This is a great take on the muff and at a reasonable price, so as with others, support the builder when you can and if you don't fancy building a 6 knob effect yourself, then buy one.
Blackout Effector's info:
WHAT IS A MUSKET?
The logical progression from then to now, the MUSKET is based
on one of the raunchiest, best selling fuzz circuits of all time
- taken three giant muffy steps further. With the addition of the
PRE, FOCUS & MIDS controls, the MUSKET is able to traverse
the decades, the continents and the many iterations of the
classic 4-stage fuzz circuit - from emulation to beyond. If you
need fuzz and you need it to be massive...
And bass players, look no further. The Musket brings the
thunder to perfectly compliment your lightning. You'll
find the Musket on pro bass player boards
the world over.
The logical progression from then to now, the MUSKET is based
on one of the raunchiest, best selling fuzz circuits of all time
- taken three giant muffy steps further. With the addition of the
PRE, FOCUS & MIDS controls, the MUSKET is able to traverse
the decades, the continents and the many iterations of the
classic 4-stage fuzz circuit - from emulation to beyond. If you
need fuzz and you need it to be massive...
And bass players, look no further. The Musket brings the
thunder to perfectly compliment your lightning. You'll
find the Musket on pro bass player boards
the world over.
UPDATE:
fakcior on FSB made a few corrections to the schematic. He wrote:
I noticed couple of mistakes during comparison with pictures. Tried them in IvIark layout and worked pretty amazing (no volume drop in tone knob).
At revised schematic:
R27 470k -> 10k (weird mistake)
R17 10k - 56k (also weird mistake, it's clear that's 56k - green/blue/black/red)
C6, C9 47n -> 100n
C11 100n ->47n
Cheers!
So the following layout should clear up the issues some people have had with the tone control volume drop:
Been searching all over the net for a vero for this effect...Can't wait to take a crack at it! Thanks IvIark!
ReplyDeleteNo problem. This hasn't been verified yet, but it's based around a muff template that I did for all the Skreddy pedals which I do know is good, so everything should be good to go.
DeleteIs that supposed to be a "100n" ceramic cap between the "Mids 1" and "Tone 3" wires, and if so, why is it ceramic? Is it just for the convenience of the size? Thanks.
ReplyDeleteYes I just used the ceramic symbol because a 2.5mm pitch is needed so it was physically the right size. To be honest though I'd probably use a film box cap anyway because they're quite good for 2.5mm pitch by just carefully bending back one leg and then bending it out again with a 2.5mm spacing. Make sure you use the latest version of the layout with the additional cut on the Focus 3 line.
ReplyDeleteAlmost finished with this build...but one quick question. What would be the result of substituting 100k linear pots for the 250k tone and focus pots? Would it simply result in a more limited EQ "sweep"? Would I be better off using 500k or 100k for the time being if I dont have any 250k pots? Thanks!
ReplyDeleteFor the Focus pot it probably wouldn't matter so much because it's panning between two input caps and although there will be some difference in the response it probably won't be too dissimilar. The Tone pot has the potential to make more of a difference because it along with the surrounding resistors and caps, it creates the tone filters which can be greatly affected by the individual values. Having said that I just ran a simulation of the tone stack using a 100K, 250K and 500K pot and to be honest the response doesn't change too dramatically. It's very scooped with all 3 pots (without taking the mid pot into consideration) and looking at the entire sweep it is quite similar in all 3. I would say go for the 500K if you want it a bit darker, 100K if you want it a bit brighter. This is always to taste anyway, you may prefer one of those to the stock 250K value anyway.
DeleteThanks for the quick and thorough response! I went with the 100K pot for tone, but will probably switch to the 500k or just wait for the 250k pots to arrive.
DeleteOn another note, I am substituting transistors while I wait for the 5089s to arrive. I have tried several combinations of NPNs including 5088s, mpsa13s, 2n3904s, 2n2222s, etc... but I can't seem to get a good combination that provides minimum noise as well as a smooth output signal/sound. A lot of times it is granulated or has a lot of artifacts when I am not playing or am playing with soft dynamics. With the better combinations I have found, with some work I can "dial in" a very nice fuzz, but in most settings the sound is harsh. That said, do you have any suggestions for specific transistor gains for each stage, or at least viable subs/combos? Do you think the circuit will be more suitable once I retrofit the 2n5089s? If not, would changing a few cap values help smooth out the sound?
