Ahoy! Welcome to your new Depths Optical Vibe Machine! The Depths is our take on the classic optical vibe circuit. Now you can swab the decks with the same lush, pulsating, three-dimensional swirling sound you know and love, with some modern accouterments for all you land-lubbers out there.
The Depths is optimized for use with all kinds of instruments, pickups, and to play well with dirt, so nobody’s left waiting on shore. If it’s got a ¼” output, plug it in and get deep!
In addition to the classic vibe controls, the Depths features unique controls for “Voice” and “Throb.” The “Voice” control adjusts the midrange focus of the Depths, which is perfect for tailoring the effect to your particular instrument. Clockwise, you’ll hear a fuller sound with a low-end focus. Counter-clockwise, you’ll hear a thinner, spikier sound with a forward upper-midrange bite. The “Throb” knob adds a hefty subharmonic low-end pulse to the vibrato signal, which is especially useful on synthesizers and the bass guitar. It sounds great with a little bit of dirt on the neck pickup of a guitar, too! This works best with the “Voice” turned counter-clockwise for a warmer tone.
The Depths’ “Intensity” and “Rate” controls are dialed in to give you the classic optical vibe sound at more modest settings, but dive in deeper and you’ll find anything from a smooth ultra-slow warble to sharp, speedy bursts! Also, the “Level” control has tons of output above unity on tap to combat the perceived volume loss of most vibe pedals, so your tone is always above water. And, if 9v isn’t enough to keep you afloat, the Depths may be powered at 18v for a stiffer tone with more headroom and sparkle.
We've got 2 layouts for you.
Layout 1: We've got the the LFO off the main board to hopefully prevent the dreaded LFO tick. Should fit in a 125b like the original. Downside is that there is more offboard wiring you will need to do.
Layout 2: Slightly larger board, with the LFO on the main board. You shouldn't get any ticking, and you'll save on having to deal with the extra offboard wiring.
This comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteAnyone have a schematic?
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
Deletehttp://guitar-fx-layouts.42897.x6.nabble.com/EQD-The-Depths-gut-shots-td34241.html
Delete:-)
Verified bottom layout! Had to use diffused LEDs as for some reason when i turn up the voice pot to max it blows the clear ones. Used GL5549s for LDR and diffused yellow LED. Need to try some different LED colours and maybe LDRs as its not quite perfect yet but pretty damn close.
ReplyDeleteScrap that about the clear LEDs. I must of had a couple of dodgy LEDs as tried again with a clear and it worked fine.
DeleteSchematic is in the Forum section.
DeleteThanks Gavin!
Does it sound like the video?
It's hard to say as these guys can really play and there setup is probably very different to mine but mine definitely isn't as clean sounding but that may be the choice of LDRs or LEDs. Its something i need to experiment with when i have time. Oh, thanks as always for your sterling work and all who contributed, Cheers.
DeleteOk, so the noise seemed to be from the LED attached to the pedal (used an Ultrabright) as i hadn't covered the LED/LDRs. Normally that isn't a problem as I like my studio quite dark. Covered the LDRs/LED with a bottle cap and it cleaned it right up. Now sounds like the video, pretty much.
DeleteSchematic is not in the forum section. At least not in any of the threads the search engine comes up with ....
Deletenot sure how you're searching in the forum will, but it's under the requests section, and it's on the first page of the thread.
Deletehttp://guitar-fx-layouts.42897.x6.nabble.com/EQD-The-Depths-gut-shots-td34241.html
OK I found it.
DeleteThanks for the quick reply, Zach!
Honestly, I tried this again. If you enter the title to the layout as posted above the 3 search returns that come back don't include this thread. It's probably because the thread with the schematic has a shortened title (with the initials EQD) instead of using the full title; Earthquaker Devices. I guess I should have figured this out myself.
Thanks again Zach,
Will
Maybe try a GL5528 or GL5537? 150k-10M for the 5549 is quit a big sweep vs a 15k-1M for the GL5528.
ReplyDeleteHey Arnold, Thanks for the suggestions. I do have these and will give both a try out. Will let you know the results when i give them a try.
