Sunday, 18 June 2017

Tubeworks Real Tube 903 Modded Tone Stacks

So as most of you guys know when I'm studying for exams I tend to do a bunch of layouts when taking breaks to keep my sanity. So since I did a layout for the Tubeworks 903 I thought to myself if it's basically a tube pre-amp I thought why couldn't the tone stack be modded to that of some legendary amps. With that in mind, I modified the original layout I made with various tone stacks.

Original schematic can be found on Revolutiondeux.

Layout 1: Fender


Layout 2: Marshall


Layout 3: Vox


Layout 4: Hiawatt DR103


Layout 5: Sunn 1st Gen Model T


Layout 6: Orange OR120 MKII


Layout 7: Matamp GT120


Layout 8: 72 Ampeg SVT


Layout 9: Marshall Superbass


36 comments:

  1. Replies
    1. no prob man. i also just added 2 more.

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    2. omg ...this is a gold mine of layouts. Building the Hiwatt as soon as I log off, will report back with results!

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    3. awesome. hopefully it fires right up. i went through the layouts a few times and didn't spot anything glaring, so i'm fairly confident. plus if you verify it then we hit 1000 verified layouts.

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  2. Hey Zach, any idea what A+ voltage is on these? I think I'd rather use a transformer if possible as opposed to the charge pump/daughterboard, thx.

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    1. it's written in the schematic in the link above. the pump is there to give you +12V DC and -12V DC it's not increasing the voltage, so need to use a +12V DC power adapter.

      if you want to go the route of making using a transformer than you'll need to make a separate board to match the power section in the schematic.

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    2. Ahh, I see so it's a 12v+/12v- dual supply. Any advice on the best method to get split rails out of a single trans using common parts? I noticed the original pedal uses a trans so I assume it can be done. Looked into a resistor divider but it appears this goes to heck once any load is connected so not sure how to properly go about this ...thanks!

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    3. Disregard my request, I found Bajaman's schematic on La Revolution and it spells out exactly how to build the supply using a 12v AC transformer.

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    4. again, if you look at the schematic in the link posted at the top you'll see how to setup a transformer and will have to make a layout for it. it's much easier to use a +12V DC power supply, and it will allow you to put the circuit in a 1590BB without the need for a bigger enclosure like the original one.

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    5. Ok, finally got the message, thanks for the heads up my friend.

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  3. It just amazes me how u can do so many layouts. I can't even layout a little vero lol. Thanks for all the work u do. Jack.

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    1. no prob man, and thanks. really it's not that big a deal for these since the front half is all the same, all i had to do was change values in the tonestack, or in the case of the ones that have bandaxall tone stack (orange, matamp, and ampeg) i just had to do some moving around components.

      i've got a few layouts i want to get done that are a much more complicated than these. those take a lot more time.

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  4. Hi, great work but AFAIK Marshall's tonestack is after a tube buffer while Fender(& Hiwatt) doesn't have a buffer before the tonestack, did you altered the circuit considering this?

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    1. There's no buffer in any of the layouts posted. In all the layouts the tonestack comes after the tube gain stage, particularly they all come off pin 1 of the tube.

      The original had a FET input and output buffer, but I have removed them.

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  5. Is there a way to make the charge pump run on 9VDC?

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    1. Yes, but the 12V isn't necessarily for the charge pump, it's actually for the 12AX7 heater. The reason the heater is wired directly to a 12V supply, and not to a 12V supply from a charge pump powered by 9V is that a charge pump would not have adequate current to run a 12AX7

      The heater wants to see that 12V to function properly.

      I have a Valvecaster (12AT7) build which I simply power with a 9V one spot (no charge pump) and it sounds great. You could always try powering it at 9V and see how that sounds, but it should work better at 12V

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    2. By the way, the bypass switching shown in these layouts is functionally identical to the normal switching shown in the offboard wiring, so no need to do anything differently with that

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  6. They could work as a preamp? Could be used with a power amp?

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  7. Slightly OT: how are you guys physically boxing up pedals with valves in? Any tips? Been getting some good sounds from a 12AU7 on the breadboard but no clue how to safely get it into an enclosure...

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    1. there's a bunch of different ways you can do it. take a look at the thread johnk started when he posted his layout for it.

      http://guitar-fx-layouts.42897.x6.nabble.com/BK-Butler-Bluetube-driver-td248.html#a1735

      you can also see how a zosotone, and Freppo did theirs. i'm planning on doing it similar to Freppo, but instead of just having the tube hanging out like that i ordered a few tube cages.

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    2. Thank you sir - very enlightening. I'm keen to have the tube inside the enclosure (I'm pretty clumsy) so I reckon I'll try zosotone's approach, that's darned clever.

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    3. Then pardon my ignorance, what happens if I power it up with a 9VDC to 12VDC charge pump? Or any charge pump for that matter.

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  8. I've done it like freppo but I used a socket with a removable shield (like on Fender amps).

    This is the easy way to do it, but if you were to step on the shield you'd probably destroy the socket and tube.

    For my next tube build, I am going to drill a slightly oversized hole that I will put a grommet on. Then I will mount the tube socket in the enclosure but recessed inside with standoffs. Then I will have about half of the tube sticking out of the big hole, held firmly by the grommet, with a little cage around the tube to make it road worthy

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  9. This is INSANELY COOL! Thanks Zach!

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  10. Very Awesome Zach.

    Thank you soooo much!!!

    Will

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  11. replacemente for LT1054? I can find it. i remember charge pump with 1044 i wasn't able to find it here :(

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    1. You can't use a 1044 with this. The maximum input voltage of the 1044 is 9.5V, this circuit needs a 12V supply.

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    2. Mouser has them (not cheap though).
      http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Texas-Instruments/LT1054IP/
      http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/lt1054.pdf

      Although. You could simply go with ICL7660S, but then i'd strongly suggest taking a 100R resistor and 12V zener to ground from the pins 1&8. 7660S will burn instantly if it gets more than 12V to its input.

      http://www.intersil.com/content/dam/Intersil/documents/icl7/icl7660s-a.pdf

      Those are widely available and cheap. And yes, you'll need the "S" (super) version. One without the "S" won't do. (Due to lower internal oscillation frequency will lead to audible whine with 7660 - "S" version has higher, inaudible oscillation frequency.)
      +m

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    3. Oh. Those 1054s are available from china through ebay as well. One should, however, take note that chinese sell a lot of out-of-specs / counterfeit stuff through ebay. Not saying that this particular seller is doing it, but the possibility exists.
      http://www.ebay.com/itm/170955151686
      +m

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  12. no offense, but I hope you never graduate! ;) Love these study break layout avalanches.. keep up the fantastic work Zach!

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    1. Haha. Thanks man. Well trust me, I'll still be posting layouts when I'm done. The one thing that will change is I'll have more build time for myself. The only builds I've had time for is customer builds.

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  13. Awesome! Thank You Zach.
    Any chance of adding a dumble style tone stack?

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    1. shouldn't be an issue. i'll look to find a dumble amp schematic to lift the tonestack from.

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