2N3904s and 2N2222s will be too low gain for a Muff I suspect. You may get lucky with the 2N5088 but their gain could be as low as 300 and ideally you want to be looking for transistors around 600-650 hfe. MPSA13 is a darlington and so probably has far too much gain.
ReplyDeletePersonally I wouldn't mess with anything yet until you get the 2N5089s. No point in changing something that may not need to be changed.
Do you have a multimeter that measures gain so you can select a good set of 4 transistors for the build when they arrive?
Other transistors to consider are the BC550C and MPSA18
Even with the grab bag of transistors I am using, I am getting great sounds so I can't wait to get the proper components!
ReplyDeleteI do have a multimeter to measure the gain. A set in the range of 600-650 hfe should do the trick then? If the gain varies across each transistor (which it inevitably will) is there any particular order I want to install them in or will it be close enough that order won't matter?
Once again I really appreciate you taking the time to answer my questions... As a tinkerer and hobbyist with no formal training, I can honestly tell you that your feedback is priceless!
-Kellet
Well the first transistor is a buffer and the last is a recovery stage for signal lost by the tone stack. So the main uumph of the pedal is done by the second and third transistors so they're the ones I suggest using the higher gain ones in. But it's all down to what you like, if you're a tinkerer (like me) then you'll socket them and swap them about forever anyway to see what you like best. :o)
ReplyDelete600-650 is mentioned frequently about muffs, I'm sure I've seen the same figures quoted by Marc Ahlfs and we all know what great Muffs he builds.
Got the right transistors socketed and this thing ROCKS! Thanks for the layout!
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteTo get rid of transistor fizz do I want to adjust the capacitors upwards or downwards in value? Right now I have the stock 47n. Also, the tone pot cuts the volume as I adjust towards the middle and brings it back as get to the end of rotation...any idea why this is?
ReplyDeleteIt's the two 470pf caps you want to experiment with, try 560p and see what you think. Sockets could be a good idea for those positions.
DeleteSorry, I misread the note in the layout. Will try it out...thanks!
DeleteAny idea why I'm getting a volume drop in the middle of the tone pot sweep?
ReplyDeleteI'm not sure because all that should be doing is panning between a low pass and a high pass filter. Does it happen with the mid pot at both extremes and are you sure the tonepot is ok?
DeleteThe volume drop occurs in the middle "third" of the sweep, but if the tone pot is turned beyond this on either side everything works fine...it may just be a bad pot, I will replace it and see if that fixes the problem before trying anything else. Thanks.
DeleteHi,
DeleteI have the same problem with the tone pot. Did you solve it?
Thanks
Hi,
ReplyDeleteI' ve already finished my built, but the thing seems to have no balls. I have to max fuzz and pre to hear a slightly fuzzy sound and there's a volume drop when i turn the tone pot, like kellet had the same problem.
Any suggestions?
Thanks
Fritz
Hi, I just finished the layout with the tone-issue fix..
ReplyDeleteI have the same problem with the volume drop.
So.. the new layout does not fix the problem.
Is there a chance you guys could send me the regular schematic?
ReplyDeleteI can't send the schematic because it's someone else IP and so it isn't mine to share. But if you want it you can sign up for an account on freestompboxes.org and you will find it in the Musket thread there.
DeleteThanks!!
Deletei just built this one today and it works, but if built by the revised (second) vero, the focus control and mids controls, both work backwards compared to the real musket demo videos (also compared to the BE musket owner's manual). in other words, it has the most mids fully CCW and the least (most scooped) fully CW. same goes for the focus control, i.e., the least bass fully CCW and the most fully CW. what's strange is that i reversed the leads on the mids control and the mids worked properly, but reversing them on the focus didn't. if this vero was going by the freestompboxes posted schematic, the vero matches it, but IMO, the schematic must be incorrect somewhere.
ReplyDeleteokay, i got the mids and focus controls to operate in the same manner as the original pedal. for the focus, all i had to do was change focus 3 to focus 2 & 3, and change focus 1&2 to focus 1.