DeleteSpell check requested in the title aisle please. :-)
ReplyDeleteOps! :)
DeleteHow do you guys feel about a 2n5088 as a replacement for the MPSA18? Tayda does have them, but I just did an order a week ago and it'll be a while before I can do another. I've got everything else.
ReplyDeletenope. mpsa18 have gains in the 10000 range. you should be able to grab a few super cheap on ebay for now if you don't want to wait for an order from tayda, in fact thiashine on ebay is tayda with shipping basically included. it's always good to have mspa18 around, so i would get a few now for this build, then on your next tayda order add a bunch cause they're still super cheap.
DeleteSocket and try. It might work, as the MPSA18s are here the LFO, so the different hFE might not be a problem. But I do agree with Zach: MPSA18s are always handy, so it makes sense to stock a few in your parts box.
Deletempsa18 are in the 650-1000 hfe range usually . i have some 2n5088 that are in the 450- 580 hfe . 2n5089 are in the 580-770 range always exceptions but as long as you get over 580 it should be fine
Delete...and that's Layout 1 with the daughterboard verified too. No ticking and fits in a 1590B!
ReplyDeleteCheers lads
Cool Ciaran! Thanks for the schematic!
DeleteHow do you guys think this compares to the Runoffgroove Tri-vibe?
ReplyDeleteThe playing in the demo is fantastic. And here I thought I wasn't a fan of vibrato pedals :p
I've built this, the Tri-Vibe and Madbeans Wigl. So far I like this the best but I need some time to compare.
DeleteThe TV is great but I found I only used the Univibe setting so I didn't want a BB size pedal on the board when I could build a dedicated vibe in a B. So I built the Wigl. Another good one but not as shifty as The Depths.
Need to put this on the board now and see how I get on.
The Tri-vibe has a vibrato mode and a Phaser mode a la Phase 45, which is a subtle, vibe-y phaser (mode 3, "whirl" is a blend of both). The Depths seems more like a straight univibe type circuit which will have more throb and movement than the phase mode of the tri-vibe (swirl).
DeleteAbout ldrs i remember pangea project, a wodoo vibe clone, using 3 5549 and one 5516. Wich ones have you used withthat one? Are they working properly? Great schem and layout by the way!
ReplyDeleteSeems like it doesn't go very slow. Kind of medium speed to fast.
ReplyDeleteI'm wondering if there's a cut beneath the LDR on row 'A' of the first layout? I'm not getting any throbbing with my build.
ReplyDeleteYes there is.
DeleteHas anyone succesfully built the 125B version? I built it up, but am getting no signal passing. Audio probing it, I get signal to the TL074 (pin 5), but nothing after that. The rate, intensity and voice pots all seem to work, so its just a question of why my signal is not getting through the first IC.
ReplyDeleteThanks
i believe ciaran verified that one. post up pictures, description of the problem, and your voltages in the debugging section of the forum.
DeleteHi Dan!
DeleteI'm having the same issue. When turning the effect on all the sound goes away.
Does anyone have any idea?
Meanwhile, it's a great site and I appreciate all the work that has been done! It's a great library here! :)
Thanks!
Attila
Sry , left out: I also tried the first version with two tagboards.
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteBuilt Layout 2 (onboard LFO) and verified that it's working great with no LFO ticking! Used 4x GL5539 LDRs and a 5mm water clear green LED.
ReplyDeleteI also wired the LED indicator's + to the LFO's +, so the LED indicator now pulses with the LFO!
Hi Yonathan, how did you manage to let the indicator led pulsate with the rate? I tried connecting it to voice 3, but this resulted in an out of phase led pulsation and a big influence on the Overal effects sound creating some sort of double echo effect. Does your solution leave the sound unharmed?
DeleteHi Jonathon Yi, how did you wire the led indicator that oscillates along with the LFO?
ReplyDeleteThank you
Anyone tried the vero on 18V?
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteyeah I have! To me the difference is minimal, not enough to make me want to go the extra expense to use a 18v supply. I think it's great on 9v as is. Also I have tapped the minus on the LFO to a LED with the plus going to the 9volt supply. This way there was no change to the tone or settings. However, when you turn the voice down the indicator gets brighter instead of replicating the LFO when it get less bright!! Still no difference to the tonal output. Hope that helps?
