:01.893+00:00Comments on Guitar FX Layouts: Ethos TWE-1IvIarkhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08416945174853142251noreply@blogger.comBlogger66125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post-15113354846366805972021-09-27T18:03:40.237+01:002021-09-27T18:03:40.237+01:00Don't know what to make of that, but anyway di...Don't know what to make of that, but anyway disconnect the wire from lug 3 of the Vol pot and put a 10k resistor between lug 3 and the board. See what that does for the volume, then adjust the 10k from there. Higher value will equal a lower output. MAOhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16009444316767677263noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post-70013736923372512662021-09-27T17:12:06.801+01:002021-09-27T17:12:06.801+01:00Update: removing the 10k resistor from the vol pot...Update: removing the 10k resistor from the vol pot got rid of the gain pot pop. Mysteries of electricity. Luc Tonnerrehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07647162251848028875noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post-10977302499259513162021-09-27T16:38:32.656+01:002021-09-27T16:38:32.656+01:00Hey MAO,
thanks for your detailed help. VOL: I we...Hey MAO,<br /><br />thanks for your detailed help. VOL: I went down the easy road first and soldered a 10k resistor between lugs 1 and 3 of the pot. There's still a lot of volume so I'll try your second suggestion later on.<br /><br />GAIN: I swapped the 1M and 220p with sockets and put in a 470k and 470p, according to your earlier suggestion, which was already a lot better. As I didn't have a 270k resistor I eventually went for middle ground and put in 330k/680p, which seems perfect. There's one issue though, I now have a slight pop every time I turn down the gain pot to zero. It happens with 470k/470p as well as with 330k/680p. Do you have any idea how that could be fixed?<br /><br />As for the cabinet switch, it's not really much of an issue so I'm going to stay away. Luc Tonnerrehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07647162251848028875noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post-87331065377637006822021-09-26T22:40:44.082+01:002021-09-26T22:40:44.082+01:00Hey Luc,
Regarding the Gain, see my post on 11 Sep...Hey Luc,<br />Regarding the Gain, see my post on 11 September 2018. If those values are still too much, try the combo 270k and 820pf. <br /><br />To lower the output, if you already have a 5k Audio pot, try that for the Volume control. If you don't have one, put a 10k resistor across lugs 1 and 3 and see if that helps. You can also try and increase the value of the 1k output resistor. <br /><br />But probably the most effective would be to add a resistor between the output's 22u cap and lug 3 of the Volume pot. Try this: Add a temporary pot between the 22u cap and volume control by disconnecting the wire running to lug 3 of the volume pot, hookup another pot's lug 1 to that wire, then run a wire from lug 2 of the temporary pot to lug 3 of the volume pot. Then with the volume pot set at noon and the temp pot turned all the way down, adjust the temporary pot clockwise until you get the output volume you are looking for while the volume control is still at noon. Then disconnect the temporary pot and measure the resistance between lugs 1 and 2. That's the approximate value of the resistor you'll want to add between vol control lug 3 and the 22u output cap. <br /><br />As for the Cabinet switch, that switch boosts the low frequencies which in turn increases the volume. If you really-really-really wanted to try and lower the volume on one those outer switch settings, you could use a DPDT On/Off/On and wire up the 2nd pole to alter the output volume. Couple of ways this can be done, but I would suggest just turning down the volume control as originally intended. But if you want to give it a go, start a thread in the forum's troubleshooting section and I'll give you a hand. MAOhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11710844420932336422noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post-41298315086995743622021-09-26T20:13:45.949+01:002021-09-26T20:13:45.949+01:00Hi. I've just built this and like it a lot, so...Hi. I've just built this and like it a lot, so thank you very much! I've already built a couple of pedals but I'm a beginner as to understanding and modifying the circuits, so pardon me as these are probably trivial questions. There are two things I'd like to modify, maybe you can help me out. First the B10k pots. In my build, the input level is already matched at about 1/3 of the volume pot and my personal gain sweet spot is also well below 1/2 of the pot and I find it fiddly to hit the sound I'm looking for. I've already replaced the B10k with A10k, which has improved the situation a little. Still I'd prefer to have about half the volume and half the gain - what would I have to change? The second thing is the cabinet switch. Both non-off positions produce a significant volume boost that I'd like to even out. How would I go about this? Luc Tonnerrehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07647162251848028875noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post-30705973541202814692021-05-04T09:22:04.213+01:002021-05-04T09:22:04.213+01:00Can anyone please tell me Instead of 1.8v zener di...Can anyone please tell me Instead of 1.8v zener diode,may i use 1.8V 5mm Red LED ?Damianhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09620361977224666570noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post-89689343149923408632020-06-16T05:57:11.884+01:002020-06-16T05:57:11.884+01:00Ah thank you very much! That makes sense now. Ah thank you very much! That makes sense now. axedoc2010https://www.blogger.com/profile/14616189323920103705noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post-37160296237274312222020-06-14T21:05:08.242+01:002020-06-14T21:05:08.242+01:00This layout was based on Bugg's original schem...This layout was based on Bugg's original schematic which had a buffered bypass rather than a true bypass. <br /><br />Sw4-3 is the bufferred output, basically it taps into the signal coming off pin 1 of the 1st IC.