ReplyDeletefor the mids, i changed mids 1 to mids 3, and mids 2&3 to mids 1&2.
hope this helps.
Excellent thanks John, I'll update the layout.
Deletei also am running 150pf caps for the three 470pf ones in mine. mine is not fizzy at all even with no caps in the circuit (i used sockets for all three of them). for the 1M resistor, i'm running a 2.2M one, but i really can't tell the difference either way. for the 13K resistor, i used a socket too, since all i have is a 13.3K one one hand, but i really think that you could use a 12K one in there too.
Deletehere's a couple of pics of my build in a 1290B enclosure. since it's a 6 knobber with a pretty large circuitboard, i don't use a battery in this one, (but the originals don't either):
http://johnkvintageguitars.homestead.com/Effects/Fuzz-ODs/Musket/Musketfuzzclone-01.jpg
http://johnkvintageguitars.homestead.com/Effects/Fuzz-ODs/Musket/Musketfuzzclone-02.jpg
and BTW, there's no tone control drop in level in mine.
DeleteLayout updated and thanks for the pics John, great job.
Deletei ended up taking out the 470P caps completely and i have no issues with fizz or noise. (i used sockets for them). i also socketed the first two 1N914 diodes and i'm running 3mm red led's in there instead. they seem to give it a little smoother/softer clipping, a little more output, and a little more headroom before it distorts heavily. and since i'm using this on my basses, i plugged in a 470n cap in place of the 100n one at the output to give it more low end. it sounds great for my bass now.
ReplyDeleteHey John, hope you see this. Your wiring is very clean. I did this same build in a 1590bb and it wasn't nearly as clean. What steps do you use if any to getting a nice build like that?
ReplyDeletei use teflon coated silver stranded wire (26AWG) and just take the time to try and make the wires the correct length (long enough to service it should it ever need it, but short enough so it doesn't look like a rat's nest. ;-)
DeleteThanks! Do you assemble the board to the pots while it is in the enclosure or outside the enclosure?
Deletei solder them with the pots, jack and switch(s) mounted in the enclosure.
DeleteI finished mine and it worked straight away. Hench pedal! Mine has the tone pot volume drop though. Did we ever figure this out? Pics to follow at FSB
ReplyDelete(Incidentally, taking out the 470pF caps is the difference between the "tone wicker" switch being on or off on the tone wicker Muff.)
ReplyDeleteHi Mark,
ReplyDeleteI've changed some of the values to get a Creamy Muff and I've added a switch to get a kind of classic/modern sound.
When the switch is on "modern" it adds the "Pre" and "Focus" pots.
It sounds great but the focus pot is overall too bassy.
Is there any way to correct that?
Should I change the 1uF and 10nF after the pot or the 100nF 13K cap-resistor before it?
Thanks
The Focus pot just pans between the 10n and 1u cap, with the 10n being the brightest side, if the pot is too bassy then swap the 1u for a lower value to taste, and if you swap the 10n as well for something lower then you will be able to go even brighter if you want to.
DeleteCool!
ReplyDeleteI'll try then.
Thanks Mark
Just finished the circuit. Works fine and noticed no output drop using the tone pot, but at these hours of the night, I'm using bedroom levels :P
ReplyDeleteNot a bad circuit at all, but not really surprised, nothing like a big muff to sound like a big muff :P
Will box it anyway, it takes hours of working and i think is a correct effect. By the way, it fits in a 1590B with ease, no problem at all with this enclosure.
BR
Wel,
DeleteBoxed it this morning and was palying about a cu¡ouple of hours with this little box.
Really at normal volume, this effect shines. Sounds like a russain big muff, and the Pre, Focus and Mids knobs are a great adition, mainly the Mids one, that gets a BMP sound really good on band mix playing. Focus and its Bass manage is a good option too. The Pre knob i think is the less useful of the "new" knobs, but it doesn't hurt to have it, so, my final veredict: really good pedal with the correct settings.
Pic:
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=500003746738145&set=a.404470492958138.93220.404417189630135&type=1&theater
BR
I'm getting absolutely no sound. Could someone be kind to post some test points and voltages.