ReplyDeleteHi Bill thanks for the reply. Im kinda new to univibes so if you say the minus of the LFO Do you mean the minus of one of the four LDR's?
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DeleteGreat!!!
ReplyDeleteI'll see how it goes
Sorry for late reply....no the minus side of the LFO LED, I used a 9v supply for the indicator LED with a CLR 3k3 and connected the minus side to the minus side of the pulsing led. But the brightness will work in reverse to the voice control, so maybe not a great idea!! I also used a 4558D chip instead of the TL072 and it works really well.....I think maybe my TL072's maybe fake!!!!
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteFigured it out almost immediately after I posted. lol.
DeleteOk. I thought I had this all figured out, but I did not.
ReplyDeleteI'm getting signal when the effect is on, but there is no effect. no swoosh, though I can hear the lfo clock with everything dimed. As such the LED is pulsating and reacting to Voice, Rate, and Intensity, so I'm pretty confident the LFO is functioning.
I'm using four LDR's from tadya, which the datasheet I can find says should have 10k - 500k range, though when I measure with my multi they are more like 20-30k to 1m or more. Not quite sure I'm getting accurate readings tho.
Should I just get some GL5539's? I feel like I should be getting some kind of effect in this range, even if its not accurate to the original.
So here are my IC voltages. source is reading around 9.4
TL074
p1:4.7
p2:4.7
p3:4.6
p4:9.4
p5:4
p6:4.7
p7:4.7
p8:4.7
p9:4.7
p10:4.7
p11:0
p12:4.7
p13:4.7
p14:8.7
TL072
p1:0.7
p2:0.6
p3:4.7
p4:0
p5:4.7
p6:2.8
p7:0.6
p8:9.4
As I said, the LFO seems to be working correctly, but here are the voltages regardless.
Q1
C: 3-4v swing
B:0.5
E:0
Q2 (yes I accounted for orientation)
C:2-3v swing
B:0.7
E:0.1
I've done my normal debugging routine, and I haven't missed any cuts or links that I can see, everything seems to be in the right place, but links to pics just in case. http://imgur.com/a/aHEDI
any help is appreciated, I'd really rather not have to rebuild this bad boy.
thanks
P14 on the TL074 seems very high. Check for a short there.
ReplyDeleteFound it! up and running now, and boy does it sound cool. Thanks Mr. Grim, I really appreciate the help.
DeleteHappy to help! I too received a lot of help here over the years, time to give back :)
DeleteHi Dr Jones, I have a similar issue. I was wondering how you solved the issue
Deleteis there a vibrato or tremolo mod that i could do?
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteWhen running the effect on 18V and with high intensity, I get a clear LFO tick. When I switch back to 9V it disappears. Also when I roll back intensity and/or voice when using 18v makes it also almost disappear (but not 100%).
ReplyDeleteAny thoughts? The original is also able to run on 18V, hence the question.
PS I use a switchable chargepump (9v/18v) with a LT1054.
I've tried layout 2 and for some reason the bulb only powers on when i connect 'c' to a power rail taking the voice pot out of the equasion. Sooo confused. Can anyone help?...
ReplyDeleteStart by triple checking for shorts and reflowing your soldering. By C you mean the collector of the MPSA18? Did you also check that you got the orientation of the LED correct?
DeleteI have never used LDR's before. I assume there is no + or - ? Was planning on using a 5mm clear LED. Also wondering if the LDR "grills" needs to be oriented facing the LED or if facing up will suffice? Any need for a reflective surface inside the box?
ReplyDeleteA LDR has no + or -, it is just a light dependent resistor :)
DeleteI have tested this one with all kinds of LED (transparant, diffuse, red, green, yellow and blue) and personally find the combo of diffuse yellow with 4x GL-5549 the best.
For this build you can best position the LDR facing the LED and put it close to the LED. There is no need for a reflecting cap. The original also does not have a reflecting cap.
any video of a working build ?
ReplyDeletehttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l-PI_LXJ36w
DeleteDoes anyone else think the throb control is a bit weak??? I am really struggling to hear what it does, and i can't see any changes with the led. For a while i was thinking it was my build and that maybe it was a faulty pot or something but after watching some demos for reference I still can't hear it doing anything. Any of you guys had this issue. I haven't bothered matching my ldrs as it sounds pretty damn good and true to the demos, beats my madbean univibe build.
ReplyDeleteI can't say I hear a difference yet. I never match my ldr's on these circuits and they don't sound anything less than anyone else's I've heard but that's just me.
DeleteSame here
DeleteSo I've been working on this pedal (The first design with the offboard LED circuit) for a little bit and can't quite get it to work. I have signal passing through from input to output, but the signal isn't being effected by the LED pulses. The LED circuit seems to work fine (Yellow diffuse LED with GL5539s) since the LED rate and intensity changes with the pots, and I can hear a white noise pulsing with the LED using audio probing. I can't seem to find where the input signal gets lost through the effect circuit. Here are my voltages to ground:
ReplyDeleteIC1 (Top):
P1 = 4.4
P2 = 4.4
P3 = 3.9
P4 = 0
P5 = 4.2
P6 = 4.3
P7 = 3.3
P8 = 8.9
IC2 (Left):
P1 = 7.6
P2 = 6.0
P3 = 4.4
P4 = 0
P5 = 4.4
P6 = 4.7
P7 = 1.3
P8 = 8.9
IC3 (Right):
P1 = 1.5
P2 = 4.5
P3 = 4.4
P4 = 0
P5 = 4.4
P6 = 4.4
P7 = 7.5
P8 = 8.9
Q1 (Top): Varies with LED Intensity
C = 1.0 - 6.7
B = 0.7 - 3.1
E = 0.1 - 2.4
Q2 (Bottom):
C = varied too much to measure
B = 0.6
E = 0
D1 (LED): works fine
D2 (1n5817):
Anode = 9.2
Cathode = 8.9
Any help would be greatly appreciated! I'm considering just replacing the bottom two ICs and the MPSA18s, but was hoping y'all might have a more precise fix. Thanks!
Hi Phil, I have te same issue. Did you already solve the problem?
DeleteCompleted the layout with o/board LFO, works like a charm, almost. I used GL5549 LDRs and a white diffused LED. However, I strongly suggest adding an offset control as per JC Maillet's instructions for his univibe build, also found in the Harbinger One build. I had a problem with LED stop oscillating when intensity, voice and rate were down low, and then would only start up slowly after cranking the said controls all the way back up, if I didn't it would sit frozen. Also the LED was still fairly bright in it's 'off' position so the depth of the vibe was a bit shallow. I built a few Harbinger One pedals (vero and pcb) last year and remembered the offset control, and it's a similar circuit so I just spliced it in. That solved both problems, LFO doesn't freeze and works smoothly, the depth of vibe can be adjusted now to your taste. I believe the gain trimmer in the univibe clones works similar to the Voice control on the Depths. Works mint! I used GL5549s in a univibe build and they worked really well so i used them in this. Also I would use either yellow or white diffused leds, more predictable performance, the only thing that I believe that matters is how bright and how dark they become and being able to control those 2 things which you can with Voice and offset control. Offset trimmer works best for me at about 1 o'clock. The other being the properties of the LDR's. I was going to try GL55339s and GL5528s but it works so well I can't be bothered, I'll just build another one. I boxed this in a 125B. I am not an expert in this field but I like to have a go and fix things if I can, so thanks Zach for this layout and all the other experts upon whose shoulders I am always standing.
ReplyDeleteI have attached some pics of the build and layout for adding the offset mod. Refer to Madbean Harbinger One layout and JC Maillet's Univibe instructions for offset control information and schematic.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/kzqrt2q4akdok6k/Depths%20Gutshot.JPG?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/iknpsx5u83cj4j6/Depths%201.JPG?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/bmbfssbg09wiolc/Depths%202.JPG?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/i6siegpuoalcmgt/Depths%203.JPG?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/l7yv1cqu20ohtx9/Depths%20Offset%20Mod%20Guide.jpg?dl=0
I know this is an old thread, but I want to thank you for posting the trimmer info. I was stumped on trying to get the LED to go dark in between pulses - the vibe was subtle it was unusable. The little 3x7 daughter-board fit perfectly on the side of the 125B. The pedal now sounds amazing!!
