tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post6028053073910757015..comments2024-03-29T01:36:12.851+00:00Comments on Guitar FX Layouts: Moosapotamus Skippy Tremolo / Ring ModIvIarkhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08416945174853142251noreply@blogger.comBlogger44125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post-35878108390278640662018-06-27T13:36:05.463+01:002018-06-27T13:36:05.463+01:00RE: TICKING...
Hi Chance, thanks for great tips/tr...RE: TICKING...<br />Hi Chance, thanks for great tips/tricks/investigation!<br /><br />I've had some similar unwanted oscillator bleed-through when building a mini-synthesizer (very fun! highly recommended, if for the circuit experience alone!), which can often negated by decoupling the power sources.<br />So I was thinking: This ticking is probably caused by the sudden current draws/drops of the PUT/UJT, which get carried over by the shared V0/V+ connections causing fluctuations all over the place (thus becoming audible via the MPSAs). So I think here it might also help to decouple the entire PUT/UJT power source by giving it a dedicated V+ and GND strip and putting a decoupling cap (10uF?) over the entire LFO section..?<br /><br />I'll investigate soon! (It's still on breadboard..)[WZ]https://www.blogger.com/profile/17086832663136946230noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post-42220980411879009782018-03-21T10:32:33.439+00:002018-03-21T10:32:33.439+00:00Lug 2 of the level potmeter is output.Lug 2 of the level potmeter is output.Adhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11577726496001753744noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post-69505930276488796322018-03-21T04:34:48.394+00:002018-03-21T04:34:48.394+00:00Noob question: Where is the output?Noob question: Where is the output?Everton estrellahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/18345585711173867399noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post-19943527653200856562018-01-13T12:58:54.826+00:002018-01-13T12:58:54.826+00:00I have just built this and can confirm that the ch...I have just built this and can confirm that the changes kindly shared here by Chance do reduce the clicking substantially, though I haven't managed to completely eliminate it. Lovely circuit, very nice sounds indeed. 0friendsrecordingshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17354056201651891355noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post-28235419857261337212017-05-21T01:03:52.999+01:002017-05-21T01:03:52.999+01:00If you apply too much resistance with the trimmer ...If you apply too much resistance with the trimmer you will notice the effect start to degrade.Chancehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/03508039283950531588noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post-9652365029184310262017-05-21T01:02:57.477+01:002017-05-21T01:02:57.477+01:00I just did some further testing with this mod and ...I just did some further testing with this mod and I highly recommend either placing a 510 ohm trimmer (2k works better in the hummingbird) in series with the 33 ohm resistor or just replacing the 33 ohm resistor with the trimmer. Placing the trimmer in series just allows you to retain the stock value if you back the trimmer right off. I now have a squeaky clean Skippy, no tick/pulse but max effect.Chancehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/03508039283950531588noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post-67681069123589252922017-05-18T08:27:04.527+01:002017-05-18T08:27:04.527+01:00Thats great thank you for taking the time to expla...Thats great thank you for taking the time to explain this. I'll definitely implement this when I return to my repeat percussion build. OcularDawnhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/15692163673995532387noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post-11414908328418254602017-05-18T03:47:50.366+01:002017-05-18T03:47:50.366+01:00TICKING... If anyone has a minute can they please ...TICKING... If anyone has a minute can they please have a go at the following mod to deal with this ticking... try replacing (or just perform a quick bypass) the 33 ohm resistor with say a 2k trimmer. I tried a 500 ohm and have now settled for 2k. You should hopefully notice as you adjust the ticking/pulsing can be reduced or near eliminated (with full tone setting if you are using near the 100nf in the schematic, this mod is not so effective on the low value cap like the 4.7nf, too much signal loss needing to much level which then makes the tick more pronounced once again). Between zero and halfway you'll notice the best reduction but beyond that too much resistance starts to minimise the 'chop' and starts to act like a depth control and I guess sounds like a standard tremolo. Test and adjust, you should find a happy medium. It does affect speed you will notice but it's of no real significance, tone is unaffected. Make sure you isolate the GND from the 100uf (c6) and trimmer (what was the 33 ohm resistor) and send it straight to DC NEG