ReplyDeleteTried with BC548B once before with absolutely no results, which is strange. I should have heard something. Currently I'm using 2SC1815 transistors with leads interchanged since I couldn't get any 2n5089. I'm sure it has nothing to do with the transistors.
The test points are between all transistor pins and ground. Post the voltages and it'll give a clue where the problem is.
DeleteAny pictures?
DeleteQ1:
DeleteC - 9.6
B - 0.8
Q2 & Q3:
C - 9.8
B - 1.6
Q4:
C - 9.8
B - 1.6
Q5:
C - 8.8
B - 1.7
All Emitters 0v.
What supply voltage are you using, the collector voltages are very high.
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
DeleteIt's a 9.6v power adapter. Does it still look like a transistor issue? I did check all the wiring again. Seems to be good. Just can't seem to figure out the issue.
Deletehi i have a problem with this pedal when i turn on the swicht there is no sound, nothing i change the board two times revised all the parts i dont know what is happening here are two pictures please help with wiring too bye
ReplyDeletehttp://imageshack.com/a/img163/8720/dbxl.jpg
http://imageshack.com/a/img827/6660/xl83.jpg
I'm curious, when my sustain pot is all the way down, there is still quite a bit of gain going on. Anyone else have this issue? Where should I look? Thanks!
ReplyDeleteThis is not an issue, but a feature. If you check your Sustain por wiring, you'll see that the lug 1 is connected to ground with a 1k resistor. so you'll alwais get a minimum distorion even with the pot fully turned ccw.
DeleteBR
You're the man my friend. I actually designed a PCB from the schematic where this vero was taken from. Pedal works flawlessly, but I just wanted to make sure I wasn't crazy! Appreciate you!
DeleteYo're welcome :) Niced to be of help!
DeleteHi, I've build this and the placement of the parts is correct, no bridges, cuts ar good ect. but no sound when the pedal is off, the volume works as it wil bost a very slight amount of hiss but other then that it's dead quit what should I do?
ReplyDeleteThomas
No sound when the pedal is off?
DeleteIf you mean when the pedal is on, then if all else is correct that leaves a faulty component or possibly a cold solder joint somewhere. Reflow any solder which looks like it may not be right, and hope that it's simply a solder problem because if it is a faulty components you're going to have to go through them to try to identify a culprit.
its when the pedal is on, no cold solder joints tested that as well, :/ Resistors work and I've tested like allot of of the caps as wel, the only thing I didn't test was the transistors but would 1 defect transistor make it dead quit when its on?
DeleteOne defective transistor would make it quiet or even silent in a circuit like this where the stages are in series.
DeleteI have one reserve transistor but how do i know wich one is fault?
DeleteMeasure the voltages between all the pins and ground and that may give a clue. This is why I always socket transistors, it makes swapping take seconds
DeleteMaybe stupid question but on the VERO, there are 2 connections to ground... they aren't connected on the VERO, so i assume you must connect them at input or output? it probably won't do to connect one to input jack and other one to output jack?
ReplyDeleteYes on some layouts there are two ground connections so you would need to daisy chain from one to the next or something like that. I did this in the past when a ground link would mean having to add an extra column, but since I went through that phase I have been going through my older layouts that are 20 columns or less and adding a ground link in because it will still fit in a 1590B so the extra column isn't that much of a problem. So you could add an extra column and add a link, I'll update this anyway myself to add one.
DeleteI'm making this one for me and a buddy of mine... Completed the VERO build but experiencing a problem that i can't solve...
ReplyDeleteThe problem is situated at the first transistor behind input (the lowest one on this vero). When using an audio probe connected to speaker, there's still sound at the base of the transistor, but no more sound at the collector of it going to the rest of the circuit. When connecting the input at that same collector, the guitar sound runs through the rest of the circuit to the output.
I've been checking my connections (specifically the resistor coming from 9V) and values a couple of times, I've been swapping transistors (even measured them, they look fine), I've been audio-probing, I've checked with the schematic found beneath the cat at http://revolutiondeux.blogspot.be/2012/07/blackout-effectors-twosome-dual-fuzz.html (everything looks great!), I've been checking both my builds (they both have the same problem) and I can't find it...