<br /><br />You can go with the true bypass as you described, if so you don't need the 1k, 10k or 22u that trace back from the Switch 4-3 connection. And you wouldn't make the Sw4-3 connection either.<br /><br />MAOhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16009444316767677263noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post-81055268631004700312020-06-14T15:21:32.341+01:002020-06-14T15:21:32.341+01:00I'm sure there is a simple explanation but its...I'm sure there is a simple explanation but its eluding me right now - but why not use a 3PDT instead of the DPDT switch for bypass? Sw4-1 seems to be the effect output so this would go to the out of the 3PDT and the 'in' of the board would go to the In of the 3PDT. Not sure what the purpose of Sw4-3 is?axedoc2010https://www.blogger.com/profile/14616189323920103705noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post-37488226257658748322020-04-03T05:00:49.066+01:002020-04-03T05:00:49.066+01:00Awesome, thanks!Awesome, thanks!Mulekickerhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02560136987462145600noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post-83279983582252988222020-04-03T03:58:38.099+01:002020-04-03T03:58:38.099+01:00I did try TL072s, they were fine.
But I was so im...I did try TL072s, they were fine.<br /><br />But I was so impressed with this pedal I ordered more of the 2134s and went with them in every build. <br /><br />I never could tell the difference with or without the 1.8v zeners though. I'm still wondering what their purpose is...or if there is a schematic error. Never seen that type of arrangement before, or since.<br /><br />I've tweaked just about every switch setting to get them just right for my setup. <br /><br />Let me know if you decide to modify any settings, I might be able to save you some time. <br /><br />MAOhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16009444316767677263noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post-76484944067931655022020-04-03T03:12:47.403+01:002020-04-03T03:12:47.403+01:00Nice, that sounds like a good fix. Don't get m...Nice, that sounds like a good fix. Don't get me wrong, I'm loving this thing. So much so that I wanna make sure I squeeze every drop of functionality out of it. Did you ever compare tlo72s to the 2134s? I'm out of 2134s and should probably order some. Thanks!Mulekickerhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02560136987462145600noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post-37521227149586109992020-04-03T02:23:42.121+01:002020-04-03T02:23:42.121+01:00Try a log taper for both the high cut and gain con...Try a log taper for both the high cut and gain controls, IMO that puts more of the pot rotation within the sweet spots for this pedal.<br /><br />The bright switch is only noticeable with lower gain control settings. Again, a log taper will stretch out the lower zone.<br /><br />On another note, the switches have a very wide range, some settings are not usable depending on your gear. Best to tweak some values based on your needs. <br /><br />But even without tweaking values, still my favorite amp in a box pedal...FWIW.MAOhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16009444316767677263noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post-39254137838913807442020-04-03T00:54:49.427+01:002020-04-03T00:54:49.427+01:00Just built this with a few subs, op275 op amps and...Just built this with a few subs, op275 op amps and 3.3v zeners. It sounds great but it seems too dark compared to all of the demos. If I turn the hi cut up past a quarter turn anyway. Also, I can't detect any noticeable difference between the bright switch settings. Maybe an error somewhere on my side. Anyone else have this issue?Mulekickerhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02560136987462145600noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post-67672565480710679142019-08-07T06:17:27.730+01:002019-08-07T06:17:27.730+01:00Thanks for the reply Zach, and I understand the ex...Thanks for the reply Zach, and I understand the explanation. I just feel that there always ought to be a link to the schematic that was the basis for the tagboard build. Some constructions have a lot of different schematics out there, and to be able to debug a build, the correct schematic is essential.Knuddihttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02358670101480703855noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post-27648010561530598682019-08-07T01:02:40.391+01:002019-08-07T01:02:40.391+01:00This has been explained numerous times. The schema...This has been explained numerous times. The schematics are not our work and as such we can not share them. In most of the layouts there is a link to the source of the schematic, if not you can find them by using google. Zachhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00044917566185720896noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post-49998015368146345152019-08-06T12:06:44.738+01:002019-08-06T12:06:44.738+01:00Why aren't the schematic shared along with the...Why aren't the schematic shared along with the tagboard layout, so that the source of the build can be identified?Knuddihttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02358670101480703855noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post-89331449756623367582019-02-25T05:09:49.078+00:002019-02-25T05:09:49.078+00:00R4 is 1K / not 10K.