pin.Chancehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/03508039283950531588noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post-51790006791642922222017-05-18T02:08:38.429+01:002017-05-18T02:08:38.429+01:00100uf electro top right on this layout (C6 I belie...100uf electro top right on this layout (C6 I believe on Moosapotamus schematic) above the PUT. To make it tidy and easy this is what I did: I had the POS leg remain in place and re-directed it's GND leg. Place a cut somewhere on the third row up from the bottom just to the right of the Q1 emitter which will give us an unused track. Bring the bottom leg of the 33R (or whatever value you may adjust it to) to this track we have isolated. Place the NEG leg of the 100uf on this track also. If you look at my pic I had to bend the leg to the right to achieve this, also had to give it some height as it sits over resistors, no prob as long as you have space in the box. Lastly run GND wire from this track to the DC NEG pin. That's what I did anyway plus change the 33R resistor and it help alot. I'm not an expert here, I can follow a map, but I took notes from R.G. keen and JaviCAP to come up with this solution (thanks guys). Hopefully I can develop an even greater understanding about how these effects work and eliminate the damn ticking from everything 100 percent for good, bloody headache they can be. Pic below:<br />https://www.dropbox.com/s/3cm7kdaoav9kgwm/Skippy%20with%20GND%20MOD.JPG?dl=0Chancehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/03508039283950531588noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post-54268019829598189802017-05-17T14:23:24.202+01:002017-05-17T14:23:24.202+01:00This comment has been removed by the author.OcularDawnhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/15692163673995532387noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post-68970884822281927422017-05-17T14:23:00.161+01:002017-05-17T14:23:00.161+01:00Good stuff Chance. Which 100uf electro do you mean...Good stuff Chance. Which 100uf electro do you mean there are two going to GND. Also did you lift the legs off the two components on the board and connect them directly to GND that way or isolate them with track marks? Just trying to visualise it. Thank you.OcularDawnhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/15692163673995532387noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post-83086287046538393782017-05-17T14:08:26.353+01:002017-05-17T14:08:26.353+01:00Also I placed a 20k resistor in series between Rat...Also I placed a 20k resistor in series between Rate 1&2 and the 4u7 cap. Moosapotamus has a 20k trimmer to dial in the effect. I tried the trimmer and it worked when maxed out. I tried 18k resistor but I lost the effect near the top of the rate pot and replaced with the 20k to work perfectlyChancehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/03508039283950531588noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post-11948934561123696042017-05-17T13:46:43.806+01:002017-05-17T13:46:43.806+01:00Just completed this. Had loud ticking same as the ...Just completed this. Had loud ticking same as the EQD Hummingbird I finished 2 days ago. After some research on this problem I found the following mod reduced ticking by 90-95 percent: replace 33 ohm resistor for 100 ohm (start increasing the value until satisfied with reduction, I stopped at 100R, beyond that I stopped noticing a difference) and lastly isolate ground leg from the 100uf electro cap and the grounded end of 33 ohm (or whatever the value you my hva replaced it with) and connect them directly to the DC socket negative pin. I have applied this to both the Skippy (2n6027) and Hummingbird (2N2646) which both suffered from loud ticking and now drastically reduced. NOW it is faint and not all that noticeable but not 100% either. My goal is reduce it further. Aside from that it is a great pedal although I may adjust the tone until I find a value which resembles the guitar natural tone.<br />Some pics:<br />https://www.dropbox.com/s/kbu9g7tcikp3izo/Moosapotamus%20Skippy%204.JPG?dl=0<br />https://www.dropbox.com/s/fwreejt7e2zc524/Moosapotamus%20Skippy%205.JPG?dl=0<br />https://www.dropbox.com/s/n9hn292mzni5md9/Moosapotamus%20Skippy%20Gut%201.JPG?dl=0Chancehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/03508039283950531588noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post-64670925848125185232017-03-12T06:54:22.640+00:002017-03-12T06:54:22.640+00:00This comment has been removed by the author.Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16360201968388914874noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post-61516984925424138122016-06-15T04:40:39.382+01:002016-06-15T04:40:39.382+01:00Hi,
I recently got the Skippy board and also obser...Hi,<br />I recently got the Skippy board and also observed that the board I have is v1.1 yet the documentation is for v1.0. <a href="http://musicalstudy.com/" rel="nofollow">my homepage</a><br />Is there paperwork for v 1.1 someplace that I missed out on?<br />Many thanks!Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16153954968445483307noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post-75996125115723720712015-12-03T07:24:23.900+00:002015-12-03T07:24:23.900+00:00Hi!