Anyone any idea? I'm at wits' end... Usually this is some stupid small hicup but I just don't see it...
I don't know anything about how transistors work but if I would encounter that problem I would try another transistor or turn it around or reflow the solder
Deleteyeah, done all of the above... also, i'm getting the problem in the two builds i've done, so two malfunctioning transistors would be a huge coincidence, i guess... thx anyway for doing some thinking
ReplyDeleteAlso one little extra remark. When measuring the potentials, I read 9V at both ends of the 10k resistor going to the collector of the transistor. I don't know much about this, but shouldn't it be a bit less?
ReplyDeleteCan you tell us the volages at Q1? It sounds like if you have bridged the base to ground or something similar.
DeleteJ.
Yes, I can :-)
ReplyDeleteC = 9V (obviously)
B = 88.9 mV
E = 0 V
Post a front and back pic of your board
DeleteI've posted my question on freestompboxes also. The pix can be found at http://freestompboxes.org/viewtopic.php?f=58&t=23971
ReplyDeleteI've also checked for unwanted connections between the copper strips, btw
Delete50 rechecks later and finally found the problem: i soldered a 4.7k from base of Q1 to ground in stead of 47k
Deletethx y'all for thinking
sound like a monster!
I finished my built with the Fix'd inside the same box, it works but I've some mistakes, when I play frets, I've the attack but instantly after, I got the general hum of the pedal, I've NO sustain. So it's impossible to play a lead solo. Do you know where this problem came from?
ReplyDeleteThe control of pre and focus are not really incredible, seems to do 15% of what they've to normally do.
i once had a problem with sustain and in the end it was due to a polarized cap I placed in the wrong direction
Deletehello all!
ReplyDeleteI'm feeling newb with this question, but, I bought the kit on bitsbox, and don't understand where to use polybox cap or polyester film cap when they are at the same value??
Bob uses box caps for positions where there is a 3 row span and so appropriate for the caps 5mm pitch. The poly film are included for positions where the required pitch is greater than 5mm.
DeleteThat's what I thought, but some polybox caps have long legs so they could go on with a pitch of 5 or 6 ! However I think it's the better thing to do, thank you very much IvIark! I 'll appreciate to see the tri vibe in kit nearly :)
DeleteHi. GREAT Project! Because I'm a very complicated man (so says my wife), I took your main idea but I designed myself a PCB. Mounted and soldered everything, it worked super nice but I have two great concerns: the "mids" pot has an interesting influence over the timbre (the "tone", if you like) of the effect, but is not drastically noticeable. And the "focus" pot, IMO, makes not a great if not no change at all over the timbre of the effect. I'm using 2N2222 transistors. For the mids pot I'm using a linear one, and for the focus, I used linear pots, first a 220K and then a 100k. The questions is: are those pots meant to make a HUGE difference over the timbre of the effect, or my ear is just not well trained? Please, HELP!
ReplyDeleteI don't think the Mids pot in this is the best way to do it. It adds a pot in before the cap and resistor to ground high pass filter. I think the way it is done in the Hoof is a better way, which doesn't add the pot before the high pass filter, and instead adds the pot the other side between the resistor and ground making it a logical part of that high pass filter. That makes it's effect on the frequency throughout its rotation simple to predict.
DeleteThe Focus pot should make a bigger difference though. It blends the 10n and 1u input cap with the 10n being dominant in the far CCW position, and an additional 1u being put in parallel with it in the far CW position. That should significantly effect the low end and if you're finding the effect only subtle, it may be worth swapping the 10n for something lower like maybe 4n7 to make the far CCW position a more obvious low cut.
Thanks! I THINK I've found the problem: me. Today I was tweaking the pedal and the Focus responded a bit better with less fuzz, or changing the position of both the tone an mids pot. I also tried the effect with a Fender Strat, because I was testing it with a generic Les paul with Gibson pickups, which are bassier and higher gain. It is definitely a matter of playing with the knobs. Thanks a lot!