10K is volume up a bypass sign...R4 is 1K / not 10K.<br />10K is volume up a bypass signal. <br />and cause pop noise when truebypass Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02257495319575618776noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post-4456669069165199372018-12-03T12:27:41.296+00:002018-12-03T12:27:41.296+00:00Finished mine this past weekend. My switches are e...Finished mine this past weekend. My switches are exactly as you describe. I'm glad you indicated that as I would possibly have thought that I had a build error. Especially that bright switch - can barely hear the difference between the settings. May tweak those cap values on the next build ( sockets...).<br /><br /><br />Thankstinkercreakhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07453762648872549559noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post-64641193866065421602018-10-24T18:22:27.599+01:002018-10-24T18:22:27.599+01:00I have not but I did replace the preamp of a littl...I have not but I did replace the preamp of a little practice amp with it. <br /><br />The power amp and speaker are very dark in this amp, but the TWE was able to adjust for it with the cab, presense and hi cut controls. <br /><br />It was a bit loud, so I had to lower the gain of the power amp, but sounds great.<br /><br />I'm thinking it will work well direct. Most likely with completely different settings than feeding an amp. <br /><br /> MAOhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16009444316767677263noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post-61885610809860056682018-10-24T18:05:21.379+01:002018-10-24T18:05:21.379+01:00Did anyone try plugging this straight to PA?Did anyone try plugging this straight to PA?cacopandahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17903314093674324849noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post-48822045950421714292018-10-10T08:21:43.160+01:002018-10-10T08:21:43.160+01:00Thanks for your answer !
I will try playing with c...Thanks for your answer !<br />I will try playing with caps values for the brite switch<br />Also, I think the gain pot tap is a bit off, it's kinda on/off thing. I'll try the mod suggested before in the comments, maybe with a log taper pot.<br />The bass response is a bit flubby, not very tight, but also may be from playing at low volume on a 10" speaker.<br />I'll be interested in your feedback with opamps, thanks !Alltrax74https://www.blogger.com/profile/13079701857494829507noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post-74376481172560483202018-10-09T22:44:13.333+01:002018-10-09T22:44:13.333+01:00Mine responds exactly as you described, and I beli...Mine responds exactly as you described, and I believe that is by design so you are good there. <br /><br />The 2134s may have an effect on the touch sensitivity and possibly on the edge of breakup, but that's just a guess. <br /><br />If you can hold off for a week or so, I am planning to build another one and will try it with TL072s. I can then AB the two and see if there is a difference between the 2134s and TLs. (was planning on doing this regardless)<br /><br />Those zeners are still a mystery to me. And the diodes look like some kind of crossover distortion arrangement, again kind of unique as I haven't spotted that setup in another pedal. <br /><br />Whatever the case, I love the sound and responsiveness of this pedal. We will have to see how much influence the 2134s have, the zeners appear to have none. <br />MAOhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16009444316767677263noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post-87135471928366240552018-10-09T20:35:27.257+01:002018-10-09T20:35:27.257+01:00I just finished building it and plugged it in my t...I just finished building it and plugged it in my test box<br />I built it without the zener diodes and with TL072 instead of 2134<br />Everything is working fine but I have a few remarks I'd like to share:<br />- I have a huge volume boost between the 3 positions of the cab switch<br />- Same with the Hi position of the presence switch<br />- Bright switch is pretty subtle<br />Are you guys experiencing the same ?<br />Is it worth purchasing 2 2134 to replace the TL072 ?<br />ThanksAlltrax74https://www.blogger.com/profile/13079701857494829507noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post-10284623614557944302018-09-17T19:16:46.964+01:002018-09-17T19:16:46.964+01:00Actually I tried swapping their orientation and, I...Actually I tried swapping their orientation and, I agree, they don't seem to contribute anything to the sound. I wouldn't be surprised to know the same effect even without. Thanks!cacopandahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17903314093674324849noreply@blogger.com