DeleteNow if I could just get rid of the load pop when when I stomp on the switch. :-(
Hi,
DeleteThank you for your daughterboard tip, that is very handy!
Im having trouble getting my rate pot to work on this effect. I have it on a breadboard, not insidecan enclosure. My LED does not pulsate. I have signal, and i can hear that the output level, throbe and tone work (LED gets brighter and dimmer with tone control), but get no intensity or rate control. Ive gone over the layout and checked for solder bridges a dozen times. I only know how to use an audio probe when checking for signal with a dead circuit. Since i have output, and my soldering and layout work looks good, im not sure what to do. Any tips would be greatly appreciated.
ReplyDeleteDid you check your transistors? Looks like they're not ok. Check their orientation and/or replace them.
DeleteShould be LDR's not LED's and they need to be covered (I used a bottle cap on my test circuit) until you box it.
DeleteThe circuit works so I would go over the layout again and check EVERYTHING, every component, cut, link,component value etc. 99 percent of the time it will be a small mistake you have overlooked. If you are unlucky a faulty component but I'd check that layout again first as you may have tunnel vision and keep looking past the problem. Like Arnold said, check transistors and IC's and go from there.
DeleteCheck your electro values. If the 47uF are smaller it would look like the LFO isn't working, when in fact it is...just really, really fast. That's what tripped me up when I did the trace.
Delete@patrick shroering - did you sort your problem? I'm having the same issue and wondered if you had a solution.
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
Delete
DeleteThis is patrick, sorry for the late reply, i had the wrong value resistor in the circuit somewhere. I started going through every components checking their values. I stay pretty organized, but i learned not to just grab the component from the labeled drawer and go... gotta check em first, make sure you got the right one
@oldmanonthehill... had the same problem too. It was a bad MPSA18 transistor at Q2.
DeleteIs it possible to use only one LDR, with 3 strap between each lugs of one LDR ??
ReplyDeleteSalve a tutti..ho costruito questo progetto e funziona tutto tranne il throb...non ha alcun effetto sul suono...qualche suggerimento?
ReplyDeleteGrazie mille e buon lavoro a tutti...
Built it, worked on first try but I now remember why I sold my original The Depths some time ago. I think I'm more of a vibrato guy. But there's nothing wrong with this and if you're into vibes -> go with it.
ReplyDeleteI used 45k-140k,10M LDR's and a diffuse yellow LED.
I built the second one, with the TL074. Works great, but i dont hear the throbe working?...ive built the first layout using 3 TL072’s, and the throb worked great. With the TL074 layout, i seem to hear the theob work, very sibtly, only ehen the intensity is all the way up. Any ideas on where my mistake could be?
ReplyDeleteI had the original some time ago and remember that the throb was also very very subtle. I also built the second layout. Maybe I should try the first one or somebody has an idea for a tl074 replacement?
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteCan anyone please tell me how the lugs of the dual pot are numbered and should the led be on when the effect is off? Thanks.
ReplyDeleteLed does not pulsate. Intensity of the led only changes when I rotate the voice pot. Any help would be appreciated.
ReplyDeleteThanks.
Intensity pot should do that. Brighter for a brighter sound, dimmer for darker. Id check everything around the rate pot or in its path. Check your values and make sure theyre all correct.
DeleteThanks Gumbi I am not sure of the numbering of the dual gang pot. I have it as top row from left to right lugs 1 2 3 and bottom left to right 4 5 6. Is that correct? I just checked it again and the intensity pot does nothing and when I turn the voice pot cw the led gets brighter and dimmer if turned ccw. Never does the led pulsate.
DeleteThanks for posting this great layout. +
ReplyDeleteIs it possible to wire the LED to have it flicker as the degree of rate?
This pedal is laying on my workbench for some time now and can't figure out what is wrong. I double checked all the wiring, replaced the IC's for new ones and played around with different LDR and LED's but can't seem to solve the problem.