DeleteHi! Me again. I finally changed the 2N2222 transistors for the 2n5089s. Sounds great an evrything, but now I have a poblem: sounds a little weak. Even with the volumen knob all the way up, it sounds about 50% lower than how the guitar sounds clean without the effect on. What do you think it could be? That's a Little disappointing since I want to use it to play alternative rock, and you know, there you have to have a great level of distortion for the heavy passages. Thanks in advance!
ReplyDeleteso can anyone explain the connections to the pots and input/outputs?
ReplyDeleteI don't know if this is what you want to know, but here I go: if you look at a pot from the back, the terminals are number 1: the one in the righ, number 2: the one in the center and number 3: the one in the left. So in this paricular project, you have to check in the image of the vero board where to connect in the board which tip of the pot. And, for example, where it reads "Focus 2 & 3", it means that you have to put a jumper between termnals 2 and 3 of that pot and then connect them into the board with a longer cable. Remember this project requieres 6 pots, so patience will be needed. With the in/out works similar: in the "in" hole, you have to conect the "hot tip" of a audio jack. The other terminal of the jack must be connected to ground and/or to the negative. Was it clear?
DeleteWas using this as my go to fuzz pedal for my bass rig up until last night... when my guitar player tested it out and begged me to let him use it on his board. GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR
ReplyDeleteSpeaks to the awesomeness of this pedal I suppose.
Charge him his share of gig fees for a few weeks :o)
DeleteHi!
ReplyDeleteI've just built this circuit and wired everything up on my desk to make sure I didn't make any mistakes on the vero board.
The controls don't work quite as expected:
- The mid pot does nothing. If anything, it only changes the sound very very subtly. Here's a small recording of how that sounds:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7033787/midpot.mp3
I go from 0% to 50% to 100% and there isn't really any difference between the clips.
Also with the tonepot turned down (ie in the bass-heavy setting) I get a volume boost.
Any pointers on what could be wrong?
Thanks in advance!
Aaand I figured it out. I accidently put 47pF instead of 47nF caps in there. Thanks anyways!
DeleteI see on the picture Input wire - it's green, but i don't see OUTPUT wire... where is it?
ReplyDeleteIf you don't see it in the layout, you always see it in the notes
DeleteThank you very much.
Deleteplease comment, why here in a set of specified other transistors and diodes http://www.bitsbox.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=280_281&products_id=2040
is it a mistake or is it a worthy substitute.
that does not degrade the sound?
in that kit are taken into account the notes for
"R27 470k -> 10k (weird mistake)
R17 10k - 56k (also weird mistake, it's clear that's 56k - green/blue/black/red)
C6, C9 47n -> 100n
C11 100n ->47n"
?
Thanks for quick answers, and for your exciting project in this blog!!! Best regards.
I just finished building diy Musket, and after few problems(probably bad solder joint) it works just fine! Really great fuzz, i prefer it over my Pharaoh! Thanx!
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteSorry, can someone point me in the direction of the output lead?
ReplyDelete😞
It says it pretty clearly in the bottom left of the layout image. Volume 2 to Output.
Delete+m
Hi, i've just finished my Musket, and i'm getting two problems: the tone pot volume drop, and the effect seems to be lacking gain, i've set the pre and sustain at max, and it has way less gain than the original. I've checked the voltages of the transistors and none of them has more than 8v in the C lead, is that normal? Shouldn't it be 9v? Some help here?
ReplyDeleteThanks in advance!
Is there a schematic for this somewhere? I ordered the kit but dont want to use the strip board. I want to reduce things and print my own pcb. Can anyone help?
ReplyDeleteIs there a schematic for this somewhere? I ordered the kit but dont want to use the strip board. I want to reduce things and print my own pcb. Can anyone help?
ReplyDeletehttp://www.bigmuffpage.com/images/schematics/Musket%20Schematic.jpg
Deleteumm, so the musket is a muff with lpb1 and saturation circuit?
Deletebasically, yes. there's as few other differences. like the focus control is essentially a blend control between 2 input caps, and mids pot. the pre-gain controls how much boost slams into the muff.
DeleteHELP!!!!!! Hi I have just finished the musket fuzz project, when I turn it on all I get is buzzing and no guitar sound at all when the foot switch is off the guitar sounds normal. any advice anyone. Thanks
ReplyDeleteDave
Well your bypass is working... Make sure the circuit is grounded properly and stuff and you have checked for solder bridges and stuff.