47uf & 4.7uf was very much put 4.7uf &...Hi!<br />47uf & 4.7uf was very much put 4.7uf & 200nf. but the problem is very loud clicks. where I could make a mistake?Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17911332297703772785noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post-53314966296801015642015-09-27T12:38:40.836+01:002015-09-27T12:38:40.836+01:00Hi, how to wiring/connect the CV jack ?Hi, how to wiring/connect the CV jack ?Borishttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11979330645070884243noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post-243836380988188212014-10-30T22:45:11.083+00:002014-10-30T22:45:11.083+00:00playing around with this one again. . . .decided t...playing around with this one again. . . .decided to box it up in a box something else is vacating. The size of the box made me decide to try a pot instead of a switch for the tone control, just to save space. So FYI, a B100k pot works pretty well to pan/blend those two input caps.<br />Also, I hooked up a JFet buffer in front of this to see if it would further reduce clock noise. It did not, but I swear this thing sounds more present and solid with the added buffer. Now to find room in the box for the buffer. . .Andy Millerhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17294129878920769054noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post-58658294989471208322014-08-17T03:19:21.795+01:002014-08-17T03:19:21.795+01:00Looking at the schematic I had a question, is the ...Looking at the schematic I had a question, is the 47u for the range switch supposed to be a 470n? I ask because they used the non polarized cap symbol and labeled it u47 instead of 47u and also this range seems unusably slow. At any rate, I'm going to experiment with those caps.Lukehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/01145615556751106129noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post-71979844149898358272014-08-16T17:39:59.434+01:002014-08-16T17:39:59.434+01:00I have this built and working, it is a fun tremolo...I have this built and working, it is a fun tremolo! However, the ticking from the lfo is very pronounced and seems to get slightly more pronounced when turning the depth pot down. I know the trick about separating lfo and signal ground and connecting them off board but I don't see a simple way to do that with this layout. Maybe I have something else wrong with the circuit though it seems to work fine other than the ticking. Any suggestions to tame the ticking are appreciated.Lukehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/01145615556751106129noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post-1130439782688908722014-07-28T17:07:57.580+01:002014-07-28T17:07:57.580+01:00Trimmer is only needed it the 2N2646 UJT is used. ...Trimmer is only needed it the 2N2646 UJT is used. The trimmer isn't connected in the original if the 2N6027 PUT is used.<br /><br />As for the expression input - <br />"I haven't included the connections required for external expression pedal rate control, opting to keep it self contained, but if you do want to include one, make the connections to the control socket to where the rate pot currently connects to the board, as shown in the scheme on the Moosapotamus site."<br />http://moosapotamus.net/ideas/skippy-tremolo/<br />You can see how it's wired with a stereo jack: http://moosapotamus.net/images/Skippy-v1-scheme.jpg<br />+mmirosolhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02400327798106357876noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post-53024555286883304262014-07-28T16:49:27.900+01:002014-07-28T16:49:27.900+01:00Hi IvIark,
Great job! However, I think it would b...Hi IvIark,<br /><br />Great job! However, I think it would be very helpful if you could include the vero layout for complete version of this effect that include trimpot and expression input. Many thanks!Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/01151070724570700827noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post-42727130653198449582014-04-27T00:00:55.043+01:002014-04-27T00:00:55.043+01:00Thanks for the info Andy, I think I'll add a l...Thanks for the info Andy, I think I'll add a layout with the trimmer then so people have the choice. CheersIvIarkhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08416945174853142251noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post-29086293912495792942014-04-26T22:25:51.590+01:002014-04-26T22:25:51.590+01:00In my build I found that when turning the rate pot...In my build I found that when turning the rate pot towards "faster," the tremolo quit working before the pot was swept to wide open . So I think the idea behind that trimmer is so you can tune the minimum resistance set by the wide-open position of the rate pot, and avoid having a dead zone in the pot sweep. In my build for example, I found that an additional 12K resistor in series with the 100k pot gave me use of the full pot sweep. Using a 2.2mf cap for the fast mode, the fastest speed is really, really fast. . .<br /><br />Thanks for all the cool layouts Mark - lots of fun!Andy Millerhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17294129878920769054noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6847048658257278783.post-22144293870720943882014-04-12T01:07:12.868+01:002014-04-12T01:07:12.868+01:00No Q1 collector is ok, it's grounded and so sh...No Q1 collector is ok, it's grounded and so should be 0V. Q3 collector though definitely isn't. That should be connected to the supply via the 33K resistor and so definitely shouldn't be 0V. Have you missed that link, and is all the soldering good around there? Anyway that's the most obvious standout problem which I think needs sorting first so check all those connections around Q3 collector.IvIarkhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08416945174853142251noreply@blogger.com