ReplyDeleteI made the layout with the separate LED board for experimentation proposes. I used TL072CP ic's and the MPSA18 transistors. For LDR I used LDR 30k-90k, 5M. (but I also tried other ones).
So this is the status. The LED flickers and I get sound when I play my guitar trhough it but it seems to be uneffected. When I change the rate the rate changes and the depth changes the brightness of the LED.
Using a 9V battery as power source i got these readings from the board
IC1 Top Left
1 2.82
2 2.82
3 2.48
4 0
5 5.5
6 2.6
7 2.7
8 2.7
IC 2 (Bottom left)
1 5.4
2 4
3 2.4
4 0
5 5.3
6 1.3
7 3.5
8 2.6
1 1.42
2 2.68
3 2.6
4 0
5 5.2
6 3.9
7 2.8
8 2.2
MPSA 18 TOP
C Fluctuatin between 0.8 and 1.8
B 0.8
E 0.2
MPSA18 (bottom)
C fluctuating between 1 and 2.3
B 0.56
E 0
I did all basic checks... I hope somebody can help me out with this.
Thank you in advance!
you have serious power issues. Pin 8 on all IC's should measure around 9V. Check for shorts.
DeleteThanks Arnold, will try to take a look at this this weekend!
DeleteSeems i cannot find any shorts...
DeleteWell, you got a 7V voltage drop so changes are that somewhere in the supply chain you got a wrong valued resistor or short. Since there is no short, there must be a wrong valued resistor somewhere. A 100k instead of a 10k or a 150k instead of the 15k.
DeleteHellow, has someone build it with other transistor that aren't mpsa 18?Because the only ones i could get doesn't have enough hfe to be real
ReplyDeleteI've seen a few other people have had this problem but don't know what the fix is. LED is powered, and sound comes through, but it is un-effected. Also, the LED brightness is increased or decreased with the voice pot. Is this right? Any help is appreciated.
ReplyDeleteNevermind...One leg of the 1 meg resistor was connected to +9v instead of the ground. Next time I'll do extensive trouble shooting before asking for help.
DeleteSo after I fixed my initial mistakes, I too was having trouble with the rate and intensity pots sort of maxing out and freezing up the LFO LED, having to turn them back all the way to unfreeze. I built and added the daughter board with the trim pot and the two 47k resistors that someone recommended on here. It worked like a charm. The rate can go much slower now without freezing up and the sweep of the intensity has increased as well. Thank you to whoever posted that. I also added the extra LED indicator that flashes in unison with the LFO one. Thanks everybody for posting. And don't tell me about the age of this thread. When someone looks up a pedal to build, it's all new to them.
ReplyDeleteCan you describe the mod a bit more. Where are the 47k and or trimpots placed? How did you add the extra LED? Using an extra transistor or another way?
DeleteLevel pot not working like it should...it's acting more like a mix control. My lfo is also freezing as some have reported. I built the jc maillet offset daughterboard like some have suggested, but it is still freezing at max settings. Anyone have any other ideas? I wanted to add the jc maillet lfo gain control too, but I'm unsure how to add it. I'm not very good at adding to existing Veroboard layouts...could someone tell me how or where to add it? Thanks!!
ReplyDeleteHello,
ReplyDeleteI built it yesterday (with the daughterboard version). The layout is very nicely laidout.
Like others, I couldn't hear the effect. I noticed that the output level is below unity gain, and sometimes i can hear crackles or distortion. I guess I should check around the opamps (because everything else seems fine, according to the way the LED reacts when i turn the knobs).
It was a build error (i used a resistor with the wrong value). Once the build error fixed, the layout works fine, and the effect is fantastic!
DeleteThank you for the great layout!
Try to built this one later. More power guyz!
ReplyDeleteJust built the depths. Awesome !
ReplyDeleteHere is my solution to unfreeze the lfo:i used mpsa18 with 600hfe, replace the 47k res on the collector to base of q2 with 150 k res and lastly solder 3.3k res on lug 3 of intensity knob.
I used a clear green 5mm led.
I hope this will help.thank you tagboardeffects!