DeleteThanks very much for the reply Charles , I have checked all the joints and they are fine, is it best to ground all the component separately or rely on the metal case?. In the kit there were 2 types of 100nF capacitors 8 polybox and 2 polyester film. there is only 8 x 100nF polybox and I need 10 but there are 2 polyester film i'm assuming I should use these but dose it matter where on the board ?
ReplyDeleteFixed it :-) rewired the power plug and added a ground to one of the pots and hay presto, all the controls work great volume. just a bit noisy but i think that is to do with the length and quality of the wire used, so I will buy some decent audio wire, can anyone suggest the best wire to use?
ReplyDeleteHey David, sorry for the late reply. I had a lot of trouble early on with circuits, and I struggled to work out what was going on, until I got my head around grounding. Glad it all worked out!
DeleteI recommend just keeping the wires going from your input/output jacks to the switch as short as possible, and same with the input/output from switch to the PCB.
You can get low gauge shielded wire and use that for the input jack to switch, but it only really has an effect if you are using a long cable run. Just google 'shielded wire input pedal' or something to read discussions on that.
hi me again, any suggestions ? I have bought a guitar pedal power pack for this but when I turn on the pedal it makes a constant squealing noise over the guitar sound. I have been using a 9v battery attached to an external jack plug using the power socket and this runs great with no noise. a I missing something?
ReplyDeleteMy mantra for the day...try adding a 100r resistor in series with the 9v supply. Unfortunately not all PSUs are made alike. Some are great, and some are terrible
DeleteAlso I have had this issue too - it usually goes away when using a better quality power supply - yes some are just made shittily!
Deleteas charles said the power supply is the issue. in cheap power supplies they lack DC filtering and regulation, so what happens is you're getting fluctuations in voltage and "dirty" voltage. you can add a resistor like Ciaran said, you can also build a small regulator.
DeleteThanks for the help everyone. i will give it a go with the resistor.
Deletegreat pedal but it lacks gain . I have to max the pre and the sustain out in order to get creamy fuzzy tones . I chose the highest hfe 2N5089 transistors from the lot I had and used the highest in Q1 . still not fuzzy enough.
ReplyDeleteany suggestions?
thank you
fixed. it was just a cold joint.
Deletenow it rocks!
thanks for the schematic
Does anyone know how to convert this into the Blunderbuss?
ReplyDeleteHi Alex.
Delete-Q2 must be changed with a 2N2222.
-10n capacitor on the very left, Focus 2&3 row, between 100R and 100K resistor: change with a 6n8
-390R resistor top (between 100K resistor and Q4): switch to 100R
-390R resistor on the right, which links Q3's emitter with 100uf negative pole: switch to 100R
-D3: use a standard red led 3mm
-D4: use a 1N34A
Enjoy!
ps. does someone have informations on the Blackout Effectors Crystal Dagger?
A very late thanks, Giò bl.
DeleteDid you trace yours? Where there any other changes? I read about one of transistors also being germanium.
This was a great learning process for my first build.
ReplyDeleteAfter diagnosing all of my wee mistakes the Musket sounds incredible. It's like my Little Big Muff & Boss MD-2 mixed together, so many high gain monster tones to be had.
Thanks for the schem and all the tips and advice on the page.
Building this using the kit from Bits Box, getting very low volume out of it. Most controls appear to work correctly. Tone is a bit funky as its not smooth - jumps in value when opening up and spikes at 12 o'clock then reduces in volume getting to the end of it's travel, might try a different pot, as I've checked connections and values and all appear to be correct... Ran a blade along the chases, so don't see any bridging. But with pre, volume and sustain maxed out it's still falling short of the bypassed volume. Took readings of the trannies as follows:
ReplyDeleteQ1: C - 4.33 / B - .787 / E - 186.8 mV
Q2: C - 3.99 / B - .640 / E - 41.9 mV
Q3: C - 4.5 / B - .741 / E - 145.9 mV
Q4: C - 1.386 / B - .862 / E - .250
Q5: C - 7.93 / B - .862 / E - .306
Any suggestions as to what the issue is would be greatly appreciated!